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Planning first trip to Africa overwhelmed – need help!

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Old Nov 10th, 2010, 10:50 AM
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Hi Helen,

I'm afraid you make the mistake all of us make the first time; you're trying to squeeze in too much!

As I said before; I don't think you should add Botswana or Vic Falls to South Africa. You will lose more time traveling than actually seeing stuff. Don't forget this is Africa. Getting somewhere takes time and the place is big.

I've been to Botswana and did the Okavango Delta (Moremi), Khwai, Savuti, Chobe and the falls. See here for the trip report;
http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...ic.php?t=37455

You need to skip to day 9 of the report for info on Chobe.

If you go to Chobe for only two nights that means you only get ONE REAL SAFARI DAY. That basically means one boat ride before noon, and one safari drive in the afternoon. That means you are stuck in the eastern part of Chobe, which is overcrowded (it only has a few tracks close to the river and everybody is driving there) and contains far less predators than the western part. We even met people in one of the lodges in the east part who had not seen any lion in 3 days and were told they could not see zebra either "as there were none in the park". Of course, we had seen plenty at the other end of Chobe.

Our day trip to Vic Falls is day 11 of that trip report. I'm not going to repeat it all here but just stick to the conclusion; Vic Falls is a tourist trap and a very big disappointment. Plz read the report to know why.

I can understand that if you haven't seen it, that you'd want to go there. But seriously; you should not make a huge detour for it (ic from South Africa to the falls & back to Jo'Burg or something). It is absolutely NOT worth it. Keep Vic Falls for when you do a real safari in Botswana (ic not two nights like you consider doing now).

I've seen plenty of good advice here for a fantastic trip, including affordable lodges around Kruger. I just saw that someone mentioned Umkumbe in Sabi Sands. That is actually a great tip.
Here's something I found out myself just this week; Brett, the guy that handles booking for Africa On Foot and nThembo apparently also does stuff for Umkumbe. So if you send AOF a mail for an enquiry, you can save the money you'd have spent on a TA, you can ask him for info on AOF/nThambo as well as Umkumbe, and perhaps even arrange a package deal (that will depend on the length of your stay I guess).

I mean, with a package like that (say AOF + Umkumbe for example), I can assure you that you will have the trip of a lifetime. Way better than spending two days taking flights to here and there + a day being stuck at the Zim borders (and 2 hours at the falls, duh) + a few meager game drives in the east of Chobe.

Ciao,

J.
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Old Nov 10th, 2010, 12:44 PM
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Helen,

Just so you know, Brett, the person mentioned in the above post is a travel agent. His name is Brett Thompson and he owns Sun Safaris in Cape Town. So you would not be cutting out an agent to book with him. He is an excellent safari planner and a good friend of mine. I traveled to Namibia with him in 2007 for ten days and chat with him often and see him every time I am in Cape Town. Brett is also one of the most knowledgeable agents for Footsteps in Africa and Desert & Delta if you are interested in those two companies for your Botswana safari.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 03:40 AM
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Yes, sorry if I had not been clear. I ment to say that by contacting Brett you can skip a local (in your case US) TA, of course.

Note as well that if you write to the email addresses of AOF, nThembo, etc... you get him. ;-)
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 08:29 AM
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Pixelpower,
Thank you so much for your post! I am really undecided what I want to do for this part of the trip.
I am pretty set with the Cape Town part, and Elephant Plaines, but still keep my options open for the remaining days.
My main argument is that I do not know when I will be back to Africa, so wanted to see the falls. I know that most of people suggested against it, and normally I follow Fodorites advice, but I am still undecided here.
I was reading about the Falls, and I see a lot acitivities in this area, that sounds like fun and different experience – first Zimbabwean side (if I do no stay there), Zambezi river cruise, microflight (sp) over the falls… Still not worth it?

On the other hand, I never been to safari, so I am not sure what to expect. I know most of the people fall in love with it, so will I (probably). However, one of my close friends came back underwhelmed with her experience at Elephant plains, stating she was bored between the game drives. And she love her day trip to Chobe.
So, I thought I should try different things. Anyway, I am still undecided.
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 08:56 AM
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Helen - I'm very happy we went to Vic Falls. We stayed at the Vic Falls Hotel, and it's the closest hotel to the falls. We didn't find it tourist trappy at all. There's a reason so many people go. My nephew did the zip line thing and had a blast.

I have not been to Elephant Plains. Everyone says it's a good value. But, I chose Arathusa as they have a water hole and bigger traversing rights. I also heard they have a new chef, and the food is much better (one of the gripes many had in the past). It's a little more expensive (not a lot), but we loved watching the animals stop by for a drink during the day from our room. They were updating it while we were there last year.

You are trying to do a lot in a short time. We did the same thing on our first trip, also thinking it would be our only time. I'm glad we did as my mother will not be able to go back. Our trip with her is one of her fondest travel memories, as the experiences were all unforgettable.
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 09:03 AM
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I just wanted to add, that the plan to stay around the Falls (not the day trip) - Zambian side, Zimbabwean side, Zambezi cruise, maybe a flight over the falls... Not sure, if this makes it better, but just wanted to clarify...
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 11:55 AM
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Dear Helen, I'm adding my two cents, but its just something for you to consider. Your friend's comments do sound like a worry. I would be nervous about going anyplace where someone (anyone) said they were bored. However, I'm not sure that going to that place and then adding on another place to compensate (Vic Falls) is the answer. Maybe you should just spend the Vic Falls money and upgrade your safari experience to someplace that you are sure to love. In my opinion, a waterfall is just a waterfall - Victoria or no. I've been to Niagara and many other big falls. Yes they are pretty, but then what? After the first few minutes, its not like the falls do anything. The animals on safari however are amazing....there is nothing like it anywhere else in the world. I predict that you will fall in love with safari and might regret taking time away to watch water plunge over rocks.
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 02:48 PM
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Hi Helen - just adding my 2 cents. I put a cheat sheet together for my niece who is planning to travel to SA soon - so I will copy/paste. We also traveled in May to South Africa (this past May). Stopover in Zurich on the way - not a problem. We had about 9 hours and had access to Swissair club - you might want to consider buying daypass if you're going to have a major layover.
I registered us at the State Department website with our stay locations noted and gave a copy of our entire itinerary (pdf of the whole thing 30 pages of confirmations, etc., to family).
Made sure I had copy of Consul info with me and SA emergency numbers. (police, etc)
Our insurance through husband's work had international coverage so we didn’t have to get any. You should definitely check your health insurance carrier and see if they offer a cheap rider.
Didn’t take out trip insurance.
Didn’t buy crazy chemical insect repellant – planned to get it in SA – glad we didn’t bother (used local brand, locals think the hefty kill-everything stuff is nuts).
Malaria medicine… we took for a while, but did not run into any mosquitoes or get stung at all, so to avoid the headaches that were pretty bad by the time we left, we quit taking it.
We did take the full dose of shots ahead of time. You can usually get them through your county health department very reasonably priced.
Rand – only currency we used. No dollars as some sites said. We did use moneybelts. We each took a a set of 2 different charge cards, and a couple of bank cards, one in pocket or purse or wallet and different card with cash card, cash, passports, etc. in money belt. (Your bank will give you second cash card with a different number - you can use the same password - you may have to pay a small fee, but it's nice to have a back-up, I've been on a trip when the machine ate my card and kept it. I never travel without a 2nd one now).
Bought z18 video cam Kodak – excellent, hi-def, etc. Read the review - amazing piece of equipment for the price and we got some great animal videos with it. Practice ahead of time!
Binnoculars – ok but could have gotten by without
Bought quad-band cell phone online with Amazon for about $80 and then got vodaphone sim card ($30) and hook-up and minutes ($1 or so per minute max depending where you call) I bought about $50 worth while were there for 3 weeks and we called my folks once (and called them again along with a call to our daughter at the airport before we left to use up our minutes – so 3 international calls), in addition to using for reservations etc. while we were there (there is a vodaphone store at the Waterfront Mall – so you can wait until you get to waterfront if you stay near there).

Cape Town

Get to Downtown from airport
Used EZ Shuttle – reserve online, very reliable, good price
Stayed at Westin Grand Capetown.
There are many other places close to the Waterfront.
I’d recommend at least a couple of nights stay at Waterfront or close-by just because you can get to so may of the sites easily from there.

Most hotels at the waterfront had free shuttle to Waterfront – another plus staying there - so that got you to Blue Bus/Red Bus, Roebben Island Tour, restaurants, etc. DO NOT Walk to Waterfront from hotel.
Easy meal (I like to know about a few places you can just go because you're tired and you don't want to bother with anything) – Waterfront Good FRESH seafood dinner at Willoughbys $30 to $70 gets you at least 3 glasses of wine or beer per person, entrees and appetizers depending upon what you order. Is it Cape Town's best - no, far from it, but it's reasonable, incredibly tasty and fresh fish, and it's easy on those nights you've been out all day and just want to not think about where to have dinner!
Do an African Dinner at one of the local spots. There are, of course, many incredible restaurants in Cape Town.
Great little place (whole foods are just starting to become hip here) – Melissa’s in Waterfront for quick wholesome lunch (soup, sandwich, or salad), or to buy quarts of water…
Also Grocery shop at Pic ‘n Pay in Waterfront – Water, wine, beer, snacks, fruit, etc
Good selection and reasonable prices on souvenirs at the large barn-like building at Waterfront – can’t remember name… large beaded animal sculptures out front. You’ll be able to get some things on your tours and at other markets.
Green Street Market in Business District is good
Watch for pick-pockets - they wait for the drawbridge at Waterfront to go up and unsuspecting tourists to flock around the bridge, some will harass you while you wait to cross. When the bridge went down, I watched the pick-pockets head for the crowds on the bridge. They were almost salivating!!
From Waterfront area visited the major sites in Capetown (staying on the Ocean is nice – but getting anywhere is either by rented car or cab… expensive from ocean sites – talked to others who stayed on Ocean – regretted being so far from downtown attractions).
Aquarium – so so, OK – but if you've been to Monterrey, etc. it won't be very exciting, but the mix of oceans part is interesting…
Roebbens – very good!
Table Mtn - a must, we took cab to and from
Kirstenchbosch Gardens – a must, we took blue bus, I would have gotten a private tour if I’d known how much I would love it, but I love plants and was enthralled by the fact that so many plants here are related to/similar to plants of South Africa.
BoKaap - a must
Andulela is one of the best tour agencies for that.
Our guide on BoKaap was Sabelo Maku
(I took a “cooking safari” tour to the BoKapp neighborhood in the home of a local resident, tour a spice shop, and a meat shop, and the BoKaap museum - a must at $70 per person – half day (10AM to about 1:30 or 2PM)
Also offer a township tour that might be good – not sure if they go to Distr 6 museum. They weren't offering one the day we were open to go.
http://www.andulela.com/english/index.html

Township Tour – (combine with District 6 museum?) - we did this and felt a bit uncomfortable at parts of it - we didn't go into some of the homes because we felt it was too intrusive. However, the shabeen, and the Bed and Breakfast part, along with the District 6 museum - I would not have missed.
Shop in the business district area - a must for some of us!
Museums and sites in BusDistr area… I visited a few - good, but if you don't have time...

We rented a car and drove to Cape Point & Cape of Good Hope – give yourself a day, start early.

Car Rental – we used Hertz since we have GoldCard membership and they don’t charge extra for spouses to rent car with the Gold card ($50 US… pays for itself after about 2 rentals and they have the car ready for you to pick up when you arrive at US locations, since you're driving on US license - you will need to go through the regular rental process in SA, but the agency was unbelievable and you get better treatment with a goldcard there than you do here by a mile!). I’d use mainline company if you rent. A number of the SA agencies are less than honest. Get full coverage insurance. We also rented a GPS. From what I understand – some folks buy a GPS there thinking they’ll bring it back and use it – but downloading US maps is tricky and it may end up not working here.

From the Cape we drove to Hermanus and it was a beautiful drive along the bay. But really there isn't much when you get to Hermanus since the whales arrive in December and leave shortly after.
See the Penguins on False Bay - a must. Hermanus is charming and the ocean is beautiful there.
We should have perhaps stayed on False Bay around Muizenburg maybe??? Then back up to winecountry.

Used Booking.com to book hotels outside of Cape Town – best prices. And absolutely no problems with any of the reservations.

Stayed at Harbour House Hotel in Hermanus $100 – in the midst of everything, enclosed parking – safe. May is off season so we had a beautiful room with an ocean view.

From there back to main highway then across plains and mountains – incredible drive to Francshoek/definitely recommend wine country.
2 restaurants - delicious - Rubens and Le Bon Vivant many many many others!

Stayed at Plumwood Inn – again great price. $135?
Close to downtown Franschoek, etc, but we drove most everywhere – safety.

Got a guide with car to tour the wineries. Best way in our estimation. Guide will get reduced fees from wineries and you don't have to worry about how to find them.

Drove back to CapeTown airport to return car.
We took SA Air to Joburg.

Hotel Johannesburg Airport - one night
Garden Court O.R. Tambo International
Southern Sun Hotels
OK Hotel – clean, good breakfast, Irish Pub haha good bar food and braii, reasonable price. We did not do any Joburg sites and felt we made the right decision after talking to folks who lived there who said they had difficulty entertaining friends who visit them there... I'm sure the museums, etc., are nice, but with limited time, we just made the decision to skip that.

$25 shuttle ride to and from hotel
A bit out of the way to catch shuttle at the airport, but folks will direct you. And it was nice to be close and have realible transportation to and from airport.

Rented car next morning to drive to Sabie Valley and Kruger. Yes, you can fly - but PLEASE NOTE - SOME OF THE SMALLER CARRIERS LIMIT YOUR LUGGAGE SIZE to 25 or 30 lbs. We travel a lot and don't pack huge bags, but with souveniers, etc., 40 lbs adds up quick.

Got off on state highway across to Sabie – beautiful drive through “mountains” R540 to Lydenburg and the R37 to Sabie.

In Sabie Valley stayed for 2 nights.. a bit pushed
Stayed at Porcupine Ridge – you can contact them directly through their website / then at their email.
John and Janet were great and they have 2 goldens that are fantastic hosts also! Good breakfast, great at providing info on the sites and getting you to restaurants for your evening meals, etc.

While we stayed there - we went to Blyde River Canyon sites and waterfalls - a must
Pancakes and art at Harries in Graskopf - a must
Pilgrams Rest a bit touristy - could have done without

Drove from there to Kruger through Hazyview. Stopped at Sabie Coffee Plantation on R37 along the way to buy coffee and gorgeous little handcarved coffee scoops for about $8 each (great gifts!) simple, nice
There are some tribal locations around this area Hazyview – Shauguana Cultural Village that offer visits for tribal events and I wish we had had time… something to think about.

Did a quick morning self-drive through Kruger from Phabenie Gate out Paul Kruger Gate. Expensive to get in (not sure we told them the right thing), but worth the self drive experience- we saw giraffes which we didn't see on our safari!

Then we drove to our safari lodge. Be sure to carry Rand for entrance into reserve areas. State fees of $20 to $30 … and save card to get stamped by lodge to get out without paying again.

Reservations agent we used at
mtbeds of South Africa was Chantal Cairns
great website and good pricing for hotels and safari
if you look at the site – the prices quoted are for SA residents.
Charge outsiders more.
http://www.mtbeds.co.za/
But they will quote you prices for non-resident status. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH - Regardless what agent you call - you will not get the best price. I methodically created a spreadsheet with 5 lodges we were interested in visiting. I gave those locations to 4 different agents (1 US agent, 2 SA agents - all highly recommended on all of the travel websites) and the mtbeds agent in SA. THE MTBEDS AGENT CAME BACK WITH PRICES WHICH WERE $150 TO $300 PER PERSON PER NIGHT LESS than the next closest agent on EVERY LOCATION. We saved $1800 over an agent price by using mtbeds.
Here is their info
Chantal Cairns
Reservation Consultant

• t: +27 11 921 0471
• f: +27 86 687 9141

• c: +27 826020727
• e: [email protected]

Misc.
3 to 5 rands for car protection
Pilgrims Rest – if you go - be sure to tell the roving locals - no car wash! Our Guest House Hosts warned us of this.
Breakfast is included at most places – they expect a bit of a tip (3 to 5 rand)
We tipped 15% on restaurant meals
10 to 15% cab
Caught cabs at hotel generally
Hope that helps.
j
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 04:09 PM
  #69  
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Jwed writes: <i>"Binoculars – ok but could have gotten by without"</i>

No way! I'm gobsmacked by this. Used ours constantly.
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 07:55 PM
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We did use them - but we were the only ones out of 7 in our group who did. I was using my camera, my husband had the video. The binocs were around my neck. Photography of one sort or another was our first choice. But, yes - we did use them and we did love having them. But, the other folks in our group seemed to have an absolutely marvelous time without the binoculars. And I'm sure they wouldn't say the success of their trip hinged upon it. So, as a point of economics and packing, I felt I offered a non-biased point of view.
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 07:13 PM
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Thank you so much again for all your feedback! It is amazing... I really apreciate it a lot!
Jwed, I think you did my homework... I just need to print this off and follow it... The amount of information is incredible!

TC, my main reasoning for going to the falls, was not so much the falls, but rather the activities around it. I have no doubts I will love the safari at Sabi Sand. However, I thought the activities around the falls would be a different experience - like microlight flight, Zambezi river with swimming animals, and a glimpse of Chobe (my friend described it as Jurrassic park, so many animals they saw). This was the reasoning, but now, I am more and more thinking of staying in SA. Basically, the plan is ready - 6 days around Cape Town, then 1 for Blyde Canyon, then 3 nights at Elephant Plains, and ???? This part is still undecided...
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 07:22 PM
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Another gobsmacked by the lack of binoc use. No need for top of the line binoculars, though.

How many days for your ???? ?
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 08:30 PM
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Atravelynn, I will have Sept, 14 thru Sept 18 (leaving on this day at night from Jo'burg for my ????
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 10:30 PM
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jwed - lots of good info, thanks.
Good reminder to check your medical insurance, some policies do not cover you out of country (USA).
Am filing info on how you did cell phone.
I would (and have) stayed at hotel in the Emperors Palace Complex, a short FREE shuttle ride from JRO.
You used mtbeds, good to know I've heard of them. You saved $1,800 or $4,800 with them? ($4,800 in another post?)

regards - tom
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 10:47 PM
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I'm with TC (twice, lol).

1) The falls are just that; falls. Really not worth to lose two days over. The activities around it are just to shape things up a bit, but in my they don't add much value.
Besides, I wonder how much time you'll have to do those activities. It all depends on where you stay, I guess:
- If you stay at the Zim (or perhaps even Zam) side; then I guess you'll have time enough. On the other hand; you would be even further away from Bots/Chobe and spend a lot of time getting there (and I'd choose the Chobe waterfront over the falls any time!)
- If you stay at the Bots side then you would probably be in the lodges in the east of Chobe, which means you will be able to maximize game drive time (but do note my remark on getting away from that side, towards the west side). However, then you'd need to do the falls as a day-trip and I can assure you; you'll spend more time at the border than at the falls. So you will feel like you've ended in a tourist trap and you will not have the time to do those other activities.

Seriously; I'd drop the falls. Side tip; Iguazu falls in Brasil/Argentina is much more beautiful. Now THAT is worth a trip!

2) going on safari without binos is like making love without a lover. Just make sure you have a decent pair. They have these numbers that say "8x40" (or similar). The first number is the magnification. Don't exagerate on that 8x or 10x is enough. The second number corresponds with the actual size of the circle of light that falls on your eyes. Ic 40 = 4mm. The bigger this number the better (or otherwise put; the easier it is to see them without developing a headache). However; the bigger that number, the larger the binos tend to be. So there's a trade off. To test binos while in the store, do NOT focus on what you see through the shop window, outside on the street. Instead, focus on the darkest corner in the store and check if the binos are able to pass that info to your eyes.

I've seen some more good tips regarding Sabi Sands (ic Arathusa). Here's a map that shows traversing rights;
http://www.sabisand.co.za/ssw-map.html
If I were you, I'd stick to a good safari for the second part of your holiday. Pick a Sabi Sands lodge, then rough it up juuuust a little bit and as a second safari destination take a bush camp (or tented camp) style lodge nearby. You'll love the personal attention, and the fact that you get that close to nature.

B;regs,

Jochen
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Old Nov 17th, 2010, 01:52 PM
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Tag for future information.

I'm just starting to look into a December 2011 trip and appreciate the wealth of information here! Thanks all!
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Old Nov 20th, 2010, 05:09 PM
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I wanted to follow up on our discussion regarding AA miles. WE talked about if people can get bonus miles for new VISA AA card, if they already had previously other AA credit cards with the Citibank (like Master Card and AA Amex). So, I just want to confirm, that I already got bonus miles on new VISA card, and I also own AA Master Card and AA Amex.

Anyway, the tickets are booked with miles ORD -> CPT and JNB-> ORD. A free ticket now costs $497 (!!!) with new BA fuel surchanrges and taxes... Oh, well, I still save a lot of money with this.

So, just need to make the decision on last 4 days (Falls or no Falls), and the plan will be done
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Old Nov 20th, 2010, 08:34 PM
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Old Nov 21st, 2010, 06:37 AM
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For ???

How about stay in Chobe and take a day trip to the falls? I understand how you'd want to see a well known landmark like Victoria Falls when you are so close. I found a couple of hours viewing the falls to be sufficient and a day trip there would provide that.

The animal life around Chobe and what you can see from a Chobe River cruise is tremendous. This river offers an abundance that is unique.

I like aknards rule 1) and 2).
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Old Nov 21st, 2010, 07:27 AM
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<i>Anyway, the tickets are booked with miles ORD -> CPT and JNB-> ORD. A free ticket now costs $497 (!!!) with new BA fuel surchanrges and taxes... Oh, well, I still save a lot of money with this.

So, just need to make the decision on last 4 days (Falls or no Falls), and the plan will be done </i>

If your final decision entails flying from/to LVI or VFA as part of a Victoria Falls and/or Botswana itinerary, phone AA and see about just having your award modified to go LVI/VFA>JNB>ORD on the return, assuming there's no stopover at JNB on the outbound. The change fee (probably $150) is likely to be cheaper than the cost of supplemental tickets.
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