TRIP REPORT April/May 2007 South Africa, Botswana, Zambia
May 17th, 2007, 07:56 PM
#21
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Hi Marseus
Reading your report with interest, thank-you. I am a regular to MalaMala, and I must say, the ranger you refer to has made me think of who it could be! I cannot think of a head ranger of three years in recent years besides Chris Daphne, even Leon I do not think would have been there as head ranger for 3 years as Chris left, I believe in June 2004. And to my memory, the head ranger is a ranger on a daily basis, not a desk job - so I am wondering if this fellow was not a head ranger at another camp.
I am also surprised at your comment that you asked to eat without him and he insisted on eating with you! Usually, I would have thought eating alone meant eating in your room, as eating alone in the Boma, I would have thought would not be eating alone! The ranger would have needed to be near you at any rate, as it is part of his job to see to drink orders or anything else that you or your other guests require.
I also spend a few nights at Rattray's each visit, because I find the rooms so luxurious and that, for me, is the only difference between the two camps, besides the obvious one of less guests at Rattray's.
I have been to Singita, and other luxury camps, and to me, a gameviewing addict, MalaMala is my only choice at the moment.
I nearly always like heading south, and I read with interest your comments regarding the conflict between the Kirkman's ranger and your MM ranger. It stands to reason that each property owner has guidelines for animal viewing and that is the way it should be! I like the rules that guide MM rangers, and never having stayed at Kirkmans I can't really comment except to say that on one occasion a few years ago, I was not happy that a Kirkman's vehicle went so close to where very young leopards cubs were hidden in amoung rocks. But having come into contact with many Kirkman rangers over the years, I have never heard a cross word spoken either to the Kirkman rangers or to us after we had left a sighting. Usually, the rangers know each other by name, unless one of them is fairly new.
I am pleased that you had great gameviewing experience, I always do have the same at MM, but sometimes it isn't until I return home and look at my photos, that I realise how incredibly lucky I am at MM!
Kind regards
Kaye
Reading your report with interest, thank-you. I am a regular to MalaMala, and I must say, the ranger you refer to has made me think of who it could be! I cannot think of a head ranger of three years in recent years besides Chris Daphne, even Leon I do not think would have been there as head ranger for 3 years as Chris left, I believe in June 2004. And to my memory, the head ranger is a ranger on a daily basis, not a desk job - so I am wondering if this fellow was not a head ranger at another camp.
I am also surprised at your comment that you asked to eat without him and he insisted on eating with you! Usually, I would have thought eating alone meant eating in your room, as eating alone in the Boma, I would have thought would not be eating alone! The ranger would have needed to be near you at any rate, as it is part of his job to see to drink orders or anything else that you or your other guests require.
I also spend a few nights at Rattray's each visit, because I find the rooms so luxurious and that, for me, is the only difference between the two camps, besides the obvious one of less guests at Rattray's.
I have been to Singita, and other luxury camps, and to me, a gameviewing addict, MalaMala is my only choice at the moment.
I nearly always like heading south, and I read with interest your comments regarding the conflict between the Kirkman's ranger and your MM ranger. It stands to reason that each property owner has guidelines for animal viewing and that is the way it should be! I like the rules that guide MM rangers, and never having stayed at Kirkmans I can't really comment except to say that on one occasion a few years ago, I was not happy that a Kirkman's vehicle went so close to where very young leopards cubs were hidden in amoung rocks. But having come into contact with many Kirkman rangers over the years, I have never heard a cross word spoken either to the Kirkman rangers or to us after we had left a sighting. Usually, the rangers know each other by name, unless one of them is fairly new.
I am pleased that you had great gameviewing experience, I always do have the same at MM, but sometimes it isn't until I return home and look at my photos, that I realise how incredibly lucky I am at MM!
Kind regards
Kaye
May 18th, 2007, 02:39 AM
#23
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Hi Kaye,
I still can't remember his name---I know he was behind the desk on the radio at MM and had been at MM for 3 yrs or more. He had short dark hair and wore a gold chain if that helps. Anyway we were talking about the importance of the fodors africa forum and he asked if I knew you! He said that you had recently been there for a long stay and then I remembered having read your report or having seen photos you posted.
I still can't remember his name---I know he was behind the desk on the radio at MM and had been at MM for 3 yrs or more. He had short dark hair and wore a gold chain if that helps. Anyway we were talking about the importance of the fodors africa forum and he asked if I knew you! He said that you had recently been there for a long stay and then I remembered having read your report or having seen photos you posted.
May 18th, 2007, 03:26 AM
#24
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Hi Marseus
I obviously don't look closely enough - as I can't recall any gold chains, so that has not helped me. Short dark hair and a good talker maybe Devon, and I have not had the pleasure of Devon as my ranger, but he is very keen, which is a must in a ranger! But I am not aware of him being behind a desk,to my knowledge he has always been a ranger, and he was for a short while, the head ranger.
Shall be one of life's mysteries I guess! I was there for a relatively long stay in January then again in March/April, as I did mention, I am addicted to the gameviewing. Unfortunately, I have to wait now until December, which is proving fairly difficult, as the gameviewing on the cyberdiary is fantastic and makes me absolutely green with envy!
Kind regards
Kaye
I obviously don't look closely enough - as I can't recall any gold chains, so that has not helped me. Short dark hair and a good talker maybe Devon, and I have not had the pleasure of Devon as my ranger, but he is very keen, which is a must in a ranger! But I am not aware of him being behind a desk,to my knowledge he has always been a ranger, and he was for a short while, the head ranger.
Shall be one of life's mysteries I guess! I was there for a relatively long stay in January then again in March/April, as I did mention, I am addicted to the gameviewing. Unfortunately, I have to wait now until December, which is proving fairly difficult, as the gameviewing on the cyberdiary is fantastic and makes me absolutely green with envy!
Kind regards
Kaye
May 18th, 2007, 04:04 AM
#25
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Hi Kaye,
Thanks. It was Devon!
Yes i am addicted too. Just watched the youtube buffalo/lion/croc and then felt compelled to send an e-mail to my TA about a trip to E Africa next February.
Thanks. It was Devon!
Yes i am addicted too. Just watched the youtube buffalo/lion/croc and then felt compelled to send an e-mail to my TA about a trip to E Africa next February.
May 18th, 2007, 05:27 AM
#26
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Marseus,
Yes, Devon does have a golden chain around his neck. It is the star of david. He is Jewish. Very, very cool guy. Excellent ranger and he just loves the bush! Always full of energy!
Cheers,
JP
Yes, Devon does have a golden chain around his neck. It is the star of david. He is Jewish. Very, very cool guy. Excellent ranger and he just loves the bush! Always full of energy!
Cheers,
JP
May 18th, 2007, 05:06 PM
#27
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This is such a fascinating report on some excellent destinations--once you finally landed, that is.
You had a great description of the Jabulani Elephant riding experience. I'll take it from the Swiss and from you to focus on the elephant part if I ever go there, and I'd love to. The cost comparison with Abus is a big plus for Jabulani, espeically if it is eles and not extreme luxury you are seeking.
You are so right about stretching before the a.m. ele ride. I pulled a back muscle once when doing some elephant riding (as a passenger) in Matoba Hills, Zimbabwe, and I am not at all prone to back problems. Thank goodness I had some muscle relaxers with me for the next two days of rhino tracking.
You certainly had the morning breakfast run, at least from the ele's standpoint. Like so many of us do, it was eating on the run in the morning too.
Interesting aside on the Bushes in South Africa.
So many people go back to Africa with the hopes of seeing a leopard that was missed on the first trip. You, on the other hand, saw lots of leopards but might be enticed back to Vuyatela for on account of the contemporary art!
It is too bad for anyone spending time at Mala Mala to miss some of the sought-after species they are famous for. But I'm glad you mentioned that it is possible to spend 4 nights and not see rhino, leopard, lion, or even a hyena. It emphasizes the luck of the bush and that even Mala Mala is not a zoo that produces photographic prizes on demand. Similarly, a guide at Mombo told me he recalled a 2-week period with zero cats.
Going back to Mala Mala next year, eh? Are you trying to catch up with NapaMatt and Kaye?
I'll consider myself forewarned of the talking ranger. I hope you enjoyed learning about cricket and rugby. Since I'm not a sports fan, I'm already thinking of ways to redirect the conversation (if I end up with this gentleman).
Your Mala Mala sightings were pretty fantastic even by Mala Mala standards with a mother/cub leopard kill, wild dogs vs. leopards, and Elizabeth Vargas!
A hyena den is one of my favorites and if the guide said it was the best display he had seen, you must have had a wonderful experience.
I liked your account of the contrast between humans bickering over property boundaries and the wild dogs and leopards battling for prey to keep them alive for another few days.
Anticipating the rest of your trip report!
You had a great description of the Jabulani Elephant riding experience. I'll take it from the Swiss and from you to focus on the elephant part if I ever go there, and I'd love to. The cost comparison with Abus is a big plus for Jabulani, espeically if it is eles and not extreme luxury you are seeking.
You are so right about stretching before the a.m. ele ride. I pulled a back muscle once when doing some elephant riding (as a passenger) in Matoba Hills, Zimbabwe, and I am not at all prone to back problems. Thank goodness I had some muscle relaxers with me for the next two days of rhino tracking.
You certainly had the morning breakfast run, at least from the ele's standpoint. Like so many of us do, it was eating on the run in the morning too.
Interesting aside on the Bushes in South Africa.
So many people go back to Africa with the hopes of seeing a leopard that was missed on the first trip. You, on the other hand, saw lots of leopards but might be enticed back to Vuyatela for on account of the contemporary art!
It is too bad for anyone spending time at Mala Mala to miss some of the sought-after species they are famous for. But I'm glad you mentioned that it is possible to spend 4 nights and not see rhino, leopard, lion, or even a hyena. It emphasizes the luck of the bush and that even Mala Mala is not a zoo that produces photographic prizes on demand. Similarly, a guide at Mombo told me he recalled a 2-week period with zero cats.
Going back to Mala Mala next year, eh? Are you trying to catch up with NapaMatt and Kaye?
I'll consider myself forewarned of the talking ranger. I hope you enjoyed learning about cricket and rugby. Since I'm not a sports fan, I'm already thinking of ways to redirect the conversation (if I end up with this gentleman).
Your Mala Mala sightings were pretty fantastic even by Mala Mala standards with a mother/cub leopard kill, wild dogs vs. leopards, and Elizabeth Vargas!
A hyena den is one of my favorites and if the guide said it was the best display he had seen, you must have had a wonderful experience.
I liked your account of the contrast between humans bickering over property boundaries and the wild dogs and leopards battling for prey to keep them alive for another few days.
Anticipating the rest of your trip report!
May 19th, 2007, 03:25 AM
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Hi atravelyn,
You would be very lucky to get Devon for your ranger. You talk to him of wildlife and I doubt the conversation would be steered to sport! I have had quite a few conversations with him, and his zest for wildlife would be hard to match - and his energy is amazing, and I think, though I have never had him as a ranger, that he is a ranger who will go out of his way to deliver what his guests would like. He also has a great sense of humour and always seems to be happy. Certainly from Marseus' description I would not have guessed it was Devon - even with the short dark hair! So it shows us I guess, that people see the same person quite differently!
Kind regards
Kaye
You would be very lucky to get Devon for your ranger. You talk to him of wildlife and I doubt the conversation would be steered to sport! I have had quite a few conversations with him, and his zest for wildlife would be hard to match - and his energy is amazing, and I think, though I have never had him as a ranger, that he is a ranger who will go out of his way to deliver what his guests would like. He also has a great sense of humour and always seems to be happy. Certainly from Marseus' description I would not have guessed it was Devon - even with the short dark hair! So it shows us I guess, that people see the same person quite differently!
Kind regards
Kaye
May 19th, 2007, 05:01 AM
#29
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Thanks Atravelynn,
Don't get me wrong, Devon was an excellent ranger with a lot of enthusiasm. My complaint was only that it was difficult to talk to my parents about more private issues since he was always there--that would have been an issue with any ranger I think. And my parents are not people who can talk about game viewing all the time hence his attempt to move the conversation to sports. I hope he's not following this thread.....
And I do think its important that people realize that even at MM its not guaranteed that you will have tremendous game viewing even though the probability is quite high. We were quite fortunate. Thats why I think its great to go to a place like MM where you will see loads of game and then go to Botswana where you experience something more "natural," whatever that means. I remember my first time in a Botswana camp---Eagle Island(happened also to be my first safari experience) and we saw very little large game except for various antelopes (but countless numbers of birds and fabulous landscapes) for three days and no elephants until we were about to board the plane. We were disppointed and I think even complained---I am embarrassed we did that. In retrospect those three days at Eagle island were a wonderful experience and I would recommend everyone go there. As a water based camp, it was excellent. Very luxurious, i.e. one person per makoro, walks on islands, and the service and guides were top notch. And the first day and night we had the entire camp to ourselves. Eagle Island also has what I think now is an unbelievable in-ground pool not surrounded by decking but well-manicured grass. Not everyone cares about a pool, but it was really hot and we enjoyed it a great deal. You can unfortunately only make these kinds of positive observations after having experienced different camps and with realistic expectations. I wasn't using this forum at the time so that certainly would have helped.
By the way, from what I have gathered talking to others, Jabulani is probably just as "luxurious" as Abu but just not as isolated.
Don't get me wrong, Devon was an excellent ranger with a lot of enthusiasm. My complaint was only that it was difficult to talk to my parents about more private issues since he was always there--that would have been an issue with any ranger I think. And my parents are not people who can talk about game viewing all the time hence his attempt to move the conversation to sports. I hope he's not following this thread.....
And I do think its important that people realize that even at MM its not guaranteed that you will have tremendous game viewing even though the probability is quite high. We were quite fortunate. Thats why I think its great to go to a place like MM where you will see loads of game and then go to Botswana where you experience something more "natural," whatever that means. I remember my first time in a Botswana camp---Eagle Island(happened also to be my first safari experience) and we saw very little large game except for various antelopes (but countless numbers of birds and fabulous landscapes) for three days and no elephants until we were about to board the plane. We were disppointed and I think even complained---I am embarrassed we did that. In retrospect those three days at Eagle island were a wonderful experience and I would recommend everyone go there. As a water based camp, it was excellent. Very luxurious, i.e. one person per makoro, walks on islands, and the service and guides were top notch. And the first day and night we had the entire camp to ourselves. Eagle Island also has what I think now is an unbelievable in-ground pool not surrounded by decking but well-manicured grass. Not everyone cares about a pool, but it was really hot and we enjoyed it a great deal. You can unfortunately only make these kinds of positive observations after having experienced different camps and with realistic expectations. I wasn't using this forum at the time so that certainly would have helped.
By the way, from what I have gathered talking to others, Jabulani is probably just as "luxurious" as Abu but just not as isolated.
May 19th, 2007, 10:00 AM
#30
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Marseus,
Good skills and enthusiasm while in the bush are what’s really important to me in any ranger or guide. And I am someone who can talk about game viewing all the time. So then, no worries there.
Since you mentioned your parents, how did they react to the 5 attempted landings? I’m still thinking about that. I know I would be really upset and shaken.
Thanks for the correction on the luxury level of Jabualni. I wasn’t trying to downgrade it at all. One more question about it—did you ever walk with the elephants or watch them bathe in a river or pond?
Good skills and enthusiasm while in the bush are what’s really important to me in any ranger or guide. And I am someone who can talk about game viewing all the time. So then, no worries there.
Since you mentioned your parents, how did they react to the 5 attempted landings? I’m still thinking about that. I know I would be really upset and shaken.
Thanks for the correction on the luxury level of Jabualni. I wasn’t trying to downgrade it at all. One more question about it—did you ever walk with the elephants or watch them bathe in a river or pond?
May 28th, 2007, 07:52 AM
#32
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Devon replaced Leon as head ranger, we have not had him guide us. In fact after years of Leon, my new request is to have Phillemon as my tracker, brilliant at understanding animal behaviour, good english, a great sense of humor and really good at birding.
May 7th, 2008, 04:35 AM
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We are a family of four, with two teenagers, going to SA over Christmas break. I need to decide today if we are spending 3 nights at mala mala sable, or 3 nights at vuyatela. I am leaning towards vuyatela- I like the simpleness of the property, and it seems like the game viewing is very good. I am conflicted, as mala mala has a "legendary" reputation. It sounds like we'd see more wildlife at mala mala, but since I have nothing to compare to, do you think I will be satisfied with what we see at vuyatela. I really like that they take you to a local village- I think that would be so interesting for me and my kids. Thnaks. Joy
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