Predator Biologist Report on Tanzania: Touched by a relative and more National Geographic Moments (includes photo link)
Mar 21st, 2008, 01:18 PM
#41
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill,
Your comment about the flow of an itinerary is so accurate. That’s one reason I’m struggling with moving Mahale from the end of my trip to the beginning. I think ending there will be a nice treat. Yours and Lynn’s comments about clear skies after rain are well taken. Plus, hiking in the mud really doesn’t sound so bad if it cuts the time in half (or more).
After reading your trip report, I don’t think I’ll be able to postpone Mahale for another trip, although I’d love to have you introduce me to your friend Orion! I do plan on going to Ngamba Island while in Uganda, but wasn’t planning on going to Kibale or on going chimp tracking in Rwanda. More importantly, another trip to Tanzania isn’t even in my thought process. I have so many other places on my travel wish list and generally only travel internationally once a year. I’ve been to the western and northern Serengeti and to the Crater in July/August. With the 2009 February/March trip to the southern Serengeti, I just can’t imagine I’ll be going back to Tanzania anytime soon after that.
Lynn,
Regarding pricing, the cost of getting to Mahale is a large part of what makes it so expensive. The flight can be $900- $1,000 round trip from Arusha, and if you get picked up in the Serengeti you can add another $250 or so. Bill, please correct me if I’m wrong on this. Over a 3 night stay, that’s already around $400/pppn before you factor in accommodations.
I’ve been following the permit question over the past few months, and it seems no decision has been made, either on whether they will be required or not, and if they are, when that requirement could go into affect. Because of the way the scheduled flights run (Monday and Thursday only), you either stay 3 nights or 4 nights. If you only get one permit per stay, I can’t imagine too many people will want to spend 3 or 4 nights there. I’m currently trying to find out if you can get in line to reserve a permit for each day of a trip (or at least each full day you’re there) so that if the rule does go into affect I’d be guaranteed no less than two treks during a 3 night stay.
Now I'm off to read the next installment.
Your comment about the flow of an itinerary is so accurate. That’s one reason I’m struggling with moving Mahale from the end of my trip to the beginning. I think ending there will be a nice treat. Yours and Lynn’s comments about clear skies after rain are well taken. Plus, hiking in the mud really doesn’t sound so bad if it cuts the time in half (or more).
After reading your trip report, I don’t think I’ll be able to postpone Mahale for another trip, although I’d love to have you introduce me to your friend Orion! I do plan on going to Ngamba Island while in Uganda, but wasn’t planning on going to Kibale or on going chimp tracking in Rwanda. More importantly, another trip to Tanzania isn’t even in my thought process. I have so many other places on my travel wish list and generally only travel internationally once a year. I’ve been to the western and northern Serengeti and to the Crater in July/August. With the 2009 February/March trip to the southern Serengeti, I just can’t imagine I’ll be going back to Tanzania anytime soon after that.
Lynn,
Regarding pricing, the cost of getting to Mahale is a large part of what makes it so expensive. The flight can be $900- $1,000 round trip from Arusha, and if you get picked up in the Serengeti you can add another $250 or so. Bill, please correct me if I’m wrong on this. Over a 3 night stay, that’s already around $400/pppn before you factor in accommodations.
I’ve been following the permit question over the past few months, and it seems no decision has been made, either on whether they will be required or not, and if they are, when that requirement could go into affect. Because of the way the scheduled flights run (Monday and Thursday only), you either stay 3 nights or 4 nights. If you only get one permit per stay, I can’t imagine too many people will want to spend 3 or 4 nights there. I’m currently trying to find out if you can get in line to reserve a permit for each day of a trip (or at least each full day you’re there) so that if the rule does go into affect I’d be guaranteed no less than two treks during a 3 night stay.
Now I'm off to read the next installment.
Mar 21st, 2008, 01:49 PM
#42
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PB
I cannot say I was disappointed in any part of our trip. This was our first trip to Africa; we really don't know how things are "supposed" to be... It is easy to be spoiled by the things we had seen earlier in our trip (Ndutu-Rwanda etc).
I bet you're right about Suyan being in a prime location. We had hopes of seeing the wild dogs in Loliondo ourselves having read one report about some sightings there.
Looking forward to additional chapters of your trip. I hope to start a list of things-to-do one day, and one of the things I plan to put on the list is to write a report of my trip to Africa. Thank you very much for taking the time to do such a good job on yours.
I have enjoyed all your photos, especially the caracal. I have to go back to Africa because I didnt see a serval, which was on my list of things-to-see.
dg
I cannot say I was disappointed in any part of our trip. This was our first trip to Africa; we really don't know how things are "supposed" to be... It is easy to be spoiled by the things we had seen earlier in our trip (Ndutu-Rwanda etc).
I bet you're right about Suyan being in a prime location. We had hopes of seeing the wild dogs in Loliondo ourselves having read one report about some sightings there.
Looking forward to additional chapters of your trip. I hope to start a list of things-to-do one day, and one of the things I plan to put on the list is to write a report of my trip to Africa. Thank you very much for taking the time to do such a good job on yours.
I have enjoyed all your photos, especially the caracal. I have to go back to Africa because I didnt see a serval, which was on my list of things-to-see.
dg
Mar 21st, 2008, 02:12 PM
#43
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill,
Another wonderful installment and photos.
Too bad Kirurumu was so disappointing. It’s good that you only had one night there.
Loliondo sounds beautiful. I’ve been exchanging emails with Eben and your description is exactly what I pictured from his recommendations. Suyan Camp sounds very nice, particularly your description of sleeping to the sound of the zebras and the camp’s remote location. Your photo of the landscape shows just how beautiful the area is. What that photo taken from Suyan Camp?
You were so lucky with your caracal sighting, and to have a glimpse of the migration before Ndutu must have been a treat for you and your guests. I love your description of the dog chase. It’s funny how the chase is half the fun. I’m glad you enjoyed the adventure even if you didn’t find the dogs. Overall it sounds like game viewing in Loliondo was actually quite good. Did you find that two nights here was enough, or if you had time would you have stayed a third night?
Great photos. Several wonderful bird shots, particularly those of the vultures. I also really enjoyed the golden jackal stretching, wildebeest nursing, and the giraffe garden. And thanks for the camp photos. Suyan was already on my short list for next year’s trip.
Davgai1,
I remember viewing your photos but don’t recall when exactly you were in the Loliondo area. Was it the middle of January?
Lynn,
You had me choking I was laughing so hard when I read your comments about the 8 legged zebra. Did I miss something, perhaps an inside joke? What is this about going to Burundi by mistake?
Thanks Bill for the great report.
Another wonderful installment and photos.
Too bad Kirurumu was so disappointing. It’s good that you only had one night there.
Loliondo sounds beautiful. I’ve been exchanging emails with Eben and your description is exactly what I pictured from his recommendations. Suyan Camp sounds very nice, particularly your description of sleeping to the sound of the zebras and the camp’s remote location. Your photo of the landscape shows just how beautiful the area is. What that photo taken from Suyan Camp?
You were so lucky with your caracal sighting, and to have a glimpse of the migration before Ndutu must have been a treat for you and your guests. I love your description of the dog chase. It’s funny how the chase is half the fun. I’m glad you enjoyed the adventure even if you didn’t find the dogs. Overall it sounds like game viewing in Loliondo was actually quite good. Did you find that two nights here was enough, or if you had time would you have stayed a third night?
Great photos. Several wonderful bird shots, particularly those of the vultures. I also really enjoyed the golden jackal stretching, wildebeest nursing, and the giraffe garden. And thanks for the camp photos. Suyan was already on my short list for next year’s trip.
Davgai1,
I remember viewing your photos but don’t recall when exactly you were in the Loliondo area. Was it the middle of January?
Lynn,
You had me choking I was laughing so hard when I read your comments about the 8 legged zebra. Did I miss something, perhaps an inside joke? What is this about going to Burundi by mistake?
Thanks Bill for the great report.
Mar 21st, 2008, 02:51 PM
#44
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dana,
When I first saw the photo that Predator had referred to as the 8-legged zebra, I thought it really was. I commented on it, along with his other fine pictures. I'll repeat those embarrassing comments:
"The 8-legged zebra was an adult so it made it that far in life. Did the extra legs just dangle when it walked and did it seem to get around ok? It was alone in your photo. Was it readily accepted by the herd?"
Duh, it was two zebras, one behind the next, and it really wasn't hard to see that. I had tunnel vision searching the slide show for the caracal and Predator had written it would be found after the 8-legged zebra picture. I was focused on finding an 8-legged zebra, just like Predator said.
The Burundi comment is because one delightful Fodorite, Imelda, described the journey she and her husband took in East Africa. It included the gorillas and they accidentally got off the plane in Burundi and did not realize it until they had purchased a visa. Her account of it was hilarious and everything worked out fine in the end and they left Burundi on the same plane. I'll see if I can find her report link.
Not only did tunnel vision make me see an 8-legged zebra, but I also once mistook a stranger of a different race for my husband due to this phenomenon.
I was home sick and feverish so I was resting in only undies. My husband went out for a walk, wearing a baseball hat and a jacket. A little later I heard a knock on our door. I looked out of the peephole and could see a guy in a cap sorting through some letters. My mind told me it was my husband, who had stopped for the mail, and I figured he didn't have his keys so I opened the door and said, "Come on in." In walked the FedEx guy who was delivering some envelopes.
I apologized profusely and he just nonchalantly continued to conduct the transaction, where I had to sign something, from outside the door. I had expected my Caucasian husband in a baseball hat with the mail and that's what my eyes saw. In reality it was a younger, dark skinned man who looked nothing like my husband, but he had a FedEx cap on and was performing the task I anticipated--sorting through envelopes.
For that fiasco I can blame the fever. I have no excuse for the zebra.
When I first saw the photo that Predator had referred to as the 8-legged zebra, I thought it really was. I commented on it, along with his other fine pictures. I'll repeat those embarrassing comments:
"The 8-legged zebra was an adult so it made it that far in life. Did the extra legs just dangle when it walked and did it seem to get around ok? It was alone in your photo. Was it readily accepted by the herd?"
Duh, it was two zebras, one behind the next, and it really wasn't hard to see that. I had tunnel vision searching the slide show for the caracal and Predator had written it would be found after the 8-legged zebra picture. I was focused on finding an 8-legged zebra, just like Predator said.
The Burundi comment is because one delightful Fodorite, Imelda, described the journey she and her husband took in East Africa. It included the gorillas and they accidentally got off the plane in Burundi and did not realize it until they had purchased a visa. Her account of it was hilarious and everything worked out fine in the end and they left Burundi on the same plane. I'll see if I can find her report link.
Not only did tunnel vision make me see an 8-legged zebra, but I also once mistook a stranger of a different race for my husband due to this phenomenon.
I was home sick and feverish so I was resting in only undies. My husband went out for a walk, wearing a baseball hat and a jacket. A little later I heard a knock on our door. I looked out of the peephole and could see a guy in a cap sorting through some letters. My mind told me it was my husband, who had stopped for the mail, and I figured he didn't have his keys so I opened the door and said, "Come on in." In walked the FedEx guy who was delivering some envelopes.
I apologized profusely and he just nonchalantly continued to conduct the transaction, where I had to sign something, from outside the door. I had expected my Caucasian husband in a baseball hat with the mail and that's what my eyes saw. In reality it was a younger, dark skinned man who looked nothing like my husband, but he had a FedEx cap on and was performing the task I anticipated--sorting through envelopes.
For that fiasco I can blame the fever. I have no excuse for the zebra.
Mar 21st, 2008, 03:05 PM
#45
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dana M,
The link, if I have done this right, to OnlyMeOirish's trip report, "Imelda's African Adventure," is
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34852537
Read to the bottom part, "The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men Often go Awry!" of her first (8/12/2006) entry. I think it's one of the more entertaining and potentially frightening stories on the Forum.
The link, if I have done this right, to OnlyMeOirish's trip report, "Imelda's African Adventure," is
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34852537
Read to the bottom part, "The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men Often go Awry!" of her first (8/12/2006) entry. I think it's one of the more entertaining and potentially frightening stories on the Forum.
Mar 21st, 2008, 03:58 PM
#46
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lynn,
I read your post, every word of it, but I thought you were joking. I laughed all the way through it. However, I was laughing with you, not at you. Are you now really serious...that you thought that zebra had eight legs, or are you pulling my leg? I have four.
The FedEx story is hilarious. Thanks for my second great chuckle of the day.
I read your post, every word of it, but I thought you were joking. I laughed all the way through it. However, I was laughing with you, not at you. Are you now really serious...that you thought that zebra had eight legs, or are you pulling my leg? I have four.
The FedEx story is hilarious. Thanks for my second great chuckle of the day.
Mar 21st, 2008, 04:20 PM
#47
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hguy47,
Thanks for that link. The next time I have a mishap at an airport I'll think of the start of Imelda's trip. That should put things into perspective for sure.
Bill,
Sorry for the hijack. I just had to know what that Burundi story was all about.
Thanks for that link. The next time I have a mishap at an airport I'll think of the start of Imelda's trip. That should put things into perspective for sure.
Bill,
Sorry for the hijack. I just had to know what that Burundi story was all about.
Mar 27th, 2008, 10:58 PM
#48
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill-
I've only read your first trip report with Mahale, we were there following your group, probably by a few days. (My sister was stuck in Dar es Salaam for 8 hours due to Bush flying to Arusha!) It was fun to read your report, Greystoke was an amazing experience with the accomadations, chimps, and locatin.
I'm curious about your snorkling experience. At first we were told snorkling was not longer allowed due to a run in with a crocodile. My husband who works with the cichlid fish in Lake Tanganyika was in heaven and couldn't stay away from the water! So reading your experience with snorkeling, I"m only curious how it worked for your group. After much conversation with Doug and the "corporate office" we were finally able to go snorkeling to view fish. We were taken to a cove also and it was amazing! Now it's a matter of returning... : )
I've only read your first trip report with Mahale, we were there following your group, probably by a few days. (My sister was stuck in Dar es Salaam for 8 hours due to Bush flying to Arusha!) It was fun to read your report, Greystoke was an amazing experience with the accomadations, chimps, and locatin.
I'm curious about your snorkling experience. At first we were told snorkling was not longer allowed due to a run in with a crocodile. My husband who works with the cichlid fish in Lake Tanganyika was in heaven and couldn't stay away from the water! So reading your experience with snorkeling, I"m only curious how it worked for your group. After much conversation with Doug and the "corporate office" we were finally able to go snorkeling to view fish. We were taken to a cove also and it was amazing! Now it's a matter of returning... : )
Apr 2nd, 2008, 08:52 PM
#51
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Dana, thanks for bumping this back up often times I need a little jump start -- sorry to everyone for the delay between postings.
I was away for Easter followed by taking my daughter to a couple of national parks for her Spring break and then we arrived home to get nailed by the flu so I'm on the slow mend to recovery and quite behind on work but hopefully I will post the next segment over the weekend. Good news is I have made it through most of my pictures so ready to roll there with the rest of the story.
Luster: so glad to hear that you also had a brilliant experience at Greystoke -- truly a unique and special place. Too bad your sister was thrown by the Bush visit, had to be a frustrating 8 hours in Dar.
When we arrived we were told the same thing about the snorkeling, that due to crocs they no longer did the outing by boat but that we were welcome to snorkel at the rocks to the side of the camp. However, for our last afternoon we all said we wanted to boat and snorkel and they just said o.k. the boat leaves at 4:30, no discussion at all. We did go to the magical cove, same place I'm sure. Doug and the crew did a once around looking for crocs then anchored and gave us the o.k. The crew stayed on the boat and on rocks near the best snorkeling and watched for danger. I never gave it a second thought and the snorkeling was wonderful!
That is fascinating that your husband works with the Lake Tanganyika cichlids, I would love to hear more about that as well as your experience with the chimps. Feel free to email me direct if that is better communicated off of the public message board.
Up next ... coming within a few days
I was away for Easter followed by taking my daughter to a couple of national parks for her Spring break and then we arrived home to get nailed by the flu so I'm on the slow mend to recovery and quite behind on work but hopefully I will post the next segment over the weekend. Good news is I have made it through most of my pictures so ready to roll there with the rest of the story.
Luster: so glad to hear that you also had a brilliant experience at Greystoke -- truly a unique and special place. Too bad your sister was thrown by the Bush visit, had to be a frustrating 8 hours in Dar.
When we arrived we were told the same thing about the snorkeling, that due to crocs they no longer did the outing by boat but that we were welcome to snorkel at the rocks to the side of the camp. However, for our last afternoon we all said we wanted to boat and snorkel and they just said o.k. the boat leaves at 4:30, no discussion at all. We did go to the magical cove, same place I'm sure. Doug and the crew did a once around looking for crocs then anchored and gave us the o.k. The crew stayed on the boat and on rocks near the best snorkeling and watched for danger. I never gave it a second thought and the snorkeling was wonderful!
That is fascinating that your husband works with the Lake Tanganyika cichlids, I would love to hear more about that as well as your experience with the chimps. Feel free to email me direct if that is better communicated off of the public message board.
Up next ... coming within a few days
Apr 3rd, 2008, 08:43 AM
#52
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lynn-It wasn't very subtle, but it worked 
Sorry for the "pressure" Bill. None intended. Well, maybe a little. I just can't wait to hear how the Serengeti was. Having the flu stinks. I'm glad you're on the road to recovery.
Sorry for the "pressure" Bill. None intended. Well, maybe a little. I just can't wait to hear how the Serengeti was. Having the flu stinks. I'm glad you're on the road to recovery.
Apr 7th, 2008, 11:47 PM
#53
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
O.K. I still have not had time to write since I got myself sidetracked on the cheetah conservation thread but I have finally finished getting all the photos up online. I had posted Mahale, Manyara, and Suyan previously but I think everything shows better on this new hosting site. There are 3 additional albums covering the rest of the trip that had not been shown before: Gol Kopjes, Ndutu and the Crater.
http://bgiven.zenfolio.com/
Enjoy the pics and I will try and finish the write up soon.
http://bgiven.zenfolio.com/
Enjoy the pics and I will try and finish the write up soon.
Apr 9th, 2008, 12:00 PM
#54
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lionesses and cubs, mother cheetahs with cubs, the male cheetah hunt and kill, and arriving at Gol Kopjes to suddenly see thousands and thousands of wildebeest march into the area, well that says it all. I needed a fix to curb my impatience for next year, and this was it. Thank you.
Wonderful photos. The phrase "a picture is worth a thousand words" is quite appropriate right now. Your photos really do tell the perfect story. They show the incredible diversity of wildlife you saw, everything from such a variety of birds to a lion in a tree, all the big cats, the line of wildebeests, and oh, the cheetahs. You were really in the right place at the right time, weren’t you?
This was the first safari for your guests, right? If so, you have definitely spoiled them for their next safari!
The cheetah conservation thread was a good reason to get sidetracked.
Thanks again for posting the photos. They satisfied the cravings of an addict having withdrawls.
Wonderful photos. The phrase "a picture is worth a thousand words" is quite appropriate right now. Your photos really do tell the perfect story. They show the incredible diversity of wildlife you saw, everything from such a variety of birds to a lion in a tree, all the big cats, the line of wildebeests, and oh, the cheetahs. You were really in the right place at the right time, weren’t you?
This was the first safari for your guests, right? If so, you have definitely spoiled them for their next safari!
The cheetah conservation thread was a good reason to get sidetracked.
Thanks again for posting the photos. They satisfied the cravings of an addict having withdrawls.
Apr 9th, 2008, 04:14 PM
#55
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you have cheetah conservation written on your excuse for tardiness, then all is well.
Your photo website is great. I was getting hypnotized by the motion of the loading shots. It really displays them well.
When you go to Gol Kopjes, you expect to see some kopjes. They were upstaged only by the wonderful lion family interaction that took place on them. Nice agama pose too.
I saw the caracal peeking at me again and my friend, the 8-legged zebra. She has a cousin in Ngorongoro--the 2-headed male lion!
A great collection from primates to birds flying and the smaller predators.
Your photo website is great. I was getting hypnotized by the motion of the loading shots. It really displays them well.
When you go to Gol Kopjes, you expect to see some kopjes. They were upstaged only by the wonderful lion family interaction that took place on them. Nice agama pose too.
I saw the caracal peeking at me again and my friend, the 8-legged zebra. She has a cousin in Ngorongoro--the 2-headed male lion!
A great collection from primates to birds flying and the smaller predators.
Jun 3rd, 2008, 07:55 AM
#58
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry for the delay in finishing this everyone! My very time sensitive proposal for Botswana predator/livestock conflict project is almost complete and then I hope to get back to finish this.
Jun 3rd, 2008, 03:11 PM
#59
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 4,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PB
i very much appreciated your report!
especially the mahale-greystoke part because that's in the pipeline for 2009
also your report on suyan (asilia lodges) was enjoyable. one of our favourite in TZ!
what was extremly devastating: your report on the dogs!
when i read it i could not avoid tears running down my cheeks. it's so so sad!
it's absolitely disturbing that obviously the wildlife service and NGO's like "frankfurter zoologische gesellschaft" - which is so actively involved for decades cannot get the value of these animals into the massai heads....despite the compensation payments for liftstock loss.
i very much appreciated your report!
especially the mahale-greystoke part because that's in the pipeline for 2009
also your report on suyan (asilia lodges) was enjoyable. one of our favourite in TZ!
what was extremly devastating: your report on the dogs!
when i read it i could not avoid tears running down my cheeks. it's so so sad!
it's absolitely disturbing that obviously the wildlife service and NGO's like "frankfurter zoologische gesellschaft" - which is so actively involved for decades cannot get the value of these animals into the massai heads....despite the compensation payments for liftstock loss.
Jun 4th, 2008, 05:05 PM
#60
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For those who don't believe in 8 legged Zebras, here's living proof here: ;-)
http://africaddict.smugmug.com/galle...51770762_br82M
Cheers
Marc
http://africaddict.smugmug.com/galle...51770762_br82M
Cheers
Marc
