atravelynn

Moral of your second DW and comfort break tale--pay attention to the crowned plovers!

Our Tracker, John, encountered a hyena while attending to his business on a breakfast stop at Mala Mala. A peeping Tom hyena appears to be on the loose at Mala Mala.

How unusual you had 3 close encounters in one trip!

napamatt

Next stop Singita.

Due to a screw up in arrangements we had a private transfer rather than MM doing it for us. This was good in that we saw the fence line right round the SSGR, but bad in that it took about 85 minutes rather than the 50 direct from MM.

Boulders is a lovely lodge, very opulent and designer African. Our greeting and orientation left me a bit worried, the emphasis was definitely on all the lodge activities of which game drives were just one, and we got the distinct impression that they weouldn't be very long either. But we had resolved to just enjoy Singita for what it was, having had 6 good days at MM. Of course, for the first time in a long time we would have strangers as vehicle mates, another concern.

It turned out not to be an issue as far as game drives were concerned, the other two couples were travelling together and of 4 game drives shared with us we saw them intermittently.
M1 - 4 drives
W1 - 3 drives
M2 - 2 drives
W2 - 1 drive

We asked our ranger if this was common and he was very diplomatic and said not really. However in our two days we saw more instances of people skipping drives than actually going on them.

Once in the vehicle on our first drive we got the chance to compare the tracker at the front versus the back for the first time.

I'm sure there will be disagreements, but the tracker did not find any more tracks than the MM tracker would at the back, and missed a significant number of sightings, including Reedbuck, a pretty rare sighting in SSGR. Sitting at the back, we were really able to spot a lot of things missed by both ranger and guide, we also are very experienced and after 6 days, really had our eyes dialed in. A first timer would have missed lots of good sightings, like the Reedbuck, Warthogs, Rhino and a Leopard.

Throughout our stay, the tracker did not have much luck finding spoor, so we were unable to judge his tracking ability. Of course any such judgement would be ludicrous given our level of knowledge anyway. But on the whole, I think I do prefer the tracker higher up, they do tend to spot more stuff than us mere mortals.

Our first drive was excellent with a nice crash of Rhino, some Elephants, the odd Dagga Boy and a Leopard treed by Hyena with a kill hanging very precariously. Later we learnt that the kill had indeed fallen and that one of the Eyrefield Males had stolen it. It was very nice to see, groups coming back after 9pm, who had stayed out to see the feeding action.

Back at the lodge, a bath had been drawn for us, nice while waiting for DW to finsih in the shower. Why not a double shower? There's lots of room, but only one head, which incidentally is one of those point straight down, am I the only person who hates that?
After a quick change we headed off to our scheduled wine tasting, which we did alone with Francoise the sommelier. This was a definite highlight of the trip, the place is very expensive in part because of the all inclusive package and the amazing wine selection. Most people don't seem to take advantage. But I'm sure he would have opened 20 bottles for me to taste if I had asked. Wanting to eat dinner at a reasonable hour, we spent from 8-9 with him, selected three wines for dinner (didn't drink them all - but made a hefty dent) and then selected another couple for the next night. The sommelier provided tasting notes for us also - left in the room, but I can recommend Hartenberg Syrah and a Bordeaux Blend called Niel Mackenzie which is awesome. The SA wines continue to improve rapidly.
Dinner was excellent, it was nice for us to be alone, the food is very fancy and done quite well, but they might be better served if they simplified a little and improved execution. The service from Vivian our Banakeli was excellent, and when she realized that she could have a lot of fun with me, we got on very well. I shocked her with my use of Shangaan names for the animals, so then she started teaching me some Shangaan, I'm terrible at languages but it was fun to try.
The next morning we had a full vehicle, one of our fears is that other guests will be late, they will linger over coffee and half the day is gone before you get moving. While clearly not as into it as we were, they were punctual and ready to go right away. We were the only vehicle that morning despite a full camp. One vehicle went out around 7:30am.
This game drive was a beaut, a Leopard with two young cubs, a female Lion, with sub adult M,F and 3 month cub. Male Cheetah, not doing much was great to see, Singita has some amazing open areas that are much larger than I'm used to seeing at MM, which I'm sure provides for more regular Cheetah sightings. On this drive we saw the Reedbuck, also Black-winged Stilt an SSGR first for me, a great views of a Gymnogene. Marc our ranger asked if we wanted to stay out longer and everyone was up for it. So he had sandwiches delivered to the bush to replace breakfast. After the sandwiches I asked permission to find a suitable bush. He said go back up the road and be careful, we had driven that road and not seen anything, so I headed uphill towards a likely looking spot. As I scoped the area around me, I realized when I looked up that 2 Dagga Boys were about 20 yards from me and looking at me. Fortunately I did not run. I stopped, made sure they looked relaxed, then walked slowly backwards to the group informing them of the situation. A little close for me.
We ended the drive right on the 7 hour mark, with a visit to the store. Quite a place, and quite some pricing policy, wow, talk about effective maximization of margins. But there were no shortage of customers, so good for them.
After a quick lunch and workout, we headed out again. This time just 3 of us. The highlights of this drive were a male elephant coming right to the side of the vehicle and sniffing Marc with his trunk about 2 feet from his face, maybe closer. As the elephant came closer, DW and I didn't even get our camera's out, we were so intent on being quiet and still, very cool. Later on the drive we found the male Lion who put on a very impressive display of roaring for us.
That night was a Boma night, and we were seated a sa group, except the people who hadn't been on drive showed up 45 minutes late, then had to have a drink before we got dinner, by which time DW and I had polished off the Chenin / Viognier blend and were about to get started on the Syrah.
The Boma night was fun, but the food was on a par with the Boma at MM, so no great additional value there. After dinner a hippo was blocking the path to the rooms, so we had a little delay. Also the baboons are quite cheeky here, a number were on our deck, and one was looking through the window at me, until he saw my look up, then he was gone.
Overall I would say I enjoyed Singita. We had an excellent ranger whose passion was obvious. Furthermore he listened to requests, he started the first drive knowing we were birders and so stopped a couple of times for birds. I told him that wasn't necessary and that we didn't want to spoil the first time for the other guests, he understood and thanked us for our approach. Besides I was at 159 and didn't expect to get another bird for the trip, we actually got 5 more so it was successful.
The food at breakfast was not as good as MM, the lunch was about the same, though MM has slightly more variety.
Dinner was better in the restaurant, but not in the Boma.
Service was of a slightly higher standard, mainly because Singita clearly requires a higher level of English language proficiency.
No comment on the spa.
Gym was similarly equipped, Singita had TV showing news - aagh!
I prefer the MM gym showing Beauty and the Beasts, better still I like the location with views over the river, and often close up's of Elephants.
Quality of game was excellent, but it is the SSGR and so I expected that. As to what you see, that's just luck.
Wine was a big winner for Singita, but with the extra cost it should be. Most people did not show much interest, let alone take advantage.
The focus of the operation is definitely on the whole Singita experience of which game is one part. I think MM does focus on the game, and everything else is about providing a comfortable environment, whereas at Singita, the game is one element.
The cost alone would probably stop me going back (note I dont say that about Mombo) I would rather stick to my combo of MM Main and Rattrays, that's where I'm most comfortable.
For first timers, honeymooners, people with lots of time and money, its a great spot, with a private vehicle it would be pretty hard to beat the combination of you determining the game emphasis, allied to the lodge and the wine, a big plus for me.

Next trip is Jan 2009, 2 nighta at Pafuri Lodge to bird, then 3 each at Main Camp and Rattrays. Can't wait!

isabel25

Great report!!!

So, just curious: If Singita and Mala Mala were the same price -- and Mala Mala included wine -- which would you choose? (or is that an unfair question)?

By the way, does Mala Mala have a nice wine selection available (for purchase)? Do you think they'd be willing to put together a wine tasting?

And I just asked this question in another thread, but I'll ask it here, too. In addition to the wines you mentioned in the Singita discussion, are there any other South African wines you'd recommend? I'm interested in wine, but know nothing about South African wines and would love to get input from a pro!

napamatt

Isabel

At the same price with wine included, MM every time.

MM has a good cellar with some excellent wines, their wine glasses aren't very good, a plus for Singita.

These are just a few favorites

De Morgenhof Chenin
Iona Sauv Blanc
Hamilton Russell Chard and Pinot
Bouchard Pinot
Ruppert and Rothschild
Vriesenhof
Meerlust
Guardian Peak
Hartenberg
Kevin Arnold
Jordan
Luddite
Neil Mackenzie

scfphoto

Napamatt, Could you describe the dinner routine at Rattrays? Are just some meals group boma experiences and other nights sit down wait service dinners? They do not have much dining info on their website. We are not large group dinner people, at least not every night.We are not antisocial but we do enjoy our own company. We both suffer from only child syndrome I suspect. Being a food and wine photographer I am a bit more critical than many people when it comes to dining. On the other hand we are going for the bush and animal experience not for the food. I have already done the Michelin 3* in many parts of the world.

andybiggs

Matt, I had a wonderful bottle of Galpin Peak 2006 pinot noir at Mala Mala last week. One of the better ones from SA that I have had in a long time. Roughly R450, and well worth every cent. All hail to the mighty pino noir grape! (Yes, we were wine country junkies when we used to live near you).

HariS

Not Napamatt - but, i remember having dinner in the dining room a couple of times, mostly because of the weather and the threat of rain. I think, it was a buffet from memory. Don't remember much about the food - except that there was plenty. And, the Kapankop wine, ofcourse ......

napamatt

Andy

I will try the Galpin Peak next January hopefully.

SCF

Here goes on the MM/ Rattrays eating schedule.
Everybody's first meal is lunch, so we have noticed that the form these days is to set groups separately until they see whether people are going to get along. You could simply request this from the get go and no one in your group would be any the wiser. In addition you could choose to have the ranger join you or have him be with the other group.
Dinners at Main Camp are almost always in the Boma, at Rattrays they use the deck as much as the Boma, or the dining room if its raining. Again the et up of the deck is very conducive to having a private table, in addition you could opt for room service, which at Rattrays would probably be a nice option, given how nice the rooms are. Boma dinners involve individual tables arrange side by side in an arc with one person having their back to the fire, and one facing. Generally these will be set so that you are sitting with your ranger and fellow vehicle mates. I haven't seen people seated separately at this time, though I confess I'm not really paying much attention.
If it's a big deal, ask Charles the manager when you arrive to go over the dinner schedule, then based on your relationship with the other guests you can request separate seating for deck dinners and room service for the boma. Though you might want to give the Boma a go, there is a Thick-tailed Bushbaby to be seen there most nights.
Above all remember that while MM have a certain way of doing things, they want you to have an enjoyable stay and will do what they can to achieve that.

scfphoto

OK, last silly question on the dinner topic. Are all the meals served in buffet style at Rattrays or is there sometimes a menu to order from. I am sure we will need to speak to management as my wife is definately not a red meat eater especially game meats, although inexplicably loves foi gras and will order it almost every time it is on the menu, even with all the humane animal treatment issues. Not that I expect it at Rattrays. Thanks.

andybiggs

It is a combination most of the time. Soups and desserts served to you by the staff, and main course items at the buffet. This is mainly how it works in the boma.

napamatt

No menu, there is always, a red meat, usually a chicken, or pork and a veggie option. But I have seen people make special requests ahead of time and it be handled no problem.

debwarr

Napamatt,

Thanks for the great trip report. Based on your, and others, comments, I'll definitely try MM on our next trip. A question about Singita, however. When we were there last September there was a young male leopard who was hanging around the lodge and since we saw him so much (he sat on the roof of our room several times) I'm curious about his fate. Our ranger (Marc E who was excellent) was worried that if he did not soon strike out to stake out his own territory he could be threatened, especially by the coalition of 6 male lions who were also there during our visit. Did you happen to see this leopard or learn anything about his fate. He was a gorgeous animal and I hope he found a new, safer home. Thanks again for the great trip report!

Debbie

napamatt

Debbie

We saw no signs of a young male Leopard near camp, nor did Marc speak about it. That would suggest he is gone and certainly not hanging around camp.

napamatt

http://www.mypublisher.com/bookshelf/bookviewer.py?d=cppl`je>3315382-tq>2

Link to photobook

sniktawk

I just noticed the reference to Galpin Peak Pinot Noir! This costs ZAR 170 from the cellar door, 45 minutes from where I live , that's quite a mark-up.
It is very good wine though even better is the "Tete de Cuvee" but a lot more expensive.
Probably the finest Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy.

debwarr

Napamatt,

Thanks for the update on the Singita leopard. I'm glad he's no longer there....I just hope it was a good ending.

lerise

I would just like to ask how "Singita" is pronounced. Thanks!!!!

napamatt

SIN-GEE-TA

lerise

Thanks a lot!!!