Kasbahs, camels, and couscous - 12 days in Morocco
Jun 24th, 2010, 10:34 AM
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Wrapping it up –
Day eleven: We were picked up by a different driver and set out for the mountains for a day of light trekking plus visiting the Tin Mal Mosque. Along the way we stopped in Asni to pick up our Berber guide, Omar. An hour further through beautiful countryside and we arrived at the mosque. It’s very pretty with light pink brickwork – built in the 1100s – deserted now – partially restored but without a roof. We found a family of owls nesting in the rafters.
From there we drove to a very small Berber village to a home where we were to have lunch. We met the family and were made comfortable on their back terrace on rugs & served mint tea. The lunch was wonderful : warm from the oven flatbread, salad of chopped tomatoes, peppers, and onions, a chicken & veggie tagine, and then another meat course. It tasted like pork but haha – definitely would not be pork – I guess lamb? We were encouraged to eat more, more, more. This was no time to be lady-like. Not eating what is served would be unforgivably rude I’m sure so I kept eating. For dessert we moved inside to a sitting room and they surprised me with a birthday cake. It was a very sweet moment – and a delicious cake (more my idea of dessert than the fruit we’ve mostly had!). I was touched so much by that gesture and it was a very special way to spend my birthday.
After eating we hung out with the mother & daughter while Omar went to pray. The language barrier was no problem once we took out our cameras & showed them some of the pictures of Marrakesh we’d taken and the desert. The daughter, Zahra , didn’t mind having her picture taken but mom ran out of the room in a hurry.
We ended the visit to the village with a hike through a dry riverbed. Went through fields of crops, olive orchards, saw grazing animals, a huge white mule, children playing soccer. It was a really nice afternoon.
Back in Marrakesh later we relaxed at the riad and then had a wonderful dinner ending with yet another chocolate birthday cake that my husband had asked them to surprise me with. Two cakes in one day is my idea of a perfect birthday.
Day twelve: we were picked up after lunch to head to Rabat to catch our flight home (early the next morning). It was a 3 hour drive on a fast but boring highway. In Rabat we were staying at the Kalaa again. This time even with the driver asking the locals in the medina where it was we got hopelessly lost and wandered around dragging our suitcases (plus the heavy pottery we’d been hauling all over the country since Fez). Finally found the riad & enjoyed a relaxing evening (funny that you feel the need to relax after sitting in a car for the better part of the day – so tiring!) and a good dinner at the riad. They only took cash and we were out of dirham so we were depressed to not have a final Casablanca beer to toast our last night in Morocco (the dinner bill itself was paid by JBT but not drinks) – but since we had to be up & out by 5 maybe that was a good thing.
We were escorted out of the medina in the pitch black the next morning. If an employee of the riad had not led us we’d probably still be going in circles in that medina today! We were driven to the airport a short distance away and had 2 hours to wait in line before we could check in for our flight. Even though the airport in Rabat is very small we were glad to be there early – the lines moved super slowly.
Two flights later and we were home & facing the dreaded unpacking. Almost worse than packing. How funny: when we opened the package our rug had been sewn into 2 weeks earlier – the overpowering smell of wet dog (camel?) came wafting out & we were scared that we’d made a bit of a mistake. It aired out in a day and is fine now.
Morocco was everything I’d dreamt and more. We truly loved our visit. When writing this trip report I found myself censoring or cleaning it up a bit. Some of the details of the trip that were most interesting to me I kept to myself for fear of sounding patronizing or critical of a place I loved.
A few posts back I did talk about the women washing clothes in creeks and hanging the laundry out to dry and I think that’s an example of sounding condescending or like I’m some anthropologist shocked by the strange customs of some isolated tribe. Not so – I know that women still hand wash clothes in much of the world and it was primarily done that way at home not so many years ago.
We travel the world to experience diverse places and cultures and to feel the differences (as much as possible in a generally short, insulated visit) more so than the similarities. How boring it would be to find the same customs and ways of life everywhere! But there is the danger of coming across as a clueless, condescending American – so some of the most meaningful memories will stay in my head. I hope I’ve portrayed Moroccans with the respect they deserve. It is a beautiful country with lovely, welcoming people.
Day eleven: We were picked up by a different driver and set out for the mountains for a day of light trekking plus visiting the Tin Mal Mosque. Along the way we stopped in Asni to pick up our Berber guide, Omar. An hour further through beautiful countryside and we arrived at the mosque. It’s very pretty with light pink brickwork – built in the 1100s – deserted now – partially restored but without a roof. We found a family of owls nesting in the rafters.
From there we drove to a very small Berber village to a home where we were to have lunch. We met the family and were made comfortable on their back terrace on rugs & served mint tea. The lunch was wonderful : warm from the oven flatbread, salad of chopped tomatoes, peppers, and onions, a chicken & veggie tagine, and then another meat course. It tasted like pork but haha – definitely would not be pork – I guess lamb? We were encouraged to eat more, more, more. This was no time to be lady-like. Not eating what is served would be unforgivably rude I’m sure so I kept eating. For dessert we moved inside to a sitting room and they surprised me with a birthday cake. It was a very sweet moment – and a delicious cake (more my idea of dessert than the fruit we’ve mostly had!). I was touched so much by that gesture and it was a very special way to spend my birthday.
After eating we hung out with the mother & daughter while Omar went to pray. The language barrier was no problem once we took out our cameras & showed them some of the pictures of Marrakesh we’d taken and the desert. The daughter, Zahra , didn’t mind having her picture taken but mom ran out of the room in a hurry.
We ended the visit to the village with a hike through a dry riverbed. Went through fields of crops, olive orchards, saw grazing animals, a huge white mule, children playing soccer. It was a really nice afternoon.
Back in Marrakesh later we relaxed at the riad and then had a wonderful dinner ending with yet another chocolate birthday cake that my husband had asked them to surprise me with. Two cakes in one day is my idea of a perfect birthday.
Day twelve: we were picked up after lunch to head to Rabat to catch our flight home (early the next morning). It was a 3 hour drive on a fast but boring highway. In Rabat we were staying at the Kalaa again. This time even with the driver asking the locals in the medina where it was we got hopelessly lost and wandered around dragging our suitcases (plus the heavy pottery we’d been hauling all over the country since Fez). Finally found the riad & enjoyed a relaxing evening (funny that you feel the need to relax after sitting in a car for the better part of the day – so tiring!) and a good dinner at the riad. They only took cash and we were out of dirham so we were depressed to not have a final Casablanca beer to toast our last night in Morocco (the dinner bill itself was paid by JBT but not drinks) – but since we had to be up & out by 5 maybe that was a good thing.
We were escorted out of the medina in the pitch black the next morning. If an employee of the riad had not led us we’d probably still be going in circles in that medina today! We were driven to the airport a short distance away and had 2 hours to wait in line before we could check in for our flight. Even though the airport in Rabat is very small we were glad to be there early – the lines moved super slowly.
Two flights later and we were home & facing the dreaded unpacking. Almost worse than packing. How funny: when we opened the package our rug had been sewn into 2 weeks earlier – the overpowering smell of wet dog (camel?) came wafting out & we were scared that we’d made a bit of a mistake. It aired out in a day and is fine now.
Morocco was everything I’d dreamt and more. We truly loved our visit. When writing this trip report I found myself censoring or cleaning it up a bit. Some of the details of the trip that were most interesting to me I kept to myself for fear of sounding patronizing or critical of a place I loved.
A few posts back I did talk about the women washing clothes in creeks and hanging the laundry out to dry and I think that’s an example of sounding condescending or like I’m some anthropologist shocked by the strange customs of some isolated tribe. Not so – I know that women still hand wash clothes in much of the world and it was primarily done that way at home not so many years ago.
We travel the world to experience diverse places and cultures and to feel the differences (as much as possible in a generally short, insulated visit) more so than the similarities. How boring it would be to find the same customs and ways of life everywhere! But there is the danger of coming across as a clueless, condescending American – so some of the most meaningful memories will stay in my head. I hope I’ve portrayed Moroccans with the respect they deserve. It is a beautiful country with lovely, welcoming people.
Jun 24th, 2010, 08:32 PM
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Hello Leslie:
Have read about your experiences with great interest. Am considering a trip to the same area sometime soon. I travel solo and have been tkaing trips with Grand Circle (usually a group of around thirty). Just went with them to Egypt and then Turkey. However, looking at your experiences, it appears much more than what I might see or enjoy with them. However I do like the fact that everyhtin gis arranged and one just has to go woth the flow. Am going to get in touch with JBT and see how it might work for me, the cost being of some consideration. Maybe they can work me into another group of a few people.
Have read about your experiences with great interest. Am considering a trip to the same area sometime soon. I travel solo and have been tkaing trips with Grand Circle (usually a group of around thirty). Just went with them to Egypt and then Turkey. However, looking at your experiences, it appears much more than what I might see or enjoy with them. However I do like the fact that everyhtin gis arranged and one just has to go woth the flow. Am going to get in touch with JBT and see how it might work for me, the cost being of some consideration. Maybe they can work me into another group of a few people.
Jun 25th, 2010, 05:04 AM
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p_gill -- Not sure if they will put groups together. I asked that when I was making my plans & they didn't at that time. But maybe it's changed.
How did you think Grand Circle did in Egypt & Turkey? I'm pretty sure I'll be doing India without my husband sometime in the future and would rather be a single in a group than single with a driver/guide.
How did you think Grand Circle did in Egypt & Turkey? I'm pretty sure I'll be doing India without my husband sometime in the future and would rather be a single in a group than single with a driver/guide.
Jun 25th, 2010, 07:41 AM
#24
Thanks for a great report, Leslie_S! Before you sign up with Grand Circle you might want to check them out with Better Business Bureau and other posters...
p_gill - I travel solo and did a combination of solo and group for Morocco (much smaller group than Grand Circle). I've also used a car and driver a few times, but always feel like that's overkill for one person, but would be a good idea in Morocco for part of a tour. A lot could be solo.
p_gill - I travel solo and did a combination of solo and group for Morocco (much smaller group than Grand Circle). I've also used a car and driver a few times, but always feel like that's overkill for one person, but would be a good idea in Morocco for part of a tour. A lot could be solo.
Jun 25th, 2010, 08:19 AM
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I am going to Morocco in September with OAT, a company that also owns Grand Circle. I have been on 2 OAT trips and 2 Grand Circle trips and can only praise them. the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. I prefer the OAT groups because they are smaller (16 people max).
Our itinerary to Morocco is similar to yours, with a few exceptions.
You write beautifully and we are eagerly looking forward to visiting this wonderful country.
I recently read A House in Fez - a story about a woman who buys a home in the medina and renovates it. Sort of like a Under the Tuscan Sun, Moroccan style. It gives an insight into the local people and culture.
Leslie - where's your next trip to?
Our itinerary to Morocco is similar to yours, with a few exceptions.
You write beautifully and we are eagerly looking forward to visiting this wonderful country.
I recently read A House in Fez - a story about a woman who buys a home in the medina and renovates it. Sort of like a Under the Tuscan Sun, Moroccan style. It gives an insight into the local people and culture.
Leslie - where's your next trip to?
Jun 25th, 2010, 08:24 AM
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Thanks for finishing this great report -- I'm chomping at the bit to go, but have to wait till next year, it's killing me! Like Lolo, I've also just read A House in Fez, so my head is swimming with things Moroccan. Can't wait.
Jun 25th, 2010, 12:20 PM
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I read that book also - and many others about Morocco before I went. If you want the names of some more let me know.
As far as OAT & GC - sounds like a lot of people have nothing but praise but then you do see the large number of BBB complaints & people who've gotten jammed up by being dumped at the last minute. Maybe they've put their problems behind them with new management? Might've read that somewhere.
Lolo - I hope your trip to Morocco with them is wonderful.
My mom & I are going to Estonia, Helsinki, & St. Petersburg next month. That'll be with a group tour so a different type of experience. I'm very much looking forward to it and hope the group gels - sometimes the camaraderie makes the less enchanting aspects of group travel worthwhile.
NanBug - the time will go fast! I planned my trip 2 years out and had a lot of chomping to do, too. More time for you to learn some Berber-dialect Arabic!!
thursdaysd - thanks for reading. I was looking forward to hearing about your travels in the 'stans. Sounds like that's not happening anytime too soon. South America instead?
As far as OAT & GC - sounds like a lot of people have nothing but praise but then you do see the large number of BBB complaints & people who've gotten jammed up by being dumped at the last minute. Maybe they've put their problems behind them with new management? Might've read that somewhere.
Lolo - I hope your trip to Morocco with them is wonderful.
My mom & I are going to Estonia, Helsinki, & St. Petersburg next month. That'll be with a group tour so a different type of experience. I'm very much looking forward to it and hope the group gels - sometimes the camaraderie makes the less enchanting aspects of group travel worthwhile.
NanBug - the time will go fast! I planned my trip 2 years out and had a lot of chomping to do, too. More time for you to learn some Berber-dialect Arabic!!
thursdaysd - thanks for reading. I was looking forward to hearing about your travels in the 'stans. Sounds like that's not happening anytime too soon. South America instead?
Jun 25th, 2010, 12:59 PM
#28
Leslie - I changed the plan for this year a couple of months back. It just wasn't coming together, and then there was the coup in Kyrgyzstan... when I dropped the 'stans and settled on East and South Asia instead, everything started jelling. See http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...y-comments.cfm and my specific planning threads for Japan and South Korea (and soon Taiwan) for details.
South America next year, I think, which puts the 'stans out to 2012 at the earliest. Pity, but it looked like starvation might set in on the Pamir Highway even before things started coming apart around Osh.
South America next year, I think, which puts the 'stans out to 2012 at the earliest. Pity, but it looked like starvation might set in on the Pamir Highway even before things started coming apart around Osh.
Jun 26th, 2010, 04:07 AM
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Ah, I see. Japan, South Korea, etc. sounds fabulous. I know this is N. Korean - but just watched a good doc: State of Mind, about 2 gymnasts training for the mass games.
Good luck finishing planning for this year & hopefully the 'stans settle down for you by 2012.
Good luck finishing planning for this year & hopefully the 'stans settle down for you by 2012.
Jun 26th, 2010, 05:34 AM
#30
Thanks! If you're interested in North Korea I highly recommend this book: http://www.amazon.com/Nothing-Envy-O.../dp/0385523904
I have considered visiting - Koryo among others runs tours - but you have to start from Beijing and I didn't want to go to China on this trip.
I have considered visiting - Koryo among others runs tours - but you have to start from Beijing and I didn't want to go to China on this trip.
Jun 26th, 2010, 04:01 PM
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leslie---spend some time in old town tallinn estonia....a very fabulous town...
check out my trip report for the private driver i used in st petersburg.....he is fabulous and takes people from ships too if you are travelling that way...
check out my trip report for the private driver i used in st petersburg.....he is fabulous and takes people from ships too if you are travelling that way...
Jun 26th, 2010, 10:21 PM
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Leslie,
After reading your entire trip report, we revised our Morocco itinerary to include Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi dunes. It would be a long drive from Fez then on to Marrakech but am sure the experience would be worth it. Thanks again for all the travel tips. You should be a travel writer!
You will love Helsinki, Tallinn and St Petersburg, most especially. My daughter and I joined a 10-day Baltic Sea and Russia cruise last year which we thoroughly enjoyed. Tallinn and Helsinki are very much doable on your own, no need for a tour guide.For SP, we took a 2-day tour with Denrus; it was value-for-money as we covered more places for far less cost than if we booked the shore excursions offered by the cruise line.
After reading your entire trip report, we revised our Morocco itinerary to include Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi dunes. It would be a long drive from Fez then on to Marrakech but am sure the experience would be worth it. Thanks again for all the travel tips. You should be a travel writer!
You will love Helsinki, Tallinn and St Petersburg, most especially. My daughter and I joined a 10-day Baltic Sea and Russia cruise last year which we thoroughly enjoyed. Tallinn and Helsinki are very much doable on your own, no need for a tour guide.For SP, we took a 2-day tour with Denrus; it was value-for-money as we covered more places for far less cost than if we booked the shore excursions offered by the cruise line.
Jun 27th, 2010, 05:54 AM
#34
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thursday - thanks, I've added that to my book list.
rhkkmk - I took lots of notes while reading your trip report. We will be spending a couple of days in Tallinn. I have one extra day unplanned in SP - maybe your driver would be free. I was thinking I'd just arrange something through the hotel (if we wanted to go outside of the city) and play it by ear. Hmm...maybe figuring that day out in advance is a better idea.
bandiroot - I don't think you'll regret that detour. The dunes were spectacular and riding the camels a hoot. Unless you've done that before elsewhere - maybe it's a once in a lifetime variety of hoot for some but I'd be happy to saddle up again some day
NanBug - thanks! Two weeks before we left I got my camera out to get the memory cards ready, etc. and the lens got stuck in the extended position. I was told fixing it would cost more than a new one. Since I didn't feel I had enough time to learn how to use a new model I bought another of my same one (a 5 year old Sony) on ebay for $5 and crossed my fingers. I got lucky that the camera arrived in time and that the pictures came out that well - gotta love ebay.
Have fun learning some Berber or Arabic words - we used 'zween' a lot, means 'beautiful' and also 'delicious.' And 'shwaya' for 'a little.'
rhkkmk - I took lots of notes while reading your trip report. We will be spending a couple of days in Tallinn. I have one extra day unplanned in SP - maybe your driver would be free. I was thinking I'd just arrange something through the hotel (if we wanted to go outside of the city) and play it by ear. Hmm...maybe figuring that day out in advance is a better idea.
bandiroot - I don't think you'll regret that detour. The dunes were spectacular and riding the camels a hoot. Unless you've done that before elsewhere - maybe it's a once in a lifetime variety of hoot for some but I'd be happy to saddle up again some day
NanBug - thanks! Two weeks before we left I got my camera out to get the memory cards ready, etc. and the lens got stuck in the extended position. I was told fixing it would cost more than a new one. Since I didn't feel I had enough time to learn how to use a new model I bought another of my same one (a 5 year old Sony) on ebay for $5 and crossed my fingers. I got lucky that the camera arrived in time and that the pictures came out that well - gotta love ebay.
Have fun learning some Berber or Arabic words - we used 'zween' a lot, means 'beautiful' and also 'delicious.' And 'shwaya' for 'a little.'
Jun 28th, 2010, 05:48 AM
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Leslie - yes, I would love to have some names of other books on Morocco
Thursday - didn't know you were planning a trip to the Stans.
I am set to go next May with a company called MIR. I certainly hope that things cool down in Osh and neighboring areas.
nanbug - I know how it feels to have a camera go bad. My camera was very temperamental on my last trip in May to Germany. Just when I thought I had the perfect picture, the lens wouldn't zoom, or it wouldn't click, or someother disaster. Next trip I am going to bring a spare camera!!
Thursday - didn't know you were planning a trip to the Stans.
I am set to go next May with a company called MIR. I certainly hope that things cool down in Osh and neighboring areas.
nanbug - I know how it feels to have a camera go bad. My camera was very temperamental on my last trip in May to Germany. Just when I thought I had the perfect picture, the lens wouldn't zoom, or it wouldn't click, or someother disaster. Next trip I am going to bring a spare camera!!
Jun 29th, 2010, 05:16 PM
#36
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Lolo12 - here are books I read before my trip which are based in Morocco:
The Sheltering Sky by Paul Bowles
Let It Come Down - PB
The Spider's House - PB
Collected Stories 1939 - 1976 by PB
A Street in Marrakech - Elizabeth Warnock Fernea
Dreams of Trespass: Tales of a Harem Girlhood by Fatima Mernissi
White Gold by Giles Milton
Hope & Other Dangerous Pursuits by Laila Lalami
The Road to Fez by Ruth Knafo Setton
Hideous Kinky by Esther Freud
The Caliph's House: A Year in Casablanca by Tahir Shah
Allah's Garden by Thomas Hollowell
The Voices of Marrakesh by Elias Canetti
What Went Wrong: Western Impact & Middle Eastern Response by Bernard Lewis
(Last one not about Morocco but interesting -- about Islam.)
The Sheltering Sky by Paul Bowles
Let It Come Down - PB
The Spider's House - PB
Collected Stories 1939 - 1976 by PB
A Street in Marrakech - Elizabeth Warnock Fernea
Dreams of Trespass: Tales of a Harem Girlhood by Fatima Mernissi
White Gold by Giles Milton
Hope & Other Dangerous Pursuits by Laila Lalami
The Road to Fez by Ruth Knafo Setton
Hideous Kinky by Esther Freud
The Caliph's House: A Year in Casablanca by Tahir Shah
Allah's Garden by Thomas Hollowell
The Voices of Marrakesh by Elias Canetti
What Went Wrong: Western Impact & Middle Eastern Response by Bernard Lewis
(Last one not about Morocco but interesting -- about Islam.)
Jun 30th, 2010, 04:00 AM
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rhkkmk - if you happen to see this - would you mind if I mention you recommended him? Don't know if you give out your name here - I could be emailed at lesusms @ yahoo dot com if you feel like fooling with that. Thanks in advance.
Jun 30th, 2010, 05:08 AM
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WOW - Leslie - you've given me enough books to last me quite a while. However, considering I don't have unlimited time before we go in September, what would be your 2 or 3 top picks? I love historical novels, easy non-fiction and anything travel-related. Thanks.
