Trip Report -- Kenya 2018
Dec 15th, 2018, 11:43 AM
#21
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Sundowner, I actually think I found someone who loves the cats more than I do, Ping! I felt like I'd met my safari soul mate. He reads those cats like no one I've ever seen! And yes, the bottomless G&T before dinner...you pay the price the next morning, but who can say no?
Dec 16th, 2018, 09:32 PM
#23
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Wow. Thank you for posting Amy. Fantastic pictures. I am a vegetarian too so quite surprised at myself for wanting to see a kill as well. But it is all so natural there it makes it okay and so very thrilling and such a gift to be able to see. Kenya has certainly captured my heart as well. I bought my grand daughter an elephant to foster for her christmas present and we will visit in July. I am so excited and seeing your photos makes me more so. thanks again.
Dec 17th, 2018, 08:16 AM
#24
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Am enjoying the trip report and photos. I have only been to Kenya once but enjoyed every minute of it- except for maybe the day we were looking for rhinos and got stuck in the mud. Eventually 4 other vehicles were stuck too so it did turn out to be a bit of a party although a wasted day as far as animal watch- and we never found the rhinos.
One of my favorite days was watching an almost kill. We came across a couple of lions lying in the grass and were just sitting there watching them when a little wart hog came tripping through the grass and caught the attention of the lions. Soon the wart hog was being stalked and was about to become lunch when we heard a noise behind us. We turned around to see a herd of elephants coming across the road, the lions got spooked and took off and the wart hog scampered away and survived another day. So fun to watch.
One of my favorite days was watching an almost kill. We came across a couple of lions lying in the grass and were just sitting there watching them when a little wart hog came tripping through the grass and caught the attention of the lions. Soon the wart hog was being stalked and was about to become lunch when we heard a noise behind us. We turned around to see a herd of elephants coming across the road, the lions got spooked and took off and the wart hog scampered away and survived another day. So fun to watch.
Dec 18th, 2018, 05:42 AM
#26
Original Poster
Yes, live42day it is disturbing. From what I heard from folks I talked to there, the Chinese got the planning permission and moved very fast before any mobilization effort to oppose it could gain traction. If there is a bright side, however, it is twofold: first, there are only two trains a day (for now) and second, it follows the flight path of landing international flights. I was amazed how the planes appear to be literally following the train line into the airport. The thought being that animals were already used to noise along this particular path. And, I might add, it's elevated, which I didn't realize was the case at all; I hadn't read that in any of the media I saw leading up to it. So while an eyesore, there is no danger of wildlife in the park being hit by a train (although where it meets the ground again is a different story). I still don't support it, I think it's vile and an invasion of a national gem, but it's better than I expected. We passed under it each time coming and going from the Emakoko and all but one time there was a fair amount of plains game under the tracks, so they at least are not bothered by it. It's fairly flat with no cover around the pilings though, so no rhinos or big cats to be seen near it.
Sumbum, I've accumulated so many "almost" lion hunts that I figured I'd never see one actually happen successfully. That it did and relatively easily as it was just blew my mind. Interestingly, my guide at Emakoko posted last week video of yet another hunt that happened exactly the same way, he pulled up and the lioness pounced and killed. He thinks it might have been one from the same pride I saw, so maybe this is their MO!
And the terrain can be so muddy and squishy that I'm actually surprised getting stuck isn't more common.
Sumbum, I've accumulated so many "almost" lion hunts that I figured I'd never see one actually happen successfully. That it did and relatively easily as it was just blew my mind. Interestingly, my guide at Emakoko posted last week video of yet another hunt that happened exactly the same way, he pulled up and the lioness pounced and killed. He thinks it might have been one from the same pride I saw, so maybe this is their MO!
And the terrain can be so muddy and squishy that I'm actually surprised getting stuck isn't more common.
Dec 19th, 2018, 08:24 AM
#27
Original Poster
Finishing up the safari with 4 days at Offbeat Mara
I arrived at Offbeat and was welcomed like I'd just been there. It was only Feb of 2017 but it felt like yesterday. There were the obvious changes to the common area (described above) and a new manager, but the rest was all the same. No real settling in to do, just a wait for lunch and the afternoon game drive. I was very wistful as Ping dropped me off and left. It was a very successful game drive from when we dropped off my vehicle companions at the airstrip to when we got to Offbeat Mara; we had that male leopard all to ourselves. Ping and I talked and I said that the brother/sister couple that had spent 3 days with us on their very first safari had no idea just how exceptional it was. It was jam-packed with sightings that people may never see. Ping agreed. I've kept in touch with them since I returned and I told them that they had an incredible safari. They replied "We knew that as it happened, we could feel it through you, your excitement was palpable!" After Ping left me at Offbeat, I really wondered how the three days with him could possibly be beat. Or could they?
Anyway, as I was waiting for lunch, I started chatting with some of the guests trickling in. One older British gentleman introduced himself and said I'd be sharing David and Kappen with him for three days until he left. It turns out it was Richard, a photographer I follow and have corresponded with on Facebook! Small world! I knew he visited Offbeat twice a year and always requested David and Kappen as his guide and spotter. I had left for Kenya before he announced he was going to be there, so this was a surprise to me. I was thrilled. I love his photography and was honored to finally meet him. And I knew he liked the up early/stay out late schedule that I do, as well as the cats, so it was already a great match up.
I had some pretty spectacular sightings of the three main Mara North prides in 2017 (Offbeat, River and Acacia prides). Since then though, all of the pride males of those prides have been displaced and there's a nomadic group of males spreading themselves across the three prides. The lionesses are skittish and nervous and the large groups have really splintered. We'd find a few lionesses here or there, but none in the numbers like we'd seen last year. So while we ended up seeing a fair number, it was very spread out and split up across several sightings. David explained that they see this every 3-5 years, where there is turnover of the males and some instability until things settle down. They're unsure though how things will go with these three prides since there are four males trying to take over three prides across a huge swath of territory. It's unlikely they'll be able to keep that up. A lot of what we saw was sleeping honeymooning males and a female. So the males are doing their best to spread their bloodline in the meantime.
This male looks angry, but he's really just exhibiting the Flehmen response, which allows him to smell at a great distance by pulling air back over his tongue.
Lioness hidden in the grass...
I love the perspective of this one. My eye was first drawn to the lion in the background, completely missing the one in the grass! I thought at first I just had another blurry shot! (Tall grass is a beast to photograph around!)
Big yawn!
Sub-adult cub resting in the bushes
I arrived at Offbeat and was welcomed like I'd just been there. It was only Feb of 2017 but it felt like yesterday. There were the obvious changes to the common area (described above) and a new manager, but the rest was all the same. No real settling in to do, just a wait for lunch and the afternoon game drive. I was very wistful as Ping dropped me off and left. It was a very successful game drive from when we dropped off my vehicle companions at the airstrip to when we got to Offbeat Mara; we had that male leopard all to ourselves. Ping and I talked and I said that the brother/sister couple that had spent 3 days with us on their very first safari had no idea just how exceptional it was. It was jam-packed with sightings that people may never see. Ping agreed. I've kept in touch with them since I returned and I told them that they had an incredible safari. They replied "We knew that as it happened, we could feel it through you, your excitement was palpable!" After Ping left me at Offbeat, I really wondered how the three days with him could possibly be beat. Or could they?
Anyway, as I was waiting for lunch, I started chatting with some of the guests trickling in. One older British gentleman introduced himself and said I'd be sharing David and Kappen with him for three days until he left. It turns out it was Richard, a photographer I follow and have corresponded with on Facebook! Small world! I knew he visited Offbeat twice a year and always requested David and Kappen as his guide and spotter. I had left for Kenya before he announced he was going to be there, so this was a surprise to me. I was thrilled. I love his photography and was honored to finally meet him. And I knew he liked the up early/stay out late schedule that I do, as well as the cats, so it was already a great match up.
I had some pretty spectacular sightings of the three main Mara North prides in 2017 (Offbeat, River and Acacia prides). Since then though, all of the pride males of those prides have been displaced and there's a nomadic group of males spreading themselves across the three prides. The lionesses are skittish and nervous and the large groups have really splintered. We'd find a few lionesses here or there, but none in the numbers like we'd seen last year. So while we ended up seeing a fair number, it was very spread out and split up across several sightings. David explained that they see this every 3-5 years, where there is turnover of the males and some instability until things settle down. They're unsure though how things will go with these three prides since there are four males trying to take over three prides across a huge swath of territory. It's unlikely they'll be able to keep that up. A lot of what we saw was sleeping honeymooning males and a female. So the males are doing their best to spread their bloodline in the meantime.
This male looks angry, but he's really just exhibiting the Flehmen response, which allows him to smell at a great distance by pulling air back over his tongue.
Lioness hidden in the grass...
I love the perspective of this one. My eye was first drawn to the lion in the background, completely missing the one in the grass! I thought at first I just had another blurry shot! (Tall grass is a beast to photograph around!)
Big yawn!
Sub-adult cub resting in the bushes
Dec 19th, 2018, 08:29 AM
#28
Original Poster
Offbeat Mara
On our first morning drive, we headed out specifically with the objective of finding Nalangu, the resident leopard who was presently in estrus and actively mating with an unknown male. Ordinarily this would be very exciting, but for the fact I'd seen a threesome a few days earlier (I know, I know, first world problems! Spoiled with leopard sightings I was!). We did find the honeymooning leopards here, but not in the act. It did give me my best golden light shot of a leopard ever, though.
On our first morning drive, we headed out specifically with the objective of finding Nalangu, the resident leopard who was presently in estrus and actively mating with an unknown male. Ordinarily this would be very exciting, but for the fact I'd seen a threesome a few days earlier (I know, I know, first world problems! Spoiled with leopard sightings I was!). We did find the honeymooning leopards here, but not in the act. It did give me my best golden light shot of a leopard ever, though.
Dec 19th, 2018, 08:37 AM
#29
Original Poster
Offbeat Mara -- last full day
On my last full day at Offbeat, we headed out with the objective of finding two cheetah brothers who'd left the conservancy for a while but were rumored by another Offbeat guide to have returned, and he said they looked thin and hungry. By this point, Richard had gone and I was sharing a vehicle with two young honeymooning kids from the UK. They didn't get the message that we were leaving promptly at 6:00 a.m. and eventually someone went to fetch them at 6:15. Argh.
Well, long story short, we headed to the area the cheetahs were last seen the night before. As we were driving there, Kappen told David to stop and he stood on his seat and popped out of the roof. Off in the distance, maybe 1/2 mile off, I saw a herd of wildebeest scattering, like they'd been chased. Wouldn't you know it, the cheetah brother had just made a kill. Dang. Woulda coulda shoulda...if only we'd left on time! Anyway, by the time we pulled up, the cheetahs had been dispersed by a lone hyena which made quick work of the wildebeest as his jackal friend looked on. We also saw the scavenger birds start circling.
On my last full day at Offbeat, we headed out with the objective of finding two cheetah brothers who'd left the conservancy for a while but were rumored by another Offbeat guide to have returned, and he said they looked thin and hungry. By this point, Richard had gone and I was sharing a vehicle with two young honeymooning kids from the UK. They didn't get the message that we were leaving promptly at 6:00 a.m. and eventually someone went to fetch them at 6:15. Argh.
Well, long story short, we headed to the area the cheetahs were last seen the night before. As we were driving there, Kappen told David to stop and he stood on his seat and popped out of the roof. Off in the distance, maybe 1/2 mile off, I saw a herd of wildebeest scattering, like they'd been chased. Wouldn't you know it, the cheetah brother had just made a kill. Dang. Woulda coulda shoulda...if only we'd left on time! Anyway, by the time we pulled up, the cheetahs had been dispersed by a lone hyena which made quick work of the wildebeest as his jackal friend looked on. We also saw the scavenger birds start circling.
Dec 19th, 2018, 08:57 AM
#31
Original Poster
Offbeat Cheetahs continued
I think the honeymooning couple felt bad that their delay caused us to miss that cheetah hunt, chase and kill, both for themselves as well as for me, David and Kappen. I think that may be why they agreed to continue following these boys into the heat of midday and right up to lunch. Yes, we spent nearly 6 hours with these two, seeing four attempted hunts (including two full-speed chases) but none was successful. Since we didn't want to tip off any of the plains game (they will figure out that there are predators nearby if vehicles just sit and watch) we stayed a good distance away and watched through binoculars. It got super hot in the sun, even with a roof to provide shade, but I think we all were desperate to see the cats hunt and eat. They didn't get to enjoy much of the wildebeest they'd caught in the early morning before the hyena took it. A couple of times the brothers would be deep in a bush, with naive plains game just showing up on the scene (so they don't know they're there) and passing right in front of them and they wouldn't go for it. It was good fun listening to David and Kappen argue over which zebra, impala or wildebeest was the next likely target.
My camera did reasonably well in getting some longer distance shots of the cheetahs. I normally don't like shooting at any great distance for more than just documentary (proof) shots.
It was still great to see two males together and two cats that were new to me altogether. We headed back to Offbeat for lunch and to cool off.
I think the honeymooning couple felt bad that their delay caused us to miss that cheetah hunt, chase and kill, both for themselves as well as for me, David and Kappen. I think that may be why they agreed to continue following these boys into the heat of midday and right up to lunch. Yes, we spent nearly 6 hours with these two, seeing four attempted hunts (including two full-speed chases) but none was successful. Since we didn't want to tip off any of the plains game (they will figure out that there are predators nearby if vehicles just sit and watch) we stayed a good distance away and watched through binoculars. It got super hot in the sun, even with a roof to provide shade, but I think we all were desperate to see the cats hunt and eat. They didn't get to enjoy much of the wildebeest they'd caught in the early morning before the hyena took it. A couple of times the brothers would be deep in a bush, with naive plains game just showing up on the scene (so they don't know they're there) and passing right in front of them and they wouldn't go for it. It was good fun listening to David and Kappen argue over which zebra, impala or wildebeest was the next likely target.
My camera did reasonably well in getting some longer distance shots of the cheetahs. I normally don't like shooting at any great distance for more than just documentary (proof) shots.
It was still great to see two males together and two cats that were new to me altogether. We headed back to Offbeat for lunch and to cool off.
Dec 19th, 2018, 09:03 AM
#32
Original Poster
Maasai Mara skies
Over time, I've become obsessed with the skies in Africa, particularly Kenya and especially the Maasai Mara. I think because I grew up on the Atlantic, I have available to me (should I get up early enough) the beauty of an ocean sunrise, but seldom get to see really epic sunsets, since most everything west of me is populated land. In the Mara, the vast expanse of just nothing at all allows for 360 views of weather cells, clouds and in this case thunderstorms that make sunsets an epic performance. These were some of my best sunsets on any of my safaris.
Offbeat set up a firepit for our last night sundowners, complete with camp chairs and lanterns. It was excellent.
Here, the thunderstorm was a few miles away in the main Reserve, but it didn't rain at all in Mara North.
And on another night, something told me to look behind us as we were driving off from a lion sighting, and I had to get David to stop to watch this sunset take place, my favorite of any I've seen:
And I even like just the golden light of pre-sunset. This is a Mara palette if ever there was one:
Over time, I've become obsessed with the skies in Africa, particularly Kenya and especially the Maasai Mara. I think because I grew up on the Atlantic, I have available to me (should I get up early enough) the beauty of an ocean sunrise, but seldom get to see really epic sunsets, since most everything west of me is populated land. In the Mara, the vast expanse of just nothing at all allows for 360 views of weather cells, clouds and in this case thunderstorms that make sunsets an epic performance. These were some of my best sunsets on any of my safaris.
Offbeat set up a firepit for our last night sundowners, complete with camp chairs and lanterns. It was excellent.
Here, the thunderstorm was a few miles away in the main Reserve, but it didn't rain at all in Mara North.
And on another night, something told me to look behind us as we were driving off from a lion sighting, and I had to get David to stop to watch this sunset take place, my favorite of any I've seen:
And I even like just the golden light of pre-sunset. This is a Mara palette if ever there was one:
Dec 19th, 2018, 09:06 AM
#33
Original Poster
A few more random shots...
I tried to focus this time on a lot of other elements of safari, birds in particular. I don't know that I'll ever love them like I do the cats, but I'm trying. They are not easy to photograph well!
I tried to focus this time on a lot of other elements of safari, birds in particular. I don't know that I'll ever love them like I do the cats, but I'm trying. They are not easy to photograph well!
Dec 19th, 2018, 09:11 AM
#34
Original Poster
A sure fire way to know if there's a predator (or something else) interesting nearby is to follow the frozen stares of plains game (zebra, impala, wildebeest, gazelles, etc.) as they all gawk in one direction. We came across a large herd of zebra staring off in one direction and finally discovered they were looking at one of their own, which had been near-fatally wounded in what appeared to be a lion attack. Whether the herd was afraid of what might happen to them, or perhaps relieved that it wasn't themselves this time, we're not sure. Ping didn't think this one would last long based on the severity of the attack and the trouble it had staying upright.
Getting to and from Offbeat Camp in a certain direction, there's a very very steep decline in the road and a steep incline to match. At the base between the two is a dried up river, which consistently provided us with some great elephant encounters each time we passed through it:
Getting to and from Offbeat Camp in a certain direction, there's a very very steep decline in the road and a steep incline to match. At the base between the two is a dried up river, which consistently provided us with some great elephant encounters each time we passed through it:
Dec 19th, 2018, 09:32 AM
#35
Original Poster
Back to Nairobi National Park and heading home
Not much really gets to me anymore, but leaving my last camp on safari always does. Even on my first one, as the tiny little plane lifted us off to take us back to reality, I was a soggy mess. And this time was no different. The honeymooning kids were flying back to Nairobi with me, so I warned them en route that they may want to pretend they don't know me, or pretend I have a fear of flying. There's no stopping the floodgates once I start, and no distracting me. David and Kappen though added to the sadness. After hugs and promises to return, I boarded the plane regretfully. Our Safarilink flight pulled away from where our vehicle was parked and went to turn at the top of the airstrip. As we picked up speed and taxied past them, they were both jumping and waving at us like a couple of little kids. It was all I could do not to jump out and stay.
I had a day-room planned back at the Emakoko. My plan was to take my first real shower in over a week, check email (was my family still alive? how'd we do in the mid-term elections?) and relax before dinner and a slow night drive to the airport. I was shown to my room and I kicked back on the deck with my iPad and a drink. Feet up, I tried to relax and reflect. Then I felt eyes on me. You know that feeling when you just know someone is looking at you?
This guy is a Sykes monkey. There are tons of them here. Ordinarily my rooms at the Emakoko have been at ground level, so I'd not seen them before. They try to stay out of the way of the staff who shoo them off. For my day room, I was on the second level, about 100 steps (no exaggeration) up from the first level. I was at tree level with him. I watched his eyes and saw that he had his mind set on getting through the door behind me and into my room. I quickly got up and closed the doors then realized I left windows open. He was faster than me though, and headed for both open windows. I beat him to one, but not the other. He was about to set foot into the room through the second window, when I clapped, pointed out and said "Down down" like I do to my cats. Off he went.
At about 4:00 there was a knock at my door. The guide asked if I'd want to do a game drive in the park before dinner. DID I? What kind of silly question is that? Of course I did. So off we went. I was paired with two other day-room guests. One asserted that she wanted to see rhino since she hadn't yet. I didn't really care what we saw, I was just in it to enjoy my last game drive. And really, how could anything I see here beat what I'd just seen in the Mara (and last week here at the Emakoko?) I didn't even really bring my camera out. And then I saw four rhinos. Two females, a big male with a familiar pointy sharp horn, and a one-year old calf. He was alive! I asked the guide if he'd talked to Rashid about the encounter we'd seen that last night over a week ago, and he said yes, this is the same family. So my game drive brought the whole safari full circle, and I found out the calf didn't get killed by the sex-craved male. PHEW!
Big Daddy:
Raining in the city, but sunny here!
And that was my last game drive. It was really all I needed and it seemed a fitting end.
Not much really gets to me anymore, but leaving my last camp on safari always does. Even on my first one, as the tiny little plane lifted us off to take us back to reality, I was a soggy mess. And this time was no different. The honeymooning kids were flying back to Nairobi with me, so I warned them en route that they may want to pretend they don't know me, or pretend I have a fear of flying. There's no stopping the floodgates once I start, and no distracting me. David and Kappen though added to the sadness. After hugs and promises to return, I boarded the plane regretfully. Our Safarilink flight pulled away from where our vehicle was parked and went to turn at the top of the airstrip. As we picked up speed and taxied past them, they were both jumping and waving at us like a couple of little kids. It was all I could do not to jump out and stay.
I had a day-room planned back at the Emakoko. My plan was to take my first real shower in over a week, check email (was my family still alive? how'd we do in the mid-term elections?) and relax before dinner and a slow night drive to the airport. I was shown to my room and I kicked back on the deck with my iPad and a drink. Feet up, I tried to relax and reflect. Then I felt eyes on me. You know that feeling when you just know someone is looking at you?
This guy is a Sykes monkey. There are tons of them here. Ordinarily my rooms at the Emakoko have been at ground level, so I'd not seen them before. They try to stay out of the way of the staff who shoo them off. For my day room, I was on the second level, about 100 steps (no exaggeration) up from the first level. I was at tree level with him. I watched his eyes and saw that he had his mind set on getting through the door behind me and into my room. I quickly got up and closed the doors then realized I left windows open. He was faster than me though, and headed for both open windows. I beat him to one, but not the other. He was about to set foot into the room through the second window, when I clapped, pointed out and said "Down down" like I do to my cats. Off he went.
At about 4:00 there was a knock at my door. The guide asked if I'd want to do a game drive in the park before dinner. DID I? What kind of silly question is that? Of course I did. So off we went. I was paired with two other day-room guests. One asserted that she wanted to see rhino since she hadn't yet. I didn't really care what we saw, I was just in it to enjoy my last game drive. And really, how could anything I see here beat what I'd just seen in the Mara (and last week here at the Emakoko?) I didn't even really bring my camera out. And then I saw four rhinos. Two females, a big male with a familiar pointy sharp horn, and a one-year old calf. He was alive! I asked the guide if he'd talked to Rashid about the encounter we'd seen that last night over a week ago, and he said yes, this is the same family. So my game drive brought the whole safari full circle, and I found out the calf didn't get killed by the sex-craved male. PHEW!
Big Daddy:
Raining in the city, but sunny here!
And that was my last game drive. It was really all I needed and it seemed a fitting end.
Dec 19th, 2018, 10:35 PM
#36
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AmyB, your stories and photos are wonderful!! Love the story of the limping lion who nevertheless managed to get up--and get it up--to mate! Wow--what a story fro Offbeat of the manager (?) holding on to a tree. literally for dear life, through a raging river flood!
I have to re-read more slowly to savor the details, but meanwhile...thank you. Your last classic photo of the beautiful Kenyan sunset is a perfect ending!
I have to re-read more slowly to savor the details, but meanwhile...thank you. Your last classic photo of the beautiful Kenyan sunset is a perfect ending!
Dec 20th, 2018, 04:21 AM
#37
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Thank you CaliNurse. As you well know, all the excitement and action is addictive and while one part of me thinks I'm foolish for trying to top this, the other part of me is dying to try! There were a lot more "lesser" sightings but these are the ones that stand out for me looking back. I was really lucky on this one!
Dec 21st, 2018, 07:31 AM
#38
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Great report Amy. Are you a Leo? My favourite are lions as well and could watch them all day although love the other animals as well of course. I am a Leo so wonder sometimes. Not that I'm really into that stuff. Your photos are fantastic. Thanks for reporting.
Dec 21st, 2018, 08:51 AM
#39
Original Poster
Funny you ask, live42day, I'm not officially a Leo, although I'm July 21st, so on the cusp! I really love the lions and never thought that might be why!
Thank you for reading along, and for your comments!
Thank you for reading along, and for your comments!
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