Spiegel's May/June 2007 Trip Report
Jun 24th, 2007, 09:23 PM
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Spiegel's May/June 2007 Trip Report
This trip report will be a continuous one for the remainder of our trip so here goes.
We left on the morning of June 5 for Mala Mala. Upon arriving at MM we were met by Bruce Hedges who was to be our guide. We quickly dropped our bags in our bungalow and immediatly went in for tea and then our first game drive. I had been planning this trip for so long that I was close to tears as we boarded our jeep for the first time.
MM is known for the Big 5 and it did not dissapoint. John who is the tracker who works with Bruce has been tracking for 30years and he is amazing. I am not going to list how many of each animal we saw but we did see the Big 5 more than once as well as many of the other animals each day. We were at MM for 3 days and it was amazing. The property holds about 50 people yet you never feel like there is a crowd. The facility is run so perfectly that you feel like you are the only ones there.
The winter schedule is wake up call at 7:00 Breakfast at 7:30 and then out for the moring game drive at 8:00. Back about 11:30, and then lunch at 1:00. At about 3:00 back for tea ( you are feed every three hours it seems) and then for evening game drive. Back about 7:30 and dinner at 8:00 around the Boma at long tables with the rest of the guests. The food was excellent and I asked for some recipes and they were waiting for me when we checked out.
MM does not miss a thing. I have never stayed at any property, or cruise ship that runs as smoothly. The owners Ray and Norma Rattray are around a great deal of the time,and we had an opportunity to spend quite a long time talking with them.
The mornings and evenings were cold and layers were important. Long sleeve shirt, golf windbreaker, fleece I bought at MM and my down jacket. Hat, and gloves. As the day warmed up I took of the layers. In the evening as soon as the sun sets it gets cool again. Our weather was wonderful the entire time we were there, and in the evening for dinner only wore the fleece, as sitting around the boma was warm.
MM has a totally different atmosphere than the places we stayed at in Botswana, and each has it charm. We loved MM and would love to return. The game that you see in a short amount of time is spectular.
Next installment will have Kwetsani.
We left on the morning of June 5 for Mala Mala. Upon arriving at MM we were met by Bruce Hedges who was to be our guide. We quickly dropped our bags in our bungalow and immediatly went in for tea and then our first game drive. I had been planning this trip for so long that I was close to tears as we boarded our jeep for the first time.
MM is known for the Big 5 and it did not dissapoint. John who is the tracker who works with Bruce has been tracking for 30years and he is amazing. I am not going to list how many of each animal we saw but we did see the Big 5 more than once as well as many of the other animals each day. We were at MM for 3 days and it was amazing. The property holds about 50 people yet you never feel like there is a crowd. The facility is run so perfectly that you feel like you are the only ones there.
The winter schedule is wake up call at 7:00 Breakfast at 7:30 and then out for the moring game drive at 8:00. Back about 11:30, and then lunch at 1:00. At about 3:00 back for tea ( you are feed every three hours it seems) and then for evening game drive. Back about 7:30 and dinner at 8:00 around the Boma at long tables with the rest of the guests. The food was excellent and I asked for some recipes and they were waiting for me when we checked out.
MM does not miss a thing. I have never stayed at any property, or cruise ship that runs as smoothly. The owners Ray and Norma Rattray are around a great deal of the time,and we had an opportunity to spend quite a long time talking with them.
The mornings and evenings were cold and layers were important. Long sleeve shirt, golf windbreaker, fleece I bought at MM and my down jacket. Hat, and gloves. As the day warmed up I took of the layers. In the evening as soon as the sun sets it gets cool again. Our weather was wonderful the entire time we were there, and in the evening for dinner only wore the fleece, as sitting around the boma was warm.
MM has a totally different atmosphere than the places we stayed at in Botswana, and each has it charm. We loved MM and would love to return. The game that you see in a short amount of time is spectular.
Next installment will have Kwetsani.
Jun 24th, 2007, 10:14 PM
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Thanks for interesting report, more please.
I agree, even though MM has more guests than most of the SSGR camps, it really doesn't seem like it. Only at dinner do you see many other guests and wonder where they have been all day.
You're the second report that MM winter hour game drives begin at 8am. Sure sounds a little on the late side if you ask me. In this May at Leopard Hills (also in SSGR) we started at 6:30am at latest, which seemed about right. But, I've also heard (don't remember where) that MM has rangers out well before then (before 8am) spotting game. If this is true then it would be ok to start later. Much of the early start at Leopard Hills was looking for tracks on the dirt road that had been left the night before. And then following up on any hints.
I also like the way breakfast and lunch are arranged/setting/scheduled at MM. Every evening dinner is in the boma and that is quite nice, different, cozy.
regards - tom
I agree, even though MM has more guests than most of the SSGR camps, it really doesn't seem like it. Only at dinner do you see many other guests and wonder where they have been all day.
You're the second report that MM winter hour game drives begin at 8am. Sure sounds a little on the late side if you ask me. In this May at Leopard Hills (also in SSGR) we started at 6:30am at latest, which seemed about right. But, I've also heard (don't remember where) that MM has rangers out well before then (before 8am) spotting game. If this is true then it would be ok to start later. Much of the early start at Leopard Hills was looking for tracks on the dirt road that had been left the night before. And then following up on any hints.
I also like the way breakfast and lunch are arranged/setting/scheduled at MM. Every evening dinner is in the boma and that is quite nice, different, cozy.
regards - tom
Jun 25th, 2007, 06:31 AM
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Welcome home Carol and Ron. I am excited to hear all about your adventure and so far it sounds wonderful! I'll be looking forward to your photos as well.
I am torn between doing an all Mala Mala trip or breaking it up. I will be asking you some more questions when your report is completed.
I am torn between doing an all Mala Mala trip or breaking it up. I will be asking you some more questions when your report is completed.
Jun 25th, 2007, 04:41 PM
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I am swamped with work and heading to New York on Wednesday for a Thursday meeting and then back on Friday so this will be just a short addition
Regarding MM the wild dogs are denning there but we did not see them. Not for lack of trying because we went to the den area 3 times and each time we missed them. I guess they did not get the message that we were comming. We did however, find them later in the trip at another location. Our days at MM we wonderful. The lodge is not as authentic as staying at some of the permanent tented camps, but I could get very used to being there. I can't imagine where else you could see so much in such a short time.
A short note on packing. I was really concerned about the packing issue and my planning and all of your help paid off. The following is a list of what I actually took and what I did not use:
3 pairs of pants-(one zip off and two docker types
1 pair walking shorts
3 pairs of shoes. 1 tennis, one heavy walking and one old sandals
2 long sleeve tee shirts
2 long sleeve safari shirts
2 short sleeve tee shirts
1 tank top
1 golf wind shirt- wore this everyday
2 pairs of long underwear- only need one
5 pairs of panties
2 bras 1 black 1 beige and 1 sport bra- needed 2 sports bras
4 pairs of regular socks
1 pair knee hi warm socks
In addition for Cape Town I had one pair of black pants, one nice sweater, one nice back top and a lined raincoat.These extras were left at the hotel in JB for when we returned.
We took all of the suggested medications and fortunately really did not need any of them except our regular medications and the malaron.
Camera equipment was
1 Pentax K100D with a 28-300 lens
1 battery charger and 2 sets of AA recharagable batteries = one package of regualr AA which we never used.
1 Sony HD video camera with charger and batteries
1 Epson P 2000 which we used and loved
2 2 gig memory cards
8 60 minute video tapes of which we used 6
1 stip power cord which could hold 6 items at once. This was a big help as there is only one electrical outlet in the rooms.
1 SA power adapter, but we also needed the standard 3 round prong european adapter which we did not have and needed in two places. There we charged equipment in the office
1 Bean Bag which I had filled at the first camp
1 safari hat
1 sun visor
1 warm down jacket
1 gloves
1 hat
1 ear warmer headband
1 warm PJ's and 1 lighter weight pair. Used both
What I could have used was a pair of lightweight cotton lounge pants and top for when we were hanging out in the afternoons and just sitting on the deck or resting. Not major but I few times I wished I had them.
Other than sundries that is it and there was no excess and everything was worn many times.With the availability of laundry service that is all you need. I loved the fact that I wore no make up, jewelry, or used a hairdryer the whole time. A freeing experience.
Next installment will cover Kwetsani and Chitabe and maybe some pictues.
I used almost everything
Regarding MM the wild dogs are denning there but we did not see them. Not for lack of trying because we went to the den area 3 times and each time we missed them. I guess they did not get the message that we were comming. We did however, find them later in the trip at another location. Our days at MM we wonderful. The lodge is not as authentic as staying at some of the permanent tented camps, but I could get very used to being there. I can't imagine where else you could see so much in such a short time.
A short note on packing. I was really concerned about the packing issue and my planning and all of your help paid off. The following is a list of what I actually took and what I did not use:
3 pairs of pants-(one zip off and two docker types
1 pair walking shorts
3 pairs of shoes. 1 tennis, one heavy walking and one old sandals
2 long sleeve tee shirts
2 long sleeve safari shirts
2 short sleeve tee shirts
1 tank top
1 golf wind shirt- wore this everyday
2 pairs of long underwear- only need one
5 pairs of panties
2 bras 1 black 1 beige and 1 sport bra- needed 2 sports bras
4 pairs of regular socks
1 pair knee hi warm socks
In addition for Cape Town I had one pair of black pants, one nice sweater, one nice back top and a lined raincoat.These extras were left at the hotel in JB for when we returned.
We took all of the suggested medications and fortunately really did not need any of them except our regular medications and the malaron.
Camera equipment was
1 Pentax K100D with a 28-300 lens
1 battery charger and 2 sets of AA recharagable batteries = one package of regualr AA which we never used.
1 Sony HD video camera with charger and batteries
1 Epson P 2000 which we used and loved
2 2 gig memory cards
8 60 minute video tapes of which we used 6
1 stip power cord which could hold 6 items at once. This was a big help as there is only one electrical outlet in the rooms.
1 SA power adapter, but we also needed the standard 3 round prong european adapter which we did not have and needed in two places. There we charged equipment in the office
1 Bean Bag which I had filled at the first camp
1 safari hat
1 sun visor
1 warm down jacket
1 gloves
1 hat
1 ear warmer headband
1 warm PJ's and 1 lighter weight pair. Used both
What I could have used was a pair of lightweight cotton lounge pants and top for when we were hanging out in the afternoons and just sitting on the deck or resting. Not major but I few times I wished I had them.
Other than sundries that is it and there was no excess and everything was worn many times.With the availability of laundry service that is all you need. I loved the fact that I wore no make up, jewelry, or used a hairdryer the whole time. A freeing experience.
Next installment will cover Kwetsani and Chitabe and maybe some pictues.
I used almost everything
Jul 7th, 2007, 06:22 AM
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You had Bruce and John too! What a dynamic duo they are. I just returned home from Mala Mala myself. Bruce told me you were so organized and remembered both of you fondly. Looking forward to the rest of the story.
Jul 7th, 2007, 12:16 PM
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Welcome back, Carol! Carla, I once went to Harry's Camp at Mala Mala (now gone) for 10 days and had a great time. There is much to see there. That said, you might want to try another area of the Sabi Sands or even another reserve further north.
Jul 10th, 2007, 10:10 PM
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Work has really been getting in my way so I will try to speed up the remainder of the trip report.
As I said before Mala Mala was wonderful. I have been going through our pictures which I will post when they are done and they are pretty good, but besides that they are a visual reminder of this wonderful trip.
I would have to say that overall the sightings at Mala Mala were probably the best. There was not one day or night that we did not see wonderful animals.
Our next stop was Kwetsani.
We flew from to Johansburg where we spent the night. This actually worked out fine because we were able to leave a bag there with things from Cape Town which made our luggage much lighter.
From Johansburg we flew to Maun and then were picked up for the short flight to Kwetsani. This flight was in a big plane compared to the other planes. I think it held 12 people. Upon arrival at Maun we were picked up by our guide and taken to the boat dock for the 30 minute or so ride to the camp which is completely water based. The water level was pretty high and the roads were not available from the airport. This gave us our first glimpse of the delta. It was beautiful and just being out there was amazing.
Upon arrival at the camp we went through the typical conversation and signing of documents and were shown to our tent. I use the word "tent" very losely because the accomodations were wonderful. This is a fairly new camp and has double sink areas in the bathroon along with a shower inside and one outside Even though it was somewhat cold I still showered outside. Who could miss this opportuity.
This was our first Wilderness Camp and it was amazing. Our first night in the tent we could hear lions roaring, elephants moving through the trees, and I think I heard a hippo although I am not sure.
We met for tea and then out for the first game drive. On our first drive we found a small pride of lions with two females and cubs. The females had the cubs fairly well hidden but we had enough patience to wait for them to come out of the grass.
Even though this is a water camp we did see some wonderful game. We also spent one afternoon in a mokoro on the delta which was wonderful. It is amazing that all of this water dries up over the next few months. Seeing the little insects and animals that live in the delta is great.
We loved Kwetsani, its remote location and Shawn and Kim are the best.
As I said before Mala Mala was wonderful. I have been going through our pictures which I will post when they are done and they are pretty good, but besides that they are a visual reminder of this wonderful trip.
I would have to say that overall the sightings at Mala Mala were probably the best. There was not one day or night that we did not see wonderful animals.
Our next stop was Kwetsani.
We flew from to Johansburg where we spent the night. This actually worked out fine because we were able to leave a bag there with things from Cape Town which made our luggage much lighter.
From Johansburg we flew to Maun and then were picked up for the short flight to Kwetsani. This flight was in a big plane compared to the other planes. I think it held 12 people. Upon arrival at Maun we were picked up by our guide and taken to the boat dock for the 30 minute or so ride to the camp which is completely water based. The water level was pretty high and the roads were not available from the airport. This gave us our first glimpse of the delta. It was beautiful and just being out there was amazing.
Upon arrival at the camp we went through the typical conversation and signing of documents and were shown to our tent. I use the word "tent" very losely because the accomodations were wonderful. This is a fairly new camp and has double sink areas in the bathroon along with a shower inside and one outside Even though it was somewhat cold I still showered outside. Who could miss this opportuity.
This was our first Wilderness Camp and it was amazing. Our first night in the tent we could hear lions roaring, elephants moving through the trees, and I think I heard a hippo although I am not sure.
We met for tea and then out for the first game drive. On our first drive we found a small pride of lions with two females and cubs. The females had the cubs fairly well hidden but we had enough patience to wait for them to come out of the grass.
Even though this is a water camp we did see some wonderful game. We also spent one afternoon in a mokoro on the delta which was wonderful. It is amazing that all of this water dries up over the next few months. Seeing the little insects and animals that live in the delta is great.
We loved Kwetsani, its remote location and Shawn and Kim are the best.
Jul 11th, 2007, 07:38 AM
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Carol
Was it the tall, thin John who looks like Snoop Dawg, or the chunkier John? Both are great.
8AM does sound late to be going out, and there are not rangers out driving around spotting game. Reports do come in from workers on the property and in particular from the morning commuters, some of the staff reside in a nearby village and are driven into work each day. It's fun to read the old reports of the trackers biking home at the end of the day in the 20's and 30's.
When I've been during winter hours, breakfast was at 7, with drives going until 11 or so, then 3 for tea, with drive going until 7:30 and later.
We often take a continental breakfast and head out around 6:30 or 6:45 to maximize game viewing.
Was it the tall, thin John who looks like Snoop Dawg, or the chunkier John? Both are great.
8AM does sound late to be going out, and there are not rangers out driving around spotting game. Reports do come in from workers on the property and in particular from the morning commuters, some of the staff reside in a nearby village and are driven into work each day. It's fun to read the old reports of the trackers biking home at the end of the day in the 20's and 30's.
When I've been during winter hours, breakfast was at 7, with drives going until 11 or so, then 3 for tea, with drive going until 7:30 and later.
We often take a continental breakfast and head out around 6:30 or 6:45 to maximize game viewing.
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