Phinda, Londolozi, Ngala Tented, Sept. 2006, trip report
Nov 14th, 2006 | 12:45 PM
#22
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 0
CW: great report, I'm looking forward to your closing remarks. Ngala sounds like an intimate experience with more of a wilderness feel than the Sabi Sands perhaps -- that is the kind of camp that I relish. Did you hear anything about wild dogs while at Ngala? I know they used to be pretty regularly sighted but had disappeared for a good while before showing up a couple months ago but I don't know if they are frequenting the area again or not.
Nov 14th, 2006 | 02:18 PM
#24
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 0
Lifelist:
Yes the costs of transfers are ambiguous, and I’m embarrassed to admit they are ambiguous to me.
I booked through CCAfrica to stay at their camps, and never asked for a breakdown of costs. I was taking advantage of their multiple night discounts and hadn’t read enough on this board to know that I could and should do things differently. After all, it started as the trip of a lifetime. Ha, ha—little did I know it was just, I hope, the beginning.
I can tell you the whole trip, air transfers JNB-Phinda, Phinda-Londolozi, Londolozi-Ngala, Ngala-JNB, 4 nights Phinda, 2 Londolozi, 3 Ngala, came to ZAR 75,850 for two. The 20% deposit in March was more expensive than the balance I paid in July because of the more favorable exchange rate then.
We had limited time, and I thought it was worth it to spend that time at the camps. I don’t regret flying—it was great and so easy.
Leely: thanks—I’m a little disappointed in the Kodak gallery. The colors didn’t transfer well, but I’m happy you enjoyed the photos.
Pred: It seems that there is a trade-off between seeing lots of animals and a truly wilderness experience. I find though that the challenge and uncertainty of the wilderness is way more fun. Ngala, if you can ignore it’s eastern border with the Orpen gate, did seem more wild.
When Phill brought us to the airstrip on our last day, he said that tracks of two wild dogs had been seen near there in the past day or two. He had not yet seen them, but from what I read they did appear later. He said he thought that the number of wild dogs in Kruger was now estimated at about 75. Pretty hit or miss.
Bat: Yes—two nights at Londolozi were just fine.
Thanks,
CW
Yes the costs of transfers are ambiguous, and I’m embarrassed to admit they are ambiguous to me.
I booked through CCAfrica to stay at their camps, and never asked for a breakdown of costs. I was taking advantage of their multiple night discounts and hadn’t read enough on this board to know that I could and should do things differently. After all, it started as the trip of a lifetime. Ha, ha—little did I know it was just, I hope, the beginning.
I can tell you the whole trip, air transfers JNB-Phinda, Phinda-Londolozi, Londolozi-Ngala, Ngala-JNB, 4 nights Phinda, 2 Londolozi, 3 Ngala, came to ZAR 75,850 for two. The 20% deposit in March was more expensive than the balance I paid in July because of the more favorable exchange rate then.
We had limited time, and I thought it was worth it to spend that time at the camps. I don’t regret flying—it was great and so easy.
Leely: thanks—I’m a little disappointed in the Kodak gallery. The colors didn’t transfer well, but I’m happy you enjoyed the photos.
Pred: It seems that there is a trade-off between seeing lots of animals and a truly wilderness experience. I find though that the challenge and uncertainty of the wilderness is way more fun. Ngala, if you can ignore it’s eastern border with the Orpen gate, did seem more wild.
When Phill brought us to the airstrip on our last day, he said that tracks of two wild dogs had been seen near there in the past day or two. He had not yet seen them, but from what I read they did appear later. He said he thought that the number of wild dogs in Kruger was now estimated at about 75. Pretty hit or miss.
Bat: Yes—two nights at Londolozi were just fine.
Thanks,
CW
Nov 14th, 2006 | 05:14 PM
#26
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Hi cw,
I also booked a trip through CCA though I went to Botswana, Zimbabwe and then finished at Londolozi. In Dec 2005 I really did not enjoy my time at Londo at all, both room and viewing. This time I stayed 5 nights at each Founders #3 and Pioneer #6 and I had the vehicle to myself - obviously a huge difference in your gameviewing experience! After the horrible room we had at Bateleur, I really liked #3 and in fact preferred it to the suite at Pioneer, more spacious, though this trip was only me, while in December I had a niece, but she is tiny so she didn't take up much room. You found 2 nights enough, but I could easily have stayed another 10 nights this trip!
My gameviewing was far superior in July but I am really annoyed by all the rangers not saying the same facts to guests. For example, regarding the tail-less lioness, who I was told belongs to the Tsalala Pride. In Dec 2005 the tail was lost by a fight with hyena, then in July they said that was not true, it was from a lion, now a hyena? But when I saw her in January of this year, she looked OK given the wound was still fairly fresh, but her 4 cubs looked dreadful and I really gave them no chance of surviving, so I am really pleased that 2 have come through.
I am also wondering if you know the leopard looking for the lost cub was the Mxabene Female who had 2 cubs around 4.5 months old in July? That would be a shame if she has lost one now. I also wonder if the pride you saw at Singita was the Zimavenyane (not sure on that spelling) Pride, a group that was down to 1 lioness and 7 big cubs that were not doing well according to someone's else trip report a short while ago. That would be great if they have turned themselves around after losing 2 lionesses in such a short time.
A shame you didn't see hippo out, as in July when we headed back to breakfast, more often than not they would be out sunbathing like slugs, and there were a lot of small ones, well, small as far as hippos are concerned!
There is no doubt that the gameviewing in the Sabi Sands is fantastic, and while I am not heading back to Londo, I am returning back to my favourite place, MalaMala, in December 2006, and again in March and December 2007 and I cannot wait!
Kind regards,
Kaye
I also booked a trip through CCA though I went to Botswana, Zimbabwe and then finished at Londolozi. In Dec 2005 I really did not enjoy my time at Londo at all, both room and viewing. This time I stayed 5 nights at each Founders #3 and Pioneer #6 and I had the vehicle to myself - obviously a huge difference in your gameviewing experience! After the horrible room we had at Bateleur, I really liked #3 and in fact preferred it to the suite at Pioneer, more spacious, though this trip was only me, while in December I had a niece, but she is tiny so she didn't take up much room. You found 2 nights enough, but I could easily have stayed another 10 nights this trip!
My gameviewing was far superior in July but I am really annoyed by all the rangers not saying the same facts to guests. For example, regarding the tail-less lioness, who I was told belongs to the Tsalala Pride. In Dec 2005 the tail was lost by a fight with hyena, then in July they said that was not true, it was from a lion, now a hyena? But when I saw her in January of this year, she looked OK given the wound was still fairly fresh, but her 4 cubs looked dreadful and I really gave them no chance of surviving, so I am really pleased that 2 have come through.
I am also wondering if you know the leopard looking for the lost cub was the Mxabene Female who had 2 cubs around 4.5 months old in July? That would be a shame if she has lost one now. I also wonder if the pride you saw at Singita was the Zimavenyane (not sure on that spelling) Pride, a group that was down to 1 lioness and 7 big cubs that were not doing well according to someone's else trip report a short while ago. That would be great if they have turned themselves around after losing 2 lionesses in such a short time.
A shame you didn't see hippo out, as in July when we headed back to breakfast, more often than not they would be out sunbathing like slugs, and there were a lot of small ones, well, small as far as hippos are concerned!
There is no doubt that the gameviewing in the Sabi Sands is fantastic, and while I am not heading back to Londo, I am returning back to my favourite place, MalaMala, in December 2006, and again in March and December 2007 and I cannot wait!
Kind regards,
Kaye
Nov 14th, 2006 | 06:05 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
CW,
I enjoyed your Ngala portion of the report also. For my trip this past August....i wanted to go to ngala to try and have a peek at the dogs, but the CCA rep who helped me with my bookings was very professional in her attitude and got me the information that said, that the dogs hadnt been seen for many months. I ended up going to Exeter instead. However, one of these years i hope to give ngala a try....regardless of dogs or not...
If you like the Wilderness experience, i am sure Botswana will provide plenty of it for you...
Hari
I enjoyed your Ngala portion of the report also. For my trip this past August....i wanted to go to ngala to try and have a peek at the dogs, but the CCA rep who helped me with my bookings was very professional in her attitude and got me the information that said, that the dogs hadnt been seen for many months. I ended up going to Exeter instead. However, one of these years i hope to give ngala a try....regardless of dogs or not...
If you like the Wilderness experience, i am sure Botswana will provide plenty of it for you...
Hari
Nov 14th, 2006 | 07:21 PM
#28
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 0
Lynn and Kaye:
It's hard to put into words what was lacking at Londolozi. You are in a camp for such a limited time that it's not really fair to judge it, especially from my two nights. The change in camp managers while we were there may have had a lot to do with it.
I cannot fault the game viewing at all, and, after all, that's why we're there. I sensed that while our two vehicle companions and ourselves were serious about the animals, that the other people at the camp (all South Africans) were there for rest and relaxation for an extended weekend. Some didn't even go out on the drives.
I had some familiarity with the leopards and lion prides from Kaye's report this summer, but when I asked about them I didn't seem to get good information. I think if I stayed there 10 days, I'd would have been taken more seriously and learned more.
It's all a matter of good timing--your guide, fellow travelers, and the management. We definitely had a good guide and tracker but the management was in transition and I'm sure our two nights was not long enough to form a good opinion.
One other thing about the physical set-up of Londolozi. Because all of the camps are all within walking distance of one another along the Sand River, the staff village is right across the street, and maintenance buildings nearby, to me it seemed more populated than, for instance, Phinda. Phinda has more people, some larger camps, and the ranger training school, but you don't necessarily see them, so you have more of a sense of being removed.
Bear in mind, it was my first trip and I have only experienced these three camps.
There are so many choices in the Sabi Sands, that I would probably try Mala Mala if we were to go there again.
Lynn: what time of next year will you be in SA?
Hari: I think I would love Botswana. I'm already planning/thinking about where to go next. Another place that sounds interesting is Pafuri in Northern Krueger. Way too many wonderful places to choose from.
CW
It's hard to put into words what was lacking at Londolozi. You are in a camp for such a limited time that it's not really fair to judge it, especially from my two nights. The change in camp managers while we were there may have had a lot to do with it.
I cannot fault the game viewing at all, and, after all, that's why we're there. I sensed that while our two vehicle companions and ourselves were serious about the animals, that the other people at the camp (all South Africans) were there for rest and relaxation for an extended weekend. Some didn't even go out on the drives.
I had some familiarity with the leopards and lion prides from Kaye's report this summer, but when I asked about them I didn't seem to get good information. I think if I stayed there 10 days, I'd would have been taken more seriously and learned more.
It's all a matter of good timing--your guide, fellow travelers, and the management. We definitely had a good guide and tracker but the management was in transition and I'm sure our two nights was not long enough to form a good opinion.
One other thing about the physical set-up of Londolozi. Because all of the camps are all within walking distance of one another along the Sand River, the staff village is right across the street, and maintenance buildings nearby, to me it seemed more populated than, for instance, Phinda. Phinda has more people, some larger camps, and the ranger training school, but you don't necessarily see them, so you have more of a sense of being removed.
Bear in mind, it was my first trip and I have only experienced these three camps.
There are so many choices in the Sabi Sands, that I would probably try Mala Mala if we were to go there again.
Lynn: what time of next year will you be in SA?
Hari: I think I would love Botswana. I'm already planning/thinking about where to go next. Another place that sounds interesting is Pafuri in Northern Krueger. Way too many wonderful places to choose from.
CW
Nov 15th, 2006 | 01:40 AM
#30
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
CW,
What dates were you at Londolozi? I was there from 27th Sept to 2nd October.
I saw the Mxabene Female who her 2 cubs (around 6-7 months old) on 2nd October so if it was her you saw she'd been reunited. The Vomba female was believed to have lost a cub (hadn't been seen for a few weeks) but we also saw her with both.
The lion pride I saw was the same as the one in your pictures...however they were in rougher shape when I saw them and this was on 1st October.
Cheers,
Gary.
What dates were you at Londolozi? I was there from 27th Sept to 2nd October.
I saw the Mxabene Female who her 2 cubs (around 6-7 months old) on 2nd October so if it was her you saw she'd been reunited. The Vomba female was believed to have lost a cub (hadn't been seen for a few weeks) but we also saw her with both.
The lion pride I saw was the same as the one in your pictures...however they were in rougher shape when I saw them and this was on 1st October.
Cheers,
Gary.
Nov 15th, 2006 | 02:42 AM
#31
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
I was at Londo's Bateleur in August. The staff were wonderful as was our ranger and tracker ( Renias and Freddy Mhlongo). Freddy was tickled that we had seen all the old Varty movies starring his father and brother. Renias's network was extremely good so we got to sightings before most of the others. Doc Watson the owner of a neighbouring property also called him with some special sightings. I dont know how true this is but Londo management told us that he is considered to be on track for 'Master Tracker'. All in all we had an amazing experience with great sightings and great staff.
Miriam
Miriam
Nov 15th, 2006 | 04:02 AM
#32
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 0
Hari:
I found that Phinda became more crowded on the weekend. I think people use it as a long weekend getaway from Durban (we met two couples who did that). Our guide seemed to work around the crowds. He would say everyone is at such and such a sighting but we're going somewhere else and we'll go to that area when they have left.
Tanky
We were there the second week in September so evidently the cub was found. I'm happy to know that. Thanks for mentioning it. I wish we had seen them. Our last day Shandros told us that someone had seen tracks from what they thought was the second cub but no one had been able to verify the sighting.
Miriam,
As you did, we had good staff experiences and guiding at Londolozi. I liked that our guide had worked there 17 years and knew the reserve inside out.
I think the next year will bring changes there and It will be interesting to see the outcome.
CW
I found that Phinda became more crowded on the weekend. I think people use it as a long weekend getaway from Durban (we met two couples who did that). Our guide seemed to work around the crowds. He would say everyone is at such and such a sighting but we're going somewhere else and we'll go to that area when they have left.
Tanky
We were there the second week in September so evidently the cub was found. I'm happy to know that. Thanks for mentioning it. I wish we had seen them. Our last day Shandros told us that someone had seen tracks from what they thought was the second cub but no one had been able to verify the sighting.
Miriam,
As you did, we had good staff experiences and guiding at Londolozi. I liked that our guide had worked there 17 years and knew the reserve inside out.
I think the next year will bring changes there and It will be interesting to see the outcome.
CW
Nov 15th, 2006 | 07:28 AM
#34
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
SA is late June to early July, 2007. 4 nights Mala Mala, followed by a week in Phinda with 3 rhino tracking walks. Maybe I'll add something else in Phinda once I get there. Any insight or comments on those two places is welcome. First time to SA. I have requested Thulani. Thanks!
Nov 15th, 2006 | 09:31 AM
#36
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 0
Lynn,
That sounds like a good trip. I think both camps will complement one another nicely.
I hope you like Thulani. (BTW, the "h" in his name is silent, just like in Phinda.)
It was watching him that I realized just how many components go into making a good ranger. They not only have to be knowledgeable about the wildlife, birds, and night skys, but they also are your hosts--making sure everything is right in the vehicle for your arrival, remembering what you like to drink when you stop for a break, and being sensitive enough to make everyone happy.
I think the rhino tracking sounds fascinating. Phinda has a lot of rhino. We took walks at each camp and the walking experience is completely different from riding in the vehicle.
Michael: I'm glad you liked the photos. Thanks.
That sounds like a good trip. I think both camps will complement one another nicely.
I hope you like Thulani. (BTW, the "h" in his name is silent, just like in Phinda.)
It was watching him that I realized just how many components go into making a good ranger. They not only have to be knowledgeable about the wildlife, birds, and night skys, but they also are your hosts--making sure everything is right in the vehicle for your arrival, remembering what you like to drink when you stop for a break, and being sensitive enough to make everyone happy.
I think the rhino tracking sounds fascinating. Phinda has a lot of rhino. We took walks at each camp and the walking experience is completely different from riding in the vehicle.
Michael: I'm glad you liked the photos. Thanks.
Nov 16th, 2006 | 02:05 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Dont mean to hijack CW's trip report, but, CCA are running a special currently for Ngala tented camp for those with immediate travel plans....
www.safariasap.com
Anyone, travelling to SA in the immediate future may want to take advantage of this offer...
Hari
p.s: I'm not a travel agent.....just want to point out the relevant info....
www.safariasap.com
Anyone, travelling to SA in the immediate future may want to take advantage of this offer...
Hari
p.s: I'm not a travel agent.....just want to point out the relevant info....
Aug 5th, 2007 | 04:03 PM
#40
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 0
Apologies for pulling up an old post. I just wanted to redirect my question to CW off of Atravelynn's trip report.
CW, you mentioned you would have been happy with two camps, which two would you choose out of the 3 you visited?
I am deciding between all Mala Mala or MM and one other camp. I would like to try the tented camp experience but don't want to sacrifice great game viewing for it.
Your input is appreciated.
CW, you mentioned you would have been happy with two camps, which two would you choose out of the 3 you visited?
I am deciding between all Mala Mala or MM and one other camp. I would like to try the tented camp experience but don't want to sacrifice great game viewing for it.
Your input is appreciated.
