Morocco, A Visual Journey
Jun 17th, 2018, 05:35 AM
#102
Original Poster
tripplanner, I'm glad to hear that your interest has been rekindled! I don't want to dissuade you from a visit to a fascinating place. As you'll see, the trip changes dramatically as we go from Fes toward the desert.
We left Fes and our stunning home for 3 nights and had a long day's driving till we ended in Merzouga, our base at the foot of the Sahara, before we traveled into the desert. We stopped first in Ifrane, known as the "Switzerland of Morocco". It's a shocking change after the medina in Fes - this is a startling pristine town built in the 20s by the French administration as a getaway place for the wealthy. It's perfect as a short toilet stop on your journey, but otherwise pretty dull, an upscale mall. And the ATM didn't even work right away!
Next stop, the cedar forest in Azrou, where the Barbary apes (macaques) live. We stopped our car along the road where several other cars had parked, and within seconds, we "met" the macaques! Let's just say that they are far too habituated to humans!
Aren't we looking a bit too innocent now?
and another...
This was a quick stop only, and not one I'd spend much time on unless you're looking to spend some time hiking in the region.
We left Fes and our stunning home for 3 nights and had a long day's driving till we ended in Merzouga, our base at the foot of the Sahara, before we traveled into the desert. We stopped first in Ifrane, known as the "Switzerland of Morocco". It's a shocking change after the medina in Fes - this is a startling pristine town built in the 20s by the French administration as a getaway place for the wealthy. It's perfect as a short toilet stop on your journey, but otherwise pretty dull, an upscale mall. And the ATM didn't even work right away!
Next stop, the cedar forest in Azrou, where the Barbary apes (macaques) live. We stopped our car along the road where several other cars had parked, and within seconds, we "met" the macaques! Let's just say that they are far too habituated to humans!
Aren't we looking a bit too innocent now?
and another...
This was a quick stop only, and not one I'd spend much time on unless you're looking to spend some time hiking in the region.
Jun 17th, 2018, 06:51 AM
#103
Original Poster
After leaving Azrou, the terrain began to change once again. We made a quick roadside stop where Salem bought a large bag of oranges.
We had lunch in Zaida, the BBQ or "Meat town", that is not far from Midelt. Every place sells BBQ and you can smell it in the air! The food is good, the place is local - what more do we need? Vegetarians, be forewarned: this town is not for you!
On the road again
We stopped at an overlook, where we viewed the Ziz River, a waterway which feeds the towns in the Ziz Valley. It may look dry and dusty on first glance, but there are towns here that have grown up within the lush groves in the valley.
This is only one of many that we saw along our drive through the region.
We had lunch in Zaida, the BBQ or "Meat town", that is not far from Midelt. Every place sells BBQ and you can smell it in the air! The food is good, the place is local - what more do we need? Vegetarians, be forewarned: this town is not for you!
On the road again
We stopped at an overlook, where we viewed the Ziz River, a waterway which feeds the towns in the Ziz Valley. It may look dry and dusty on first glance, but there are towns here that have grown up within the lush groves in the valley.
This is only one of many that we saw along our drive through the region.
Last edited by progol; Jun 17th, 2018 at 06:59 AM.
Jun 17th, 2018, 07:11 AM
#104
Original Poster
We had one more stop before we arrived in Merzouga, where we slept the night before traveling into the desert. This stop was very special -- Salem took us to his sister's home where we had tea and cake with his sister, her husband and their son. Salem is a Berber, and his family were nomadic, but after his older brother and sister were born, his parents settled in Rissani. We were all a little shy with one another, but we were still made to feel very welcome into their home. These are the moments that stay with us. Thanks to Michael, who took the best shot of all of us and made us all smile! And thanks to Salem for bringing us here!
Last edited by progol; Jun 17th, 2018 at 07:20 AM.
Jun 17th, 2018, 07:50 AM
#105
progol - the "encounter" with the carpet salesman was not the only memorable part of our trip to Tunisia. We had a wonderful time on the island of Djerba and a lovely evening and night in an oasis though unfortunately something we ate or drank had a somewhat profound effect on us both so our train ride back to Tunis the next day was "interesting" to say the least. Thank goodness we were travelling in "tout confort" with decent toilets, not in the back with the goats. We also stayed in gorgeous Sidi Bu Said and saw Carthage which was lovely. Great memories but I never wanted to go back.
You have done a wonderful job in taking us to Morocco with you and I'm not surprised that you have awoken or rekindled interest in others. Having such terrific guide must also have helped of course. Thank you again for sharing it all with us.
You have done a wonderful job in taking us to Morocco with you and I'm not surprised that you have awoken or rekindled interest in others. Having such terrific guide must also have helped of course. Thank you again for sharing it all with us.
Jun 17th, 2018, 12:11 PM
#107
Original Poster
Many thanks again, annhig and tripplanner, for such kind words.
tripplanner, more amazing architecture and design later....for now, we enter a different world!
annhig, Tunisia must’ve been remarkable, though I appreciate the reasons why once was enough!
tripplanner, more amazing architecture and design later....for now, we enter a different world!
annhig, Tunisia must’ve been remarkable, though I appreciate the reasons why once was enough!
Jun 18th, 2018, 02:31 AM
#108
Original Poster
Finally, after a very long day of driving after leaving Fes, we arrived in our hotel for the night, Auberge du Sud, at the edge of the Erg Chebbi Sand dunes. At last, we've arrived at the desert! And the hotel is like a fantasy resort, a huge fortress with a swimming pool overlooking the dunes. Buffet dinner and breakfast with lots of choices. The room was a bit dark and small, but it was fine for one night.
Auberge du Sud
Our home for one night!
The wind was blowing strong as we arrived!
A very indulgent way to spend some time
Poolside
At the foot of the dunes, just beyond our hotel!
Auberge du Sud
Our home for one night!
The wind was blowing strong as we arrived!
A very indulgent way to spend some time
Poolside
At the foot of the dunes, just beyond our hotel!
Jun 18th, 2018, 04:01 AM
#109
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I just found your report, progol, and am thoroughly enjoying it! Im so glad we can post photos here, as yours are stunningly beautiful. When you say you had negative reactions to photography, did they occur when you were in "open" places, like squares or alleyways or when you took pictures of specific things?
The photos of the Barbary apes made me laugh - we had some encounters with them in Gibraltar!
I've been wanting to visit Morocco for some time and your experiences have changed the way I think we will do this. I'm putting Salem's website in my notes, and will contact his company when time comes. Did you have your city guides arranged in advance by your company?
Thanks for taking the time to write this wonderful report - looking forward to the next installment!
The photos of the Barbary apes made me laugh - we had some encounters with them in Gibraltar!
I've been wanting to visit Morocco for some time and your experiences have changed the way I think we will do this. I'm putting Salem's website in my notes, and will contact his company when time comes. Did you have your city guides arranged in advance by your company?
Thanks for taking the time to write this wonderful report - looking forward to the next installment!
Jun 19th, 2018, 02:23 AM
#111
Original Poster
Thanks so much, Florida1 and Live2Travel!
Florida, I'm happy that you're keeping Salem's name in your notes -- he is special. As far as the guides go, as I understand it, there is a roster of guides and one gets assigned depending upon availability. So it was arranged by the agent, but no one was reserved specifically for us. Of course, some of the agents may have preferred guides, but there wasn't a guarantee for us. I would do more research into this and ask for someone who may've gotten good reviews. You may not recall, but I didn't work with Salem to put my trip together, but another agent; he, in turn, hired Salem as our driver. And it was the driver's job to arrange on-the-go for all of our activities, although the agent I worked with directly took care of the hotels. And hired Salem as our driver!
Live2Travel, yes we spent 2 very full days in Fes! The first day was with the agent until mid-afternoon; the next day, we wandered the medina on our own. It's HUGE!!
More to come shortly....
Florida, I'm happy that you're keeping Salem's name in your notes -- he is special. As far as the guides go, as I understand it, there is a roster of guides and one gets assigned depending upon availability. So it was arranged by the agent, but no one was reserved specifically for us. Of course, some of the agents may have preferred guides, but there wasn't a guarantee for us. I would do more research into this and ask for someone who may've gotten good reviews. You may not recall, but I didn't work with Salem to put my trip together, but another agent; he, in turn, hired Salem as our driver. And it was the driver's job to arrange on-the-go for all of our activities, although the agent I worked with directly took care of the hotels. And hired Salem as our driver!
Live2Travel, yes we spent 2 very full days in Fes! The first day was with the agent until mid-afternoon; the next day, we wandered the medina on our own. It's HUGE!!
More to come shortly....
Jun 19th, 2018, 04:56 AM
#113
Original Poster
<<Live2Travel, yes we spent 2 very full days in Fes! The first day was with the agent until mid-afternoon; the next day, we wandered the medina on our own. It's HUGE!! >>
Oops, not with the agent - with the guide until mid-afternoon! Sorry about that!
Florida, you're very welcome! If you do contact Salem prior to your trip, you might ask him who others have recommended in addition to finding names on the internet.
Oops, not with the agent - with the guide until mid-afternoon! Sorry about that!
Florida, you're very welcome! If you do contact Salem prior to your trip, you might ask him who others have recommended in addition to finding names on the internet.
Jun 20th, 2018, 02:19 AM
#116
Original Poster
The Edge of the Desert
After a large buffet breakfast, Salem picked us up for our day to explore towns and other spots along the desert edge. We spent a full day in these activities; who knew there was really so much to see?
For many people who visit a desert camp, the experience starts with a camel ride from their hotel in Merzouga. And the luxury camp business is definitely growing! Here, we stopped to see a herd of camels getting fed (probably in between their tourist treks) before being led away.
Taking a break
Back to work
On the way
Different forms of transportation
The Oasis
We entered the Merzouga oasis and walked along the extensive irrigation system which supplies water to the local farmers plots.
Salem along the irrigation system
A palm forest
Life in the desert!
After a large buffet breakfast, Salem picked us up for our day to explore towns and other spots along the desert edge. We spent a full day in these activities; who knew there was really so much to see?
For many people who visit a desert camp, the experience starts with a camel ride from their hotel in Merzouga. And the luxury camp business is definitely growing! Here, we stopped to see a herd of camels getting fed (probably in between their tourist treks) before being led away.
Taking a break
Back to work
On the way
Different forms of transportation
The Oasis
We entered the Merzouga oasis and walked along the extensive irrigation system which supplies water to the local farmers plots.
Salem along the irrigation system
A palm forest
Life in the desert!
Last edited by progol; Jun 20th, 2018 at 02:37 AM.
Jun 20th, 2018, 02:07 PM
#120
I have heard that the men who work in the tanneries don't live much into their 30s due to the toxicity of the chemicals that they are constantly immersed in and breathing.
