Trip Report #5: Serengeti, Kusini Camp
Feb 29th, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Trip Report #5: Serengeti, Kusini Camp
Trip Report #5: Serengeti: Kusini Camp
2/5-2/8/08
Note: This report is also included in the continuation of my initial trip report: Kenya: Amboseli 1st, which details the other four trip reports and includes links to photos and the entire itinerary.
We had picked Kusini Camp, located in the extreme southwest part of the Serengeti, because it seemed to have the best chance of being near the Migration in early February and was billed as a luxury camp.
You can view my photos from the Serengeti at http://www.photoshopshowcase.com/Go....mp;ABID=298563
Our Air Excel flight from Lake Manyara to Kusini Camp left promptly at 9am, and we were the only two passengers. Made a stop at Seronera in central Serengeti, to pick up more people. It was dramatically cooler here than Lake Manyara, in the upper 50’s, overcast, and had recently rained. On our descent onto the Kusini Camp airstrip, from both sides of the plane, we saw herds of wildebeests as far as the eye could see. Ah, the Migration was here.
Wolfgang, our guide from Kusini Camp, was waiting in an open Land Cruiser, and we proceeded on another game drive before going to camp. At first, I wasn’t too impressed with him. He was quieter, harder to understand, and didn’t seem as knowledgeable…but then, Vitalis was a hard act to follow. But, as we got to know him better I changed to a favorable opinion. And, I wasn’t too impressed with the famed Serengeti either. if you ignore the millions of wildebeests around, we didn’t see as many animals. The wildebeests had just given birth to about a half million babies about two weeks early, (because they’ve had rain early…somehow everything that happens is explained by the timing of the rain) So, the herds were spread out because the females were tending to the calves and not moving. And, no one had mentioned….the FLIES that accompany the Migration. Apparently, they had just come out that day, and they were obnoxious. We covered our mouth and nose with bandanas to avoid these pests that feast on all the wildebeest dung. We did see some sleeping lionesses, an old male lion up on a kopje, some klipspringers, spotted hyenas, and black-backed jackals. But compared to the Masai Mara, much fewer animals (other than wildebeests and zebras) and more boring scenery.
So, on this drab and dreary day… covered up like bandits, we pulled up to the Kusini Camp, where we were staying 3, rather than our usual 2 nights. The camp was nothing like I expected. The place looked like an army outpost. Clearly the most basic of places we’ve stayed at, although the camp is situated in a dramatic setting…high on a kopje (small rocky hill) overlooking the plains of the Serengeti and within a small forested area. The dining/lounge area is just a drab green tent on the granite rocky outcrop. Our tent, #8, is the furthest away, but it has the best view. From the raised wooden deck, we overlook a wide-open expanse of a tree-studded meadow below, with the plains in the distance. But the tent is devoid of decoration…drab green canvas, wooden floors, plain ecru bedspread, beat-up old wooden dresser, camp chairs, simple shower, flush toilet and sink…looks old and dreary…not enough lighting again . It’s a good thing we have our head-lights that we’ve used extensively in many camps. I feel slightly depressed on arrival.
Head back for lunch and it’s good. Pasta with 2 sauces, gazpacho and great bread and apple pie. Wine is included here also. Had to put up with a very noisy, obnoxious American who talked over our table to the one adjacent. (Remember, I’m American too)
Afterwards, we took a short nap. I’m so tired here! Must be the weather and the dreariness. And then we were off on our 4:30pm game drive, which is private. The most fun we had was watching the wildie babies chasing our vehicle…they run like the dickens! I felt like we were the pace car for babies in training for a race! Wolfgang said that they think we’re their mother...but they are so dumb that they run right in front of the vehicle and we were lucky not to hit them. They start running within 10 minutes of being born…they’d better to avoid all the predators around. I just couldn’t believe how fast they were and so cute with their little black faces and scampering gait. It’s hard to believe they’ll grow up into the relatively homely mature wildebeest. Driving around, we saw many lone babies who had gotten lost from their herds….that meant they were likely to be hyena or lion fodder. This was the first area where we saw kill lying around…mostly wildebeest babies. I asked Wolfgang if another mother would suckle a baby that wasn’t hers, and he wasn’t sure. We didn’t witness a birth, but did see babies nursing.
Mid-drive, I told Wolfgang I had to “check the tires”. My husband gave me the most peculiar look because he hadn’t heard that term used before for a bush loo break, and he knows I’m the most mechanically inept person he knows!
On a kopje, we also saw 3 lionesses and 2 males…and later 3 cheetahs. They looked extremely stuffed. One lioness sat guarding her kill…a full-grown wildebeest and two babies, but she looked too satiated to move. Anyway, so far I’m not crazy about the Serengeti. It’s flat and ugly and the migration isn’t what it’s cracked up to be…and then there are the flies!
Got back by 6:45pm in time for sundowners (but no sun) on top of the big kopje. No one seemed very friendly. We downed our gin & tonics (beginning to really like these!) had a few appetizers, and went back to change for dinner. Came back and everyone was sitting around the campfire waiting for the 7:30 call to dinner….first camp where many people just went to dinner in their safari clothes. The chef and another read tonight’s menu first in Swahili and then in English. We started talking to a younger American couple and were the last to enter the dining tent. Two large square communal tables were set up. One was already filled and the other was partially filled with the two American couples we’d seen at lunch and two British couples. However, the way they had seated themselves left one seat open on one side and three seats opposite….and we and the younger couple still had to sit down. So, I nicely asked the Americans if they could slide over one spot so that the four of us could sit together with our spouses. And they refused! It wasn’t like they were going to be separated from their spouses or anything. However, the British couple realized what was going on and slid over, so were able to be seated together. I was furious with their rudeness, but luckily, I had a charming seatmate in the younger American woman and didn’t need to speak to the other Americans the whole evening. She was interesting and fun to talk with ( a military trained Dr. who had served in Iraq) and salvaged what could have been a very long evening.
This was the first camp where the food wasn’t great for dinner. The chicken had a lot of inedible parts, and the lamb was tough. The starter and dessert were fine though.
Here, they seemed to encourage you to go on a game drive later, so we began at 7:30am. Again, the highlight was watching the baby wildebeests scampering about. The older ones gallop like horses. Also saw a small African wildcat that looked like a house cat and zebras mating. Again, an overcast day, and I’m getting bored riding across the endless plain. Got back at 1pm for lunch and decided to skip the afternoon game drive, preferring to nap in the very comfortable bed, and enjoy our view from the deck.
This time, sundowners on the kopje were much more fun. We were the only Americans left and really enjoyed sitting around the campfire and laughing with the other British and Australian couples before dinner. Tonight, they’d set up separate tables. Other than using white tablecloths and large candelabras, the dining tent is very plain also. The entrees were mixed again…tilapia was good and the pork was tough, but good soup and dessert.
Next morning’s game drive began at 8am. One of the British groups said they’d follow us because their driver for the week from Arusha had gotten terribly lost getting to Kusini the day before, and he wanted to tail a local driver. Hakuna matata. Right away, we saw 3 bull elephants, each chomping on a tree. One of them had a penis that looked like a 2X4 hanging at a 45 degree angle…with all the elephants we’ve seen, this was a first. Wolfgang decided we should move on because that meant he could get aggressive fast in his agitated state.
Then, he drove us east near the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and for the first time, we could see the herds of male wildebeests moving in several lines that stretched both directions to the horizon. The females are still tending their calves. We saw a lot of baby carcasses since so many get lost. Apparently, only 1 in 3 make it back here next year. Also saw a pack of many spotted hyenas just off the road, as well as herds of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles.
The best part was just before lunch when I spotted a lone CC Africa vehicle ahead, and inside were our game drive partners from Lake Manyara…the South African sisters! Couldn’t believe we’d run into them literally in the middle of nowhere, especially since they were staying at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge and that’s a long ways away.
We were heading to our bush lunch rendezvous with our British friends, but first spotted three sleeping lions…not much excitement there…and then 5 cheetahs! I love watching cheetahs! At least they were moving around a bit and watching us.
The bush lunch went quickly because of the flies, some drizzle and coolness. The Brits were joking about how much nicer our vehicle was, that Wolfgang provided chairs for the lunch, which apparently their driver didn’t have, and how their driver didn’t help Wolfgang at all. It made me glad that we were using the camp guides rather than hiring one for the week.
Got back about 2:30pm and decided we’d had it with game drives on the Serengeti. Maybe it was the weather, but I wondered if we’d been better off staying in the Seronera area. Perhaps it had more hills/mountains in the background, or more forested areas. Yes, we were near the Migration, but, to me, that was good for about 15 minutes (other than watching the babies run). I had chosen to stay 3 nights because I thought we’d cover more ground in the Serengeti, but it seemed like we kept traveling over the same areas. Two nights would have been sufficient. Wolfgang turned out to be a good guide. He was sweet, a bit shy, and told some good stories about animal (as well as some client) behavior.
However, the final dinner was so much fun that it made our visit here worthwhile. This time, we had one table with all of us, and we’ve never laughed as long and hard as we did that night. When the mother of our funny British friend started talking about the five-legged elephant we saw, that was all that was needed to set it off. Kusini did the best job of getting people to mix, from their sundowners on the kopje, to sitting around the campfire before and after dinner, and occasionally doing group seating. The managers, Sean & Samantha, were interesting to talk to and always greeted us when we returned to camp.
We heard Cape Buffaloes and hyenas during the night, but once again, missed hearing the lion’s roar. Upon waking, we saw a huge buffalo grazing right next to our tent and were glad we didn’t have to leave the tent right away. We were ready to move on to an actual lodge, rather than a tent.
Next: Ngorongoro Crater: Serena Lodge
2/5-2/8/08
Note: This report is also included in the continuation of my initial trip report: Kenya: Amboseli 1st, which details the other four trip reports and includes links to photos and the entire itinerary.
We had picked Kusini Camp, located in the extreme southwest part of the Serengeti, because it seemed to have the best chance of being near the Migration in early February and was billed as a luxury camp.
You can view my photos from the Serengeti at http://www.photoshopshowcase.com/Go....mp;ABID=298563
Our Air Excel flight from Lake Manyara to Kusini Camp left promptly at 9am, and we were the only two passengers. Made a stop at Seronera in central Serengeti, to pick up more people. It was dramatically cooler here than Lake Manyara, in the upper 50’s, overcast, and had recently rained. On our descent onto the Kusini Camp airstrip, from both sides of the plane, we saw herds of wildebeests as far as the eye could see. Ah, the Migration was here.
Wolfgang, our guide from Kusini Camp, was waiting in an open Land Cruiser, and we proceeded on another game drive before going to camp. At first, I wasn’t too impressed with him. He was quieter, harder to understand, and didn’t seem as knowledgeable…but then, Vitalis was a hard act to follow. But, as we got to know him better I changed to a favorable opinion. And, I wasn’t too impressed with the famed Serengeti either. if you ignore the millions of wildebeests around, we didn’t see as many animals. The wildebeests had just given birth to about a half million babies about two weeks early, (because they’ve had rain early…somehow everything that happens is explained by the timing of the rain) So, the herds were spread out because the females were tending to the calves and not moving. And, no one had mentioned….the FLIES that accompany the Migration. Apparently, they had just come out that day, and they were obnoxious. We covered our mouth and nose with bandanas to avoid these pests that feast on all the wildebeest dung. We did see some sleeping lionesses, an old male lion up on a kopje, some klipspringers, spotted hyenas, and black-backed jackals. But compared to the Masai Mara, much fewer animals (other than wildebeests and zebras) and more boring scenery.
So, on this drab and dreary day… covered up like bandits, we pulled up to the Kusini Camp, where we were staying 3, rather than our usual 2 nights. The camp was nothing like I expected. The place looked like an army outpost. Clearly the most basic of places we’ve stayed at, although the camp is situated in a dramatic setting…high on a kopje (small rocky hill) overlooking the plains of the Serengeti and within a small forested area. The dining/lounge area is just a drab green tent on the granite rocky outcrop. Our tent, #8, is the furthest away, but it has the best view. From the raised wooden deck, we overlook a wide-open expanse of a tree-studded meadow below, with the plains in the distance. But the tent is devoid of decoration…drab green canvas, wooden floors, plain ecru bedspread, beat-up old wooden dresser, camp chairs, simple shower, flush toilet and sink…looks old and dreary…not enough lighting again . It’s a good thing we have our head-lights that we’ve used extensively in many camps. I feel slightly depressed on arrival.
Head back for lunch and it’s good. Pasta with 2 sauces, gazpacho and great bread and apple pie. Wine is included here also. Had to put up with a very noisy, obnoxious American who talked over our table to the one adjacent. (Remember, I’m American too)
Afterwards, we took a short nap. I’m so tired here! Must be the weather and the dreariness. And then we were off on our 4:30pm game drive, which is private. The most fun we had was watching the wildie babies chasing our vehicle…they run like the dickens! I felt like we were the pace car for babies in training for a race! Wolfgang said that they think we’re their mother...but they are so dumb that they run right in front of the vehicle and we were lucky not to hit them. They start running within 10 minutes of being born…they’d better to avoid all the predators around. I just couldn’t believe how fast they were and so cute with their little black faces and scampering gait. It’s hard to believe they’ll grow up into the relatively homely mature wildebeest. Driving around, we saw many lone babies who had gotten lost from their herds….that meant they were likely to be hyena or lion fodder. This was the first area where we saw kill lying around…mostly wildebeest babies. I asked Wolfgang if another mother would suckle a baby that wasn’t hers, and he wasn’t sure. We didn’t witness a birth, but did see babies nursing.
Mid-drive, I told Wolfgang I had to “check the tires”. My husband gave me the most peculiar look because he hadn’t heard that term used before for a bush loo break, and he knows I’m the most mechanically inept person he knows!
On a kopje, we also saw 3 lionesses and 2 males…and later 3 cheetahs. They looked extremely stuffed. One lioness sat guarding her kill…a full-grown wildebeest and two babies, but she looked too satiated to move. Anyway, so far I’m not crazy about the Serengeti. It’s flat and ugly and the migration isn’t what it’s cracked up to be…and then there are the flies!
Got back by 6:45pm in time for sundowners (but no sun) on top of the big kopje. No one seemed very friendly. We downed our gin & tonics (beginning to really like these!) had a few appetizers, and went back to change for dinner. Came back and everyone was sitting around the campfire waiting for the 7:30 call to dinner….first camp where many people just went to dinner in their safari clothes. The chef and another read tonight’s menu first in Swahili and then in English. We started talking to a younger American couple and were the last to enter the dining tent. Two large square communal tables were set up. One was already filled and the other was partially filled with the two American couples we’d seen at lunch and two British couples. However, the way they had seated themselves left one seat open on one side and three seats opposite….and we and the younger couple still had to sit down. So, I nicely asked the Americans if they could slide over one spot so that the four of us could sit together with our spouses. And they refused! It wasn’t like they were going to be separated from their spouses or anything. However, the British couple realized what was going on and slid over, so were able to be seated together. I was furious with their rudeness, but luckily, I had a charming seatmate in the younger American woman and didn’t need to speak to the other Americans the whole evening. She was interesting and fun to talk with ( a military trained Dr. who had served in Iraq) and salvaged what could have been a very long evening.
This was the first camp where the food wasn’t great for dinner. The chicken had a lot of inedible parts, and the lamb was tough. The starter and dessert were fine though.
Here, they seemed to encourage you to go on a game drive later, so we began at 7:30am. Again, the highlight was watching the baby wildebeests scampering about. The older ones gallop like horses. Also saw a small African wildcat that looked like a house cat and zebras mating. Again, an overcast day, and I’m getting bored riding across the endless plain. Got back at 1pm for lunch and decided to skip the afternoon game drive, preferring to nap in the very comfortable bed, and enjoy our view from the deck.
This time, sundowners on the kopje were much more fun. We were the only Americans left and really enjoyed sitting around the campfire and laughing with the other British and Australian couples before dinner. Tonight, they’d set up separate tables. Other than using white tablecloths and large candelabras, the dining tent is very plain also. The entrees were mixed again…tilapia was good and the pork was tough, but good soup and dessert.
Next morning’s game drive began at 8am. One of the British groups said they’d follow us because their driver for the week from Arusha had gotten terribly lost getting to Kusini the day before, and he wanted to tail a local driver. Hakuna matata. Right away, we saw 3 bull elephants, each chomping on a tree. One of them had a penis that looked like a 2X4 hanging at a 45 degree angle…with all the elephants we’ve seen, this was a first. Wolfgang decided we should move on because that meant he could get aggressive fast in his agitated state.
Then, he drove us east near the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and for the first time, we could see the herds of male wildebeests moving in several lines that stretched both directions to the horizon. The females are still tending their calves. We saw a lot of baby carcasses since so many get lost. Apparently, only 1 in 3 make it back here next year. Also saw a pack of many spotted hyenas just off the road, as well as herds of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles.
The best part was just before lunch when I spotted a lone CC Africa vehicle ahead, and inside were our game drive partners from Lake Manyara…the South African sisters! Couldn’t believe we’d run into them literally in the middle of nowhere, especially since they were staying at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge and that’s a long ways away.
We were heading to our bush lunch rendezvous with our British friends, but first spotted three sleeping lions…not much excitement there…and then 5 cheetahs! I love watching cheetahs! At least they were moving around a bit and watching us.
The bush lunch went quickly because of the flies, some drizzle and coolness. The Brits were joking about how much nicer our vehicle was, that Wolfgang provided chairs for the lunch, which apparently their driver didn’t have, and how their driver didn’t help Wolfgang at all. It made me glad that we were using the camp guides rather than hiring one for the week.
Got back about 2:30pm and decided we’d had it with game drives on the Serengeti. Maybe it was the weather, but I wondered if we’d been better off staying in the Seronera area. Perhaps it had more hills/mountains in the background, or more forested areas. Yes, we were near the Migration, but, to me, that was good for about 15 minutes (other than watching the babies run). I had chosen to stay 3 nights because I thought we’d cover more ground in the Serengeti, but it seemed like we kept traveling over the same areas. Two nights would have been sufficient. Wolfgang turned out to be a good guide. He was sweet, a bit shy, and told some good stories about animal (as well as some client) behavior.
However, the final dinner was so much fun that it made our visit here worthwhile. This time, we had one table with all of us, and we’ve never laughed as long and hard as we did that night. When the mother of our funny British friend started talking about the five-legged elephant we saw, that was all that was needed to set it off. Kusini did the best job of getting people to mix, from their sundowners on the kopje, to sitting around the campfire before and after dinner, and occasionally doing group seating. The managers, Sean & Samantha, were interesting to talk to and always greeted us when we returned to camp.
We heard Cape Buffaloes and hyenas during the night, but once again, missed hearing the lion’s roar. Upon waking, we saw a huge buffalo grazing right next to our tent and were glad we didn’t have to leave the tent right away. We were ready to move on to an actual lodge, rather than a tent.
Next: Ngorongoro Crater: Serena Lodge
Mar 4th, 2008 | 08:41 PM
#4
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Hi Barefootbeach
I have read all your trip reports so far. All interesting. I will not be going there any time soon. I really think you would have far prefered a trip to South Africa in the private lodges.
I have to ask one thing though. Myself and a few others have complained on fodors about guests complaining about mice in tents etc and strange comments (remember the "guests" thread?). Did it not occur to you that around + 2 million animals there would be plenty of flies? This kind of comment is one of the reasons I think all lodges/camps etc should have an "Americanised" unit. It would have a huge sign above the hot tap in the shower saying "Hot Tap". Another one at the door saying "Please close behind you as insects may come in if left open" etc.
I have read all your trip reports so far. All interesting. I will not be going there any time soon. I really think you would have far prefered a trip to South Africa in the private lodges.
I have to ask one thing though. Myself and a few others have complained on fodors about guests complaining about mice in tents etc and strange comments (remember the "guests" thread?). Did it not occur to you that around + 2 million animals there would be plenty of flies? This kind of comment is one of the reasons I think all lodges/camps etc should have an "Americanised" unit. It would have a huge sign above the hot tap in the shower saying "Hot Tap". Another one at the door saying "Please close behind you as insects may come in if left open" etc.
Mar 5th, 2008 | 05:35 AM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 79
Hi jackssid2,
It wasn't just us who were commenting on the flies. The camps managers, our guide and the intrepid Brits also were complaining about them...and apparently they had just started to be a problem the day we arrived, so it depends on where the bulk of the migration is that influences where the flies will be. For instance, our guide said that the lions prefer to remain south of migration because they're less bothered by flies. We didn't have any flies, mice or other insects in our tent...other than the bat at Lake Manyara and I actually didn't freak out about it. (Of course, I'm not sure I would have slept too well with it buzzing around the room if it hadn't been removed). Still, I'm sure I'd love South Africa...but I also loved Kenya and Tanzania. I hope I didn't leave the impression that I didn't.
It wasn't just us who were commenting on the flies. The camps managers, our guide and the intrepid Brits also were complaining about them...and apparently they had just started to be a problem the day we arrived, so it depends on where the bulk of the migration is that influences where the flies will be. For instance, our guide said that the lions prefer to remain south of migration because they're less bothered by flies. We didn't have any flies, mice or other insects in our tent...other than the bat at Lake Manyara and I actually didn't freak out about it. (Of course, I'm not sure I would have slept too well with it buzzing around the room if it hadn't been removed). Still, I'm sure I'd love South Africa...but I also loved Kenya and Tanzania. I hope I didn't leave the impression that I didn't.
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