Trip Report: Cape Town/Mala Mala, Vic Falls, Kenya, Rwanda/gorillas
Sep 10th, 2008, 01:48 AM
#21
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Your trip is simply mesmerizing!!!We are a family of 2 adults and 2 children, planning to visit kenya after covering cape town and garden route. We will be in Kenya from 13th Oct for 4 nights. We were planning to visit Amboseli for 1 night, Masai Mara for 2 nights and Lake Nakuru for 1 night. Our Kenya agent advised us not to waste time commuting, and rather spend 3 night in masai mara and 1 night in lake nakuru to get the max benefit of the migration in the rift valley. Please suggest what we should do?
Sep 10th, 2008, 03:19 PM
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Ooooh, tough question, Viksy! I'm inclined to agree with the Kenyan agent; with only 4 nights, you might be better off with a maximum of 2 locations.
Are you driving or flying between locations? If driving, that could really eat up time; even with flying, to get from Amboseli to the Masai Mara we had to transit Nairobi. We REALLY liked Amboseli, but I should note that seeing Kili is NOT a sure thing at all.
We didn't go to Lake Nakuru, but I would have loved to see the flamingos. Maybe Lake Nakuru makes for a more coherent Migration experience? Perhaps others can comment....
Are you driving or flying between locations? If driving, that could really eat up time; even with flying, to get from Amboseli to the Masai Mara we had to transit Nairobi. We REALLY liked Amboseli, but I should note that seeing Kili is NOT a sure thing at all.
We didn't go to Lake Nakuru, but I would have loved to see the flamingos. Maybe Lake Nakuru makes for a more coherent Migration experience? Perhaps others can comment....
Sep 10th, 2008, 05:24 PM
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Skiburnette,
Even if you had taken a picture of the hissing impalas, the hissing would be lost.
Viksy,
What are your goals? If a shot at Kili is important or you are a real ele fan, then Amboseli makes sense. If you'd like to see flamingos on the lake, though the flock size cannot be guaranteed and have a reasonable chance at rhino then Nakuru is a good stop. Otherwise, I'd just go to the Mara.
Even if you had taken a picture of the hissing impalas, the hissing would be lost.
Viksy,
What are your goals? If a shot at Kili is important or you are a real ele fan, then Amboseli makes sense. If you'd like to see flamingos on the lake, though the flock size cannot be guaranteed and have a reasonable chance at rhino then Nakuru is a good stop. Otherwise, I'd just go to the Mara.
Sep 11th, 2008, 07:15 AM
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THE MAGNIFICENT SECOND TREK
The next day Arthur succeeded in getting us assigned to the group led by Francois, the senior guide who was once Diane Fossey’s porter. We trekkers are all “of a certain age” – and I’m reassured because I’ve read that Francois, after 25 years, doesn’t do the distant treks.
But during our briefing Francois mentioned that we’d climb about two hours after we entered the park – was he perhaps kidding us? (He wasn’t!) We’re assigned to Hirwa group, which is usually in the low forests – but that day, as is the case about once every other year, they were high up a ravine. After yesterday’s trek I’d said I could easily do something more strenuous; I should be careful what I wish for!
It was a good 30 minutes to cross the field to the park wall, where we found the steps up to the stone fence “carpeted” with pieces of sod. Then it was uphill, primarily through bamboo forests; you quickly learned to grab the green bamboo, not the brown stalks that promptly give way in your hand. Francois was a master of showing us things along the way: cutting open bamboo to find the tender center, having us sample forest celery, draping our heads with clinging greenery. His portrayal of a silverback crashing about, drunk on too much bamboo, was priceless! One of our group was struggling – of course, it was the one person who said they didn’t need a porter! But Francois went to the psychologically-difficult back, took them by the hand, and brought them up to the front…continually urging them up the hillside.
Most of the porters were former poachers, who have learned that they can make money by protecting, rather than killing, the gorillas. They were all dressed in heavy blue cotton uniforms, Wellies, and often a jacket on top. In contrast, DH and I were wearing only long-sleeved shirts and rain pants over our trousers, certain we would generate more than enough heat in the climb. (The rain pants were great protection against the mud, and we noticed that even the guides don them when we got close to the gorillas). The pace was steadily upward – on and on and on…
DH kept providing altimeter readings; we started just above 8000 feet, eventually reaching the gorillas at 9700 feet! As it got steeper my porter gave me a firm hand to hold, just to keep up the pace. When it really got steep, I just followed in his footsteps: where his foot was, my foot went. There was a big ravine to our left, but I just kept concentrating on footwork!
AT LAST, we met the trackers; we were almost there….the operative word was “almost.” We left our packs but were told to keep our walking sticks? We soon discovered why: we had to go straight down a steep bank, and the porters handed us from one to another. At one point the only solution was to slide on our butts. Then we handed over our sticks and the porters stayed behind; we headed just a short way laterally across the ravine...and there was the silverback, several females and a group of babies!
The ravine was narrow and we were surely closer that the requisite 7 meters…unless maybe you counted vertical distance up the ravine! But there was no real choice…not that we minded! The babies were pulling bamboo apart to find the tender centers; one was doing somersaults down the hill in front of us! Then there was a ruckus up the hill, sounding like two females squabbling? The silverback headed up the hill to investigate; we couldn’t see him, but some chest pounding ensued and the females fell silent. The remaining females and babies headed up the ravine; once they cleared the area, we followed. Even though it’s uphill, the going was a bit easier because we had thick vines to grab.
Meanwhile Francois was making a wide range of “gorilla sounds” to communicate with them….the “all’s well” sound we’d heard before, one that he interpreted as “try this; it’s tasty,” and a spitting sound the babies seemed to like. DH got some great photos of the silverback eating, his mouth going open, close, open, close…
Suddenly we heard rustling BEHIND us!? We thought all the gorillas were above us, but here came two females and a baby! Francois was directing us: “you three move back,” you two sit down,” “don’t take photos right now.” One female came and sat briefly in the center of our group; I had the chance to look into her beautiful brown eyes (yes, you can look them in the eye)…and she looked back in my direction. It was more of a survey; I can’t say there was any engagement….and then she moved off. Then we cleared a path for the second female to head straight up the center toward the silverback; but she wanted to go her own way, thanks very much! And she momentarily brushed against my nylon pants leg as she headed off to the right.
All too soon our magical hour was up; this time the gorillas did not seem to anticipate our departure, perhaps proof that we didn’t intervene too much in their activities? DH joking asked where the helicopter would pick us up – didn’t we wish! It probably took ½ hour to go back down the ravine and then laterally back to our packs. Where before we’d slid downhill, the porters had to give us a butt boost up the slope.
After a much-needed water break, it was 2 hours hiking back down the hills. This was less effort than going uphill, but it was definitely hard on the knees and ankles. We cheered as we climbed back over the park wall, but it was another 20 minutes across the fields. I don’t think I could have made the trip without my porter; we parted with big hugs and a double tip! At 3:00 we were the next-to-last group returning to Park HQ; only the Susa group was out longer (until 5:00 pm).
I will say the Gorillas Nest was good about letting us shower and finish packing long after “check out” time – and offered to fix us a simple late lunch…we opted for beers instead, before making the drive back to Kigali and the creature comforts of the Kigali Serena. A nice dinner – and a healthy dose of Aleve – eased our aches and pains!
The next morning was the start of the long trip home. We toured the Genocide Museum – for me, the most moving parts were the video accounts of the survivors, tinged with a mixture of relief and remorse that they survived (perhaps simply through happenstance) when other family members or friends did not. Arthur never said whether he is Tutsi or Hutu….and (though we suspect Tutsi) we didn’t ask – he simply said they must try to be one people. He also mentioned that he will become formally engaged in October; he must then supply the “bride price,” traditionally two cows. What does a cow costs? – the going rate is about $150 per cow….our tip should help considerably! Usually the bride’s parents give the cows to the couple, so we were investing in Arthur’s future.
We stopped at “Bourbon Coffee” to buy Rwandan coffee beans for presents; the Starbucks-like venue contrasted sharply with the modest houses tumbling down the valley outside the windows. The scene at the airport was predictably chaotic, but all our fellow trekkers from yesterday were also there. But the two couples from San Diego suddenly had their luggage put BACK on a cart, and they were directed to the Kenya Airways office on the Mezzanine above….not a good sign. Rumor in the departure lounge said that the plane arriving this day was smaller than usual and some people have been bumped – we hope our fellow trekkers are just on another flight, but we never saw them again. We were simply grateful that all our arrangements with Origins (in Nairobi) and, through them, with Primate (in Rwanda) were flawless.
Rosemarie met us in Nairobi for the last time and took us to dinner at a Brazilian churrascuría near the airport – the format was not unlike the Carnivore restaurant: non-stop grilled meats brought to your table until you say “stop!” As before, the crocodile was delicious….but I don’t need to try (very chewy) camel again! We didn’t really need to eat another time; we’d been eating non-stop for three weeks! But it was good entertainment – far superior to a six-hour wait in the Nairobi airport.
Back at the airport we entered Security Hell – the airport staff insisted on unpacking DH’s duffle because of some camera cables; then BA (when I protested that we’d just unpacked DH’s duffle) dug through the contents of mine. Then once we got to the gate there were two separate personal security checkpoints…just far enough apart that you’d righted yourself, only to have to take everything off again.
London: like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, we felt like we were “back in Kansas again!” The goods in the airport stores glittered! After a shower and change of clothes in the Arrivals Lounge, we were ready to tackle the last leg of the homeward trip. And, while our dog may not be a wild animal, we were glad to get home to see her!
The next day Arthur succeeded in getting us assigned to the group led by Francois, the senior guide who was once Diane Fossey’s porter. We trekkers are all “of a certain age” – and I’m reassured because I’ve read that Francois, after 25 years, doesn’t do the distant treks.
But during our briefing Francois mentioned that we’d climb about two hours after we entered the park – was he perhaps kidding us? (He wasn’t!) We’re assigned to Hirwa group, which is usually in the low forests – but that day, as is the case about once every other year, they were high up a ravine. After yesterday’s trek I’d said I could easily do something more strenuous; I should be careful what I wish for!
It was a good 30 minutes to cross the field to the park wall, where we found the steps up to the stone fence “carpeted” with pieces of sod. Then it was uphill, primarily through bamboo forests; you quickly learned to grab the green bamboo, not the brown stalks that promptly give way in your hand. Francois was a master of showing us things along the way: cutting open bamboo to find the tender center, having us sample forest celery, draping our heads with clinging greenery. His portrayal of a silverback crashing about, drunk on too much bamboo, was priceless! One of our group was struggling – of course, it was the one person who said they didn’t need a porter! But Francois went to the psychologically-difficult back, took them by the hand, and brought them up to the front…continually urging them up the hillside.
Most of the porters were former poachers, who have learned that they can make money by protecting, rather than killing, the gorillas. They were all dressed in heavy blue cotton uniforms, Wellies, and often a jacket on top. In contrast, DH and I were wearing only long-sleeved shirts and rain pants over our trousers, certain we would generate more than enough heat in the climb. (The rain pants were great protection against the mud, and we noticed that even the guides don them when we got close to the gorillas). The pace was steadily upward – on and on and on…
DH kept providing altimeter readings; we started just above 8000 feet, eventually reaching the gorillas at 9700 feet! As it got steeper my porter gave me a firm hand to hold, just to keep up the pace. When it really got steep, I just followed in his footsteps: where his foot was, my foot went. There was a big ravine to our left, but I just kept concentrating on footwork!
AT LAST, we met the trackers; we were almost there….the operative word was “almost.” We left our packs but were told to keep our walking sticks? We soon discovered why: we had to go straight down a steep bank, and the porters handed us from one to another. At one point the only solution was to slide on our butts. Then we handed over our sticks and the porters stayed behind; we headed just a short way laterally across the ravine...and there was the silverback, several females and a group of babies!
The ravine was narrow and we were surely closer that the requisite 7 meters…unless maybe you counted vertical distance up the ravine! But there was no real choice…not that we minded! The babies were pulling bamboo apart to find the tender centers; one was doing somersaults down the hill in front of us! Then there was a ruckus up the hill, sounding like two females squabbling? The silverback headed up the hill to investigate; we couldn’t see him, but some chest pounding ensued and the females fell silent. The remaining females and babies headed up the ravine; once they cleared the area, we followed. Even though it’s uphill, the going was a bit easier because we had thick vines to grab.
Meanwhile Francois was making a wide range of “gorilla sounds” to communicate with them….the “all’s well” sound we’d heard before, one that he interpreted as “try this; it’s tasty,” and a spitting sound the babies seemed to like. DH got some great photos of the silverback eating, his mouth going open, close, open, close…
Suddenly we heard rustling BEHIND us!? We thought all the gorillas were above us, but here came two females and a baby! Francois was directing us: “you three move back,” you two sit down,” “don’t take photos right now.” One female came and sat briefly in the center of our group; I had the chance to look into her beautiful brown eyes (yes, you can look them in the eye)…and she looked back in my direction. It was more of a survey; I can’t say there was any engagement….and then she moved off. Then we cleared a path for the second female to head straight up the center toward the silverback; but she wanted to go her own way, thanks very much! And she momentarily brushed against my nylon pants leg as she headed off to the right.
All too soon our magical hour was up; this time the gorillas did not seem to anticipate our departure, perhaps proof that we didn’t intervene too much in their activities? DH joking asked where the helicopter would pick us up – didn’t we wish! It probably took ½ hour to go back down the ravine and then laterally back to our packs. Where before we’d slid downhill, the porters had to give us a butt boost up the slope.
After a much-needed water break, it was 2 hours hiking back down the hills. This was less effort than going uphill, but it was definitely hard on the knees and ankles. We cheered as we climbed back over the park wall, but it was another 20 minutes across the fields. I don’t think I could have made the trip without my porter; we parted with big hugs and a double tip! At 3:00 we were the next-to-last group returning to Park HQ; only the Susa group was out longer (until 5:00 pm).
I will say the Gorillas Nest was good about letting us shower and finish packing long after “check out” time – and offered to fix us a simple late lunch…we opted for beers instead, before making the drive back to Kigali and the creature comforts of the Kigali Serena. A nice dinner – and a healthy dose of Aleve – eased our aches and pains!
The next morning was the start of the long trip home. We toured the Genocide Museum – for me, the most moving parts were the video accounts of the survivors, tinged with a mixture of relief and remorse that they survived (perhaps simply through happenstance) when other family members or friends did not. Arthur never said whether he is Tutsi or Hutu….and (though we suspect Tutsi) we didn’t ask – he simply said they must try to be one people. He also mentioned that he will become formally engaged in October; he must then supply the “bride price,” traditionally two cows. What does a cow costs? – the going rate is about $150 per cow….our tip should help considerably! Usually the bride’s parents give the cows to the couple, so we were investing in Arthur’s future.
We stopped at “Bourbon Coffee” to buy Rwandan coffee beans for presents; the Starbucks-like venue contrasted sharply with the modest houses tumbling down the valley outside the windows. The scene at the airport was predictably chaotic, but all our fellow trekkers from yesterday were also there. But the two couples from San Diego suddenly had their luggage put BACK on a cart, and they were directed to the Kenya Airways office on the Mezzanine above….not a good sign. Rumor in the departure lounge said that the plane arriving this day was smaller than usual and some people have been bumped – we hope our fellow trekkers are just on another flight, but we never saw them again. We were simply grateful that all our arrangements with Origins (in Nairobi) and, through them, with Primate (in Rwanda) were flawless.
Rosemarie met us in Nairobi for the last time and took us to dinner at a Brazilian churrascuría near the airport – the format was not unlike the Carnivore restaurant: non-stop grilled meats brought to your table until you say “stop!” As before, the crocodile was delicious….but I don’t need to try (very chewy) camel again! We didn’t really need to eat another time; we’d been eating non-stop for three weeks! But it was good entertainment – far superior to a six-hour wait in the Nairobi airport.
Back at the airport we entered Security Hell – the airport staff insisted on unpacking DH’s duffle because of some camera cables; then BA (when I protested that we’d just unpacked DH’s duffle) dug through the contents of mine. Then once we got to the gate there were two separate personal security checkpoints…just far enough apart that you’d righted yourself, only to have to take everything off again.
London: like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, we felt like we were “back in Kansas again!” The goods in the airport stores glittered! After a shower and change of clothes in the Arrivals Lounge, we were ready to tackle the last leg of the homeward trip. And, while our dog may not be a wild animal, we were glad to get home to see her!
Sep 11th, 2008, 07:49 AM
#25
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For reference, here is our itinerary:
8/3 evening departure from Washington on BA
8/4 transit London; lunch in city
8/5 Cape Town; Cape Grace Hotel; city bus tour
8/6 Cape Town; Winelands tour (Vineyard Ventures)
8/7 Cape Town; Peninsula tour
8/8 transfer from Cape Town, via Helspruit, to Mala Mala Main Camp (South African Airlink/private charter)
8/9-10 Mala Mala; game drives
8/11 transfer from Mala Mala, via Helspruit and Johannesburg, to Victoria Falls/Zimbabwe (private charter/SA Airlink/BA Comair); Victoria Falls Hotel. Private tour of Falls.
8/12 Victoria Falls; elephant back safari and sunset cruise
8/13 morning helicopter flight; transfer to Johannesburg (BA Comair); Airport Sun Intercontinental Hotel
8/14 transfer to Nairobi (South African Airways); Norfolk Hotel
8/15 early AM transfer to Amboseli (Safarilink); Tortilis Camp; game drives
8/16 Tortilis Camp; game drives (bush breakfast, village visit, sundowners)
8/17 AM transfer to Nairobi/Masai Mara (Safarilink); Mara Explorer Camp
8/18-19 Mara Explorer Camp; game drives
8/20 transfer to Nairobi (Safarilink); Giraffe Manor; visit to Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
8/21 transfer to Kigali (Kenya Airways); road transfer to Gorillas Nest Lodge
8/22 Gorilla's Nest Lodge; 1st gorilla trek
8/23 2nd gorilla trek; road transfer to Kigali; Kigali Serena Hotel
8/24 Genocide Museum tour; transfer to Nairobi (Kenya Airways); dinner at Brazilian restaurant; late evening flight (BA) departing Nairobi
8/25 transit London; arrive home¡ end of adventure
8/3 evening departure from Washington on BA
8/4 transit London; lunch in city
8/5 Cape Town; Cape Grace Hotel; city bus tour
8/6 Cape Town; Winelands tour (Vineyard Ventures)
8/7 Cape Town; Peninsula tour
8/8 transfer from Cape Town, via Helspruit, to Mala Mala Main Camp (South African Airlink/private charter)
8/9-10 Mala Mala; game drives
8/11 transfer from Mala Mala, via Helspruit and Johannesburg, to Victoria Falls/Zimbabwe (private charter/SA Airlink/BA Comair); Victoria Falls Hotel. Private tour of Falls.
8/12 Victoria Falls; elephant back safari and sunset cruise
8/13 morning helicopter flight; transfer to Johannesburg (BA Comair); Airport Sun Intercontinental Hotel
8/14 transfer to Nairobi (South African Airways); Norfolk Hotel
8/15 early AM transfer to Amboseli (Safarilink); Tortilis Camp; game drives
8/16 Tortilis Camp; game drives (bush breakfast, village visit, sundowners)
8/17 AM transfer to Nairobi/Masai Mara (Safarilink); Mara Explorer Camp
8/18-19 Mara Explorer Camp; game drives
8/20 transfer to Nairobi (Safarilink); Giraffe Manor; visit to Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
8/21 transfer to Kigali (Kenya Airways); road transfer to Gorillas Nest Lodge
8/22 Gorilla's Nest Lodge; 1st gorilla trek
8/23 2nd gorilla trek; road transfer to Kigali; Kigali Serena Hotel
8/24 Genocide Museum tour; transfer to Nairobi (Kenya Airways); dinner at Brazilian restaurant; late evening flight (BA) departing Nairobi
8/25 transit London; arrive home¡ end of adventure
Sep 11th, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Thank you so much for your report! And what a thrilling conclusion with that second gorilla trek -- my heart was pounding with excitement as I read it (our own gorilla trip is just over a month away). Although any time spent with the gorillas would be wonderful, I think your experiences perfectly illustrated why it's worth doing two treks, if possible.
Thanks, too, for posting your full itinerary. That should be helpful for others considering a Big African Highlights multi-country sort of trip. There are so many choices, it must be really hard to plan something like this!
Thanks, too, for posting your full itinerary. That should be helpful for others considering a Big African Highlights multi-country sort of trip. There are so many choices, it must be really hard to plan something like this!
Sep 11th, 2008, 12:34 PM
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I'm so excited for you! If you are doing two treks and have the stamina, I'd say to go for the Susa group. The 2nd day was about my limit -- but maybe a tough trek makes you appreciate the gorillas (once you get there) all that much more?! If you get the chance, I'd highly recommend Francois for the other day; he usually leads the Sabyinyo, Hirwa or Kwitonda treks that are SUPPOSEDLY closer -- but he's a wonderful guide!! And be sure to hire a porter -- even if you don't need much help, it's good to give someone employment.
In planning our trip I think we had a measure of beginner's luck -- the longer you read the forum, the more you learn about other great possibilities!
In planning our trip I think we had a measure of beginner's luck -- the longer you read the forum, the more you learn about other great possibilities!
Sep 11th, 2008, 01:51 PM
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Thanks, Skibumette. I'm not sure we'll have much choice (about which gorilla group or guide)... we're going with a big group (about 20 people) to do some volunteer projects in Uganda, with the Rwanda gorillas at the end of he trip. I know we'll be split into smaller groups of 8 for the gorillas, so maybe some of us will be assigned to one of the "hard hike" groups -- I wouldn't mind! Yes, we're doing 2 gorilla treks, and I think there's a smaller bunch of us signed up for the second day. We'll definitely hire a porter, for the exact reason you mentioned (giving someone a job). I can't wait, and reading your report about it was a real treat!
Sep 12th, 2008, 02:33 PM
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You paid for your easy hike the next day. But when you looked into that female gorilla's eyes, I'm sure you forgot all about the climb and mud, etc.
Your altitude readings will be helpful for people wondering how high up you go.
Interesting comment on the struggling straggler, the one who DIDN'T get a porter. A whopping 10 bucks and more importantly an employment, there's no reason not to get a porter. Nobody gives you macho (or fitness) points for declining one.
It may be worth the $500 permit fee to watch Francois impersonate (if that's the word) a drunk gorilla. Just thinking of the alcohol content in a batch bamboo juice takes my breath away.
Your altitude readings will be helpful for people wondering how high up you go.
Interesting comment on the struggling straggler, the one who DIDN'T get a porter. A whopping 10 bucks and more importantly an employment, there's no reason not to get a porter. Nobody gives you macho (or fitness) points for declining one.
It may be worth the $500 permit fee to watch Francois impersonate (if that's the word) a drunk gorilla. Just thinking of the alcohol content in a batch bamboo juice takes my breath away.
Sep 12th, 2008, 05:05 PM
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What a wonderful second trek skibummete. I was thinking the same thing as Lynn about your first trek. While perhaps not the awe inspiring moment you'd hoped for, it still must have been wonderful. Then, of course I continued on and read about your second trek. What an amazing experience. That's about as up-close-and-personal as you can get. I can't wait to see your photos. I agree with MDK, that your experiences really highlight why a second trek, if possible, is so worthwhile.
I've read so many great things about Francoise. I hope I get him for one of my treks next spring. Am I correct that you can't request a guide until you actually arrive at park HQ?
What a marvelous trip you had. Such a fantastic itinerary, and especially for a first trip. And you had such great sightings everywhere.
Great report. I was sorry to see it end, as I am living vicariously at the moment. Thank you.
I've read so many great things about Francoise. I hope I get him for one of my treks next spring. Am I correct that you can't request a guide until you actually arrive at park HQ?
What a marvelous trip you had. Such a fantastic itinerary, and especially for a first trip. And you had such great sightings everywhere.
Great report. I was sorry to see it end, as I am living vicariously at the moment. Thank you.
Sep 12th, 2008, 05:52 PM
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I'm going through my 2nd sadness that that trip is over -- first after the actual trip and now after finishing the trip report! <sigh> But the photos will keep me busy for another couple of weeks! ;-)
Dana, the best way to request a particular group or guide is to have your driver/tour guide do it for you; they seem to know all the local players. (Interstingly, we never actually saw the much vaunted permits; our driver simply took us to the check-in desk and had us sign in.)
The first morning another group had already spoken for Francois, but my driver did make a point of introducing DH and me to him. The 2nd day we did get his group -- I give Arthur, our driver, the credit. I also think it helps to give your driver some idea of your capabilities -- I think the fact that I'd said to him (after the first day) that the trek wasn't hard provided reassurance that I could handle the longer distances the 2nd day?.
Dana, the best way to request a particular group or guide is to have your driver/tour guide do it for you; they seem to know all the local players. (Interstingly, we never actually saw the much vaunted permits; our driver simply took us to the check-in desk and had us sign in.)
The first morning another group had already spoken for Francois, but my driver did make a point of introducing DH and me to him. The 2nd day we did get his group -- I give Arthur, our driver, the credit. I also think it helps to give your driver some idea of your capabilities -- I think the fact that I'd said to him (after the first day) that the trek wasn't hard provided reassurance that I could handle the longer distances the 2nd day?.
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