wildlifepainter

My husband and I just returned from safari and I wanted to report back on my impressions.

We did the San Francisco-Wash DC-Dakar-Johannesburg, overnight at Peermont Metcourt Suites then up to Maun & out to Chitabe Lediba for 3 nights, 3 nights Little Vumbura, 3 nights Duma Tau and 2 nights Toka Leya. Here is what I said on the Flood levels topic:

Little Vumbura was our favorite and the heli ride in and out (as well as the boat ride to camp) was fantastic. We spent our game drive time on Vumbura Plains and had excellent sightings. A couple of times we went through deep water (driver got his socks wet) or had to go around but not a huge problem. We were following 3 male lions but missed the actual buff kill because we were going around the deep water part. OK by me as we watched them eat it.

Chitabe Lediba was our 2nd favorite and the water didn't seem an issue except that the monthly dry truck was stuck in the mud for 3 days and never came in while we were there. 2 wonderful leopard sightings.

Duma Tau was our least favorite for a couple of reasons. It turned bitterly cold and it is a much larger camp which makes a difference. Also because of cold there were several drives where we saw next to nothing. On the other hand, we had a wonderful sighting of mama and baby leopard and watched for probably an hour while mama came out of her tree and tried to talked baby down too. The hyenas were on guard at the base of the tree. Again there are more watering holes so how much does that change things and the channel is of course full and beautiful.

Toka Leya in Zambia was a delight. (I never thought I'd be so happy to see a heater and hair dryer.) The Zambezi is very high and full and the water level was no problem. You do get wet touring the falls but it warmed up to dry us off. It was actually quite warm during the days.

lbj2 asked about comparison of Botswana to Tanzania and I do want to respond. They are different. Overall, I feel like Botswana had higher highs and lower lows for us in May/June. I felt that probably every 1 out of 3 game drives was a bust but when we found something it was outstanding.

I feel like I am comparing apples to oranges and then maybe a perfect orange with a slightly unripe apple. I have 2 safari experiences in Tanzania in the prime season with a private vehicle and a personalized schedule. Botswana (Wilderness) was a shared vehicle, with a set schedule and some REALLY cold weather for 2-3 nights at Duma Tau. May/early June is considered (priced) shoulder season entering high season in Bots but I would never consider going again if the temps were to be this cold. I don't do cold! Sleeping is fine with hot water bottles and down comforters, they bring out blankets for dinner and breakfast, but you do have to get out of bed at 5:30am and off for game drive at 6:30. We had the ponchos and hot water bottles in the trucks but we both had brain freeze headaches on 2 morning drives. Also the wildlife tends to stays in bed until it warms up so it wasn't always productive. Tanzania weather in Feb is perfect in my opinion. Is there a perfect time for weather and wildlife in Bots?

Botswana makes you feel very special. The flying in and out of camps, there to greet you every time you arrive in camp, fabulous food, friendly staff and guides, and beautiful camps make for a wonderful holiday experience. I felt like the camps were half empty on a lot of nights. We had a guide and vehicle to ourselves probably 1/3 of the time, never more than 1 other couple with us and we asked and were granted 2 all day drives in Vumbura and Duma Tau. Off roading is so exciting. Some of the guests expect too much, cue the lions...

Tanzania has a broad range of properties but I personally want to stay as close as possible to the middle of the action. Sometimes these lodges/camps can be a little funky and are probably not right for a lot of guests. I LOVE Ndutu Lodge but it is not for everyone and a large part of the attraction for me is the fellow photographer guests and interactions around the charging stations.

Tanzania was cheaper for us but then I didn't pick the Crater Lodge. I had to book Ndutu Lodge 12/13 months in advance for prime season (2008 & 2009) whereas Botswana was booked 9 months out for May 2010. Botswana had a lot of empty beds so I think I could have worked it out with a lot less lead time. I put my reservation in for Tanzania in Feb. 2010 for next Feb 2011 but I don't know if that was necessary in this economy.

I felt like my life may have been in danger on a few occasions in Botswana. We hit and kind of bounced off a hippo going back to Little Vumbura by boat after dark. I wasn't afraid at the moment but what is the back up plan if you tip over? Other hippos were all around. We were watching 3 large male lions eat a baby buff from about 6-8 feet away. One lion took off with the remains and someone in our rover was moving around. Both remaining lions locked eyes on us (and shifted from person to person) for several moments within one leap of our open sided vehicle. I was afraid this time! And then there were 2 occasions when elephants were too close for comfort. A bear banger (noise flare) is not much protection if things were to go badly. On the other hand, a staff member was badly injured and had to be evacuated from Little Vumbura. Sean, the camp manager, and the whole Wilderness operation were impressive to see in action. We were leaving at the time so were part of the boat ride to the dock, helicopter to the airstrip and then the medivac plane arrived and took him from there. They kept 3 planes grounded until the medivac left so as not to dust the injured man. Very impressive and quite fast.

I prefer flying KLM to Africa. SAA was OK but they gave away our window seats going and gave us middle seats that were not together. We were able to move so we were together in the middle section. Both of our bags were opened coming home. Nothing was missing but there was nothing of value either (dirty clothes, chargers, etc.). I was worried about the tighter weight limit and 1 carryon bag policy on SAA but it was not an issue. KLM allows 2 with a higher weight limit. It took 36 hours from airport departure in Zambia to arrival in SFO. Tanzania is 26 hours. The new airport in Johannesburg is a dream. No delays anywhere.

I don't want to come across as negative on Botswana. We had some really fantastic sightings and I am overwhelmed with the photos and videos we captured (I'm hoping as I haven't seen them yet). But we also had some cold bumpy drives. I think I have to give it a month to put it all into perspective. Again, this is my impression of 1 visit to Botswana and 2 visits to Tanzania. Yours will vary.

HariS

Thanks for your report. Much appreciated.

Pity about the bitter cold weather at Duma Tau leading to less than stellar sightings. Then again, it can be hit or miss on any 3 night stretch. Normally, I would guess they are doing very well with their diverse predator sightings (reading their reports, of course......)

What was the nature of injury to the staff member at Vumbura? Glad he was okay.

RE May/June - my guess is now with the wet cycle, it is not as productive as in years past - for example., I was there in 2007 when still dry - Big herds and some stellar viewing.

Pity that the camps are still running half empty.

Thanks again for your report. Please post pictures later on, when possible.

Regards
Hari

atravelynn

That cold really does send the animals into the thicket! I've experienced that too. Rather harrowing at Vumbura, nothing like I recall. Hope the staf member is ok.

Hope you have some material for painting. Thanks for your comments.

cary999

Many thanks for your report.
The wet cycle in Bots may be here for years if I understood the TV program about the 20 year cycle for such there.

Have you been to South Africa yet, like Timbavati, Sabi Sand reserves or even Kruger? If not you should try it next time and then you will have been to most every "safari country". Except maybe you been to Kenya?

regards - tom

lbj2

I would not worry, Wildlifepainter, you do not come across as negative. It is only natural that you compare it to other experiences that you have enjoyed.

I have experienced high water levels in May, and have decided Botswana is off limits to me from April through late August. There is too much risk that game viewing will not match the price compared to other peak season destinations.

As you mention, your Tanzania trip was less expensive, and it is not as if you were staying in the premier camps in the Delta and Linyanti.

That said, I a agree with you that the quality of the sightings in Botswana is second to none, with offroading and plenty of privacy.

An interesting observation on the occupancies, perhaps some larger discounts will be on the way.

Looking forward to your photos & video.

quimbymoy

thanks for your impressions. i am back recently as well (we traveled May 15-30) and am surprised how cold Duma Tau got as we were in that area just 2 weeks ago. we too stayed at Toka Leya. loved it and the attention WS pays to training their people. half the fun was sitting around and talking to the folks who work there. looking forward to seeing your photos too.

(will post my report separately.)

wildlifepainter

Thanks everyone! The staff seemed surprised by the early cold snap but then they all agree that it does get colder over the next few months. They also talked about how hot it gets in the other season. When is the perfect time to go to Botswana?

quimbymoy- The weather was perfect for the first 2 camps or 6 nights so I know it can be great. It wasn't just cold at Duma either as we met up with guests who had been at Vumbura and had felt the cold snap there too.

We missed more than 1 nap visiting with camp staff after lunch and wine. Then you also have after dinner around the campfire. They were a wealth of stories and information and now many feel like friends. The friendliness of the people of Africa has always impressed me.

atravelynn

Questions about Bots vs Tanz often come up. Your comments will be insightful. Cold snaps and high water tables were worth enduring for your exceptional mother cub leopard sighting. Something like that makes the whole trip worthwhile.

shouldbewriting

We planning to go to either Tanzania or to Botswana/Namibia/Zimbabwe (a tour where the 3 countries come together) Sept/Oct, 2011. Am having a hard time deciding the better choice. Will also depart SF & expect to do some beach time after; hoping it will be the Seychelles. I am trying to figure out the most convenient, least exhausting flights in & out SFO. Could you please enlarge yr previous flight experiences, to both countries?
"We did the San Francisco-Wash DC-Dakar-Johannesburg" How long did this take? Layovers? Any info appreciated. Thanks for posting.

wildlifepainter

I prefer KLM to SAA but neither is a reason to pick a destination in my opinion. SFO to JRO is a little more expensive than SFO to JNB but then you're not staying in JNB and those little flights add up. Both are very doable and I really don't mind the long flights as it gives me transition time... This is our flight info for next year to Tanzania on KLM. It's very easy if you take a sleeping pill leaving the US(KLM leaves from several US cities including Seattle, Minneapolis and Dallas I think). I've done Seattle and Minneapolis and I prefer heading East as it breaks up the day better. Walk around the AMS airport and watch movies on the flight into JRO. Since you arrive late in the evening, have a beer and go to bed. Total time is approx 27 hours. Coming home is easier since there is a nonstop leaving AMS straight to SFO for total time of 26 hours. If you go to Zanzibar, do an open jaw ticket and pick up the flight in DAR.

Sat 26FEB DELTA 1480 OK L LV SAN FRANCISCO 710A F **
AR ATLANTA 250P COACH

Sat 26FEB DELTA 238 OK L LV ATLANTA 525P D **
AR AMSTERDAM 820A# COACH

Sun 27FEB DELTA 9407* OK L LV AMSTERDAM 1105A L **
AR KILIMANJARO 930P COACH
TZ
Sat 12MAR DELTA 9407* OK T LV KILIMANJARO 1035P B **
TZ COACH
AR AMSTERDAM 810A

Sun 13MAR DELTA 9380* OK T LV AMSTERDAM 1115A L **
AR SAN FRANCISCO 230P COACH


Going to Botswana takes longer. More like 36 hours. Neither are bad trips with the entertainment systems and lots of meals and WINE and we do fly steerage. Here was our schedule:

Sunday May 23, 2010
SFO to Dulles, United #914 depart@7:55am – 5hr/0mn – arrive @3:55pm
GAP: 1hr/45mn
Dulles to Johannesburg, South African #208 depart@5:40pm – 16hr/40mn -arrive @ 5:20pm
Take ambien after dinner sleep to Dakar then watch movies to JNB.
(fuel stop in Dakar about 8 hrs into flight or half way) sleep over in JNB

Tuesday May 25, 2010 (10hr diff SF)
Johannesbury to Maun, Air Botswanna #212 @ 10:10am – 1hr/40mn – 11:50am
Fly Sefofane up to camp arriving around 2-3pm we made a couple of stops

Saturday June 5, 2010 (10hr diff SF)
Livingstone to Johannesburg, British AW #6292 depart @ 1:30pm – 1hr/45mn – arrive @3:15pm
GAP: 2hr/20mn
Johannesburg to Dulles, South African #207 depart @5:35pm – 19hr/25mn -- arrive 6:00am on June
(fuel stop in Dakar) Take ambien after Dakar
GAP: 3hr/30mn
Dulles to SFO, United #285 depart @9:30am – 5hr/33mn – arrive @ 12:07pm

I hope this helps but ask away as it is all fresh in my mind...

shouldbewriting

OMG so many apologies for only seeing yr reply tonight!!!! I thought if you answered it would come to my e-mail -- don't ask me how I thought you would know that...So I very much appreciated the time & care in yr reply. Will study in detail when not so embarrassed...

spassvogel

Very interesting report particularly regarding the weather and wildlife in Bots.

Also in 2008 they had a bitter cold May (autum in general) where people were freezing on end staying in the tented camps. But - then one appreciates the hot water bottle even more ;-)
That cold front had also hit South Africa: We experienced ICE on the decks at Lion Sands prior to the morning drive.
The cats didn't come out prior to 0800am which was suitable for sleeping in a bit and a late drive which paid off!

Regarding SAA - They did the same to us! We were booked in a 2-seat-row (far in the tail) and they gave it away which meant we were being cramped into middle seat. Won't fly SAA again! Never! Domestic the seats offer more space than internationally. Too much frankly shown greed!

I like your statement regarding the "interaction at charging points". We also appreciate that very much! Exchanging experiences and destinations, joking while having a drink and checking the batteries

Regarding Timbavati and Sabi Sand which tom mentioned: Those "Greater Kruger" reserves are excellent for people who are just after seeing the cats and would not like to dedicate some days into real tracking and searching as those cats almost can be taken for granted.

Zim, ZAM, BOT, TAZ, KEN - all those destinations are by far more WILD than the reserves close to Kruger.

So - if one WANTS to know in advance that he/she will certainly see Leopards - go for those reserves.

If one is more into searching, driving, tracking and loooong hours in the bush....the other destinations are more suitable! But the visitor shouldn't complain about "luck of the draw" or the lack of it!

It's all about personal preferences and expectations.

THX for sharing your experiences!

SV

shouldbewriting

Have reviewed yr itineraries, for which once again many thanks. It is now abundantly clear that no matter how much wine or ambien I have, I will not be up for 26, or, yikes, 36 hours of airplane travel! I suspected this, & once I saw the cold hard numbers it was obvious. Hard enough for me to go 10 hours over the pole to London. I am determined to get to Africa, so will just have to take longer & break up the travel time -- e.g Amsterdam to see the Van Goghs. Appreciate yr time!

kimburu

Shouldbewriting... You can also come via Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Hong Kong, as an alternative. Might or might not be shorter but different stopover options (nothing wrong with Amsterdam though; great place to visit). At least Thai and Singapore would currently get you all the way LA-Johannesburg on one airline, I think.

Eileenof

Wonderful info! Four of us are going to Botswana for 2 weeks, then Vic Falls canoeing on the Zambezi and then a 4-day horse safari in September. Hope we've chosen better time.
Any thoughts about how to preserve one's window seats on SAA? Very important to me!
Oh, actually on the way there, we're going Virgin America from SFO to JFK, then SAA to JNB.
Do they feed you OK on SAA? I can't find info.
Any thoughts about what to do with a day and a half in JNB? Safe to wander in daytime? We're staying at Outlook Lodge, not far from airport. Good restaurants?
Can't wait to see the Ok Delta and all its critters!
We're going on a fairly low cost safari, moveable tents, with Zambezi Safari and Travel Co., to 4 parks in Botswana.
Eileeno

wildlifepainter

Shouldbewriting... I have a hard time with flying just across the US but then I'm good all the way to Africa. I find I need the transistion time that long flights give me when I'm going on a big vacation. With all the hurrying around and last minute things to do at home before you leave, I'm need time to compose and prepare before I arrive at my big adventure. I like to read about or watch movies on the plane about where I'm going or just drink wine and bond with my husband. And I never travel without sleeping pills...

Eileenof... I don't know how to keep your window seats and I too was really upset when we got to New York. We did get seats together so we just made due. Even people with boarding passes were re-assigned on our flight.

The food on SAA was good enough and I have no complaints. They fed us dinner, breakfast and then a snack before we landed (and wine of course!). I wish we had skipped the snack and had a second dinner when we got to JNB. We stayed at the Emporer's Palace complex and there were several good looking places for dinner.

Pack something to cover your face with on the game drives. It gets COLD...