Wandering the back streets of Essaouira










Music, music everywhere!
Continuing the theme we started in earlier posts:

A view from the Ramparts
People go to watch the sunset from the ramparts, and the sunset was hidden behind the clouds, but we weren't disappointed by the view:

<< And when I opened it, the sales woman was there, ready to drag me back to the shop, after telling me that I could have a reduction in price! That's the first time anyone chased me to the toilet to get me to buy. >>

lol, progol - I think that would be guaranteed to put me off! [buying and my bodily functions!]

as ever your photos as enchanting, whether of people, places or indeed animals in trees.

did you stay in Essaouira?

Thanks so much, annhig! Yes, I thought the sales woman took her sales pitch to a new level! And I definitely did not purchase anything after that!

And yes, we stayed one night in a small hotel in Essaouira - comfortable, pleasant, but not memorable. We were really glad to have the night, and though we enjoyed wandering a good part of the town during the time we were there, we could've easily spent another night because it was so much more relaxing than anywhere else.

Sounds like the right place to wind down your trip. Was the hustling there similar to the big cities?

<<Sounds like the right place to wind down your trip. Was the hustling there similar to the big cities?>>

I could've spent another day easily. The hustling is definitely not as aggressive and I did do a bit of shopping and found it not too bad. Prices were probably higher than I should've spent but I got a few nice leather bags for family members that seem to be decent, if not top quality.

As always fabulous pictures! So enjoying reliving our trip through yours. Only in Morroco would you be chased in a bathroom. They don't give up, gotta give them credit. We spent 3 nights in Essaouira and loved it. Definitely laid back and less hustling in general. Plus the presence of music everywhere was so nice. We enjoyed the music walking around, sitting in cafes and in the restaurants we ate in. I did buy some Argan oils further south and even in Marrakech and still, love it. I got my purported camel leather flats there and wish I had bought more. They were a good price based on what I saw in Marrakech.

Hi, yestravel! I’m so pleased you’re enjoying the chance to relive your trip! It’s funny how the chance to go through our photos and see the trip all over again has made me appreciate it all the more. Of course, the memory of being followed to the toilet is definitely a classic! Michael is happy with his leather (camel?) slippers. There were so many pretty ones and I would’ve loved a pair but can’t wear flats.

LOL, I can visualize the scene, a Moroccan lady banging on the toilet door....it would've killed all desire (both for the bathroom and buying anything). And talking about bathrooms, were they Western, or hole in the ground?

Speaking for my experience, only had Western toilets on our month long trip.

Yes, xyz, if I even considered buying something at the Argan oil factory, I definitely lost all interest after the sales woman followed me to the toilet! Seriously, there is a limit!

And most of the toilets were, as yestravel said, western style, although I do recall at least one squat toilet in a very local place in a small town where we had lunch. But most are western style.

Good to know. Squatting is not a problem, getting back up....hmm, that's a different story

just started reading this wonderful trip report and your photos are so evocative! I noticed his headscarf and the tile colors immediately!

xyz,
<<Good to know. Squatting is not a problem, getting back up....hmm, that's a different story >>
Oh, can I relate!

plambers, thanks so much for your sweet words! Morocco is certainly one of the most strikingly visual places we've visited! Glad you're enjoying the TR!

Thank you so much for your report. Such a lot of work, but invaluable to helping me plan my trip for November. I just contacted Salem and hoping to book with his company.

Thanks again,
Lisa

Lisa, I'm thrilled that you are enjoying the TR and that it's helping you plan your own trip. I hope it works out for you with Salem - he is a gem!
Paule

the pictures are amazing!

Thanks,so much, speediah!

Gradually, we are coming to the end of the trip! Here are a just a few more from the medina in Essaouira.




I love those olives!

As always, Salem met us early at our hotel. He told us he had a surprise for us - after visiting the many (wonderful!) popular tourist destinations, we were going to see the "real Morocco!" After 2 weeks, he got to know us pretty well and saw that we really love very local experiences. And today, we were going to experience one! We stopped in Tafetachte, a town somewhere between Essaouira and Marrakech, where preparations for a Fantasia were taking place and a huge market was held. This is not a typical tourist destination, and, at least during the day, we were the only foreigners there.

A Fantasia (this is not Walt Disney!), also known as moussim in Moroccan, is a ceremonial event and tradition celebrating a wartime cavalry charge, with horseriders synchronizing their horses and firing rifles in unison. We did not see the actual event, but we did see the grounds and some of the men who were starting to practice. We wandered through the very extensive market, purchasing meat which was then grilled for us, and we sat in a large tent, amongst families and friends doing the same thing. It was as "real" an experience as we could expect, and we loved that Salem thought we'd enjoy it.

The fantasia: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fantasia_(performance)
https://relay.nationalgeographic.com...rian-tradition

Tafetachte
Arriving in the town. The street was filled with vendors






Walking through the very extensive grounds where the market was held

Buying chicken


Grilling


The tent where we ate our meal; there were groups of friends and families. Someone walked around serving tea


The 3 of us sharing a meal


Marketplace




Men beginning to practice for the fantasia.


The grounds where the event will be held later on that evening.