The Great Gorilla, Elephant and Surprise Migration Tour
Jul 19th, 2010, 04:49 PM
#41
moneyburns, you're right, no blondes on the trip to Somalia but perhaps some inner-blondes. I hop your lab is feeling better.
jules, glad to see you here! Where are you headed next?
Hi, sangeeta, moremiles, Lynn, lillipets, twaffle, long2, marija and cyn.
jules, glad to see you here! Where are you headed next?
Hi, sangeeta, moremiles, Lynn, lillipets, twaffle, long2, marija and cyn.
Jul 19th, 2010, 05:44 PM
#42
<u><b>Kenya, cont'd. </u>
<b>Haven't I Seen You Someplace Before?</b>
Another great thing about these safaris is the small-worldiness.
Ben, our ESS guide, is a birder. So is Sammy, Petra's boyfriend. Over dinner one evening we discovered that Sammy's good friend and fellow birder turned out to be Ben's nephew. Ben was the person who had first gotten his nephew interested in birds. Petra knows him as well.
We were at the stockade one day for a feeding and Hassan, one of the keepers who is the primary contact for camp guests, said to me, "Have you been here to Ithumba? I think we've met before." I said no. We talked a bit more and realized that we did meet at the Nairobi orphanage the year before he went to work at Ithumba. In 2004.
<b>Sian</b>
Sian was a six-year-old elephant at Ithumba. She was very thin and the Hassan told us she had been unwell for a while. The vet had been down the week before we arrived. No one knew what was wrong with her but she was getting progressively thinner and weaker, ate very little, not even milk. When the keeper-dependent orphans left the stockade every morning to spend the day out walking, browsing in the park, Sian would generally come back midday, exhausted and in need of rest.
One morning we went to the 6am feeding and arrived to find a bit of an emergency. Sian was lying down and wouldn't/couldn't get up. Even though she was small and thin, it still took about a dozen keepers and a very large branch to get her up. Apparently if elephants lie down for too long their organs are damaged. We stood there, frightened and sad, fully aware that she had been looking very bad during our visit and for some time prior. None of us took photos. I know I just stood there thinking "I hope I hope I hope, please Sian, please," not really deciding on what I should hope for because she seemed to be suffering.
But she did get up that day. Mark and Patty have sent me their DVD (thanks, guys) of the trip, and that evening at the feeding Sian is up and about and looking well. In the DVD you can hear us all telling each other, earnestly, hopefully, "She looks so good now. Doesn't she?" "Yes, much better. Hard to believe it's the same elephant from this morning," etc., as if to convince ourselves of the impossible.
I was in Amsterdam for two days at the end of my trip before returning to the States. I was just walking out of a museum when I got a text from Patty. The text said, "Sian died."
It was so interesting to see how the elephants at Ithumba had comforted and watched out for Sian while we were there, and how upset they had appeared the morning she wouldn't get up.
RIP, little one.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126678810
<b>Snakes!</b>
We were at Ithumba three nights. While we were there Mark saw a puff adder snaking right in front of him across the trail from the tents to the kitchen. Sammy and Petra saw a green mamba in the awning over their tent. And Sammy and Ben saw a black mamba on the way to Somalia. (Petra and I were chatting about cameras and missed it.)
Njage, Kimwele and Josephat, the guys who work at the camp, told us it never fails. They had a man from Brazil come and stay at camp. He was dying to see snakes. They looked <i>everywhere</i>, even scouring the hills above and around camp. He never saw one snake.
I'm not crazy about snakes.
<b>Haven't I Seen You Someplace Before?</b>
Another great thing about these safaris is the small-worldiness.
Ben, our ESS guide, is a birder. So is Sammy, Petra's boyfriend. Over dinner one evening we discovered that Sammy's good friend and fellow birder turned out to be Ben's nephew. Ben was the person who had first gotten his nephew interested in birds. Petra knows him as well.
We were at the stockade one day for a feeding and Hassan, one of the keepers who is the primary contact for camp guests, said to me, "Have you been here to Ithumba? I think we've met before." I said no. We talked a bit more and realized that we did meet at the Nairobi orphanage the year before he went to work at Ithumba. In 2004.
<b>Sian</b>
Sian was a six-year-old elephant at Ithumba. She was very thin and the Hassan told us she had been unwell for a while. The vet had been down the week before we arrived. No one knew what was wrong with her but she was getting progressively thinner and weaker, ate very little, not even milk. When the keeper-dependent orphans left the stockade every morning to spend the day out walking, browsing in the park, Sian would generally come back midday, exhausted and in need of rest.
One morning we went to the 6am feeding and arrived to find a bit of an emergency. Sian was lying down and wouldn't/couldn't get up. Even though she was small and thin, it still took about a dozen keepers and a very large branch to get her up. Apparently if elephants lie down for too long their organs are damaged. We stood there, frightened and sad, fully aware that she had been looking very bad during our visit and for some time prior. None of us took photos. I know I just stood there thinking "I hope I hope I hope, please Sian, please," not really deciding on what I should hope for because she seemed to be suffering.
But she did get up that day. Mark and Patty have sent me their DVD (thanks, guys) of the trip, and that evening at the feeding Sian is up and about and looking well. In the DVD you can hear us all telling each other, earnestly, hopefully, "She looks so good now. Doesn't she?" "Yes, much better. Hard to believe it's the same elephant from this morning," etc., as if to convince ourselves of the impossible.
I was in Amsterdam for two days at the end of my trip before returning to the States. I was just walking out of a museum when I got a text from Patty. The text said, "Sian died."
It was so interesting to see how the elephants at Ithumba had comforted and watched out for Sian while we were there, and how upset they had appeared the morning she wouldn't get up.
RIP, little one.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126678810
<b>Snakes!</b>
We were at Ithumba three nights. While we were there Mark saw a puff adder snaking right in front of him across the trail from the tents to the kitchen. Sammy and Petra saw a green mamba in the awning over their tent. And Sammy and Ben saw a black mamba on the way to Somalia. (Petra and I were chatting about cameras and missed it.)
Njage, Kimwele and Josephat, the guys who work at the camp, told us it never fails. They had a man from Brazil come and stay at camp. He was dying to see snakes. They looked <i>everywhere</i>, even scouring the hills above and around camp. He never saw one snake.
I'm not crazy about snakes.
Jul 19th, 2010, 06:50 PM
#43
<u><b>Kenya, part ?</b></u>
<b>The Nzuri Road</b>
We said our goodbyes to Petra, Sammy, the staff at Ithumba, Hassan and the other keepers, and all the orphans as well as the trouble-making, road-hog ex-orphans, and left Tsavo East for Tsavo West.
The previous year Patty and her crew had taken the shortcut through the park because the river was so low they could cross it. The guys at camp told us no way we could cross it this year, so the shortcut was out. We'd have to return the way we came.
On our way in to Tsavo East, however, Ben had noticed a newish-looking road by the closest village. He thought it looked promising and appeared more direct, so when we were driving through the village he asked some of the people whether it was a good road or what and where did it go. We wazungu heard each of the people Ben asked say, "Nzuri," somewhere in the middle of their Swahili sentences. We got the gist: this road was nzuri, it was fine, the car could handle driving it and it would save us some time.
I hope Patty and Mark have pictures of the nzuri road. It felt like a game drive without the game. An off-road game drive through a rock-bottom riverbed. People walking their donkeys turned to stare. "What in heavens name are you doing <i>driving a car</i> on this road???" they seemed to ask.
But it was nzuri and we eventually made it to Tsavo West. We saved about 20 minutes and I was worried Ben might need therapy.*
*Kidding. Ben had become quite adventurous by this point and seemed to enjoy the challenge of navigating Nzuri Road.
<b>The Nzuri Road</b>
We said our goodbyes to Petra, Sammy, the staff at Ithumba, Hassan and the other keepers, and all the orphans as well as the trouble-making, road-hog ex-orphans, and left Tsavo East for Tsavo West.
The previous year Patty and her crew had taken the shortcut through the park because the river was so low they could cross it. The guys at camp told us no way we could cross it this year, so the shortcut was out. We'd have to return the way we came.
On our way in to Tsavo East, however, Ben had noticed a newish-looking road by the closest village. He thought it looked promising and appeared more direct, so when we were driving through the village he asked some of the people whether it was a good road or what and where did it go. We wazungu heard each of the people Ben asked say, "Nzuri," somewhere in the middle of their Swahili sentences. We got the gist: this road was nzuri, it was fine, the car could handle driving it and it would save us some time.
I hope Patty and Mark have pictures of the nzuri road. It felt like a game drive without the game. An off-road game drive through a rock-bottom riverbed. People walking their donkeys turned to stare. "What in heavens name are you doing <i>driving a car</i> on this road???" they seemed to ask.
But it was nzuri and we eventually made it to Tsavo West. We saved about 20 minutes and I was worried Ben might need therapy.*
*Kidding. Ben had become quite adventurous by this point and seemed to enjoy the challenge of navigating Nzuri Road.
Jul 20th, 2010, 03:01 AM
#44
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Tears this morning over Sian; It is heartwrenching I am sure for her caregivers to work so hard to save these orphans only to lose one to who knows what. I follow Sheldrick on FB and there are so many heartwrenching stories, yet they continue to rescue, love and care for these adorable babies.
I can't wait to visit...
And to continue with your interesting and unusual TR...more like a visit to friends than a "typical safari"
I guess Ben didn't realize what he signed up for
Good stories for his journal.
I really hate snakes; well really I don't hate them, I am petrified of them.
Hope they are not in the Mara.
MoneyB
I can't wait to visit...
And to continue with your interesting and unusual TR...more like a visit to friends than a "typical safari"
I guess Ben didn't realize what he signed up for
Good stories for his journal.I really hate snakes; well really I don't hate them, I am petrified of them.
Hope they are not in the Mara.
MoneyB
Jul 21st, 2010, 04:22 AM
#46
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Finally getting a chance to read your report and enjoying it very much. Glad you were able to go to Ithumba, it's a pretty amazing place. The rest of your trip sounds so interesting and I envy you the gorilla treks.
joyce
joyce
Jul 25th, 2010, 12:44 PM
#49
<b><u>Kenya, from Tsavo to the Mara</b></u>
<b>Finch Hattons, a Leopard, Hippos and Crocs, Tse Tse Flies</b>
Since Patty and Mark stayed for several more days in Tsavo, I hope she'll discuss the park in greater detail in her report. I was there only one day/night. We did see a leopard relaxing on a rock--quite easily (thanks, Ben)--shortly after entering the park. In general the game here is far more prolific than in the part of Tsavo East we had been visiting. All the ungulates were out in full force, more baboons, more vervets, more mongooses, some predators, some crocs, and of course hippos galore because Finch Hattons is right on the water.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126762291
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126762289
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126848393
We did run into tse tse flies on an afternoon game drive. No massacre.
The nice thing about Finch Hattons: you can just lie around on the deck of your tent and watch the hippos. The not-so-nice thing: there were teen boys in the tent next to mine <i>loudly</i> playing some kind of video game late into the night. I was pretty ticked off, almost wanted to yell, "I came here to fall asleep to the sound of hippos not the sound of your g-d video game!!!"
I kept it together, however.
Next morning, I hugged Patty, Mark and Ben and hopped on the flight to the Mara.
Loved Tsavo. I want to return.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126848256
<b>Flights, Kicheche Bush Camp and the Olare Orok Conservancy Notes</b>
I flew Safarilink from the airstrip at Finch Hattons to Wilson via Amboseli. At Wilson I caught the 10am flight to the Mara. Easy. If you are a solo traveler you may need to pay for an extra seat to be picked up at Finch Hattons. I didn't know whether I was going to have to pay or not until the night before departing; in the end others were getting picked up too, so I only paid for my seat.
I have no point of comparison Mara-wise, but I thought the Olare Orok Conservancy was an excellent place to stay. There are only three camps on the conservancy so you pretty much have sightings to yourself or perhaps a vehicle from one of the other camps. The camp itself is beautiful and intimate. It feels like a very upscale bush camp, food's very good, staff very friendly, camp manager an interesting person, good conversationalist.
Guides and drives: extremely flexible, definitely cat-focused. If you have specific interests (birds, giraffes, flora), speak up and they will move heaven and earth to accommodate. All-day game drives, walks, whatever: the name of the game at KBC is flexibility.
My guide James picked me up at the Ol Kiombo airstrip and said, "You have been approved for a private vehicle for your stay." Music to my ears.
<b>The Mara and More Music to My Ears</b>
The last morning at Ithumba Ben had told us that he had received word that the wildebeest were already crossing into the Mara--a great many of them. He looked at me and said, "You will see the Migration after all." But I didn't believe it. At Tsavo the camp manager told us the same thing. But I didn't believe it. In the third week of June? No way.
Driving to Kicheche Bush Camp from the airstrip, James said, "So, they are coming already. You will see many crossings." Surrounded by the familiar and much-missed honking of wildebeest, I started to believe it.
<b>Finch Hattons, a Leopard, Hippos and Crocs, Tse Tse Flies</b>
Since Patty and Mark stayed for several more days in Tsavo, I hope she'll discuss the park in greater detail in her report. I was there only one day/night. We did see a leopard relaxing on a rock--quite easily (thanks, Ben)--shortly after entering the park. In general the game here is far more prolific than in the part of Tsavo East we had been visiting. All the ungulates were out in full force, more baboons, more vervets, more mongooses, some predators, some crocs, and of course hippos galore because Finch Hattons is right on the water.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126762291
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126762289
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126848393
We did run into tse tse flies on an afternoon game drive. No massacre.
The nice thing about Finch Hattons: you can just lie around on the deck of your tent and watch the hippos. The not-so-nice thing: there were teen boys in the tent next to mine <i>loudly</i> playing some kind of video game late into the night. I was pretty ticked off, almost wanted to yell, "I came here to fall asleep to the sound of hippos not the sound of your g-d video game!!!"
I kept it together, however.
Next morning, I hugged Patty, Mark and Ben and hopped on the flight to the Mara.
Loved Tsavo. I want to return.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126848256
<b>Flights, Kicheche Bush Camp and the Olare Orok Conservancy Notes</b>
I flew Safarilink from the airstrip at Finch Hattons to Wilson via Amboseli. At Wilson I caught the 10am flight to the Mara. Easy. If you are a solo traveler you may need to pay for an extra seat to be picked up at Finch Hattons. I didn't know whether I was going to have to pay or not until the night before departing; in the end others were getting picked up too, so I only paid for my seat.
I have no point of comparison Mara-wise, but I thought the Olare Orok Conservancy was an excellent place to stay. There are only three camps on the conservancy so you pretty much have sightings to yourself or perhaps a vehicle from one of the other camps. The camp itself is beautiful and intimate. It feels like a very upscale bush camp, food's very good, staff very friendly, camp manager an interesting person, good conversationalist.
Guides and drives: extremely flexible, definitely cat-focused. If you have specific interests (birds, giraffes, flora), speak up and they will move heaven and earth to accommodate. All-day game drives, walks, whatever: the name of the game at KBC is flexibility.
My guide James picked me up at the Ol Kiombo airstrip and said, "You have been approved for a private vehicle for your stay." Music to my ears.
<b>The Mara and More Music to My Ears</b>
The last morning at Ithumba Ben had told us that he had received word that the wildebeest were already crossing into the Mara--a great many of them. He looked at me and said, "You will see the Migration after all." But I didn't believe it. At Tsavo the camp manager told us the same thing. But I didn't believe it. In the third week of June? No way.
Driving to Kicheche Bush Camp from the airstrip, James said, "So, they are coming already. You will see many crossings." Surrounded by the familiar and much-missed honking of wildebeest, I started to believe it.
Jul 25th, 2010, 01:28 PM
#50
<b><u>Kenya, cont'd.</u></b>
<b>Stuck</b>
Arriving at KBC, after a leisurely game drive in from the airstrip (lions, elephants, zebras, topis, lots and lots of wildies), I had lunch, unpacked and met with James and Anna, the camp manager, for tea before heading out for the afternoon game drive. The clouds were heavy and ominous to the west. James said it would rain. We all joked about getting stuck overnight. James and I headed out with our sundowner supplies.
The game drive was excellent. I got to see more of the conservancy and was introduced to the coalition pride with two male lions.
As it got dark, we dashed off to see a mama giraffe with its tiny, one-week old baby. Suddenly stuck in a big ditch right in the one part of the conservancy rife with tse tse flies.
"You seem to be parked at an unusual angle," said the manager of the conservancy. He had been driving by and spied us from far off. Saved just in time to get out of there and have drinks amidst the Cape buffalo.
<b>Stuck</b>
Arriving at KBC, after a leisurely game drive in from the airstrip (lions, elephants, zebras, topis, lots and lots of wildies), I had lunch, unpacked and met with James and Anna, the camp manager, for tea before heading out for the afternoon game drive. The clouds were heavy and ominous to the west. James said it would rain. We all joked about getting stuck overnight. James and I headed out with our sundowner supplies.
The game drive was excellent. I got to see more of the conservancy and was introduced to the coalition pride with two male lions.
As it got dark, we dashed off to see a mama giraffe with its tiny, one-week old baby. Suddenly stuck in a big ditch right in the one part of the conservancy rife with tse tse flies.
"You seem to be parked at an unusual angle," said the manager of the conservancy. He had been driving by and spied us from far off. Saved just in time to get out of there and have drinks amidst the Cape buffalo.
Jul 25th, 2010, 05:19 PM
#51
Shaytay, I think you'd like Ithumba (and Rwanda if you haven't been). Check them out.
Joyce, I really wish you and Rod had been able to come too. And not just because of Mark's killer kuku.
Joyce, I really wish you and Rod had been able to come too. And not just because of Mark's killer kuku.
Aug 1st, 2010, 09:27 AM
#54
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How interesting Bill Gates is building in Rwanda. It can also serve as an excuse for him to go gorilla tracking more often after his onsite inspection.
A shredding heart is a perfect description of the impending departure.
Your hot springs account is a first. So you did not sample the potatoes?
Maybe we will see each other wandering around some day Leely as I get lost too. One of the worst is getting lost in the halls at the travel clinic that I go to at least every other year. If one can't navigate around the travel clinic, maybe one should not go on the trip.
I'm glad your tendency to get lost did not result in all of you ending up in Somalia.
I read up the to Sian story. That's a good place to halt for now. At least she is not suffering.
A shredding heart is a perfect description of the impending departure.
Your hot springs account is a first. So you did not sample the potatoes?
Maybe we will see each other wandering around some day Leely as I get lost too. One of the worst is getting lost in the halls at the travel clinic that I go to at least every other year. If one can't navigate around the travel clinic, maybe one should not go on the trip.
I'm glad your tendency to get lost did not result in all of you ending up in Somalia.
I read up the to Sian story. That's a good place to halt for now. At least she is not suffering.
Aug 2nd, 2010, 05:01 PM
#55
<b><u>Kenya, the Mara, cont'd.</b></u>
<b>Nine Months. Nine Months and Two Days.</b>
After the excitement of getting stuck, getting rescued, quick sundowners amid Cape Buffalo, I was up bright and early the next morning for a full-day game drive. I had slept pretty well, waking only when lions and hyenas were particularly loud. The honking of wildebeest is just like a white noise machine after awahile.
Leaving camp, James asked me if I wanted to go and try to see a crossing. Sure, why not.
As all the game drives from Kicheche Bush began, this one started with lions. Lions playing, drinking, and breakfasting on wildebeest. There were quite a few wildies on the Conservancy and I asked James whether they were resident or not. He said some were but that their resident herds didn't number this many and, as incredible as it seemed, some of these were part of the migration.
James is a Maasai. He grew up within a 30-minute walk to Kicheche Mara Camp. His job at Bush Camp means he is an hour's drive away from family. (Not bad compared to the keepers and staff guys and Ithumba who are <i>days</i> of travel from their loved ones.) He has been working for Kicheche for five years, his first and only employer. He started as a room steward and Kicheche later sent him to the Koiyiaki Guiding School. I believe he won the Silver medal for guiding last year.
James would be taking a week off after I left and spending it with his wife and child. During our bush breakfast that morning I asked him how old his son was. He replied, "Nine months. Nine months and two days."
<b>Nine Months. Nine Months and Two Days.</b>
After the excitement of getting stuck, getting rescued, quick sundowners amid Cape Buffalo, I was up bright and early the next morning for a full-day game drive. I had slept pretty well, waking only when lions and hyenas were particularly loud. The honking of wildebeest is just like a white noise machine after awahile.
Leaving camp, James asked me if I wanted to go and try to see a crossing. Sure, why not.
As all the game drives from Kicheche Bush began, this one started with lions. Lions playing, drinking, and breakfasting on wildebeest. There were quite a few wildies on the Conservancy and I asked James whether they were resident or not. He said some were but that their resident herds didn't number this many and, as incredible as it seemed, some of these were part of the migration.
James is a Maasai. He grew up within a 30-minute walk to Kicheche Mara Camp. His job at Bush Camp means he is an hour's drive away from family. (Not bad compared to the keepers and staff guys and Ithumba who are <i>days</i> of travel from their loved ones.) He has been working for Kicheche for five years, his first and only employer. He started as a room steward and Kicheche later sent him to the Koiyiaki Guiding School. I believe he won the Silver medal for guiding last year.
James would be taking a week off after I left and spending it with his wife and child. During our bush breakfast that morning I asked him how old his son was. He replied, "Nine months. Nine months and two days."
Aug 2nd, 2010, 05:29 PM
#56
<b>Crossings and Matings</b>
As we got closer to the river we saw more and more (and more!) wildebeest. After a while we were absolutely surrounded. James kept asking me, "How many do you think there are? I have been watching the Mara my whole life and I've never seen this many wildebeest." He and the other guides all seemed to be pretty excited about the early arrivals.
Although I had seen the tail end of the migration in the Serengeti in 2004, and a fuller picture in 2006, nothing prepeared me for this Mara spectacle. Wow. The crossings were chaotic and stressful, so many broken legs, so many near-escapes--and I didn't even see a kill. We saw the beginning of a kill, but the action moved closer to the bank above which we were perched too high/too steep to see the full event. We saw the initial snatch but not the final throes. I like to think that wildebeest got away. We saw many other nailbiters: weak-looking or stranded or slow or unaware wildies as b-i-g crocs swam up closer.
We watched four crossings that day, two of which were the big, dramatic kind rather than slower, streaming crossings. Amazing. The jumping, the following, the inability to get up the bank on the other side, having to swim back. I am not sure I would seek it out exactly. Why do they do this? It's so hard, so crazy. They must love that grass.
In the bushes near the river some lions were whiling away the time until their next meal by expressing their love for each other. Wink. They were mating next to yet another wildebeest carcass.
As we got closer to the river we saw more and more (and more!) wildebeest. After a while we were absolutely surrounded. James kept asking me, "How many do you think there are? I have been watching the Mara my whole life and I've never seen this many wildebeest." He and the other guides all seemed to be pretty excited about the early arrivals.
Although I had seen the tail end of the migration in the Serengeti in 2004, and a fuller picture in 2006, nothing prepeared me for this Mara spectacle. Wow. The crossings were chaotic and stressful, so many broken legs, so many near-escapes--and I didn't even see a kill. We saw the beginning of a kill, but the action moved closer to the bank above which we were perched too high/too steep to see the full event. We saw the initial snatch but not the final throes. I like to think that wildebeest got away. We saw many other nailbiters: weak-looking or stranded or slow or unaware wildies as b-i-g crocs swam up closer.
We watched four crossings that day, two of which were the big, dramatic kind rather than slower, streaming crossings. Amazing. The jumping, the following, the inability to get up the bank on the other side, having to swim back. I am not sure I would seek it out exactly. Why do they do this? It's so hard, so crazy. They must love that grass.
In the bushes near the river some lions were whiling away the time until their next meal by expressing their love for each other. Wink. They were mating next to yet another wildebeest carcass.
Aug 2nd, 2010, 07:26 PM
#59
crosscheck, I won't hurry you on your report or photos (though I am dying to see both), but did you get bitten by tse tse flies? And most importantly, what luggage did you all end up using?
Aug 2nd, 2010, 09:21 PM
#60
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No tse tses at all, nor any other biting insects - did you have them at Kicheche?
I will reveal our luggage choice in my report, since it ended up being a defining theme of our trip. Trying to catch up with work, but I should have my first installment and some photos by later in the week.
I will reveal our luggage choice in my report, since it ended up being a defining theme of our trip. Trying to catch up with work, but I should have my first installment and some photos by later in the week.
