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Trip Report: Mombo, Vumbura, Royal Livingstone, Singita

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Trip Report: Mombo, Vumbura, Royal Livingstone, Singita

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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 07:42 AM
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Trip Report: Mombo, Vumbura, Royal Livingstone, Singita

Sorry it's taken me so long to post this brief trip report. We've were gone three weeks and it's taken me that long to get my life back to normal.

Trip details: My husband, 10 year old son, and I joined my parents and their friends on a safari in September. In total, we were a group of 17. This allowed us the ability to book private chartered flights throughout the trip -- a real benefit because we flew directly to each lodge (even between Livingstone and Singita -- no stop in Jo'burg). My husband and I are in our late 30's, most of the other members of our group were aged 55 to 65.

We traveled on British Air through London to Jo'burg. This being my third safari, I knew how long a flight it was to South Africa and we wisely spent a day in London as a break in the travel. We stayed at the Mandarin Oriental and had a great time showing my son the highlights of this beautiful city.

After arriving in Johannesburg, we spent the night at the Airport Intercontinental. It was a great hotel -- good food and nice rooms. I highly recommend it.

Mombo:
The next morning we flew to Maun and then took our Sefofane charter to Mombo. What a fantastic lodge. Great rooms (loved the outdoor shower), nice meals. We truly enjoyed the Mombo Choir performance in the Boma -- amazing singing and dancing. The staff LOVED having my son at the camp. He felt like a celebrity because everyone kept coming up to him to say hi or to bring him a treat. Upon arrival, they asked me if he had any favorite foods or drinks (he's pretty easy with steak and chicken) and they made sure something was available for him at every meal. Game drives were hit or miss -- supposedly a rarity at Mombo. The first drive was fantasic -- we saw lion steal a cheetah kill, tracked the cheetah and her 3 cubs, and saw hyena, elephants, giraffe, and more. From then on, the game sightings became less frequent. We were at Mombo two nights and saw a lot of big game including leopard, lion, cheetah, rhino, elephant, hyena, buffalo -- it's just that we would drive two hours without seeing anything at a time. Kind of strange.

Vumbura Plains:
We took a Sefofane charter to Vumbura where we spent three nights. Lovely camp. The rooms are HUGE and very comfortable. We stayed in the family unit which had an extra bedroom on the other side of the outdoor deck. Dining was quite an event -- think meals with several courses (with sorbet in between). Game wasn't as plentiful as I had hoped. This is due to Vumbura's large property -- almost the size of the entire Sabi Sands. Game is there, you just have to drive a lot to see it. We saw lion, elephant, sable, and best of all wild dog. Unfortunately, lions killed one of the few pups while we were there. It doesn't look good for this pack of dogs. Still, Vumbura was a fantastic lodge because it has so many optional activities : mokoro rides, power boat game drives, fishing, bush walks. We never had time to be bored. Combining Vumbura with Mombo works well because you don't get into the routine of only going on game drives. The highlight of the trip is when I had a run in with a pride of lions. Vumbura has elevated walkways just like Mombo, except not as high off the ground in a few areas. This became a problem when I went to the bathroom off the lobby our last night before dinner. It's about a 50 foot walk to the bathroom from the lobby on one of these walk ways. The staff had told us that it was safe to go to the bathroom as long as you took your flashlight and scanned for elephants and hippos (the most common visitors to the lodge). I followed directions and kept my eyes out for these big creatures on my walk to the bathroom. I saw no signs of any life out there and made my way to the bathroom. Now this bathroom is unusual because it has only three sides -- the fourth wall is open looking out on to the delta with just a simple railing. The entire structure and walkway is no more than 5 feet off the ground. As I began to "do my business", I heard a crunching on the ground directly behind the toilet. I thought it was an elephant at first, but realized the footsteps were too small to be an elephant. Thoughts of a leopard jumping over the railing quickly entered my mind, but I laughed it off as an over active imagination. The crunching stopped when I flushed the toilet. I quickly washed my hands and slowly slid back the pocket door to begin my walk back to the lodge. I carefully checked to see what was making the noise, but my light showed nothing. I continued scanning the area with my flashlight while walking back to the lodge. About 3/4 of the way there I froze. Only three or four feet in front of me on the ground was a young male lion. He had just stepped out from under the walkway. He froze as well. The eye contact was unreal. This lasted for about ten seconds. Then, the lion ran off. I knew I wasn't supposed to run or speak, so I took the biggest giant steps I could back to the main building. Our group was having cocktails, drinking and talking. I called out, "lion, lion". No one heard me except the manager of the lodge. He quickly grabbed his signigicanly more powerful flashlight and scanned the area. There was a pride a seven lions moving through the camp on their way to hunt. They were only about 10 feet from the building. I then realized that I had been surrounded by lions on my walk back to the lodge - my little flashlight was just to weak to see them. I've had quite a few dreams of lions stalking me since I've returned home!

The big mistake at Chobe:
Wilderness Safaris booked our stays at their camps, the Royal Livingstone, and were supposed to book us at Chobe Chilwero. For some unknown reason, they dropped the ball and never booked us at Chilwero. We found this out a year after we thought we made the booking. As a result, with only a few months before the trip, we had no accomodations at Chobe. Wilderness increased our stay at Vumbura from two to three nights and booked one night at Elephant Vally Lodge near Chobe as a replacement (in fairness to Wilderness, I understand that we were a large group and it was nearly impossible to find available lodging for us on such short notice). Unfortunately, there was a reason Elephant Valley had availability. Our hot water didn't work in our spider infested tent, my parent's toilet didn't work, and others had similar problems. Luckily, it was only one night and it made us appreciate our other luxury camps that much more. In regards to Chobe, it has changed greatly since I was last there 14 years ago. While the elephants are still there in large numbers (we saw a parade of 41 bull elephants crossing the road), the numbers of vehicles has surged. It was really crowed. We saw a poor leopard surrounded by 6 cars. Very sad. Plus, you can't go off road which makes visibility difficult. This was definitely our last visit to Chobe.

Royal Livingstone:
We spent three wonderful nights at Victoria Falls. The Royal Livingstone is a beautiful hotel. I greatly preferred it to the Victoria Falls Hotel where I had stayed on my last visit to the area. Meals are very good, but service is SLOW! It will take at least an hour and a half just to get lunch. Still, we enjoyed dining overlooking the river. My son celebrated his 10th birthday here and said it was his best yet. Wilderness Safaris organized all of our excursions and did a great job. We went on an elephant back safari, the African Queen river cruise, a walking tour of the falls, helicopter ride, and the Jet Extreme jet boating thrill ride. Do them all!

Singita:
We took a private charter flight through Federal Air from Livingstone to Singita for a three night stay. We did stop briefly in a small town to go through customs before arriving at Singita's air strip. Singita more than lived up to it's reputation. I've never been to an air stip that had a small lounge and bathroom. Nice touch after a long flight. We stayed at Boulders and loved it. They've recently redone all of the soft furnishings at Boulders and it is more traditional looking now than it appears in the old photos on their website -- lots of rich browns and leathers. The staff here also loved having my son in the group. He was thrilled when they brought him milk shakes and treats. The chalets were huge. Game drives were fantastic for half of our group -- the other half didn't see as much. Unlike at our other lodges, the rangers here didn't communicate via radio that often. Our three rovers went in opposite directions and never met up at a sighting. Luckily, my ranger was fantastic (Coleman) and those in my rover saw the most game. The first night we saw a mother leopard in a tree with a kill. Here cub was in a close neighboring tree and kept trying to get to it's mother. The only problem was the group of hyena sitting below both trees. The next morning we happened upon a male leopard carrying an impala head by the river bank. We pulled up directly next to him as he sat under a tree. We were no more than two feet from him when he hissed and mock charged our ranger. Don't believe those who say the animals don't see individual people in the vehicles -- they do. Overall, we saw a lot of game at Singita: lion, leopard, elephant, lots of rhino, and the typical antelope. Meals were outstanding and a night in the boma is not to be missed.

After spending a night in Jo'burg we returned home the next day. (FYI, I don't remember the name, but we had a fantastic lunch at the Greek restaurant in Nelson Mandela Square. Dinner at the Butcher Shop was good, but not great).

I realize that I didn't go into great detail about game sightings. If you are curious about whether we saw specific game or birds at a camp, please ask and I'll check my sightings log. Also, if you have any questions about the camps, rooms, etc., I'd be happy to help. It was a fantastic trip -- we can't wait to plan the next one!
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 08:08 AM
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travelwmn
Great report although I would like to rectify something. Ws do not own nor run the Royal Livingstone. I do understand perhaps why it was recommended in you case considering the group size. Chilwero and also Muchenje probably could not accomodate such a group. As one cannot book directly with WS it appears your agent has made the mistake.
Mark
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 08:14 AM
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OMG!

i couldn't read past LION! please make this a separate post so everyone can see- i gasped out loud! that is terrifying! glad you are all safe!

they really play up to kids at the lodges so that parents (customers) like you will return. great strategy- every stays happy.

thanks for sharing your harrowing tale (tail?)
kerikeri
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 08:44 AM
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Mark-
I realize that Wilderness Safaris (WS) does not own nor run the Royal Livingstone or Chilwero. However, I have a letter from Wilderness stating that it was completely their mistake and to please accept their apologies(re. not booking us at Chobe Chilwero). Our travel agent handed over the direct bookings to WS upon WS's suggestion. Also, Chilwero had the capacity to accomodate our group (15 bungalows) since we only needed 8 rooms (7 standard and 1 triple). They also had availabilty at the time our reservations were originally to have been made (I personally confirmed this with Chilwero). While we were initially upset with WS's mistake, we had no other option but to accept it and make the best of it. I should have added in my post that WS gave our group complimentary tickets for the African Queen river cruise in Victoria Falls as an apology for the mix up. I should also add that the rest of the arrangements made by WS were well planned and executed.
-Jenny
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 08:53 AM
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Mark-
As I reread your post, I realize you were probably referring to Elephant Valley Lodge as the property that Wilderness does not own. Good point! That camp has absolutley no affiliation with WS -- it was simply the only one with any availability at that late date.
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 08:56 AM
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Jenny,

The cruise on the "African Queen" is a standard activity when you stay at any of the Livingstone lodges/resorts. That's how it was when i stayed at Songwe village last year.

Hari
 
Old Oct 18th, 2006, 09:02 AM
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travelwmn
Ok, I accept your explanation as it does happen. I do understand.
Mark
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 09:07 AM
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Sorry,
I was refferingto the Royal Livingstone.
Mark
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 10:02 AM
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OK, the lion story will have to rank with one of the great all time ones!

I sure am glad you made it back OK.
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 10:23 AM
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travelwmn, enjoyed your report. We also stayed at the Royal Livingstone for three nights (nice, isn't it?) and enjoyed it. I recall leisurely meals but your group may have had it even slower since you were so large.

We did not book through WS (although we were staying at one of their camps) and it is very easy to book those day activities either through your travel agent/tour operator or sometimes even when you arrive. The booking agency is at the Zambezi Sun next door to the Royal Livingstone and they will shuttle you there if need be.

We also stayed at Singita Boulders (3 years ago) and one thing that impressed me was how they used the radios to coordinate great sightings. So I was surprised to hear that half of your group did not have good wildlife viewing. We saw the big five twice in the three nights we were there, including a lost rhino surrounded and harassed by elephants, leopard tracking a stag, cheetahs after a kill, and 2 month old baby lion cubs playing. Who are the managers there now at Singita? I've found management is everything.

Clem
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 11:11 AM
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Hi Jenny,
Great report and so glad your son will have such good memories - lucky boy. Your lion story also ranks up there as quite memorable. Good thing you didn't know about the others lions - good for you for not running and screaming like a ninny and really getting more lions interested - I would have.

Too bad though about not such great sighting though, any idea why?
Sherry
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 11:14 AM
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my excuse is that the edit feature is NOT working so well today - and neither am I.
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 05:20 PM
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Surrounded by lions and lived to tell the tale! Wow! That is the closest encounter with the most lions that I can recall. Just shows you can never be too careful. I cannot imagine how long that 10 seconds of eye contact felt. Could you even eat your dinner afterwards?
When you mentioned the young male and a pride of 7, I realized I knew those lions from an August visit.

Your account of Mombo also shows you can never count on wildlife to put on a show. Luckily you had quite a show on your big day of viewing. I'm pleased to read you saw cheetahs, which are not so prevalent at Mombo anymore.

Your comparison of the current and previous states of Chobe were enlightening.

Welcome home from your exciting family trip.
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Old Oct 18th, 2006, 05:29 PM
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travelwmn,

Wow...my heart is still racing from reading your encounter with lions. Seeing lions in the daylight is one thing but to be surrounded while only on a 5 foot tall walkway by a hunting pride of lions is something else!

I am now reliving the fear of lions that I had while at Mbuzi Mawe and I can totally appreciate what you must have been feeling and you have really communicated it well.

There is a book written by some wildlife guide or other (or perhaps it was just an article) that said that lions are mostly harmless to humans during the day (and are very afraid of humans) but once it becomes dark, watch out as they become very dangerous.

Thanks for your report and thanks for the lion nightmare that I will likely have tonight!
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Old Oct 19th, 2006, 06:59 AM
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I think the best way to get the best of Chobe in a private way, is to sign up for a nice mobile trip. Your mobile operator will find you a location far and away from the lodge crowds and will find areas far and away from the lodge game drive circuits.....

One of these years, i would do this......

Hari
 
Old Oct 19th, 2006, 11:18 AM
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Hi,
Your trip sounds wonderful, and regarding your encounter with the lion, i guess sometimes it is best to be kept in the dark!!

I am going back to Mombo this November, we were there last November 12 thru 15 and it was fantastic. We arrived the day after the first significant rainfall. The termites were out in force and many animals and birds taking advantage of the feast. The animal viewing was incredible, the best I have even been priviliged to see. (of course this Nov. will only be my third Safari) We are leaving Joburg on Nov 18th back on 23rd. I guess that we can never be sure what the weather or animal viewing will be like. 2 nights Vumbura and 3 in Mombo

On our last visit to Mombo my daughter and i were awaken by an elephant circling our tent, walking completely thru the raised walkway on one side but only knocking down the railing on his journey around the other side! We also spent some hours on two evenings watching a leopard and her two cubs in the den in a hollowed out tree. One night a tree next to the road leaving the camp fell over - not sure if it had any help but it made quite a noise, and it supplied the local elephant with someting else to have fun with for a while.

I am so excited about going back to Africa - I wish we had more time in camps, but i am greatful for what we can do.

I will also be going to Cape Town with a friend while my daughter is working. (our company does business in SA and my daughter has been spending two weeks every month in Africa) My friend and i are planning a drive down the Cape Penisula and maybe on to Hermanus, does anyone have any words of wisdom? Not sure if it would be wise to try in one day - also wondering if the whales will be gone by 14-18 November when we will be there.

This is my first posting and i am very happy to have found other people who are as thrilled with experiencing Africa as i am.
Looking forward to more
Susan
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Old Oct 19th, 2006, 09:07 PM
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Susan,

Welcome online......and hope you will have a trip report for us after your trip.

Have a good trip to Botswana.

Hari
 
Old Oct 20th, 2006, 04:32 AM
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Susan,

We were at Mombo the same time as you last year. I remember you and your daughter. My Husband surprised me with the renewal of our vows. How lucky of you to be going back to Mombo so soon. We too are booked to go back to Mombo but have to wait until June 2008! Enjoy your trip and tell your daughter hello from Dave and Holly. We should share pictures as we never did get to see those leopard cubs. I think we were the only ones in camp who didn't see them!

Holly
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Old Oct 20th, 2006, 07:26 AM
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Hi Holly,
How wonderful to hear from you! We will of course have to share photo's - i am not sure how to do that - i guess i could post my email address and we could get started that way??
Alyssa will be happy to hear that we are in contact. We enjoyed spending time with you and Dave - sharing your wonderful celebration...it was so very romantic! Look forward to more communication.
susan
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Old Oct 20th, 2006, 07:37 AM
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santharamhari
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Holly and Susan- What a small world!!! Glad you met. Quick suggestion. www.kodakgallery.com

It is a free to use website, where you load your pics and share....it is a commonly used mode to upload and share pics by fodorites.

Rgds
Hari
 


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