Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Africa & the Middle East
Reload this Page >

Lovely Little Kwara and lots lots more......... Botswana March 2009

Search

Lovely Little Kwara and lots lots more......... Botswana March 2009

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 2nd, 2009, 11:34 PM
  #21  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Did a drive out to Kgama Kgama pan too from Nxai. I didn't get the impression that too many people head there - I don't particularly recommend it and any animals out there are really skittish and run away. We saw zebras, Gemsbok and things. All in all, Nxai is a good change of pace camp and a place you need to visit.

Tau Pan camp - obviously, very close to the Tau Pan itself. The pan is stunning and has resident herds of Gemsbok, Springbok, some giraffe, wildebeest. They are all very relaxed and is a great location to just hang out....

The CKGR is all about the magic of the Kalahari, the great open spaces, the landscapes, the changing terrain, the Gemsbok herds, the Springboks, the ground squirrels, the pale chanting goshawks, the Kori bustards, the ostritches, the secretary birds......... Although the great predators are all present and ofcourse, game viewing is all luck of the draw - this wouldn't be the emphasis of a CKGR visit. I did see cheetah in Passarge valley (stunning and beautiful) and 3 young sub-adult Lions in Deception valley. Although not close to the road. Strict no-off road rules and adhered to by the Kwando guides. Resident guides are Hector who was out on leave (Lebala fame), Alberto (BB's brother) and Bilipe (spelling?). Great trackers too in Scooper and KG and Name.

This camp is also about long drives to get to other areas like Passarge, Deception Valley, the stunning Sunday Pan etc etc., In brief a stunning park, very beautiful, very picturesque and gives you an appreciation of the great outdoors (especially when I come from the second most populated country in the world).

I'm certainly not an expert on these areas, so will try my best to try and answer questions, if any.
HariS is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 02:02 AM
  #22  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hari, wow, I'm speechless about your sightings! Great to have your report on the camp and staff too, of course.
Kavey is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 04:24 AM
  #23  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am surprised to hear that Hector´s a guide at Tau Pan. I know he´s originally from the "dry" botswanan area. As we asked him about him going to Tau or Nxai he refused and said he would like to stay in the "wet" (Lebala).
How about merkats @ Nxai or Tau?
Great sightings @ Kwara. Hari, I´m jealous.
Thomas
Tomsfries is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 05:50 AM
  #24  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Hari,

Thanks so much for the post. I really enjoyed the report especially the wild dogs. What was your itinerary for the safari? I looked for it and could not find the post. Thanks

cj
KIBOKO is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 05:56 AM
  #25  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, Kavey.

Thomas - I hear that he loves the challenge and apparently, the first of the Kwando guides to spot a leopard at Tau. We drove by the famous Hector tree a few times on the way to San Pan. Meerkats, I didn't be lucky enough......


Red Hartebeasts another new species for me.

What I did see were Bat Eared foxes and Caracal -
HariS is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 05:57 AM
  #26  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, CJ - just those 3 camps. Little Kwara, Nxai and Tau Pan.
HariS is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 08:22 AM
  #27  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Caracal is not too bad
Tomsfries is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 03:06 PM
  #28  
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hari

Great report, another fantastic trip for you. The light dogs are interesting, from our photos we've noticed a pattern that the dogs we see at MM are much lighter than those we've seen in Botswana.

Matt
napamatt_2 is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 03:09 PM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You've been wanting to see a caracal!
atravelynn is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 06:28 PM
  #30  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, Napamatt. I heard from some people who were at Little Vumbura, that there's a possibility that they've seen the light color dogs there too.....

Lynn - True. Perhaps, one day I'll get a decent Caracal pic.
HariS is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 08:53 PM
  #31  
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great information Hari, Tau Pan sounds amazing.

I keep hearing about Deception Valley, and the more I hear the more I think I should like to go there.
twaffle is offline  
Old Apr 3rd, 2009, 09:02 PM
  #32  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, Twaffle. My favourite though, is Passarge valley. Stunning! It's a narrow valley and you can see clearly and really is very very beautiful - flat grasses with some short Acacia islands in between.
HariS is offline  
Old Apr 4th, 2009, 02:02 PM
  #33  
cw
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hari,

What an amazing trip you had. I'm going to reread your report. It's almost too much to visualize at once. Looking forward to seeing pictures.

CW
cw is offline  
Old Apr 4th, 2009, 03:31 PM
  #34  
aby
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Harry - about the dogs: it's like winning the lottery
aby
aby is offline  
Old Apr 4th, 2009, 04:36 PM
  #35  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great Report, Hari. Places I'd like to go.

What is CKGR?

Thanks.
Samcat
samcat is offline  
Old Apr 4th, 2009, 07:50 PM
  #36  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
CKGR = Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana
rickmck is offline  
Old Apr 4th, 2009, 08:24 PM
  #37  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, all........
HariS is offline  
Old Apr 5th, 2009, 08:00 AM
  #38  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hari - am loving reading this. Just got a last minute opportunity to go to Africa in May. I am going to Singita then to Botswana to Kwara and Tau Pan. Will be my first trip to the delta and CKGR. Also to any Kwando camps. Thanks to your report I have a good idea of what to expect. I am getting excited. Thanks for all the great info!!! Ann
aowens is offline  
Old Apr 7th, 2009, 01:15 AM
  #39  
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hello Hari,

What an exciting experience, you lived again on the Kwando concessions. I'm glad you emphasize Nxaï Pan and CKGR, which are not as spectacular as other places in Botswana, wildlife speaking, but are like you say "all about the magic of the Kalahari" and are, especially CKGR, still unspoiled or perhaps should I say not YET damaged.
A pity, you did not see the meerkats, a good reason to go back.
Concerning the lions picking springbocks at Nxaï Pan, it's a reality. In the dry season when the level of the water is below the edge of the water hole, the springbocks have to go down in the water to drink which is putting them in a uncomfortable position in that they are loosing the few seconds they need to escape, because they have to come out of the water and climb on the edge of the hole. The lions are getting them in the water or when they are just beginning their run on the ground.
Once again a great safari

Mike
walrus is offline  
Old Apr 7th, 2009, 02:03 AM
  #40  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ann - Enjoy! Your safari.

Hi Mike,

Thanks. Yes, the Kwando concessions have always delivered something or the other, as you'll know. That's why I have to keep going back. Thanks for the info on Nxai in the dry season. Appreciate the info.

Regards,
Hari
HariS is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -