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Trip Report- South Africa: Kruger, Kings Camp, Kirkman's Kamp, Sep 2009

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Trip Report- South Africa: Kruger, Kings Camp, Kirkman's Kamp, Sep 2009

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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #21  
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Thanks matt and moremiles-
Lucky you, back to MM in Jan. I'd like to go back to MM, would be my fourth time there. I see they did not raise their 2010 rates. With the dollar going down MM may soon be the same rate as Kings Camp and Kirkman's!!! Now, that's a good deal!

SV - that safari game drive schedule is very typical in SA private camps. Unlike say the Mara or Moremi where you can't be in the reserve after sundown, on private property you can be out whenever. But again, I don't care for driving around in the dark, I'd trade an hour of that for 15 minutes of sunlight!!! As for having lunch, agree, I didn't need it but lunch was always SO GOOD that I just could not skip it. With Morne we always stopped for morning tea, actually, hot chocolate and Amarula . Kings Camp has many more nice thoughtful touches. Starting with manager Warren coming around every morning at breakfast to say hello, asking how you are doing.

Kirkmans - Yeah I did have on one game drive 7 guests (myself included). That is acceptable, barely, for me. By full capacity I was thinking of is- 1 plus 3 plus 3 plus 2 (with tracker 3), total 9. That 3 is in the three seats behind the guide. Before one drive I misunderstood about new arrivals and thought they were going to join us. I told Grant I would not sit three across. He replied no problem, they were with another guide.

I was in room 3 which I think is the "old" style. I heard that they have remodeled -two- rooms but not sure if that means the rest are scheduled or not.

And happy to have questions, I put up my report hoping that Fodorites will find it informative and have questions about what I may have left out. Thanks.

regards - tom
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 04:16 PM
  #22  
 
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Another tremendously successful trip & pictures. Loved the saddle billed storks and buffalo in the water. You had lots of good waterhole action. Nice job on the tree squirrel. You should show your camp shots to the managers. They might want to buy them.
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 04:32 PM
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Tom: I actually looked while I was at work today to see if you had posted your trip report. All was well until I tried to look at your photos...big brother blocked the page so I had to wait until I got home! Great report, I enjoy the statistics. Some really nice photos, maybe I don't need to rent that 200-400 to use the teleconverter on, I just need to work on the "me" aspect of taking photos. I love the drinking lion and the little bee-eater. The lone wild dog standing with the others laying down has great light to show off the many colors in their coats. Good work. I'd be up for May 2011, in my 5 trips to Africa, all have been between November and February (work schedule = no vacation July-early October). I bit the bullet and paid the $$$ to have a private vehicle in Jan at Mombo, we'll see, it sure is painful to think about!
Thanks again.
Pat
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 04:50 PM
  #24  
 
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Thanks for the trip report and photos which were very nice. You are right, the bee eater is a great shot.

One question, never having been to SS, why don't you transfer by safari vehicle from one camp/concession to another instead of flying? Wouldn't that be one long safari drive or aren't vehicles allowed through the other concessions, even as a transfer?
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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Tom,
Your pictures are soooo impressive. Excellent editing, and I know how painful that can be if you're a good photographer.

I don't think I've ever seen as beaiutiful a leopard as that male in Kruger. And that tusker. My what big teeth you have! Love the bee eater and the dogs spread out in front of the jeep. But the home page shot of the elephants at dusk is my favorite.

I used to be an avid photograher but gave it up years ago, except for a few snaps here and there. I just love staring at the animals and scenery and not having to work at focusing and composition and all that. Thank goodness the digitals now don't make as much nopise as when people used motor drives. Annoying in the middle of peaceful nature!

Leslie
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 05:42 PM
  #26  
 
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Wonderful trip report Tom. You bring your trip to life in your descriptions. I hope to get together with you at some point so we can talk more.

Mike
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Lynn - thanks, the little tree squirrel was really funny, you should see the video of him making all kinds of racket!!! Like he could scare anything away!! Those shots of the King Camp room are actually from KC promo, I say that on the photo captions.

Pat - I think 400mm (your 80-400) is long enough for SA, for Bots I'm not sure. Hey, CHUCK safarichuck1, you frequent Mombo, what is your favorite lens for there? Also, sorry if I repeat myself but you really need to crop almost any image in "post processing" hope you can do that. Both the lion drinking and little bee-eater have obviously been cropped from the camera's 2x3 format. The little bee-eater was cropped -a lot-. What you see is around 1/4 of the total shot. Makes that 300m lens look like a 600mm lens. A private vehicle like you'll have at Mombo is ideal for photos. May 2011, ok, lets do it . A year from now, depending on how the world has turned in the meantime, let's see if we can get some interest in doing a SA safari, May 2011.

twaffle - thanks. Within SS you can indeed transfer easily by vehicle between camps. My situation was that Kings Camp is in the Timbavati reserve and it and SS are connected only by South Africa highways. Thus you have to exit Timbavati to Hoedspruit, take a SA highway down to SS gate, and drive to camp deep in SS. Would take 4 hours I would guess. Which is not all that bad if you have a car with you. Otherwise you will pay for a shuttle either by driving or flying. My air shuttle cost $160 per person, but I had to pay for minimum of two passengers.

Leslie - thanks, but I really did not get that many super photos considering all the time I spent in a game drive vehicle. Maybe two good leopard and two good lion photos . Big cats were just not cooperating all those days. What's that work out too, $2,000 each . I used to do a lot of photography with 35mm slides. And it so frustrated me that I was stuck with the photo as taken. The digital age with all the post processing capability rekindled my interest. As for it being quieter, yes, but some guests on game drive can not be quiet for more than 30 seconds!!!

One other photo trivia item, FWIW. I purposely watch for "serious" camera kit at both camps. At Kings Camp only my guide came close with his 100-400 Canon lens. No other guest had such at Kings Camp. At Kirkmans there were two "serious" kits (both Canon).

regards - tom
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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It is interesting what you note about "serious kits". Somehow I always envisioned that nearly everyone on safari would have serious photography equipment. Clearly, I am quite wrong! But I was also surprised on our Galapagos trip at how few even had binoculars (!!) As a fairly serious photographer I am a little concerned about the crowding in the safari vehicles, but there's no way we can afford a private one so we'll just have to deal with it. We'll be at Elephant Plains and Nkorho, I am hoping they don't crowd too much. What tends to be the maximum number of passengers in one of these vehicles?

And this statement left me cringing >>some guests on game drive can not be quiet for more than 30 seconds<< As a birder I am used to quiet!

Well, at least we'll be on our own in Kruger for five days before going to the Sabi Sand lodges. I'm getting a bit apprehensive about these game drives! Still, I'll be happy if I get a few shots as lovely as your leopard and wild dogs And yes that Bee Eater shot is fabulous!
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #29  
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jczinn - Of course on past safaris I've always noticed camera gear. This time I thought I'd keep a note of it. And this time was typical I'd say. Maybe it's the camps I frequent?!?!?

I have no experience at Elephant Plains nor Nkorho. If you do find a crowded vehicle, take the seat next to the guide. Yes, it is low, but to me that is the better perspective, not looking down on the animals back. Sometimes I take that seat even if others available. But the guide can be in the way if the view is on that side. Of course if it's a leopard in a tree, then higher up could be better. Which all means - you hardly ever can plan much about what you will see on a game drive, the animal, the view, the light. Maybe that's why I and many people become addicted to them . Yep, chatty guest can be irritating, especially when you are shooting video!!!!

And Kruger is fun, totally different experience than a private camp. And in SS I expect you to get as good as and more good shots than I did!!!

regards - tom
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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Tom: I assumed that the lion was cropped from the other photo, and that unless the bee-eater was the camp pet, he was probably cropped as well. Do you use a tri or mono pod or a beanbag? I have pretty much switched to beanbags because I seem to get all tangled up trying to use a pod of any sort in the vehicles. Yes, I will be able to crop photos and hopefully will get a shot or two worth cropping. Only two months to wait!
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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scruffypuma -the closer of the lion drinking is a different photo from the three lions. The lone lion drinking I shot using 70-300mm lens. An instant later Carolyn made the other shot using her Canon S3. If you open the "exif" data below photo you will see camera model used (also f-stop, shutter speed, ISO and other good poop). The lone lion drinking is still cropped from original, 300mm was not quite enough to be that close.

Tri, mono, bean - I don't use any. I'm mostly too lazy, and some of my shots suffer from it!!! I try to keep my shutter faster than 1/500 and fire off about three quickly. If my lens were bigger than the Nikon 70-300, I'd -have- to use some kind of support, simply could not hold a 200-400mm alone for more than 10 seconds (weighs 7 lbs). Use the bean bag, works good for a lot of people. Two months huh, that's great, you can count the weeks on two hands!!!!

regards - tom
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Tom,
RE: your question about what my favorite lens for Mombo? I find the ability to get really up close in Botswana allows me to shoot with a Canon 300mm/2.8 Supertele and pretty much fill the frame (cats, dogs and other large game). The 300mm on a 1.6 crop digital SLR equal 480mm in conventional 35mm terms. Most people find the 300mm/2.8 far to heavy to shoot hand held and so some sort of mechanical stabilization is necessary. This lens is about twice the size of a 300mm/4 but the image quality is unbeatable. I keep a 70-200mm/2.8 on another full frame body (no crop factor) and in reviewing my images from my most recent trip in May-June, I discovered that the shorter zoom lens yielded 75% of my images. My kit for East Africa includes some longer glass as you can never get as close as in Botswana. I'm an opportunistic bird photographer and while I never pass up a good shot, I haven't designed my kit around bird photography. As a point of information, I have found that the Canon 300mm/2.8 will take a 1.4X teleconverter without significant effect on quality. On a 1.6 crop Canon body, the final focal length in 35mm equivalence, equal 672mm (300 x 1.6 x 1.4 = 672mm). In fact, I seldom use a teleconverter in Botswana as it ends up being way too much lens. A couple of years ago, I asked Andy Biggs for his thoughts on lenses for Botswana and South Africa and his suggestions were right on. Andy said I would find the 70-200/2.8 to be the most used and that is just what I have discovered. I either sit next to the driver or in the first row in back of the driver. I try and keep good communication with my guide about what kind of shot I'm after and work to develop the right chemistry between us so that the driver can plan the shot setup on the approach to the sighting. I don't go after the tight shots much anymore as I like to place the subject in some biological context, either using the background or showing some interspecies interaction. O.K. sorry for the long winded reply, guess I'm getting excited about our upcoming last minute safari next month. Tom, your trip report got those jucies flowing .
Regards-Chuck
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Old Oct 15th, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #33  
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Hey Pat the sruffypuma - surely do hope you see this from Chuck!!! This guy has been there, done that, and has the pictures to prove it . Many thanks Chuck, not long winded, good info, good explanation. My vehicle seating preference same as yours. I also don't mind setting next to the driver/guide especially if vehicle is somewhat full. And agree about the tight shots also. Better stop before I get "long winded" (again). Wish I had a last minute safari coming up!!!!

regards - tom
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 04:24 AM
  #34  
 
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Thanks for the response, great tip about sitting next to the driver. Or right behind...I am hoping that they don't squish three across, though...If I can share one bench with my spouse that would work ok because he knows if I tell him to get out of the way for a shot, he'd better And I would agree that a lower angle makes for more intimate shots--although, as you note, for leopards in a tree maybe not! And also for birds in trees! I am a big bird shooter but expecting to do more bird shooting in camps and in Kruger, not so much in Sabi Sand on the drives. Also after reading these replies I am happy I invested in the 70-200 2.8, I have a feeling I will be using it quite a lot. We leave in under a month!!! Starting to pre-pack my gear to see how it all fits, and there's a lot of it.
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 06:53 AM
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Hi Tom - nice report! And it sounds like another great trip. I read your comment about the $2k images and I know what you mean. Although the trip itself is wonderful, the photography not so great. My trip to Bots in 2007 was like that compared to Bots in 2005. One of these days (years!) I'm going to have to try Krueger.

The lion images are excellent. Leopards also. That male leopard is huge. I like the "Leopard with kill and spectators". Cool shot. I'm glad hyenas can't climb trees Love the buffs in water (and the butts). The leopard on the kill shot is good, too. Nice, sharp bee-eater. They are so pretty. Love the ground hornbill. I think they are my favorite birds and I love how the family stays together. They are hard to get good images of.

My favorite is the home page elephants in the water. That one is great.

Where do you want to go next time?
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #36  
 
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Tom
THX for responding to my questions.

jczinn
EP and being a keen wildlife photographer can result in some frustration as EP puts up to 9 respectively 10 people in the car! 3 people in a row if they are full or a spare car isn't available because of private booking.
In the earlier days one could book the middle seat and pay roughly 300ZAR per drive. Now one has to "buy" all other unoccupied seats which sums up considerably.
Depending on the time you stay there you might be lucky if the camp is not fully booked. But EP is extremely popular and rarely are rondavels available particularly during festive season up until mid Jan, Easter, July-Aug European holidays.
Maybe you ask your TA to check what their present policy is on seat sale or sole us of vehicle and maybe depending on the volume your TA has at EP he can be influential regarding seating.
Just talk to him to get also EP aware you are a keen photographer. But a good TA will anyway send EP a briefing before you arrive.

On Nkorho I cannot comment.

Happy travels!

SV
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 10:02 AM
  #37  
 
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JCZINN

Don't worry about it too much, from our long experience most fellow guests have been well behaved - the worst were at Mombo, but that camp as I've said before, will be great when the guests realize they are on safari.

Now we are private vehicles all the way, usually because we travel with another couple and go to the same camp at least once a year. That kind of loyalty gets us private vehicles at no extra charge. And I really dont have a problem going to the same location over and over again - every day is different in the bush.

Make sure you're up on your SA birds. My Sabie Sand list is around 236, but in Kruger you probably have the opportunity to pick up some species you wont find in SSGR.

I recommend the Roberts CD for both PC and PDA for species and locations and calls. My preference on field guide is SASOL, having used newman for years I made the switch on the last trip. It's much better for raptors in particular.
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #38  
 
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Yikes SV, 10 in a vehicle? That would be awful. I will write EP and see what they say. I don't think we can afford the private vehicle there (according to their website, ZAR 3000.) But I could find out about the middle seat...However I did email Nkorho and they told me maximum should be 7 in a vehicle, or we could get a private one for ZAR 2000. We are considering it for one day, at least.

napamatt, we've got the SASOL book and also the Roberts Kruger guide, I think we are set, and I've been studying up! We will be traveling with a birding guide so we are hoping to get up to 300+ species for the trip (two weeks also including some highveld areas.) Can't wait!!
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 11:53 AM
  #39  
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sundowner - thanks, glad you like it. My best views of lion cub and leopard were on our very first safari in 2005. Wish I could duplicate that one again, I'd take it exactly as it was!!! In fact that home page shot you mentioned is from that safari, Botswana. Next safari? I'm open, wouldn't mind something totally new. You thinking of another open invitation? If not, likely SA again in May of 2011 - if I can wait that long!!!

jczinn- couple more thoughts about vehicles. Communicate via email with the camp managers telling them you are keen on photography. This worked for me this last safari. Also tell them you are keen birders and they my try to put "twitcher" guests together. In fact one member here said that when she(?) told the other vehicle guests she was a "birder" they all got out!!! Guests in camp for two days and insisting on the big 5 sometimes are not very patient of viewing a "bird on a stick" with binoculars . I'm not trying to get you concerned, I've never had a big problem with it in over 80 days in safari camps.

regards - tom
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Old Oct 16th, 2009 | 12:38 PM
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jczinn
You cannot loose by writing them an email! They might give you info on booking situation during your stay. Maybe you can talk them into selling you the middle seat.

I keep my fingers crossed for you as EP is the best value for money you can find in Sabi Sands. An similar one would be Arathusa. But there again - if conditions (yield) requests: LOADED vehicle.

Good luck!

SV
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