bat

tripgirl:
Thanks for the report, I am enjoying it and looking forward to the next installment. What a great experience doing the radio program from there--rock star treatment indeed!

uhoh_busted

Very much enjoying your report. We fell in love with Capetown on our visit. It is a fabulous city. And we haven't even heard about your wine lands visit! I'd go back in the blink of an eye. Most stunning wine country I've ever seen (and we've been to lots of wine "countries&quot

tripgirl

Thanks all for your replies.

June 3rd: Hello Atlantic, Hello Indian, the meeting of the two oceans and my cute little penguins

Today is our day to explore the entire Cape Peninsula!

We see everything!

We start our visiting the cape fur seals and we go on a small ferry boat to see them. Only us and one other couple aboard so we are offered a great view of these little creatures. I never have seen a seal before so this was especially excitng.

After our seal visit, we head down the coast and end up at the Cape of Good Hope. Now here is where it got interesting.

Andrew tells us normally there is a line of cars backed up all the way from the entrance to the cape. Today its just us, one lone car making our way to the Cape. It is low season, but the feeling of just one car on the road surrounded by land was so eerie!!! I felt like we were the only 3 people left on earth!!!

We make it to the Cape and there are others there, but not many at all. Once we ascended the point, almost on cue, the mist began to set in and a drizzle is forming.

In my opinion, this is perfect!!!! From history, I only remember the Cape as being stormy, rather gloomy
and so this bit of mist and fog is just so perfect.

As we enjoy the Cape for a little bit and then descend, what happens? The rain stops and its sunny! AAAAh.. Cape town weather!

The day also included my favortie part, seeing the penguins at Boulders Beach. They are so cute! I somehow had it in my head that they were bigger. There was quite a few when we arrived and one of them was squawking to another one and its was so funny to watch!

Lunch was a wonderful at Harbour House in Kalk Bay. A really nice atmospheric restaurant with waves crashing against the rocks below. Service is lovely and we all enjoy seafood meals, starting with a shrimp, tomato and avocado appetizer. It makes for a great spot to stop if you are on the peninsula for the day.

Andrew points out all the little towns and all the beaches and drive is very beautiful, reminds me of the Amalfi Coast a bit. DH and I are already discussing renting a house on Clifton Beach or Camps Bay for our winter when DH retires in a year. We hate winter!!

The day is worth it so even you don't have a guide or driver, drive yourself out there and enjoy the beautiful scenery and almost the end of the earth! We also pass by District 6 when we return and on our way out for the day we passed by the areas where the District 6 residents were moved to,sad.....

Next up... Dinner at Jardine ( sorry just got done teaching so a bit tired tonight)

tripgirl

Continued....

We enjoy a little down time to relax and each evening at the elevator bank on the 4th floor there is a staff member serving champagne and other drinks plus little nibbles, each evening from 6-8pm. A nice touch.

Dinner is at Jardines this night.

Jardines a relatively new restaurant I am told is a hip, and much happening place on this weekday night. An bustling open kitchen with 20 something chefs create really fabulous food in a wanna be scene that is not overbearing.

Tonight I take a break from animals and enjoy a wonderful gnocchi and Dh enjoys the four course menu which has as its entree a light fish. Wines again are superb. Service excellent. Lots of light wood and hip paintings, but a comfortable and enjoyable evening.

June 4th: A little relaxing and wandering

Today we are without Andrew and so we sleep in a little ( gotta enjoy this fabulous room!) and decide to mop up some more museums and stroll Long Street. If it were the summer there, probably we would have head for the beaches.

We enjoy the cultural museum and museum of art for the first part of the day and then just stroll along Long Street for awhile. Two days ago we were actually along here wiht Andrew and briefly looked at the Greenmarket Square and went to the Store Tribal Treasures which I would highly recommend. We bought alot of gifts in this store; and I bought a beautiful bracelet for myself.

Lunch is at Bukhara and yes the Indian food is good, but not as good as some I have had here even in the States. The place is pleasant enough and the service is swift. I enjoy Palak Paneer and DH has a Lamb dish.

Today is just an easy day, you need those sometimes on vacation!

We do more of the same relaxing before dinner and then head to for our final meal in Capetown: Savoy Cabbage.

Since it is low season, this very popular restaurant is actually almost empty! Not to worry though as the food makes up for the lack of buzz. The place is lovely with exposed brick, two level dining and an open kitchen. Tonight I have a lovely beet tart, sounds not so good, but it was very tasty and a salad. DH has some kind of meat, I forget. Wine, yes you guessed it is fabulous. I can imagine inthe hgih season this place is humming, but we settled in for a relatvely quiet evening here with good food and good wine.

June 5th: A sad day today: We have to leave Capetown!!! ( but we are headed to heaven: the Winelands!)

Next up.....

tripgirl

June 5th: We are departing Capetown: a sad day, but to the Winelands we go!

We leave about 10 am with a big send off from all the Cape Grace staff of whom each day we have had nice conversations with. It just occured to me today why I keep saying its the best trip in 20 yrs.

Although we are very friendly people, on this trip we became attached to so many people we met and it was mostly the people that made our trip! From the staffs at each location to the travelers we met to the local people; we wanted to take everyone home with us!

Andrew is all ready to drive us to the Winelands. But first on our way out we visit the Kirstenbosch Gardens. Its a brief visit, but I can see that the gardens would be so spectacular in their spring. It's a nice little tour and glad we made a bit of time for it.

Onwards to Franschoek!

The drive out the Winelands is beautiful. I think its more dramatic than Napa and we LOVE Napa.

We wind our way through Stellenbosch first and Andrew drives through so we can see it, but we are to return here anyway the next day.

We arrive at Le Quartier Francais!
But first major hugs for Andrew who was really terrific and wants us to stay in touch especially if we return during our winter for an extended stay.

Le Quartier is sooo nice! Exactly how I pictured it even though I saw tons of pictures. We are warmly greeted by Linda the manager, although our room is not quite ready yet. But that's ok; we are in time for lunch and the complimentary car service whisks us away to our reservation at Bread and Wine, a restaurant owned by Le quartier.

Bread and Wine is on Moreson Farm and the setting is beautiful. We choose to dine outdoors as it is warm and delightful.

We sit under a shady tree and enjoy a chilled glass of rose and sauvignon blanc. Lunch for me is the homemade charcuterie platter and Dh has a lovely fish.

We linger over our wine and enjoy the mountain backdrop and the pleasant service. Inside there is a neat little gourmet shop and I purchase some Rooibos and Olive Oil soap as gifts.

When we return our room is ready and its just great. A lovely large room, number 7. Inside is a round table greeting us with snacks and beverages and all sorts of info on Franschoek. The bed is big with beatiful fabric and the bathroom is nice with a large rainshower.

We settle in and then go for a walk in town and peruse all the little shops, wish I had even more time to shop. We pick up some gifts and its just a wonderful little town to stroll and enjoy.

This day is also the birthday of one of my best friends child who is now 1. DH and I are like and aunt and uncle to him and so I arranged in advance to have the staff sing Happy Birthday to him in Afrikans.

All is ready for us at 4pm in the lobby. Linda assembles a team of four lovely ladies and I place the call back home and they sing Happy Birthday in Afrikans to little Jack into my cell. Great fun!!!

Tonight is a special night. We have been invited to the owners house for dinner!! Before we left we were informed that the Tasting Room is actually going to closed and our we would not be able to dine there as planned... BUT.. our agent finagles an invitation to dine in the privacy of the owners house which is across the street from LQF and the chefs from the Tasting Room are going to cook for us!! So we enjoy an amazing four course meal of which I have listed below.

There are three other couples invited and one couple turns out to be from DC right near us! They are on their honeymoon. Not everyone staying there gets an invite, so we very very privileged.

It's an extraordinary evening and the owner Susan is so interesting! In regards to Margo Janse the famous chef of the Tasting Room, no she was not present at the dinner but her sous chefs were. But Susan knowing that I am in the food business, wants me to meet Margo and so arranges a meeting the next day. So indeed I meet the famous Margo and complement her profusely on the dinner we had.

Here is the menu:

Prawn koeksister, tomato jam, preserved lime salad
Wine; Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Wild Mushroom and Potato Lasagne, truffle emulsion, fig glaze
Wine; Moreson Premium Chardonnay 2006

Sugar Cured Wildebeest loin, buchu gnocchi, beetroot ragout, raspberry beurre noisette
Wine: Raats Cabernet Franc 2006

Bitter Chocolate and geranium fondant, white chocolate veloute, plum sorbet
wine: Graham Beck Brut

STUNNING!!! As you can see I saved our individual menus so I would have a record of this extraordinary evening.

Preceding the meal we all enjoy a bevy of appetizers, my favorite was the fried capers ( I rarely eat anything fried, but these were so different and outstanding) and some wonderful champagne.

We wrap up several hours later almost about 11:30pm and its been a great night. The whole table discusses everything under the sun.

Warm hot water bottles are tucked under our comfy blankets and its off to nighty night with thougths of the next day... 4 wineries to visit with Stephen Flesch , former head of the SA Wine Guild.

Next up.. Shiraz, Shiraz, Shiraz ( but other wines too!)

tripgirl

I wish to back track just a bit before I continue...

I wanted to give a Capetown summary, sort of like a snapshot so all is summarized properly:

ACCOMODATIONS: Cape Grace on the Waterfront. Most of the stay is in the renovated 4th floor room. If you are planing a trip for later on, most likely all the rooms wil get done. If you are off soon, see if you can snag a 4th floor room, well worth it!

RESTAURANTS:

Lunches:

Baia on the waterfront
Rhodes Memorial
Bascule Whisky Bar at the hotel
Harbour House in Kalk Bay
Bukhara on Church at the intersection of Church and Long Street, downtown

Nyonni Kraal: Long Street
Azure, in the 12 Apostles Hotel, Camps Bay
Showroom
Jardine
Savoy Cabbage

I almost forgot that one night we went to the Green Dolphin for jazz. Since it was low season it was practically empty but we heard good jazz from a lovely little trio.
Green Dolphin is on the Waterfront a skip and a jump from the Cape Grace and we like it. Can see that the place would be hopping more in season. We love jazz!

ACTIVITIES

Table Mountain
Robben Island
Rhodes Memorial
Driving through alot of Capetowns neighborhoods
Long Street
Greenmarket Square
Parliament
Jewish Museum
District 6 Museum
Tea at the Nellie
BoKaap:

Please forgive me: I totally blanked out not telling you all that we visited the neighborhood of BoKaap, the colorul neighborhood of mostly Muslim people. It's delightful and so different from the rest of capetown. Again, so sorry for not including in my report!!!

Museum of art
Cultural Museum
Cape Peninsula Tour with Cape Fur Seals, African Penguins, Cape of Good Hope, all the towns along the way to include Simonstown, Hout Bay, Kalk Bay, etc. See District 6 on the way back.
Kirstenbosch Gardens

I most likely forgot something, but here you have it, Capetown in a Nutshell.

We are SO looking forward to spending our winter there!!!!

Gotta run and see some clients, but back tomorrow with our Shiraz, Shiraz, Shiraz Day!!

tripgirl

June 6th: Shiraz, Shiraz, Shiraz Day with Stephen Flesch

Ok, so we do have more than Shiraz, but as it turns out DH has always been in love with SA Shiraz and today keeps him on that path.

We have a lovely little breakfast in the area of the hotel where the Four Quarters Suites are. We make friends with a couple from NY who are on their honeymoon. They used to live near us so we instantly click. They are staying in one of the elaborate suites. If we were going to stay longer than 2 nites, I would have sprung for the suites. They look incredible.

At about 9;45am, Stephen picks us up and our day of sampling has begun. The night before, Susan tells us of a new museum that has just opened and we must see it: It's a Car Museum! She says is absolutely a must see; four buildings of car: classic cars, fast cars, mercedes and the fourth I can't quite remember right now. Anyway, she we have to try in fit it in during our wine day.

She sees Stephen before we do and she asks him if there is any way we can got to see it even though our day is crammed with wineries. He wants to see the museum too!

So we end up leaving out one of the five wineries we were supposed to do in favor of ending the day with the car museum. As it turns out we are so glad we do; the collection is amazing.. more on that later.

Stephen is an elegant man with lots of wine years under his belt. He is knowledgeable and very plesant to be with.

First top is Lynx wines, a small winery run by a husband and wife team. Dieter explains all about the process on how makes his wines and we are taken into his distillery and explained all. For the tasting, we taste about 4 wines and yes, you guessed it.. we like his Shiraz the best. The Shiraz got 5 stars in the Platter Guide for 2008.

Next stop is Stony Brook winery, a winery run by a very wealthy man who has a passion for wine and the space is very well run and organized. Again, we taste 4 wines, Shiraz is the winner

One more winery before lunch and that turns out to be our favortie, De Trafford of which the Platter guide gives 5 stars to its Shiraz. A lovely woman conducts our tasting and De Trafford is a much lauded well respected winery. When we got to Singita later on in our trip, Francois the sommelier praised De Trafford very highly.

Sufficiently satiated with wine, we head for lunch at Terroir in Stellenbosch. A fabulous spot, the chef is quite well known and the food is great. We opt to sit inside as it is just a tad chilly out. Stpehen chooses a lovely bottle of wine for us, a Pinotage, and we enjoy our meat and seafood dishes. Rooibos tea for me. A very nice spot indeed.

One more winery to go, DeMaye and alas to my surprise DH actually purchases not a Shiraz this time although their Shiraz is wonderful. We select a blend of Cab, Merlot and Pinot.

By this time we are headed to the Car Museum. Housed in 4 separate buildings containing about 20-25 cars each all in mint condition, the museum attempts to cover different themes: fast cars, classic cars, Mercedes and one theme which I forgot, I will ask DH. Each collection starts out with the first in the collection dating back and ends with the most recent. A guide comes with you, but you are free to take photos and wander the collections. I'm not even a car person and I enjoyed this tremendously.

By now its about 4:30 and we are returned safe and sound to LQF with Stephen. A really nice day with a knowledgeable person who take sus to more of the boutique wineries. If you are interested his e mail [email protected]. website: www.gourmetwinetours.co.za

We enjoy the privacy and comfort of our room for awhile and then its off to a massage for me! A chocolate massage! Yes, warm chocolate is used to massage my aching back and feet and the massage therapist is really really good. LQF has a very small little spa, just one soothing room for therapies. But all kinds of therapies are on offer and its a nice relaxing way to end the day.

Next up.. A fun and fabulous dinner at Bouillabaisse......

Katie_H

I've been enjoying your report tripgirl--thanks for taking the time to post it in all its glorious detail.

"While parts of the food, wine, people, safari do stand out as particular highlights( and I'll share those of course), it was not a trip of highlights; everything together worked and perhaps that is why I felt it was the best in 20 yrs. in other words, there was no dependency on highlights, it all one just one big ball of a fabulous vacation."

Love it! Hope to have a trip like this one day myself.

tripgirl

Thanks Katie!

So dinner is at Bouillabaisse tonight. Still smelling like chocolate,( DH always kids me about loving unusual spa treaments, wait till we get to Singita where I smell like coffee!), its a bit rainy so the hotel car drops us off at the restaurant, its just a fast maybe 7-10 minute walk from the hotel, but the car is willing to take us there.

Bouillabaisse bills itself as a champagne and oyster bar but its so much more. We saved the menu on this one as it was so creative. The menu is based in an extensive range of fish ( as well as non fish) dishes and each menu category is compiled with tastes and flavors from around the world with a Asian twist.

The menu is not structured around the traditional categories but is instead an open invitation to order randomly from any of the menu selections ( all of the above is written on the menu)

So... the categories go something like this:

Tantalizing Tasters: Small Tastes Fish and then Non Fish. R55. These are small bites

Out of this category we order Wontons filled with curried anchovy fish and sweet potato served with sage and macadamia butter.

Oyster Category: we adore oysters!

We order Fresh oyster served with fermented black bean sherry dressing and cucumber and lemon relish. R19each

Delightful Tastes: Medium Tasters Fish: R65: larger portions of tastes

We order Two sardine basil fritters served with pressed tomatoes and olive basil salsa

And Prawn fish croquettes served with slow roasted beetroot salad and horseradish mayonnaise

There is also Sensational Taste: Small Mains fish and Non fish
R75

We did not order anything from here, but all looks amazing

The Divine Seafood Platter
R185

The Orient Express Menu for R395 which consists of 7 courses and matching wines for an extra R169

Prestige dishes: The Chefs Selection, R110

From which we order the Japanese Fish Plate: Sashimi, tartar of tuna and salmon served with sushi rice, crab creation, wasabi mayonnaise and pickled ginger.

Total mouthful, I know!!!

It's truly creative and more than that, its a fun restaurant. The owners were seated at one table and seemed to know everyone that walked in; we were the only tourists. Both parties seated to our sides then descened upon us at some point and were so nice and friendly. One couple, he from SA, she from Germany, lived in NY for awhile as he was in advertising and then they moved back to SA so they could be in the wine business selling grapes. They live in Franschoek.

The other party was a gruop of Brits who live part time in Franschoek and the gentleman of the group was so intrigued that DH was in the space business and they chatted endlessly about all the missions DH worked on at JPL and all about the space business.

Everyone was just so kind and friendly and the food was magnificent and one of the most creative we had on this trip.

A definite for your restaurant lists!

We know we leave tomorrow, but 2 days is perfect ( I could do 3) for a nice tour of your chosen wineries and to partake in gourmet food. LQF is just right for us.

If I had to do over again, I don't think I would change much at all, I think I'd still like to stay in Franschoek. Perhpas visit some of the bigger wineries next time, shop a little more and generally do what we did, relax, eat, drink and enjoy the magnificent scenery!

I would try to stay in the Winelands rather than doing it as a day trip from Cape Town, as I know many do. I think you get more out of it.

Next up.. We leave Winelands bound for Johannesburg: Meeting the most extraordinary man( yes, besides DH!!) and the most heartfelt day of my life!

tripgirl

Winelands Summary:

ACCOMODATIONS: Le Quartier Francais, Franschoek. It does not overlook rolling hills, so if you have this kind of picture in your mind, you would be better off at a wine estate. We chose it for several reasons. The accomodations were supposed to be lux and the food at the Tasting Room( of which we had privately). We also wanted to be able to walk in to a town setting.

RESTAURANTS

Lunches
Bread and Wine, Moreson Farm
Terroir, Stellenbosch

Dinners;

Private dinner at the owners house, but its the Tasting Room Menu
Bouillabaisse

Activities:

4 wineries and the Car Museum
Shopping in Franschoek
Chocolate massage

A nice 2 day stay I would do anytime again!

Alejandra

I very much love your food talk....thanks for detailed report so far!

Selwyn_Davidowitz

Tripgirl,

All I can say is that your trip report on Cape Town and the Cape winelands has to be one of the best I have ever read in this forum. For an old hand who knows and has experienced all the places that you wrote of I enjoyed reading every word you wrote. Your report made all come so very alive for me due to your wonderfully decriptive and enjoyable style of writing.

I am so happy that you enjoyed my city and its surrounds and am so pleased that that you are looking forward to returning to us in the future.

Once again thanks a ton for the <b>fabulous</b> trip report

Very proudly part of the wonderful nation of South Africa

tripgirl

Selwyn and Alejandra,

Thanks so much

Selwyn: I am most appreciative of your comments especially since you are the Master of Capetown!

I heard so many nice things about you from people here and Julian.

I really do love your city and hope to return there for our winter.

Now onto to Johannesburg:

We depart LQF and say our goodbyes and head for the airport.
So.. this report has gone on long enough with all positive things, right? Well our first snag happens at the airport.

Our BA plane to Johannesburg has been cancelled. In todays wonderful world of airport travel, it does not come as a surprise, but nonetheless a pain in the you know what.

So here is how it goes. They make the announcement for all of us to go back to the ticket counter and the first 25 people wil be put on the next flight, a flight called One time Airlines. After that, the other people will be put on subsequent flights.

So normally I am not a pushy person, but I was out of my own body on this one. We raced to the counter and pushed forward so we could get on the next flight.

We had a wonderful tour waiting for us( the tour that changed my life) and so hence the agressive behavior. The One time Airlines proved to be a nice airline, so once we were up inthe air, everything was ok.

Anyway, we arrive to Johannesburg 2 hours past our original arrival time. I called ahead to Robin Binckes our tour guide so he would know. When I spoke with him, I was doubly upset for he sounded like such a wonderful man who we were to spend the whole day with and now our day with him would be cut short.

Phooey on the airlines!!!

We arrive in one piece and there is Robin all smiles waiting for us...

I just got home from teaching so I will have to continue this tomorrow...

Sorry to keep you all in suspense, but my life is about to change in Johannesburg

On a extra note, I was in tears today. In the middle of the afternoon, I was at Starbucks. I glanced down at the NY Times of which I do not receive at home.

On the front page was a picture of a little child with both legs broken. The child is from Zimbabwe. His mother was being questioned as to where her husband is. The childs legs were broken by these thugs in response to the mothers refusal to let them know where he was. I just stood in the middle of Starbucks holding the paper with tears.

Normally when I read about such atrocities particulary with children involved, I am indeed saddened, but today, I was so overcome with emotion, perhaps being right next door to Zim on this trip , it all just got to me so much.

I am so overcome with sadness about the whole situation and wish there was more that I can do

Back tomorrow...

peyton18

Great report...can't wait for the next installment!

tripgirl

June 7th: Our time with Robin Binckes

So Robin Binckes is a guide who has a business called Spear of the Nation. He is a wonderful man, and we know the moment we meet him we are in a quite a day.

He takes over our luggage and we make our way to his van. Since we are late, we need to re-arrange our plans with him.

Robin offers us the best way to experience Johannesburg is for him to take us to the township of Alexandra.

This was on our itinerary but in addition we were also supposed to visit Vlakplaas and Lileasleaf and go to the Aparteid Museum, have lunch and do alot more. But he suggests we spend our time in Alexandra and what we are to experience will change us.

As we drive to Alexandra Robin gives us a history of Johannesburg and how certain events led to the moulding of attitudes resulting in actions, in which in today's society are hard to believe happened and how history is often repeated. Robin does disclose that he worked for the aparteid governement and knew it was wrong. He now devotes his work to helping people in the townships. His guiding business takes in all of Joburg with particular emphasis on showing you what is happening today.

Alexandra is a lively, vibrant township situation on the outskirts of Johannsburg. Yes, it is
the township where alot of the violence was recently regarding the xenophobic situation. I suppose anyone might think we were crazy to go there, but let me tell you, although there is no denying that there was violence here just two days before we arrived, for what we are to experience, the media does not show.

Everyone knows Robin for he has created foundations for the people of Alexandra. He also sponsors a soccer team for them and sponsors a little girl since she was 2, Mandisa, who we will meet later.

The moment we arrived in the sprawling township, it seems everyone comes up to the van to see Robin and meet us. They call him &quot;old white man&quot;, a term of endearment. He gets on with these people so well.

As Robin is touring us up and down each and every street I can't believe what I am seeing.

Now I have seen poverty before in other countries, but honestly not on this scale and not of this nature. what I mean by this is that I was practically in tears all day, but not for the reasons you think.

Yes, seeing people in live in the year 2008 in aluminum shacks and general state in which they lived had me crying. But... I have never seen such community spirit, friendship, and some of the nicest people you'd want to meet.

So the day goes on like this, meeting all these people who want to come and talk to you and me feeling like I am just in another world entirely.

Robin brings us to meet Evelyn a woman who makes these wonderful crafts as part of the a program called the Khayalethu &quot;Our Home&quot; job creation project thatunites the community, supports people with AIDS and preserves traditional culture. We practically buy out her entire table. Baskets, pins, trivets, etc are all very pretty and will make great gifts for those back home. More importantly I want to bring awareness of the situation here to my friends and family; I think I have chosen well.

At the same time we are purchasing crafts we meet Mandisa, the 9 yr old girl Robin sponsors. Mandisa lost both parents to AIDS and she lives here with her aunt. Robin was bringing her some afgans.

She is a sweet, shy child, but is sort of the ring leader of a band of kids we also meet. It's obvious Robin loves her.

So we end up spending about 3-3 1/2 hours just here alone as our day with Robin and I am glad we did. I know there is more to see than just this township, but we will just have to come back someday.

Now one of the nicest parts comes at the end of our tour. I notice that when we put the luggage into the car initially there was a plant in the trunk.

We leave the area where we spent most of the day and proceed to a &quot;newer&quot; part of the township, homes built by the government. They are slowing building better housing for all these people and I imagine this will take a long time.

Anyway, back to the plant. Robin shows us this new area and each of the houses has a small front lawn. We stop at one of the houses and Robin finds a nice young man at home.

What Robin does with plant, as he has done 435 times before now, is he finds someone home, introduces himself if they do not already know him and gives them the plant ( a bourganvilla) and tells them to plant it and take care of it. But it is a special plant as it is always named after the client he is with. And so Robin names the plant after me( my true name is also Robyn, Robyn with a &quot;y&quot.

DH takes a picture with the young man, me holding the plant and Robin.

So now I have a plant growing in my name at address 123 ( we don't know if there is street name)in Alexandra.

In addition we also saw the home of Nelson Mandela from the early 40s when he was with the law firm Witken, Sidelsky and Eidelman in johannesburg. the house is kind of hard to see, but nonetheless we understand.

I will never, ever forget our day here. The images of the people are seared into my mind. I cannot get Mandisa's face out of thoughts. when I look at the crafts we purchased, I smile and cry.

Later on when we are at Singita, we meet two very nice travel agents from Johannesburg. But when we told them of our time in Alexandra, they just kind of stared at us in disbelief that we ever even go there. They couldn't understand why we would do this. The disdain they had for the township was evident as was their indifference was palpable.

I'm not judging them for they live in Joburg, but I feel so fortunate as to have gone there as it made my life that much more rich.

We wind our way out of Alexandra and head for the community of Melrose Arch. We pass by upscale community of Sandton and what a difference from where we have just been. I am angry at this difference. It just seems all so unfair, but I know this has gone on for a long long time.

Robin takes us to our hotel, Melrose Arch, a hip hotel nthe gated community of Melrose Arch. It all seems a million miles away from what we just experienced: weird!

Lots of hugs for Robin. I will never forget this man.

Next up.. Our evening at Melrose and Moyo!

tripgirl

So we enter another world in Melrose!

Still thinking about our day with Robin, it's at first just a bit unsettling to come into this fabulous hotel with all its bells and whistles having come from what we experienced.

But I am reasonable enough to know that I can't make apologies for my life which I consider quite privileged. But now I feel fortunate that my life is indeed privileged and that I can be grateful for everything I have and that we can be in a position to help others. I will be contacting Robin about what I can do for the township of Alexandra, I am so moved by all of it.

Anyway, here we are and yes, this hotel is wonderful. The check in is so professional and the young lady who checks us in also comes with us to our high tech room.

If you do not know of the Melrose Arch hotel, it is set within the complex of Melrose Arch and the hotel is a funky, chic place known for their high tech rooms.

Everything is explained to us and DH is having a ball with the stereo system built into the wall that is the best sound system we ever heard. The room is bright with fabulous funky pictures, the bed big and inviting, the bathroom and bedroom are only separated by a curtain, but the actual toilet and shower have a door for privacy. The shower is large and its a rain shower. Peanut M &amp;M's and bottled water sit upon the desk as complimentary treats.

The whole place has sense of playful fun.

We settle in and then knowing we are up early to Botswana the next day, we freshen up and head just right across the street to Moyo.

Moyo is a restaurant with several locations in SA and this one is fun!

The place is huge with lots of separate dining areas and we are led downstairs into a most atmospheric room.

The menu is all African dishes and we take time to admire our surroundings and the tableware which is exquisite.

Thy first bring you a bread and condiment platter with four different kinds of breds from all different parts of africa and then 4 spreads ranging from hummous to olive oil to a harisssa type spread.

We settle upon chicken tagine for me from Northern Africa and DH has lamb. A good Pinotage is our choice for wine. Dh has his face painted by the paint lady. Live music is on and its great. Strolling musicians also pass through.

It never feels though too touristy and we enjoy it so much that on our way back from Botswana we stay at the Melrose again and eat at Moyo again before we head out to Singita.

We purchase a great CD from their cute little shop and the second time we come we buy 4 more! DH is going to be making a DVD of our trip and it will be set to music and he plans on using these CD's.

We return to our fab room and it's time for to reorganize all our clothes into duffle bags for our first safari!!!

We will store our hard sided luggage with the front desk so we may be off to Botswana, nice and light with just a few things we need. Then we will pick everything up when we go to Singita and leave our luggage then at the Federal Air Terminal. This system works out great.

And as it turns out, I got the packing thing down! Our duffles only weight 7kg each, we each have one and then a small duffle for the few extras that weighs 3kg.

All throughout the safari camps we were praised on how light we packed for safari! I'm proud of me!!

We enjoy our sleep in our most hip room and the next day breakfast is a wonderful big spread, we just enjoy all the fruit, cereals, etc.

At 8:30 we are picked up by a really great driver, Derek, who will be taking care of us with this transport to the airport, will pick us back up on June 11th to take us back to the Melrose Arch for 1 night and will then take us to the Federal Air terminal for our flight to Singita.

Derek is very charming and really helpful with our check ins.

So now up next... what most of you have been waiting for....

SAFARI! LITTLE VUMBURA IN THE LAST EDEN: BOTSWANA!

Till tomorrow.....

roadwarriorafrica

tripgirl

I finally got to read your report. I am sitting in the Kenya Airways doemstic lounge, heading to Mombasa for the day, and I am so jealous of you. Your trip to Cape Town sounds like something right up my alley. Bruce Roberston - we dined a few times at One. He was fantastic.

Le Quartier - I have spent many a week long breaks there in winter, and have enjoyed Franshoek and all the restaurants and wineries. (I wish I was there now).

I love your passion for food and wine and the people. your descriptions are so vivid and so real.

LV - I know what you got up to Can't wait for your view.

tripgirl

Hey RAW,

Jealous of me??? How about me jealous of you, you get to live in Africa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will begin my safari portion sometime today; family is coming in today for the July 4th celebrations.

Have to straighten the house out.........

Yes all. I will be back with the wonderful world of safari

But before I do that all I want to say( and for you old hats you might roll your eyes), but isn't safari: JUST THE COOLEST FREAKIN THING YOU CAN DO IN YOUR LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stay tuned...

cox2

Your trip report is outstanding! We leave on July 8 for a 26-day trip to S. Africa, Botswana, Zambia. Your report is so helpful. I can't wait to hear about Botswana!

tripgirl

ok....

June 8th: To Botswana: The Last Eden

Derek picks us up from the Melrose Arch and its off to Botswana. We'll return to Melrose again on June 11th.

Everything goes smooth with pick up and check in for Air Botswana.

The plane actually leaves on time.

We get to Maun but can't locate the Wilderness Safari rep, I actually pass right by her! She was not somehow expecting us until 3pm when I had a voucher that specifically says we land at 12:30.

Anyway, since they thought we were to arrive at 3pm, we are informed that our plane to Vumbura won't leave for awhile.

BUT another couple also arrives early who actually were supposed to arrive at 3 but they decide to take an earlier flight from joburg.

A very nice man from Sefofane, Chipa, actually rustles up a plane and so the four of leave for our camps much earlier than we thought might happen.

Here comes the fun part, at least for me. Everyone in my life and people who I first meet think I am an adventurous person because I own my own business, have written many books, am very outgoing, but truth be told, when it comes to my physical space, I am one of the most coward persons you will meet!

I don't even go on Ferris Wheels or Roller Coasters: EVER! No fear of heights though as long as I am pretty much enclosed in the space.

Well.. dear Fodorites.. I have never flown in a Cessna before! I know that might seem strange to all of you, but for me this a BIG deal!

When we are ready to board, I notice a plane on the runway starting up and it looks bigger than I thought it would be and I am excited that it is not small.

But alas.. this is not to be our plane. We continue down the walkway and ours is indeed a 4 seater plane.

The other couple we were with are going to Xigera and have been on safari before, so no fear of the plane.

Dh is excited; he loves Cessna flying

So here is me and my first time. The pilot is a sweetheart, Mohammed, and he knows that it is my first time so he is really terrific.

Anyway, up we go with Dh and I in the middle, the woman of the couple next ot the pilot and the husband in back of me.

I take a few deep breaths and up we go and initially I think I dug my hand into Dh's palm a bit hard, but then I was fine and began to relax.

It was actually fun and I enjoyed it; looking down over the Delta was amazing and now I have another experience to chalk up.

Mohammed used to pilot for SA Airways, and he is very good and so I feel confidence in him that allows me to enjoy.

Anywya, landing time it is and waiting for us is our guide, Rain.

Rain is a lovely young man of slight stature with a lovely smile. He used to work at Selinda for 3 yrs and how has been at LV for 6 mo and he enjoys LV tremendously.

As those of you who know LV, its about 40 minutes in the Land Rover to reach the camp, so off we go and along the way, Rain begins our look into seeing what might be there. As it is the middle of the afternoon, not much happening, except for a few lovely birds, impala galore, baboons.

But no matter, just being here is exciting. I leaned over to DH and said to him &quot; Do you think we are in heaven?&quot;

After 40 minutes or so we reach the jeep shed and then we have to boat it to the camp. This becomes over the next 3 days my favorite part. It's just so peaceful and calm to ride along the reeds to camp.

Greeting us in a glorious tones are the staff singing in Setswana a beautiful greeting and it is so special.

So many names and faces, I will try to remember them all over the next 3 days. We are led to the camp by one of the managers, a beautiful woman who goes by the name Ten. Gorgeous really, with golden hair of ringlets and glowing skin and a giant smile.

We are led to the library area of the camp and brought delicious fruit ice tea and some little pizzas and tarts as Ten explains all about the camp and what to expect over the next 3 days.

We have little time before Rain takes us out for our first game drive, so we quickly make our way to our tent, Tent 6, billed as the honeymoon suite. No, we are not on our honeymoon, but we requested this tent as we heard it had a king bed which we wanted and an outdoor clawfoot tu we did not end up using this, but it was something to see)

The tent is lovely with nice furnishings, a large indoor shower, plenty of storage space, a lovely big bed of course shrouded in netting, a nice desk with magazines and info about Botswana and more.

Since our tent is the furthest from the camp, we know in subsequent days to leave a bit of extra time when we need to be back in the main area.

We change and meet Rain in the open air lovely main lounge. Another person joins us, a nice travel agent from the UK who actually was born in Botswana. She is here on a fam trip, staying just one night. But Botswana is home to her, she knows it well.

Now here is how I would like to continue writing about our time at LV.

Since most of you are familiar with the schedule: up at 5:30, 6 breakfast, 6:30 to about 11: game drive, 11am brunch, 3:30 tea, 4p-7:30 game drive, 8pm dinner, then bed, I won't belabor each day as I have done throughout this report.

Rather I will give you categories: Sightings and Special Moments, Dining, The Staff, The other Guests, Final Thoughts.

So dear Fodorites.. my family is here from Florida and so we are off to dinner, the rest of the family due Wed and Thurs for the July 4th celebrations, so I will try to finish LV this week if I can, I know someone is off to safari July 8th and wanted me to get to it, so I am going to do my darndest to finish in between family and I still have to work this week!!!

Anyway.. stay tuned. I think you will enjoy this part tremendously. Funny things happened.