TRIP REPORT: SOUTH AFRICA, May 2007 Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills
Jun 15th, 2007, 06:13 AM
#21
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JP thanks for the link to Marius photos. I recognize many from the game drives when I was there. The lion cubs especially. (Hey, Marius, listen up, run those cub photos in Photoshop with "Levels" adjustment layer, it will lighten/brighten the image and stretch contrast. Make them pop.)
And thanks, glad you like my photos, most are from Leopard Hills thanks to working with Marius. Be sure and ask him about his bean bag leopard incident.
Yes did see Exeter vehicles. Have you been to Exeter before? I've heard nothing about it. Hard to say how long we spent at sightings, long enough I thought. But it is always hard to know whether to stay or move on. With the lion cubs I'd guess 15 minutes, but not sure.
regards - tom
And thanks, glad you like my photos, most are from Leopard Hills thanks to working with Marius. Be sure and ask him about his bean bag leopard incident.
Yes did see Exeter vehicles. Have you been to Exeter before? I've heard nothing about it. Hard to say how long we spent at sightings, long enough I thought. But it is always hard to know whether to stay or move on. With the lion cubs I'd guess 15 minutes, but not sure.
regards - tom
Jun 15th, 2007, 06:23 AM
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Anyone like to email me in private, sure. tdgraham at sbcglobal dott net. Put Africa in subject line. Email from unknown addresses get caught in my spam filter and I do a quick look for the legitimate ones. I will answer, if I don't, just means I missed it, try again.
regards - tom
regards - tom
Jun 15th, 2007, 07:09 AM
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Tom,
Haven't you ever heard of Exeter Private Lodge?! There are three lodges. Exeter Leadwood( only 4 suites). Exeter River lodge(8 suites) and Exeter Dulini lodge(6 suites). Exeter owns 2 of the 7 farms in the western sector of the Sabi Sands.
You should definitely try to visit it sometime! We are going there in July. Can't wait!!!
regards - jp
Haven't you ever heard of Exeter Private Lodge?! There are three lodges. Exeter Leadwood( only 4 suites). Exeter River lodge(8 suites) and Exeter Dulini lodge(6 suites). Exeter owns 2 of the 7 farms in the western sector of the Sabi Sands.
You should definitely try to visit it sometime! We are going there in July. Can't wait!!!
regards - jp
Jun 15th, 2007, 02:56 PM
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Tom, just back today from SA on SAA- will read your report when my eyes adjust to US time..But wanted to comment on SAA. If you are taller than 5ft. you will be miserable. The seats are shorter and narrower than most; but if you can get in economy nos. 36-46 there seems to be less people (they stash everyone in the way way back) and there is a possiblity to take over a 4-seat middle area to spread out. I am 5'7 and was in agony with nowhere to put my legs. My husband wanted to mutiny. Other than pain, the crew is nice, the food is plentiful and the entertainment on the video is plenty. Returning was a bbc show on the wild dogs - really good. As far as jp's take on Exeter I must agree; I was hesitant to go as I never read much on the forum about it; but if you want a Guide who will listen to you, attend to your time requirements and has a marvelous tracker - then go. We saw incredible sightings and the radio was NOT on. I sat next to Mac the guide because of neck probs; DH had the seat behind to himself for photos; and the last two rows were taken over by two other guests. Ony 4 rooms so very personal. We loved it. Mac is a birder extraordinare; he carries "Mac's bible" (a leather covered bird book to explain all the birds to interested guests) Colbert has been a tracker since playing as a child. They are quite a good team now that Andrew has moved over to River Lodge which I am sure is just as good. W e visited it and it too was lovely. I dont know why they are not more widely talked about on this forum. Small, personal, interesting, experienced - and at the same prices as most I read about on the forum. Maybe a secret we should keep. We saw wild dogs, hyena pups, leopards, lions, elies (one came to our pool as we were packing to leave) and then about 20 in a single line walked right through the property with their babies. Incredible. I dont think I'd even want to go anywhere else. It was heaven. My report will follow; I just need to unpack, get organized and remember how to spell after not sleeping for 20 hours on SAA. Be glad to answer any questions though! Cant be called Almosthere anymore, so maybe it will be - GoingBack.
Jun 15th, 2007, 04:09 PM
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Almosthere - happy to hear you liked Exeter. My searches on this forum have also turned up good reviews on Exeter. Exeter sounds like good alternative in Sabi Sands.
What other camps have you been to in Sabi Sands that you can compare Exeter to?
I see from one of their web site photos that the tracker sits on the left front fender. True for you there? I have problems with that (photography). Of the eight safari camps I have been to, only these last three had the tracker on the fender and I much prefer he be in back. See trip report
regards - tom
What other camps have you been to in Sabi Sands that you can compare Exeter to?
I see from one of their web site photos that the tracker sits on the left front fender. True for you there? I have problems with that (photography). Of the eight safari camps I have been to, only these last three had the tracker on the fender and I much prefer he be in back. See trip report
regards - tom
Jun 15th, 2007, 06:03 PM
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Enjoyed reading your report and loved your photos, all of them, but especially the cheetahs and the elephants.
We went to three lodges last September, all CCAfrica, and luckily, only had an awful couple on two drives at Londolozi. They represented a tour company and I thought our ranger handled them masterfully but it didn't suppress their stupid running comments.
We always had the tracker on the left front fender, so I was used to that. When on occasion the tracker sat in back, he didn't seem as effective because he couldn't readily communicate with the ranger with hand signals. Maybe they are not used to that set-up? How does it work, in your experience? Thanks,
CW
We went to three lodges last September, all CCAfrica, and luckily, only had an awful couple on two drives at Londolozi. They represented a tour company and I thought our ranger handled them masterfully but it didn't suppress their stupid running comments.
We always had the tracker on the left front fender, so I was used to that. When on occasion the tracker sat in back, he didn't seem as effective because he couldn't readily communicate with the ranger with hand signals. Maybe they are not used to that set-up? How does it work, in your experience? Thanks,
CW
Jun 15th, 2007, 06:20 PM
#30
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CW- I have been on game drives that have no tracker. And these seem to in general be just as good as those with trackers.
When I think of a tracker in back I think first of MalaMala. Do they use hand signals, no? They use a big bull horn that can be heard for miles around. Just kidding. The tracker would give a little very soft whistle and the ranger would look around to him. They then talked. Or just as often the ranger would turn around and ask the tracker a question. The Mala rangers use radio headsets so I have no clue as to what goes on with it. But you know, the tracker could also have a headset and communicate with the ranger over it.
I did ask at Madikwe why the tracker sat on the front fender and was told so that he could see the animal tracks on the road better. Could be, makes some sense. But I have a feeling it is also because it looks macho AND it frees up a row of seats in the vehicle.
BTW, one of Carolyn's most memorable game drives was when she decided at Mala to set back there with the tracker (leg room). We got mock charged three times by the same ele matriarch while driving away. Carolyn saw it up close and personal.
The odds are that occasionally you will have vehicle companions that are unbearable. But we've also had some that have been great to be with. (Just as long as the vehicle is not crowded. Nothing makes up for that).
regards - tom
When I think of a tracker in back I think first of MalaMala. Do they use hand signals, no? They use a big bull horn that can be heard for miles around. Just kidding. The tracker would give a little very soft whistle and the ranger would look around to him. They then talked. Or just as often the ranger would turn around and ask the tracker a question. The Mala rangers use radio headsets so I have no clue as to what goes on with it. But you know, the tracker could also have a headset and communicate with the ranger over it.
I did ask at Madikwe why the tracker sat on the front fender and was told so that he could see the animal tracks on the road better. Could be, makes some sense. But I have a feeling it is also because it looks macho AND it frees up a row of seats in the vehicle.
BTW, one of Carolyn's most memorable game drives was when she decided at Mala to set back there with the tracker (leg room). We got mock charged three times by the same ele matriarch while driving away. Carolyn saw it up close and personal.
The odds are that occasionally you will have vehicle companions that are unbearable. But we've also had some that have been great to be with. (Just as long as the vehicle is not crowded. Nothing makes up for that).
regards - tom
Jun 15th, 2007, 07:09 PM
#31
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Tom,
Laughed at the bull horn reference! that would have matched perfectly our obnoxious vehicle mates.
Only since my first safari, have I realized that my experience was not necessarily the norm--tracker/ranger. I never did notice any distraction from the radio, at least. They kept it off or turned so low, you couldn't hear it. Nor did they talk into it much. I guess we were lucky.
Carolyn had quite the experience in the last row. Hope she got photos.
I do quite like your suggestion of alumni vehicles. It was our first safari and I think all of our companions were newcomers as well. Though by our last camp, we were no longer the newcomers, though the others were. It's a good point to make before arriving at a camp. I guess private vehicle will be the only way around this.
i wonder how many safari goers are returnees? I'm sure it's much higher at some camps and in some countries.
Anyway, thanks for your report and your comments. Very useful.
CW
Laughed at the bull horn reference! that would have matched perfectly our obnoxious vehicle mates.
Only since my first safari, have I realized that my experience was not necessarily the norm--tracker/ranger. I never did notice any distraction from the radio, at least. They kept it off or turned so low, you couldn't hear it. Nor did they talk into it much. I guess we were lucky.
Carolyn had quite the experience in the last row. Hope she got photos.
I do quite like your suggestion of alumni vehicles. It was our first safari and I think all of our companions were newcomers as well. Though by our last camp, we were no longer the newcomers, though the others were. It's a good point to make before arriving at a camp. I guess private vehicle will be the only way around this.
i wonder how many safari goers are returnees? I'm sure it's much higher at some camps and in some countries.
Anyway, thanks for your report and your comments. Very useful.
CW
Jun 15th, 2007, 07:35 PM
#32
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Ha Ha Bullhorn. Alumni vehicles is a great idea. I could gladly come up with an extra $75 a day or so. But to add another $400-$500 per day for a private vehicle for just me is not practical.
Maybe some Fodorites with similar interests can go over together and all share a vehicle at some camps. I know there have been some Team Fodor excursions that have gone well.
Glad to know you did see some brown hyenas since that is something Madikwe is known for. Did you get any photos, even if they were not up to your usual high standards?
Did I read in your report that there were elephants attacking helicopters?! Do you have the details on that?
15 nights for $6400 is a really good deal.
Maybe some Fodorites with similar interests can go over together and all share a vehicle at some camps. I know there have been some Team Fodor excursions that have gone well.
Glad to know you did see some brown hyenas since that is something Madikwe is known for. Did you get any photos, even if they were not up to your usual high standards?
Did I read in your report that there were elephants attacking helicopters?! Do you have the details on that?
15 nights for $6400 is a really good deal.
Jun 15th, 2007, 08:26 PM
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JP, I am not a rugby supporter, but a huge fan of rugby league. I am returning to your beautiful country in mid december, which is so far away. I would love to be visiting the wild dog den at mm right now though. It would be fantastic to see the pups out and about. I can't wait to see how many were born!
Kind regards,
Kaye
Kind regards,
Kaye
Jun 15th, 2007, 09:02 PM
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That is an awesome deal Tom. Hmmmm 
I could handle some honeymooners for that price
Thanks for all the details. You did a good for someone that doesn't like to write trip reports.
You've really got the lighting down pat in your photos. I liked them all but especially the lions cubs (as usual) and the ellie on the mound, ok and the walking leopard at LH.
"Flat cats" did you make that up or have I just never heard that before? What do they calling sleeping dogs?
That was cool you hooked up with a ranger that was into photography. Arn't there a few of them at Mala Mala? I could just imagine Marius crying out for his bean bag, had a chuckle out loud on that. I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE VIDEO OF THE LEOPARDS!!! Will you post here?
You had me going with the "almost kill on your room verandah". He probably had a headache the rest of the day!
And after this great trip you have another in Sept. I am
with envy!
I could handle some honeymooners for that price
Thanks for all the details. You did a good for someone that doesn't like to write trip reports.
You've really got the lighting down pat in your photos. I liked them all but especially the lions cubs (as usual) and the ellie on the mound, ok and the walking leopard at LH.
"Flat cats" did you make that up or have I just never heard that before? What do they calling sleeping dogs?
That was cool you hooked up with a ranger that was into photography. Arn't there a few of them at Mala Mala? I could just imagine Marius crying out for his bean bag, had a chuckle out loud on that. I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE VIDEO OF THE LEOPARDS!!! Will you post here?
You had me going with the "almost kill on your room verandah". He probably had a headache the rest of the day!
And after this great trip you have another in Sept. I am
with envy!
Jun 15th, 2007, 09:41 PM
#35
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Ok, everything I said about Madikwe elephants damaging vehicles and helicopter I heard from another guest. NOT from Madikwe staff.
I've googled searched and found this:
http://tinyurl.com/2bh7ev
It is regarding a ranger being killed by elephants in September (?) 2006 at Madikwe.
And this one about an incident in 2003 - http://tinyurl.com/yr5cdo
I found another one about another incident in 2003. It is buried and hard to find in the journal so here is a quote "Sam Nkomo, a game ranger at Madikwe game park, received the Mendi Decoration for Bravery (silver) for rescuing a tourist being charged by seven elephants. He held them at bay with a stick after an elephant had impaled the game-viewing vehicle with his tusks".
So, these are what I know for sure (if you can believe what you read on the internet). The helicopter incident I have not found but the guest I heard it from I would believe. And like I said in my report, the rangers did not want to approach elephants.
regards - tom
I've googled searched and found this:
http://tinyurl.com/2bh7ev
It is regarding a ranger being killed by elephants in September (?) 2006 at Madikwe.
And this one about an incident in 2003 - http://tinyurl.com/yr5cdo
I found another one about another incident in 2003. It is buried and hard to find in the journal so here is a quote "Sam Nkomo, a game ranger at Madikwe game park, received the Mendi Decoration for Bravery (silver) for rescuing a tourist being charged by seven elephants. He held them at bay with a stick after an elephant had impaled the game-viewing vehicle with his tusks".
So, these are what I know for sure (if you can believe what you read on the internet). The helicopter incident I have not found but the guest I heard it from I would believe. And like I said in my report, the rangers did not want to approach elephants.
regards - tom
Jun 15th, 2007, 10:02 PM
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Carla - I probably should not have said that price so exactly because I believe it was a one-time special deal. I just hit them up at the right time. But you can work it out for yourself, these camps publish (web) their rates. And the flights are published.
Writing whatever, trips reports included are a chore for me. But I figure I owe it to the good people here on this forum to contribute what I can. And once I start writing I just don't know where or when to stop. Part of the chore it becomes for me. Then of course, no to mention grammar and spelling
Photo lighting. I have I mentioned that before? I'm a sucker for "back lighting", I'll take a photo of anything that is back lit.
"Flat cats", did not make it up, was the first time I heard it, at Kings Camp. Sleeping dogs - haven't heard similar for that, I'm sure you could come up with something.
Marius at Leopard Hills was a great ranger. Yes, some at Mala have also been really keen on photography. When I do my DVD with video clips Marius begging for his bean bag will certainly be on it. I'll send yo a copy. But don't "hold your breath" give me a couple of months. I don't know how, haven't gotten into, posting videos on the internet. Another learning opportunity Do you know how????
Besides that poor little bird in mention, the next day one of those common starlings did the same thing but flew off immediately. The first little fellow sat there for so long I was concerned he would never move and I contemplated a mercy killing. But glad I waited. The room window are huge, floor to ceiling and crystal clear. They should put a marking on them to show the birds.
regards - tom
Writing whatever, trips reports included are a chore for me. But I figure I owe it to the good people here on this forum to contribute what I can. And once I start writing I just don't know where or when to stop. Part of the chore it becomes for me. Then of course, no to mention grammar and spelling
Photo lighting. I have I mentioned that before? I'm a sucker for "back lighting", I'll take a photo of anything that is back lit.
"Flat cats", did not make it up, was the first time I heard it, at Kings Camp. Sleeping dogs - haven't heard similar for that, I'm sure you could come up with something.
Marius at Leopard Hills was a great ranger. Yes, some at Mala have also been really keen on photography. When I do my DVD with video clips Marius begging for his bean bag will certainly be on it. I'll send yo a copy. But don't "hold your breath" give me a couple of months. I don't know how, haven't gotten into, posting videos on the internet. Another learning opportunity
Do you know how????Besides that poor little bird in mention, the next day one of those common starlings did the same thing but flew off immediately. The first little fellow sat there for so long I was concerned he would never move and I contemplated a mercy killing. But glad I waited. The room window are huge, floor to ceiling and crystal clear. They should put a marking on them to show the birds.
regards - tom
Jun 15th, 2007, 11:31 PM
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Hi Tom
Great to read your trip report. You've got some great images there too.
My wife and I spent 5 nights at L.Hills on our Honeymoon!! (There's that word again) ;-) back in Sept '04. Our guide was also Marius and I echo your sentiments on this great guy. We too also spent a great time sharing photographic issues/comments whilst in the vehicle(probably boring others in there as well)I agree also that there are too many pax in most of the vehicles in the SSGR.
Which is why my wife and I are off to Zambia(SLNP) in Sept for 16 nights, where max capacity for where we are going is only 6 ;-)
BTW, Tom, try a Better Beamer (with a SB600 or 800) on your D200 next safari for those extra reach at night & for day catchlight shots.
Also do the Rogers still have their little Staffie at L.Hills?
Cheers
Marc
Great to read your trip report. You've got some great images there too.
My wife and I spent 5 nights at L.Hills on our Honeymoon!! (There's that word again) ;-) back in Sept '04. Our guide was also Marius and I echo your sentiments on this great guy. We too also spent a great time sharing photographic issues/comments whilst in the vehicle(probably boring others in there as well)I agree also that there are too many pax in most of the vehicles in the SSGR.
Which is why my wife and I are off to Zambia(SLNP) in Sept for 16 nights, where max capacity for where we are going is only 6 ;-)
BTW, Tom, try a Better Beamer (with a SB600 or 800) on your D200 next safari for those extra reach at night & for day catchlight shots.
Also do the Rogers still have their little Staffie at L.Hills?
Cheers
Marc
Jun 16th, 2007, 12:57 AM
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Almosthere,
I take it you enjoyed Exeter very much! How long did you stay there? We are going to Exeter in July. Staying at Leadwood for 1 night and then off to Dulini for 1 night. We booked rather late, so we could not get two consecutive nights at one lodge. Do you think we will see enough wildlife etc. in 2 nights(4 game drives)?
Mac will also probably be our ranger at Leadwood. By reading your comments about him, I'm looking forward to meeting him.
Regards - JP
I take it you enjoyed Exeter very much! How long did you stay there? We are going to Exeter in July. Staying at Leadwood for 1 night and then off to Dulini for 1 night. We booked rather late, so we could not get two consecutive nights at one lodge. Do you think we will see enough wildlife etc. in 2 nights(4 game drives)?
Mac will also probably be our ranger at Leadwood. By reading your comments about him, I'm looking forward to meeting him.
Regards - JP
Jun 16th, 2007, 03:45 AM
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JP, Yes we had a remarkable time at Leadwood. Mac is excellent and as it was our very first trip ever he wanted to make sure we went home exhilerated! We saw so much on each drive so I think you will be happy with four. While we were there some people did not show up so if you wait, you may get to add a night. I heard from them that Dulini was also nice (did not see it, but did see River Lodge which had great rooms with views of the river)..Ask for Room One at Leadwood. It will take your breath away. We had elies up on our deck and walking over the pool edge. Unbelievable. Mac is very sensitive to your needs and wants and Colebert (once you get him warmed up to you - ask about his life, etc. and he will chat up with you)is a great tracker. Mac won't give up if you have a particular animal you want to see. He is into birding (ask to see his "bible) and knows more than I could ever know about those beautiful winged creatures. I was not into birds so much - we really dont have that many different species in our city) but after being in Africa I have a new appreciation. That is one of many changes I brought home from this trip. It was so spiritual and life altering for us city people in the states.
So Sorry Tom for interfering in your post! I read it last night and enjoyed your trip vicariously. Hopefully will get mine done once my labby is well.
So JP if you want more info (or anyone for that matter on our Exeter adventure), please email me at fancy dot williams at gmail dot com
So Sorry Tom for interfering in your post! I read it last night and enjoyed your trip vicariously. Hopefully will get mine done once my labby is well.
So JP if you want more info (or anyone for that matter on our Exeter adventure), please email me at fancy dot williams at gmail dot com
