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Trip Report - Feb 2007 Victoria Falls and Botswana

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Trip Report - Feb 2007 Victoria Falls and Botswana

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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 12:08 PM
  #41  
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Johan,

If you copy and paste the entire link together it works... I dont know why it didnt all go together...

Private vehicles at Kwando were $150 per day, and at Chiefs I believe they were $350 per day.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 12:09 PM
  #42  
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Lynn, at the website of Sanctuary lodges they mention 350 USD a day. I don't know how much it is at Kwando (but it should be less).

Actually it's quite funny, 3 years ago I went to Chief's at a rate of +/- 250 USD a day in the green season. If I see the rates now they ask already 635 USD a day. It's still one of the best options in the green season but prices are definitely on the rise.

Like I mentioned in another threat, next year I'll gonna go like in the early days ... when I didn't have the money for the fancy camps.

Greetz,

Johan

 
Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 12:13 PM
  #43  
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Richard,

I tried but it still doesn't work for me.

Johan
 
Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 12:42 PM
  #44  
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Lets try this...

http://tinyurl.com/2dl4wx
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 01:11 PM
  #45  
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Feb 14th

I awoke to some baboons hanging out, outside my door. We went off on our drive, and within 15 minutes, we spotted a very shy leopard. She stayed in the grass, and soon bolted into the trees. To our surprise, a young leopard was spotted, and she wasnt nearly as shy. We actually watched her move around for about 20 minutes, and finally grew bored of us, and went into the trees. We than decided we wanted to see some Rhinos if possible, so off we went... it turned out they hadent seen the Rhinos in a while, so our chances werent great... I am sure you know where this is leading. We were driving along, I looked to the right as we passed some trees, and was like, RHINO... We backed up, and sure enough there were a couple of Rhino near us. Our guide called it in, and moved closer. As he did, we spooked them, and they ran into some dense trees. We followed and searched for them for about 20 minutes and than found a group of 7.... wow. We spent about 45 minutes with the Rhinos, and as we sat there, they came very close... the other vehicles found us, and we left them to their viewing. As we had found the leopards and Rhinos, we decided that we needed a big 5 game drive, so off we went... we found ellies, and buffalo in the same area.. as well as a bunch of general game. Our guide thought he knew where some lions were, so off we went. He was true to his word, and we soon found several lions relaxing... a truly great game drive... I just wish we had found the big "6" with wild dogs.

We returned for a nice lunch, and a little relaxation. Even though I was very tempted to use the computer and internet connection provided by the camp, I stayed true to my word to myself, and ignored the outside world. I relaxed with a good book, and enjoyed the afternoon.

We had a pair of guys from Spain join us for the afternoon drive, as well as a member of staff. The camp called us saying they saw something near camp, and that it might have been a wild dog. We took off on a wild journey, but unfortunately didnt find any dogs... I was laughing as I heard the two from Spain talking about our "loco" driver. We looked for, but didnt find, the Rhinos. We did have some excellent sightings of lions, including some lion sex. We also found some cheetahs, who were relaxing, but decided to pose for us in a tree.

After sundowner, we returned to camp for a boma... the food was great, and we stayed up and had a few drinks afterwords.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 02:11 PM
  #46  
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Lynn: THe cost of a Kwando private vehicle for high season 2007 is $275 per day. The price has gone up.....keeping in scheme with Botswana pricing........last year it was 200 per day.


Hari
 
Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 03:32 PM
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Seven rhinos and you spotted the first. Your big 5 days was amazing.

Thanks, Hari for the pricing.

The photo link did not work for me.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 06:36 PM
  #48  
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Yep...i couldnt get into the photo link.......look forward to seeing them
 
Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 07:03 PM
  #49  
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Richard,

What did you think of your guides at Sanctuary lodges? you did mention they dont hv trackers.....but, what about the quality of guiding?

Thanks,
hari
 
Old Mar 4th, 2007, 07:12 AM
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hmmm... the tinyurl doesnt work? It works for me...

Hari,

I did prefer the guiding at the Kwando camps a lot more. They were very knowledgable, and definitely knew the areas very well. I was amazed at how we picked up tracks and followed them to animals with the guide and tracker system.

There is nothing wrong with the A & K Sanctuary camps. They are well run, posh, and are would totally appeal to a select kind of traveler. It was kind of too "disneyland" for me... our drives almost seemed pre-planned. For the most part, we would find a sighting, take some pictures, and move on to the next. There was usually a vehicle ahead of us, and one behind us. I strongly suspected that they knew where these animals would be.

Kwando was much more of an adventure... go out, see what you can find, and do what you want. If I (or the group) wanted to stay with a sighting, than no problem, lets follow these Cheetah and see what they do. At Chiefs for instance, we came across some Cheetah, got a few pictures, and our guide starts to drive away... I was like, cant we stay and follow them to see if they go hunting... and he didnt seem to care what we wanted to do... his response was that other vehicles want to see the sighting, and that we are going to see the lions next... again like it was pre-planned. Other than when we were chasing after the Rhinos at Chiefs, we didnt follow tracks to sightings... and this was what I enjoyed the most at Kwando... the hunt for dogs, or cheetah, or lion.

Dont get me wrong... I enjoyed my stay at Chiefs, Baines, and Chobe... but if you ask me where I will go back, it will definitely be to Kwando (for more than 2 days per camp for sure), while I would say been there done that at the Sanctuary Camps, and look to go somewhere else... with Mombo being high on my list.

I hope my rambling makes sense...

Richard
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 10:43 AM
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Richard: that's good information on how game drive philosphies can be so different. With Chief's being in Moremi they are also limited to established tracks I think, is that correct? It makes it hard to follow a cheetah like you can in Kwando where you are allowed to drive wherever it may go.

As for your photo link, I think most of us had the same problem the first time we posted photos. Your link is tied to your login so it works for you and no one else. What you need to do is pick Share your album and send it to your email address. When you get the message click on it and it will take you into the album. Copy the url at that point and then give it to us and it should work.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 10:49 AM
  #52  
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Richard,

Can you remember who the guides were at Chief's?

When I was there in 2004/2005 it wasn't like that. But I don't know who's around at the moment ... I liked Brown, head guide at Chief's very much but he left around 06/2005.

On the other hand, some of the guides working for Kwando are among the best I've worked with so ...

 
Old Mar 4th, 2007, 11:03 AM
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Thanks PB.. try this http://tinyurl.com/2ppvsp

At Chiefs / Baines they were allowed to offroad if they were following tracks or an animal of the larger nature... lions, dogs, cheetah, leopard, etc... so we were able to follow any of these, but for the most part we didnt. We had great game viewing, but it was more of a daily checklist to find as many species as possible... maybe thats what most people want... rushing from one sighting to another. For me I enjoyed time just watching the various animals and how they interacted with each other. My favourite day was the one where we spent almost the whole day with wild dogs just following them as they moved around and hunted. At Sanctuary we really werent asked what we wanted to see / do... for the most part our guides decided for us... go to sighting, take some pictures, than move on. At Kwando, there was more interaction with the guides and clients as to what "they" wanted to do. Even though I was in a private vehicle and could make my own decisions, many times I heard the other guide asking his vehicle what they wanted to do. Several times we would split up to best identify opportunites... we will follow the cheetah, you the leopard, and Charles the lions... if something interesting happens, than all would be made aware. I really liked that, and it definitely made my viewing experiences that much better...

Richard
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 11:22 AM
  #54  
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Richard,

The link worked ... and I especially liked some of your cheetah pictures.

I fully understand what you mean by the difference between Kwando and Sanctuary. Actually having to deal with a situation like you experienced now at Sanctuary would drive me crazy ... to avoid such situations I make use of private vehicles. It's expensive but on the other hand going on safari is expensive anyway and wildlife photography is my passion so ...

Greetings,

Johan
 
Old Mar 4th, 2007, 02:18 PM
  #55  
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Feb 15th

I decided to take a well deserved break this morning, and sleep in, and miss the morning game drive. I actually slept in till about 8 am when the baboons outside my suite decided that I should wake up. I took my time getting up, got ready, and packed. I joined the group for breakfast... and after being told by our driver that I missed a lot of great game sightings... was told the truth that they really didnt see anything. It didnt really matter, as I enjoyed my sleep.

I was asked if I didnt mind checking out of the room, so they could prepare it for the next guests as the camp was going to be full. I was already packed, so it was easy to transfer everything out of my room. I relaxed in the lounge, and really enjoyed a relaxing 3 hours as I went through many of the African Geographic magazines, and enjoying a few Windhoek bevvys. At about 2 30 I was picked up for my transfer to Baines. I enjoyed my times at Chiefs, and if I ever talk my parents into going on a safari, feel it would be the perfect camp for them.

The flight to Baines was only about 20 minutes. My driver picked me up, and told me it was about 50 minutes to camp. He than told me I may miss the evening game drive, as our timing would be tight. I was like, get on it, im not fragile, lets goooo. I am not sure if he was kidding with me, but he said we take short cut, and it seemed like we got there in about 35 minutes. I understand we passed Stanleys camp on the way to Baines. Baines was a nice camp with only 5 huts. When we got there, one of the vehicles had the largest camera I have ever seen on a tripod. I was like... who's that? It turned out that there were a serious camera couple there, and that they had a private vehicle. I checked in, and was taken to my cabin. It is very nice, and they explained the option of "sleeping under the stars"... As I am not a huge fan of spiders, I wisely decided to stay in. There were several large spiders in my room, and while I knew they were harmless, asked that they be removed. I think the staff had some fun with that one... big guy afraid of spiders... we all had some laughs.

I met 2 other couples who were currently at the camp. I waited about 5 seconds till I asked about the camera. They laughed and said it was just a hobbey, and that they come once or twice a year to Africa from Spain. I joined the other couple in our vehicle, and we were off... we saw some of the usual game, and we followed the same road I went in on, and passed the air strip. We found some lions, cheetah, and a nice herd of ellies. After our sundowner, we went for a night drive. A nice thing here is that it is possible, where it wasnt at Chiefs. We spotted some lions, and followed them for a while. It was pretty dark, but we heard some buffalo, and the lions went on the hunt. They chased for a bit, but lost the kill. We went back to camp, and had a late dinner, followed by bed.

Feb 16th

Things are a little different here. We woke up a little later, and had breakfast. We followed that with a game drive... following the same path as we had the previous day. We didnt see a lot for most of the morning, but just when we were about to turn around, some lions were spotted. We found a pride of about 9, with 3 young ones. We didnt stay with them long, and soon went back to camp. We had a light lunch, and a few windhoeks. I read for a while, and had a short snooze.

We were joined by a young italian couple for our evening game drive. We followed the same trail as before and found the same lion pride from the morning. We stayed with them for about 30 minutes, and while they looked hungry, our guide wanted to go look around. We left the lions and didnt see much other game. As before, I wish we had stayed with the lions. We had our sundowners, and followed with a night drive to camp. We did have one nice sighting for about 5 minutes of an aarwolf... I hadnt seen one of them before. Dinner was good. It was explained to me that they couldnt do the Ellie encounter the next morning, that the person in charge would be back for a couple of days. I was also going to transfer to Chobe fairly early at 9 am, so would miss the morning game drive.

Feb 17th

I awoke early, packed, and joined the group for breakfast. After saying goodbye to everyone else, I left for my transfer to Chobe. We stopped by Stanleys Camp on the way to pick up a worker who was also on my flight, and they showed me around. Stanleys was bigger than Baines, with 8 or 9 chalets. They were also zipper entrances versus doors, so didnt look as fancy. We made it to the airstrip, and the 2 hour flight to Chobe.

Chobe Chilwero was not far from the airport, and it looked very posh. After a brief tour, I sat down for my camp briefing. It was kind of funny when they brought me a windhoek without being asked for. I was told that they keep a file on all their guest and their likes and dislikes. They were very apologetic that my room wasnt ready, so I sat and had a beer on the patio. I was told there was a full house that night.... 23 or so people. When I got to my room, I was like wowww. It was very large, air conditioned, and very nice and private. I also like champagne, and for some reason there was a bottle there for me, which my guide opened. Not wanting to let it waste, I changed, moved out to the patio, and relaxed in the sun for a couple of hours. The food at Chobe is excellent, and they had a huge selection for brunch. After some relaxation, it was time for our boat ride. As I hadnt done a lot of water activities to date, I was looking forward to this. We went out on the river, and had a nice ride, with sightings of ellies, crocs, and hippos. We had a sundowner on the water, and returned to camp at sundown. It was around 6 30, and dinner wasnt until 8. I got back to my room, and there was a bath drawn, with candles, and rose petals... would have been very romantic for a couple. Beside the tub was another bottle of champagne. By this time, I was enjoying my last night, and went for dinner. Dinner was excellent, and I got be around 10 pm.

Feb 18th

My transfer to Livingstone was for 9 am. I got up, did a little shopping, and had a nice breakfast. There were 3 of us, with a 90 minute road transfer to LVI. My impression of Chobe were good... it was an excellent post safari stop. The water activities were great, and for those who like the comforts like air conditioning, this is the place. Another place my parents would really enjoy.

We transfered to LVI, had no problems, and I relaxed on the flight to JNB. I did some final shopping at JNB, relaxed in the BA lounge, and very much enjoyed the first class flight to London. I was worried that I had to check out, and check in, and that I had 2 carry on bags. No one said anything to me, and I had an easy flight back to Canada.

An amazing time... thank you to everyone for your help and advice in planning this trip.

THE END

Now time to plan my next trip... Kwando again with a couple SA camps I think...
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 02:53 PM
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Richard,

My husband and I are also going to Chobe Chilwero, Baines and Chiefs plus four nights in and around Selinda walking trails and Zib. Did you get your visa on arrival in Zimbabwe? If so was it easy and did you need photos for the visa?
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 03:02 PM
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Great report. You mentioned there was no elephant walk at Baines. Had you planned on doing one? Good job with the aardwolf.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 03:10 PM
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Georgie,

I got my visa at the Zambia / Zim border. No picture needed, and it just took a couple of minutes.

Atravelynn,

I had booked the ellie encounter, and actually changed my itinerary around the date they were supposed to start back up after their annual month off. Unfortunately, this changed at the end, and they didnt start the encounter up until a couple of days later.

Richard
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 04:33 PM
  #59  
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Richard,

Enjoyed the pictures....thank you. Lots of nice pics.

The two cheetah towards the end...one on a termite mound and the other by it's side. Where was that?

I also noticed a radio-collared lioness....was that at lagoon or lebala, by any chance? The reason i ask, i think i may have seen her last year....


Rgds,
Hari
 
Old Mar 4th, 2007, 04:40 PM
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Hi Hari,

The 2 cheetah were the 2 we followed for a kill at Lebala. They are the brothers that hang around there...

The lioness with the collar was at lagoon... that is the one who was killing the baby baboons in a tree... I think I have some better pictures on the other disk... will take a look.

Richard
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