It's a start... Sandi's - Trip Report - Tanzania/Kenya, May/June 2006
Aug 20th, 2006, 05:35 AM
#42
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... sorry folks, just realized I messed up on the dates, but the day is correct.
Day 10 – Friday, June 2, 2006
Same routine, up at the crack of light, shower, dress and finish packing. We’re headed to Tsavo West today, an area of Kenya that neither of us had yet visited. But, sure do wish we had another day to spend at Shompole... to meet up with the other two brothers of The Three Kings, and even leopard.
Unfortunately, we didn’t do the short walk to Little Shompole as the place was “a mess” as we were told, getting ready for the season and some “special” guests due in July. Shompole is wonderful for weddings, though small can between the main lodge and Little accommodate a wedding party with family... and, of course, great for a honeymoon. We had to settle for photos, but just imagine bigger or more lux than main Shompole has to offer. Guess, it’s another reason for a return visit.
At least, this is the last walk down the hill and the leg has held up... some pain, but still attached. However, those bites I got when at Desert Rose are now bigger than ever, itchy and it’s taken all the control I have not to scratch... been very good, if I must say so. I’m a big girl now!
Waiting for my eggs, I run upstairs to the gift shop and buy a t-shirt, returning for my meal just as Ant joins us. It’s been quite an interesting, if another too short a visit. Bookings here are for a minimum of two-days and considering the drive, let along if you choose to fly, to justify the cost; three days would be better.
Breakfast eaten, good-byes to Ava and Graham, Ant drives us to the nearby airstrip. While waiting, we see some of the younger members of the family arrive on the flats with their bikes and a guide who off for a ride around the area. A short wait when we see this very colorful small plane circling for a landing.
We’re being flown by the owner of the company who booked our trip... a private charter to Tsavo. On landing, it took all we had not to laugh at the colors of the plane, which he claimed “is what you get after a night of beer drinking at the Aero Club” at which he is President. A big stocky guy with a hearty laugh rolls out of the pilot seat and walks over to us. While he’s doing this, I notice a passenger in the co-pilot seat, wondering who that could be as we were to be his only passengers. Once introductions are made, he explains that his passenger, a women, as a sole passenger to Tsavo, instead of the scheduled flight for a single paying passenger, offered to fly her... and we’d be getting a refund... her fee for the flight! Wowee! Not much, but some extra money to spend somewhere.
Good-byes and thanking Ant for his hospitality, Susan and I board and are on our way again. Always, when airborne, I’m in heaven - flying over Africa is sensational. Flight time is a little over an hour, on another clear morning. We’ll be flying over Amboseli to Tsavo and of course, we had a pretty clear shot of Kili in the distance. Amboseli, as expected was pretty dry below, but as we reach Tsavo, it’s different... very green.
Upon landing here, we finally meet our plane mate, a women from the States who will be spending about three-weeks in Kenya… five of which here at Finch Hatton’s (she’s been before), up at Kuki Gallman’s Mukatan Reteat, also for about five-days…and a few other stops. Where? I can’t recall, but it wasn’t a shabby (read: inexpensive) itinerary, though June has its benefits in Kenya... low prices. We do spend more time on the airstrip here as Kenya Wildlife Service is very detailed about who lands, papers that have to be checked, so hang out till we’re ready for the short drive to the camp.
The camp is about a 5-minute drive where we’re welcomed with cool drinks, then escorted to our tents. Again, a long walk to the far end of a group of tents overlooking one of the hippo pools. As three women, we are shown tents adjacent to one another... I don’t know whether I’d want to be in this particular area, when there are so few guests around, but then, I have been in years past.
Finch Hatton’s is a typical camp, with 30-tents in three sections, all around the natural hippo pools, with plenty of hippo pods in each; also crocs. And, you can’t beat having these pools to look upon and hear while in/at your tent. We have a twin bedded tent, with nice size bathroom in the rear; flush toilets, running hot & cold water, mini-bar, nice size shower stall and electricity. How wonderful, I can wash and blow-dry my hair, which I haven’t don’t since leaving House of Waine. Hey, if I can survive this, anyone can; it’s especially easy, as the air is clean that neither my hair nor scalp felt dirty during these six days. Admittedly though, those words “yes, hair blowers work here” sounded like winning the Lottery!
The camp is unfenced with plenty of vervet monkeys, baboons and antelope about; at night the hippos do leave the pools, so walking with an askari is a must. During the day, guests are fine walking alone as long as you’re aware of your surrounding, especially the crocs which sometimes leave the water and place themselves on the walkways. It’s a non-event walking back to the dining area for lunch which is served on the terrace.
Before taking our seats though I take a turn to the manager’s office and ask for some kind of “anti-itch” cream, as the ankle is really annoying. Efficiently, the manager extracts their medical supplies, hands me a tube which I liberally apply to all the bites. Fingers crossed, I hope this helps.
With only about six occupied tents, lunch goes quickly, from a menu and served; dessert is great. From the terrace we have a view of one of the hippo pools and know there are crocs on the other size of a downed tree with a sign reading “Caution: to not pass over the other size of this log.” Enough said.
After lunch with have a game drive to Mzima Springs. So along with a gal from the UK, working in Kenya and wanting to get in last minute safari until she can figure a way to return, we’re on our way. The drive is uneventful, but quite interesting in that this environment is new to us. There are lots of antelope, and baboons near the roads; we even see Oryx which is a rarely for me, but they’re too far from the road for good photos.
It’s just short of an hour when we pull into the parking lot, hit the loo first, then meet a guide who will escort us through the area. The walkways are cement and stone, with signs describing the various tree and plant life until we come to the springs which have beautifully clear waters and lots of hippos. I recall from a National Geographic program about the resident pod and a newly born hippo and his ability to survive, which he doesn’t (not from a croc attack though they tried, but from a big big male hippo). There is a tower off a pier with an underwater viewing area to view the activitiy. All I saw were fish, no hippos. Once up in the air, it’s easy to spot the hippos and crocs... the funniest of the latter which looked like a log at the bottom of flowing water, Not! It was a croc with it’s mouth open, just waiting for the fish to flow in. Smart croc and funny to watch.
We spent a bit over an hour, before meeting our guide at the parking lot; meeting and chatting with a local family, visiting here, on a first safari. Even here, with what appeared to be a middle-class family, locals don’t travel too far from home. They were enjoying their time very much on a self-drive trip in their big SUV. Saying our goodbyes, we’re back in the vehicle for return to camp.
Along the way, we came across giraffe, ostrich, those Oryx again (too far away, but lots of them), zebra, antelope, baboons, vervet monkeys. Surprisingly, the roads were in pretty good condition for dirt... we’ve been on worse. We arrive back at camp at about 6:15pm and return to our tent for showers and change of clothing for dinner. Now, dinner is what I’m looking forward to, as everyone has mentioned that Finch Hatton’s has outstanding menus. We’ll see.
Back at the tent, as we walk up onto the deck we find lots of makuti palms... those darn vervets are at it again. They play on the roofs and just “tear up the place.” At least, someone has a job, replacing the palms.
What a relief to open the minibar for a drink. On the honor system, you just mark down what you’ve taken and they charge accordingly; and it’s very inexpensive. I go for the Tusker – what else? And then it’s in for a hot shower, as there’s plenty of water in a real shower - just what's needed.
Before dressing I slather on more of the anti-itch crème on the ankle, which doesn’t look too pretty, but it seems to be helping, thus avoiding my desire to scratch. Once this has soaked in I can put on my slacks, a lightweight sweater and a shawl; the night is comfy and warm, but nowhere as in Shompole. We finish our sundowners on the deck, while watching in the dark the shadows of the hippos and crocs swimming back and forth. We do notice that the hippos are floating down from the other three pools to the one in front of us. Only a few minutes later when the askari comes to escort us to dinner that we see where the hippos are going. Under the foot bridge we cross, we see where these blubberettes leave the pools to graze during the night; return at dawn to the water.
Another reason not to be walking alone, as you don’t want to come face-to-face with one of these guys, cetainly not in the dark. And, since the camp isn't fenced, we see shadows of baboons, vervets and eyes of impala.
Arriving at the dining room, where the few guests are already seated, I must say, this is a lovely room. With high beamed ceiling, crystal chandelier, set tables with silverware, crystal glasses, table cloths and napkins and flowers – true to what Karen and Denys would expect.
Seated near a French-door window which is open (though not to walk thru as there are no steps), we’re presented with appetizer, celery soup (for a non-soup eater, I can still, three months later taste it...outstanding), entre, and desert with coffee of tea. Each course, separated with lemon ice to clear the palate. And, of course, the wine flowed. Service was flawless and quiet... I enjoyed very much. And, yes, their food is excellent... simple, but creative.
Finished, we walk into the African night to find our askari waiting to escort us to our tent. It’s a beautiful night and though the leg is annoying me somewhat, I truck on. Boy, does that bed look good... it’s been a long day from early at Shompole, flying to Tsavo and a full day here.
At least I don’t have to be up for an early game drive; Susan will. I have a date with the hair dryer.
... to be continued
Day 10 – Friday, June 2, 2006
Same routine, up at the crack of light, shower, dress and finish packing. We’re headed to Tsavo West today, an area of Kenya that neither of us had yet visited. But, sure do wish we had another day to spend at Shompole... to meet up with the other two brothers of The Three Kings, and even leopard.
Unfortunately, we didn’t do the short walk to Little Shompole as the place was “a mess” as we were told, getting ready for the season and some “special” guests due in July. Shompole is wonderful for weddings, though small can between the main lodge and Little accommodate a wedding party with family... and, of course, great for a honeymoon. We had to settle for photos, but just imagine bigger or more lux than main Shompole has to offer. Guess, it’s another reason for a return visit.
At least, this is the last walk down the hill and the leg has held up... some pain, but still attached. However, those bites I got when at Desert Rose are now bigger than ever, itchy and it’s taken all the control I have not to scratch... been very good, if I must say so. I’m a big girl now!
Waiting for my eggs, I run upstairs to the gift shop and buy a t-shirt, returning for my meal just as Ant joins us. It’s been quite an interesting, if another too short a visit. Bookings here are for a minimum of two-days and considering the drive, let along if you choose to fly, to justify the cost; three days would be better.
Breakfast eaten, good-byes to Ava and Graham, Ant drives us to the nearby airstrip. While waiting, we see some of the younger members of the family arrive on the flats with their bikes and a guide who off for a ride around the area. A short wait when we see this very colorful small plane circling for a landing.
We’re being flown by the owner of the company who booked our trip... a private charter to Tsavo. On landing, it took all we had not to laugh at the colors of the plane, which he claimed “is what you get after a night of beer drinking at the Aero Club” at which he is President. A big stocky guy with a hearty laugh rolls out of the pilot seat and walks over to us. While he’s doing this, I notice a passenger in the co-pilot seat, wondering who that could be as we were to be his only passengers. Once introductions are made, he explains that his passenger, a women, as a sole passenger to Tsavo, instead of the scheduled flight for a single paying passenger, offered to fly her... and we’d be getting a refund... her fee for the flight! Wowee! Not much, but some extra money to spend somewhere.
Good-byes and thanking Ant for his hospitality, Susan and I board and are on our way again. Always, when airborne, I’m in heaven - flying over Africa is sensational. Flight time is a little over an hour, on another clear morning. We’ll be flying over Amboseli to Tsavo and of course, we had a pretty clear shot of Kili in the distance. Amboseli, as expected was pretty dry below, but as we reach Tsavo, it’s different... very green.
Upon landing here, we finally meet our plane mate, a women from the States who will be spending about three-weeks in Kenya… five of which here at Finch Hatton’s (she’s been before), up at Kuki Gallman’s Mukatan Reteat, also for about five-days…and a few other stops. Where? I can’t recall, but it wasn’t a shabby (read: inexpensive) itinerary, though June has its benefits in Kenya... low prices. We do spend more time on the airstrip here as Kenya Wildlife Service is very detailed about who lands, papers that have to be checked, so hang out till we’re ready for the short drive to the camp.
The camp is about a 5-minute drive where we’re welcomed with cool drinks, then escorted to our tents. Again, a long walk to the far end of a group of tents overlooking one of the hippo pools. As three women, we are shown tents adjacent to one another... I don’t know whether I’d want to be in this particular area, when there are so few guests around, but then, I have been in years past.
Finch Hatton’s is a typical camp, with 30-tents in three sections, all around the natural hippo pools, with plenty of hippo pods in each; also crocs. And, you can’t beat having these pools to look upon and hear while in/at your tent. We have a twin bedded tent, with nice size bathroom in the rear; flush toilets, running hot & cold water, mini-bar, nice size shower stall and electricity. How wonderful, I can wash and blow-dry my hair, which I haven’t don’t since leaving House of Waine. Hey, if I can survive this, anyone can; it’s especially easy, as the air is clean that neither my hair nor scalp felt dirty during these six days. Admittedly though, those words “yes, hair blowers work here” sounded like winning the Lottery!
The camp is unfenced with plenty of vervet monkeys, baboons and antelope about; at night the hippos do leave the pools, so walking with an askari is a must. During the day, guests are fine walking alone as long as you’re aware of your surrounding, especially the crocs which sometimes leave the water and place themselves on the walkways. It’s a non-event walking back to the dining area for lunch which is served on the terrace.
Before taking our seats though I take a turn to the manager’s office and ask for some kind of “anti-itch” cream, as the ankle is really annoying. Efficiently, the manager extracts their medical supplies, hands me a tube which I liberally apply to all the bites. Fingers crossed, I hope this helps.
With only about six occupied tents, lunch goes quickly, from a menu and served; dessert is great. From the terrace we have a view of one of the hippo pools and know there are crocs on the other size of a downed tree with a sign reading “Caution: to not pass over the other size of this log.” Enough said.
After lunch with have a game drive to Mzima Springs. So along with a gal from the UK, working in Kenya and wanting to get in last minute safari until she can figure a way to return, we’re on our way. The drive is uneventful, but quite interesting in that this environment is new to us. There are lots of antelope, and baboons near the roads; we even see Oryx which is a rarely for me, but they’re too far from the road for good photos.
It’s just short of an hour when we pull into the parking lot, hit the loo first, then meet a guide who will escort us through the area. The walkways are cement and stone, with signs describing the various tree and plant life until we come to the springs which have beautifully clear waters and lots of hippos. I recall from a National Geographic program about the resident pod and a newly born hippo and his ability to survive, which he doesn’t (not from a croc attack though they tried, but from a big big male hippo). There is a tower off a pier with an underwater viewing area to view the activitiy. All I saw were fish, no hippos. Once up in the air, it’s easy to spot the hippos and crocs... the funniest of the latter which looked like a log at the bottom of flowing water, Not! It was a croc with it’s mouth open, just waiting for the fish to flow in. Smart croc and funny to watch.
We spent a bit over an hour, before meeting our guide at the parking lot; meeting and chatting with a local family, visiting here, on a first safari. Even here, with what appeared to be a middle-class family, locals don’t travel too far from home. They were enjoying their time very much on a self-drive trip in their big SUV. Saying our goodbyes, we’re back in the vehicle for return to camp.
Along the way, we came across giraffe, ostrich, those Oryx again (too far away, but lots of them), zebra, antelope, baboons, vervet monkeys. Surprisingly, the roads were in pretty good condition for dirt... we’ve been on worse. We arrive back at camp at about 6:15pm and return to our tent for showers and change of clothing for dinner. Now, dinner is what I’m looking forward to, as everyone has mentioned that Finch Hatton’s has outstanding menus. We’ll see.
Back at the tent, as we walk up onto the deck we find lots of makuti palms... those darn vervets are at it again. They play on the roofs and just “tear up the place.” At least, someone has a job, replacing the palms.
What a relief to open the minibar for a drink. On the honor system, you just mark down what you’ve taken and they charge accordingly; and it’s very inexpensive. I go for the Tusker – what else? And then it’s in for a hot shower, as there’s plenty of water in a real shower - just what's needed.
Before dressing I slather on more of the anti-itch crème on the ankle, which doesn’t look too pretty, but it seems to be helping, thus avoiding my desire to scratch. Once this has soaked in I can put on my slacks, a lightweight sweater and a shawl; the night is comfy and warm, but nowhere as in Shompole. We finish our sundowners on the deck, while watching in the dark the shadows of the hippos and crocs swimming back and forth. We do notice that the hippos are floating down from the other three pools to the one in front of us. Only a few minutes later when the askari comes to escort us to dinner that we see where the hippos are going. Under the foot bridge we cross, we see where these blubberettes leave the pools to graze during the night; return at dawn to the water.
Another reason not to be walking alone, as you don’t want to come face-to-face with one of these guys, cetainly not in the dark. And, since the camp isn't fenced, we see shadows of baboons, vervets and eyes of impala.
Arriving at the dining room, where the few guests are already seated, I must say, this is a lovely room. With high beamed ceiling, crystal chandelier, set tables with silverware, crystal glasses, table cloths and napkins and flowers – true to what Karen and Denys would expect.
Seated near a French-door window which is open (though not to walk thru as there are no steps), we’re presented with appetizer, celery soup (for a non-soup eater, I can still, three months later taste it...outstanding), entre, and desert with coffee of tea. Each course, separated with lemon ice to clear the palate. And, of course, the wine flowed. Service was flawless and quiet... I enjoyed very much. And, yes, their food is excellent... simple, but creative.
Finished, we walk into the African night to find our askari waiting to escort us to our tent. It’s a beautiful night and though the leg is annoying me somewhat, I truck on. Boy, does that bed look good... it’s been a long day from early at Shompole, flying to Tsavo and a full day here.
At least I don’t have to be up for an early game drive; Susan will. I have a date with the hair dryer.
... to be continued
Aug 20th, 2006, 08:39 AM
#45
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<b>Sandi</b>:
Great read - I'm really enjoying it! Do you recall - your pilot Hammish that took you to Desert Rose - was he a slight man, dark wavy hair, from New Zealand??
Hope your ankles have recovered from those bites!
<font color="green">Cyn</font>
Great read - I'm really enjoying it! Do you recall - your pilot Hammish that took you to Desert Rose - was he a slight man, dark wavy hair, from New Zealand??
Hope your ankles have recovered from those bites!
<font color="green">Cyn</font>
Aug 20th, 2006, 01:26 PM
#46
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cyn -
Yup, that was Hammish. Did I say OZ earlier, or New Zealand. The latter is correct. Oh, to be a bush pilot in Africa... a great job. And, they're either cute or just so darn good looking.
Nyamera -
No gerunuk, but a pet kudu at Saruni... more on that later.
Cindi -
After another day at Tsavo, it's onto Richards... hopefully, before you depart!
Yup, that was Hammish. Did I say OZ earlier, or New Zealand. The latter is correct. Oh, to be a bush pilot in Africa... a great job. And, they're either cute or just so darn good looking.
Nyamera -
No gerunuk, but a pet kudu at Saruni... more on that later.
Cindi -
After another day at Tsavo, it's onto Richards... hopefully, before you depart!
Aug 20th, 2006, 02:31 PM
#47
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<b>Sandi</b>:
I don't think you said either way - but Hammish is such an unusual name - how many bush pilots named Hammish could be flying out of Nairobi? He was our pilot when we flew from Nairobi to Solio Ranch. We had a great flight with him - and you're right, he was kinda cute!
<font color="green">Cyn</font>
I don't think you said either way - but Hammish is such an unusual name - how many bush pilots named Hammish could be flying out of Nairobi? He was our pilot when we flew from Nairobi to Solio Ranch. We had a great flight with him - and you're right, he was kinda cute!
<font color="green">Cyn</font>
Aug 20th, 2006, 04:11 PM
#48
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sandi:
Loved reading the report thusfar. You and Susan together are a hoot!
You'll have to teach me your special smile at Wilson. I just got charged an extra $60.00 one way for over weight luggage!
Can't wait to read more.
Jan
Loved reading the report thusfar. You and Susan together are a hoot!
You'll have to teach me your special smile at Wilson. I just got charged an extra $60.00 one way for over weight luggage!
Can't wait to read more.
Jan
Aug 20th, 2006, 07:24 PM
#49
Nice reading sandi, I am making notes and re-reading your reports.
Thank you very much for sharing your great journey.
I hope there is more to come
Percy
Thank you very much for sharing your great journey.
I hope there is more to come
Percy
Aug 21st, 2006, 03:30 AM
#50
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jan -
Susan and I do have a lot of fun and good times on our trips.
The Smile! I don't know what it is, but it seems to work. But in all seriousness, recalling your former posts, you do pack/bring lots and lots of goodies for your friends in Kenya; it's gotta add up. Have you considered leaving some of your clothing out? You know you can have laundry done.
Believe me, both of us brought gifts or items that were requested and for all of these extras, something had to give when it came to our own clothing. Granted mine was only children's clothing (w/ the gift boxes folded flat); Susan had some heavier items which she couldn't wait to part with once in Arusha. In both cases, when it came to weighing our own clothing, they came in at about 25/lbs. And, I know I returned home with a few items of clothing not worn... getting better with each trip.
Aren't you lucky, the fee charged is on the first leg, not on each and every one of them. In the scheme of things and number of flights, it's a small amount for your generosity.
Guess, you'll just have to practice some kind of sweet innocent smile in front of the mirror before your next visit.
percy -
Glad you're enjoying. Still another day at Tsavo, then Richard's and Saruni. Work takes priority, but they'll be coming soon, I hope.
Susan and I do have a lot of fun and good times on our trips.
The Smile! I don't know what it is, but it seems to work. But in all seriousness, recalling your former posts, you do pack/bring lots and lots of goodies for your friends in Kenya; it's gotta add up. Have you considered leaving some of your clothing out? You know you can have laundry done.
Believe me, both of us brought gifts or items that were requested and for all of these extras, something had to give when it came to our own clothing. Granted mine was only children's clothing (w/ the gift boxes folded flat); Susan had some heavier items which she couldn't wait to part with once in Arusha. In both cases, when it came to weighing our own clothing, they came in at about 25/lbs. And, I know I returned home with a few items of clothing not worn... getting better with each trip.
Aren't you lucky, the fee charged is on the first leg, not on each and every one of them. In the scheme of things and number of flights, it's a small amount for your generosity.
Guess, you'll just have to practice some kind of sweet innocent smile in front of the mirror before your next visit.
percy -
Glad you're enjoying. Still another day at Tsavo, then Richard's and Saruni. Work takes priority, but they'll be coming soon, I hope.
Aug 21st, 2006, 07:11 AM
#51
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Sandi, I'm so reassured that traveling with a bad leg is doable. I'm leaving for Tanzania next week, still rehabilitating my injured leg, and am a little nervous - but determined to make things work.
I've considered skipping some game drives if I'm feeling tired or overwhelmed. I notice you skip the morning ones. Is this because you want to "sleep in" or are the morning drives less "lucrative" in sightings?
Again, great report -- and great pictures!
I've considered skipping some game drives if I'm feeling tired or overwhelmed. I notice you skip the morning ones. Is this because you want to "sleep in" or are the morning drives less "lucrative" in sightings?
Again, great report -- and great pictures!
Aug 21st, 2006, 11:06 AM
#52
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nevermind -
I don't do morning game drives because I just prefer not. I'm up at 6am (often earlier) and go about having my coffee, showering, dressing and heading for breakfast. It has nothing to do with game sightings as the animals aren't going anywhere. I've had travel companions tell me about their early game sightings and when we go out later have often found the same animals where they were seen earlier.
Being on a private safari, while a travel companion may go out at 6-6:30am, I often choose to go out later on game drives after breakfast - 9am till lunch. The only time I'm "active early" are on those days when we're moving from one park/reserve to another (whether road or air), though I still don't do the morning game drive.
Even on my very first safari 12/hrs ago, I recall going out early the first morning, then asked "why am doing this on my holiday?" - subsequently decided to pass on these.
Glad you enjoyed the photos.
I don't do morning game drives because I just prefer not. I'm up at 6am (often earlier) and go about having my coffee, showering, dressing and heading for breakfast. It has nothing to do with game sightings as the animals aren't going anywhere. I've had travel companions tell me about their early game sightings and when we go out later have often found the same animals where they were seen earlier.
Being on a private safari, while a travel companion may go out at 6-6:30am, I often choose to go out later on game drives after breakfast - 9am till lunch. The only time I'm "active early" are on those days when we're moving from one park/reserve to another (whether road or air), though I still don't do the morning game drive.
Even on my very first safari 12/hrs ago, I recall going out early the first morning, then asked "why am doing this on my holiday?" - subsequently decided to pass on these.
Glad you enjoyed the photos.
Aug 21st, 2006, 08:03 PM
#53
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Sandi,
Thanks for your response to my question about skipping morning game drives. You offered an important reminder -- the safari is a holiday. I want to savor every moment, but not be obsessive. Just being in Africa will be such a gift.
Cheers.
Thanks for your response to my question about skipping morning game drives. You offered an important reminder -- the safari is a holiday. I want to savor every moment, but not be obsessive. Just being in Africa will be such a gift.
Cheers.
Aug 30th, 2006, 02:14 PM
#55
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Day 11 – Saturday, June 3, 2006
I’m up along with Susan when coffee is delivered. She’s out early and I enjoy my coffee on the deck. That finished, it’s time for serious business. I’m into the shower for a good hair washing and then my favorite friend. Plugged in set to go, I’m in heaven, with clean hair and coiffed. After putting more crèam on my ankles, I dress and walk up for breakfast all by myself. It’s beautiful seeing game about and hearing the monkeys in the trees.
Susan isn’t back from her game drive, so I have breakfast. Once she’s back I’m filled in on her sightings… elephants, the first seen on this trip, she got a photo of the oryx, antelope again, turtles, hippos, buffalo, zebra and on and on. She had a good time.
Breakfast concluded, the manager arrives to take us on a tour of the camp. Realizing just how large a property in three different sections, I know that my leg will not hold up, so ask Susan to take good notes, while I retire to a pool lounge where I could be off the leg. The pool is big, clean, with plenty of lounges; a honeymoon couple on the other end, both deeply engrossed in reading and I actually fall into a light sleep.
When Susan returns about an hour later, with the following: there are a few tents close to the dining area for those with disabilities or choosing not to walk long distances; each section has a few king bed tents and one or two family and/or triple tents. The tents are well maintained and spotlessly clean, especially the kitchen, which she said “you could eat off the floor.”
We hang out at the pool till lunch and afterwards we’re heading to the lava fields for our afternoon game drive. Lava fields? Yes, that’s what we’re told. Well, this is a surprise, lava! Are we certain this isn't Hawaii? Of course not, as we saw lava dust at Shompole, on the roads coming into Finch Hatton’s and on our game drive yesterday… something must have blown it’s top.
We spent time at our tent watching the antics of the hippos and the crocs floating by until it was time for our “lava experience.” It’s just Susan and I going out with our guide, having to unlock and raise a gate that crosses the road we have to take out to our destination. Again, we come upon interesting flora… lots of palm trees, lots of lava sand, animals skipping across the roads or curious about the vehicle heading their way, mostly antelope. The baboons are out in the fields and the vervets in the trees.
In the distance we can see the Chuyla Hills in all shades of green and that’s where we’re heading. Surprisingly, the road was in good condition and within an hour, we come to the very sandy Mombasa Road, that cuts across from Nairobi all the way to the coast. Any vehicle along this way kicks up quite a bit of sand/dust.
And, there it is, right in front of us all these black sharp rocks that go on for about 4-miles in all directions; the hills in the distance, still very green. These are the Shetani Lava Fields, created from an exploding crater estimated back about 200/years; pretty recent for a “blow.” You can see where the Mombasa Road travels between the lava having created it’s own way over the years (though sure with some heavy equipment moving the lava to allow a passage.) In the distance you can see where, over the years, green shoots and trees are popping up and regenerating this vast space.
On the return drive we come upon giraffe, oryx, lots of zebra with little ones, often nursing. Not a great amount of game, but some really interesting landscapes. Through the gate, we relock it and continue to the camp.
It was a fairly warm day, so the hot shower back at the tent was welcomed. The night was comfortable, still warm and a pleasant walk to the dining area with our askari leading us. Again, still few guests, so we take the same corner table. At a great vantage point enabling us to see the entirely of this very pretty room.
Needless to say, we had another wonderful dinner with another soup - broccoli which was good, but it wasn't the celery from the previous night still lingering on my tongue. Entre was breast of chicken wrapped in bacon and perfectly baked; and, another delicious desert with Kenyan coffee. Over the years, I had determined it was drinking coffee late in the day keeping me up at night (and not the Lariam I had taken years back), so I now had sleeping pills, so even though I tried to avoid coffee after mid-day, it’s just too good. So with a combination of hot coffee and sleeping pills and my date with the sandman I've been sleeping very well.
Leaving the dining room our escort is waiting for the walk to our tent. Time seems to have gone too quickly! This was Susan’s last safari day. She’s leaving tomorrow night, while I have two more days and will be off to the Masai Mara.
While you count the days until you depart on safari, then forget the days as they pass while on safari – who needs a watch or care about schedules and just go about each day – till you realize time is getting close when you either 1) wish you could stay on for an indefinite amount of time, or 2) can’t wait to get on the plane and be on your way. I opt for #1, but it’s #2 that wins out.
Time is running away even though I have two more days.
... to be continued
I’m up along with Susan when coffee is delivered. She’s out early and I enjoy my coffee on the deck. That finished, it’s time for serious business. I’m into the shower for a good hair washing and then my favorite friend. Plugged in set to go, I’m in heaven, with clean hair and coiffed. After putting more crèam on my ankles, I dress and walk up for breakfast all by myself. It’s beautiful seeing game about and hearing the monkeys in the trees.
Susan isn’t back from her game drive, so I have breakfast. Once she’s back I’m filled in on her sightings… elephants, the first seen on this trip, she got a photo of the oryx, antelope again, turtles, hippos, buffalo, zebra and on and on. She had a good time.
Breakfast concluded, the manager arrives to take us on a tour of the camp. Realizing just how large a property in three different sections, I know that my leg will not hold up, so ask Susan to take good notes, while I retire to a pool lounge where I could be off the leg. The pool is big, clean, with plenty of lounges; a honeymoon couple on the other end, both deeply engrossed in reading and I actually fall into a light sleep.
When Susan returns about an hour later, with the following: there are a few tents close to the dining area for those with disabilities or choosing not to walk long distances; each section has a few king bed tents and one or two family and/or triple tents. The tents are well maintained and spotlessly clean, especially the kitchen, which she said “you could eat off the floor.”
We hang out at the pool till lunch and afterwards we’re heading to the lava fields for our afternoon game drive. Lava fields? Yes, that’s what we’re told. Well, this is a surprise, lava! Are we certain this isn't Hawaii? Of course not, as we saw lava dust at Shompole, on the roads coming into Finch Hatton’s and on our game drive yesterday… something must have blown it’s top.
We spent time at our tent watching the antics of the hippos and the crocs floating by until it was time for our “lava experience.” It’s just Susan and I going out with our guide, having to unlock and raise a gate that crosses the road we have to take out to our destination. Again, we come upon interesting flora… lots of palm trees, lots of lava sand, animals skipping across the roads or curious about the vehicle heading their way, mostly antelope. The baboons are out in the fields and the vervets in the trees.
In the distance we can see the Chuyla Hills in all shades of green and that’s where we’re heading. Surprisingly, the road was in good condition and within an hour, we come to the very sandy Mombasa Road, that cuts across from Nairobi all the way to the coast. Any vehicle along this way kicks up quite a bit of sand/dust.
And, there it is, right in front of us all these black sharp rocks that go on for about 4-miles in all directions; the hills in the distance, still very green. These are the Shetani Lava Fields, created from an exploding crater estimated back about 200/years; pretty recent for a “blow.” You can see where the Mombasa Road travels between the lava having created it’s own way over the years (though sure with some heavy equipment moving the lava to allow a passage.) In the distance you can see where, over the years, green shoots and trees are popping up and regenerating this vast space.
On the return drive we come upon giraffe, oryx, lots of zebra with little ones, often nursing. Not a great amount of game, but some really interesting landscapes. Through the gate, we relock it and continue to the camp.
It was a fairly warm day, so the hot shower back at the tent was welcomed. The night was comfortable, still warm and a pleasant walk to the dining area with our askari leading us. Again, still few guests, so we take the same corner table. At a great vantage point enabling us to see the entirely of this very pretty room.
Needless to say, we had another wonderful dinner with another soup - broccoli which was good, but it wasn't the celery from the previous night still lingering on my tongue. Entre was breast of chicken wrapped in bacon and perfectly baked; and, another delicious desert with Kenyan coffee. Over the years, I had determined it was drinking coffee late in the day keeping me up at night (and not the Lariam I had taken years back), so I now had sleeping pills, so even though I tried to avoid coffee after mid-day, it’s just too good. So with a combination of hot coffee and sleeping pills and my date with the sandman I've been sleeping very well.
Leaving the dining room our escort is waiting for the walk to our tent. Time seems to have gone too quickly! This was Susan’s last safari day. She’s leaving tomorrow night, while I have two more days and will be off to the Masai Mara.
While you count the days until you depart on safari, then forget the days as they pass while on safari – who needs a watch or care about schedules and just go about each day – till you realize time is getting close when you either 1) wish you could stay on for an indefinite amount of time, or 2) can’t wait to get on the plane and be on your way. I opt for #1, but it’s #2 that wins out.
Time is running away even though I have two more days.
... to be continued
Sep 1st, 2006, 11:20 AM
#57
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I loved the safari with Naju. More vehicles should be equipped with a safari pet.
You are so right about counting down the days until the safari, then forgetting what day it is on safari.
It's good your leg is holding up.
You are so right about counting down the days until the safari, then forgetting what day it is on safari.
It's good your leg is holding up.
Sep 3rd, 2006, 02:18 PM
#58
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Day 12 – Sunday, June 4, 2006
We finish our packing so the porters can bring our bags up to Reception. Susan and I go for breakfast on the terrace. It’s a lovely day, as have been all. Unlike last year, we haven’t had any rain, though the skies did look threatening at times. Mid-day temps have been comfortable throughout, even warm to hot at Desert Rose and Shompole; nights comfortable needing only a light sweater or shawl except for those two windy nights at Desert Rose. You couldn’t ask for anything better.
Breakfast eaten, we straighten up our bill for our mini-bar and alcoholic drinks. Having used the entire tube of anti-itch cream I pay the manager for the tube (there had been a sticker on it with a price in Kenya Schillings = USD$3). A bargain as this ointment worked very well. Though when I looked at my ankle, it still seemed to need work, but the desire to scratch was gone.
At the airstrip, our Safari Link flight is circling for a landing. It’ll be only Susan and me flying to Wilson where we land an hour later. Here we’re met by our friend Joyce with our driver/vehicle; can’t believe she’s here on her day off, but she’s such a delight and always goes out of her way for us and her clients. We load up, and drive down the road a few hundred yards to the entry for Air Kenya flights. This is where I will wait for my 3pm flight, while Susan goes into NBO for her day at the Intercontinental till her evening flight via AMS to Boston.
Arriving at Air Kenya, we see the waiting room is full which can only mean “a late flight” to somewhere, probably the Mara. I had the option to check if there would be room for me, but I had no idea if there’d be anyone to pick me up as I wasn’t due till about 4pm. Besides, it was so hectic inside, I wasn’t in the mood to confuse anyone; instead choosing to wait my turn. I had a good book, there’s a coffee shop if I wanted something to eat, and a small souvenir shop if I needed any anything. I’d wait.
We say our goodbyes… the two days would go far too quickly and Susan and I would in touch with one enough in no time once I was home on Wednesday. The guys weigh my bags and as usual give me that look of “lady, you’re overweight” (but only by a few pounds w/printed material) which I leave to the guys to arrange as they put my bags to the side for the later flight. This time I didn’t have to work the wonders of “my smile.” All taken care of, they all depart and I find a spot in the waiting room for myself till those being delayed depart.
Yes, it was the flight to the Mara that was late. Once the season begins, though June is early, it’s not unusual for there to be some back-up, though I’ve never seen it running this late.
By 11:45am, the entire waiting room is mine. So too are the coffee and souvenir shops. I find a corner, make myself comfortable against the cushions, open my book to read through a few chapters.
During the next few hours, there is the flight coming back from the Mara, continuing onto Kili; flight going to Lamu; return flight from Zanzibar for those continuing safari in Kenya or last afternoon till evening flights homebound. Then the place empties out again.
I’m now sitting near the window and door leading out to the ramp, where I see a small plane pull up... it’s 2:40pm; see my two bags placed in the small belly; when the agent signals to me by my first name, to board (they’re probably glad to see I’m on my way somewhere); my own plane, not another soul, just me and another cute bush pilot. You won’t get a complaint from me.
FYI! – Pilots working for Air Kenya and Safari Link are in uniforms, whereas those who fly for Tropic Air (out of Nanyuki) doing mostly private charter and their own scheduled route are in more casual dress, though all seem to have a brown leather jacket.
My winged chariot has seats for 8, but it’s just me. The pilot welcomes me aboard and then looks at me having made myself at home and says, “looks like you’ve done this before!” “sure, I have.” Then mentions, we should be landing in about 45/minutes. The views are beautiful, lots of green and a clear sky. Exactly, 45/min. we land at the Safari Club airstrip. Deplaning, I’m met warmly by Val from Richard’s Camp. A tiny little thing, in short skirt and tank top... it’s obviously hot here. While we wait for my bags to be offloaded, I turn to see that the pilot is boarding passengers and their bags, and don’t see my bags on the grass. When I walk over to inquire, he say “no bags.” Ok, I saw my bags loaded in Nairobi, so I calmly ask that he have the new bags unloaded so I can take a peek inside the compartment. Sure, enough he unloads bags and mine aren’t there; when I notice another compartment and sure enough, there are my two bags and when I turn to look at the pilot, he’s got this wide sneaky smile from ear-to-ear. To which I respond, “lucky I’m not a first time safari guest, or there would be one very upset person standing here.” He gives another sneaky smile when I realize, he’s flirting! Well, well... a bush pilot. I smile back and just hand him my business card, we shake hands and I head off with Val. Once in the vehicle, I turn for a last glance to the runway and sure enough the pilot it looking our way, I smile and wave. Then as Val and I turn out of the airstrip we break up laughing! I’m laughing as I write this. You’ve gotta watch out for those bush pilots, they’re such flirts.
I can’t drive manual/stick, I’ve tried (though maybe if it meant saving my life), but Val was a star over some really lousy road, which she mentions happen to be the worst to the camp, but the shortest. Sawa sawa! About 15-minutes and then, there it is a wide open green lawn... not what I expected. Boy, is this refreshing, where all the tents are surrounding this expanse of green – the public tent/lounge, then the tents with plenty of distance between them.
During the drive I had mentioned to Val that when I arrived at Wilson, the Mara flights were delayed and thought to give a try to get the earlier flight, but had no way to contact the camp for a pick-up. To which she said, she actually had guests on that flight, and it would have worked. I was surprised by this as prior leaving NY I had checked the occupancy for both Richard’s and Saruni; Richard’s only showed 3/tents occupied. Well, that was correct, but for some last-minute bookings; they had a full house.
I was escorted to my tent, #1, closest to the public area, but far enough away that it was actually quiet. These were traditional canvas tents, with sleeping area up front and bathroom in the rear, with an additional area between both as a dressing room, easily 7-10’ in depth, with lovely handcrafted metal armoire, hangers and shelves in place of a closet. A nice extra.
I take out a few items for later and join the other guests at the lounge with a great selection of cakes, tea, coffee and soft-drinks, before our game drive. The other guests consisted of a family from Santa Barbara, CA – mother, father and two college-aged daughters; parents had been on safari before as had one of the daughters, but a first for the second daughter. Also a single guy from Amsterdam and another from Germany or maybe Switzerland (couldn’t quite tell from his accent and didn’t learn later). And a young guy, maybe 17 or 18, from the UK, an avid “bird-man” spending part of his GAP year traveling; very well spoken, personable and very very smart for his age.
While finishing my nibbles, approaching me is a familiar face who seems to recognize me and as Val is about to introduce us, we reintroduce ourselves. It’s Daryl, who was with us at Cottar’s last year. Recognition at first sight. Seems Daryl made the move in January after having spent about 5/years at Cottar’s. It’s not unusual for guides to move from camp-to-camp... they need periodic changes, as do most of us living anywhere.
After the formalities of catching up, I join the family, with Daryl as guide for our afternoon game drive. I’m seated in the front, the parents behind us, the daughters on the row, and one last where the tracker was seated.
From the beautiful sunny, warm, in fact hot weather when I landed, it’s now turned gray and nasty, looked like rain. But off we went. There’s a spattering of antelope, wildebeests, topi, and jackel out there, when we spot at a distance, three vehicles in one area. Naturally, they’ve come across something, so we drive over but keep our distance. It takes only a second that I spot the cheetah, but thru the nocs Daryl could see two cubs... very young/tiny cubs. To me, those other vehicles are just too close, as the mother is up and down and seemed agitated. Thankfully, one of the drivers was smart enough to back off and the others followed giving her enough berth and she settles down. As the sky turns dark, a few drops of rain show on the windscreen and the other vehicles head off. Good, now we can move up though keep our distance.
The cubs sure are tiny with barely open eyes... meaning they’re between 2-3/weeks old. Their eyes usually open by 3/weeks. They’re so far down in the high grass, it’s somewhat understandable why the other vehicles came in so close, though still not a good idea. For whatever could be seen on the photo I took was with the zoom and the father in the rear seat with a larger zoom didn’t do much better.
We sat there awhile, when we noticed the mother up and actually moving away, eyes in all directions; she actually went a good distance, leaving the little ones alone. But the skies were dark, threatening and it wasn’t 5 o’clock, almost as the skies would be at about 6:45-7pm. We all wondered whether the rain would blow over, but moved away from the cubs about half a mile where we came across lots of giraffe. They all seemed to be focused on one thing, the African gardenia trees where about five or six giraffe would nibble, then move to another tree; another group came over and nibbled and more, then another. It was quite interesting watching this, all taking their turns, but from our distance and the dark it was difficult to see just how many blossoms were there to nibble.
Moving on, there was a small clump of trees and bushes and this is where we find Simba - three females moving about. One walked in front of us, the other two coming up from the rear. It seemed as if they were ready to hunt, but for what as there wasn't much out there. And though for us it was dark, they may have seen something of interest. But, then they turned back to the trees and bushes and stayed for the duration. We, instead moved away from the cats to a nearby desert date tree for sundowners. Well, the sun had sure gone down, but custom is custom and the bar was open. Or as I say “does it really matter the time, the flag is up over the yardarm somewhere.”
While I declined a beverage – I don’t drink when out on drives – the others did partake while I dug into the chips. Conversation was fun, especially from the daughter for whom this was her first safari who was certainly enjoying herself. By the time we finished, the sky hadn’t lightened and it was difficult to see much, even with the spotlight, so we headed back to camp.
Val met us with the camp dog, Foxy on a leash (good idea in the dark), with a light directing us to where the guys were already seated around the campfire having returned just a few minutes ahead of us. Once seated, I was glad to have a drink. I know I mentioned this earlier, but the young guy from the UK on his Gap year was quite amazing. His knowledge of birds was something else; he was looking forward to spending sometime at Elephant Pepper Camp for a few weeks working with the guides and camp management. He actually got himself a job! Good for him.
The few drops of rain we had on the plains, were all there was. Though the sky was threatening the rain went elsewhere and we were sitting under a beautiful star-filled sky where we were to have dinner. We adjourned to the beautifully set long family-style table under the trees. With a full house and equal number of gals and guys, we were able to sit boy-girl-boy-girl all around. I was at the end of table with Daryl to my left, the husband across from me, the rest down the table.
Dinner was excellent (don’t remember what I ate, but there was no celery soup); conversation even better, especially listening to the “kids.” Then there were us “older” folks who were getting such a charge out of them. As we were enjoying dessert, Val came over to the husband and whispered something to him… “hey, we’ve filled the Victorian tub for you and the misses, anytime you’re ready” at which he excused himself, as his wife passed behind me. How cute!
Finishing with after dinner drinks, Daryl and I caught up. I then took my leave as it was getting on about 9:30. Early for me, but I was really tired tonight, maybe because of the waiting at the Wilson. The rest of the gang was retiring to the lounge. Surprisingly, though my tent was closest, once I hit the pillow, I didn’t hear a thing and was out with the lights!
Tomorrow is my last day! Awe shucks!
...to be continued
We finish our packing so the porters can bring our bags up to Reception. Susan and I go for breakfast on the terrace. It’s a lovely day, as have been all. Unlike last year, we haven’t had any rain, though the skies did look threatening at times. Mid-day temps have been comfortable throughout, even warm to hot at Desert Rose and Shompole; nights comfortable needing only a light sweater or shawl except for those two windy nights at Desert Rose. You couldn’t ask for anything better.
Breakfast eaten, we straighten up our bill for our mini-bar and alcoholic drinks. Having used the entire tube of anti-itch cream I pay the manager for the tube (there had been a sticker on it with a price in Kenya Schillings = USD$3). A bargain as this ointment worked very well. Though when I looked at my ankle, it still seemed to need work, but the desire to scratch was gone.
At the airstrip, our Safari Link flight is circling for a landing. It’ll be only Susan and me flying to Wilson where we land an hour later. Here we’re met by our friend Joyce with our driver/vehicle; can’t believe she’s here on her day off, but she’s such a delight and always goes out of her way for us and her clients. We load up, and drive down the road a few hundred yards to the entry for Air Kenya flights. This is where I will wait for my 3pm flight, while Susan goes into NBO for her day at the Intercontinental till her evening flight via AMS to Boston.
Arriving at Air Kenya, we see the waiting room is full which can only mean “a late flight” to somewhere, probably the Mara. I had the option to check if there would be room for me, but I had no idea if there’d be anyone to pick me up as I wasn’t due till about 4pm. Besides, it was so hectic inside, I wasn’t in the mood to confuse anyone; instead choosing to wait my turn. I had a good book, there’s a coffee shop if I wanted something to eat, and a small souvenir shop if I needed any anything. I’d wait.
We say our goodbyes… the two days would go far too quickly and Susan and I would in touch with one enough in no time once I was home on Wednesday. The guys weigh my bags and as usual give me that look of “lady, you’re overweight” (but only by a few pounds w/printed material) which I leave to the guys to arrange as they put my bags to the side for the later flight. This time I didn’t have to work the wonders of “my smile.” All taken care of, they all depart and I find a spot in the waiting room for myself till those being delayed depart.
Yes, it was the flight to the Mara that was late. Once the season begins, though June is early, it’s not unusual for there to be some back-up, though I’ve never seen it running this late.
By 11:45am, the entire waiting room is mine. So too are the coffee and souvenir shops. I find a corner, make myself comfortable against the cushions, open my book to read through a few chapters.
During the next few hours, there is the flight coming back from the Mara, continuing onto Kili; flight going to Lamu; return flight from Zanzibar for those continuing safari in Kenya or last afternoon till evening flights homebound. Then the place empties out again.
I’m now sitting near the window and door leading out to the ramp, where I see a small plane pull up... it’s 2:40pm; see my two bags placed in the small belly; when the agent signals to me by my first name, to board (they’re probably glad to see I’m on my way somewhere); my own plane, not another soul, just me and another cute bush pilot. You won’t get a complaint from me.
FYI! – Pilots working for Air Kenya and Safari Link are in uniforms, whereas those who fly for Tropic Air (out of Nanyuki) doing mostly private charter and their own scheduled route are in more casual dress, though all seem to have a brown leather jacket.
My winged chariot has seats for 8, but it’s just me. The pilot welcomes me aboard and then looks at me having made myself at home and says, “looks like you’ve done this before!” “sure, I have.” Then mentions, we should be landing in about 45/minutes. The views are beautiful, lots of green and a clear sky. Exactly, 45/min. we land at the Safari Club airstrip. Deplaning, I’m met warmly by Val from Richard’s Camp. A tiny little thing, in short skirt and tank top... it’s obviously hot here. While we wait for my bags to be offloaded, I turn to see that the pilot is boarding passengers and their bags, and don’t see my bags on the grass. When I walk over to inquire, he say “no bags.” Ok, I saw my bags loaded in Nairobi, so I calmly ask that he have the new bags unloaded so I can take a peek inside the compartment. Sure, enough he unloads bags and mine aren’t there; when I notice another compartment and sure enough, there are my two bags and when I turn to look at the pilot, he’s got this wide sneaky smile from ear-to-ear. To which I respond, “lucky I’m not a first time safari guest, or there would be one very upset person standing here.” He gives another sneaky smile when I realize, he’s flirting! Well, well... a bush pilot. I smile back and just hand him my business card, we shake hands and I head off with Val. Once in the vehicle, I turn for a last glance to the runway and sure enough the pilot it looking our way, I smile and wave. Then as Val and I turn out of the airstrip we break up laughing! I’m laughing as I write this. You’ve gotta watch out for those bush pilots, they’re such flirts.
I can’t drive manual/stick, I’ve tried (though maybe if it meant saving my life), but Val was a star over some really lousy road, which she mentions happen to be the worst to the camp, but the shortest. Sawa sawa! About 15-minutes and then, there it is a wide open green lawn... not what I expected. Boy, is this refreshing, where all the tents are surrounding this expanse of green – the public tent/lounge, then the tents with plenty of distance between them.
During the drive I had mentioned to Val that when I arrived at Wilson, the Mara flights were delayed and thought to give a try to get the earlier flight, but had no way to contact the camp for a pick-up. To which she said, she actually had guests on that flight, and it would have worked. I was surprised by this as prior leaving NY I had checked the occupancy for both Richard’s and Saruni; Richard’s only showed 3/tents occupied. Well, that was correct, but for some last-minute bookings; they had a full house.
I was escorted to my tent, #1, closest to the public area, but far enough away that it was actually quiet. These were traditional canvas tents, with sleeping area up front and bathroom in the rear, with an additional area between both as a dressing room, easily 7-10’ in depth, with lovely handcrafted metal armoire, hangers and shelves in place of a closet. A nice extra.
I take out a few items for later and join the other guests at the lounge with a great selection of cakes, tea, coffee and soft-drinks, before our game drive. The other guests consisted of a family from Santa Barbara, CA – mother, father and two college-aged daughters; parents had been on safari before as had one of the daughters, but a first for the second daughter. Also a single guy from Amsterdam and another from Germany or maybe Switzerland (couldn’t quite tell from his accent and didn’t learn later). And a young guy, maybe 17 or 18, from the UK, an avid “bird-man” spending part of his GAP year traveling; very well spoken, personable and very very smart for his age.
While finishing my nibbles, approaching me is a familiar face who seems to recognize me and as Val is about to introduce us, we reintroduce ourselves. It’s Daryl, who was with us at Cottar’s last year. Recognition at first sight. Seems Daryl made the move in January after having spent about 5/years at Cottar’s. It’s not unusual for guides to move from camp-to-camp... they need periodic changes, as do most of us living anywhere.
After the formalities of catching up, I join the family, with Daryl as guide for our afternoon game drive. I’m seated in the front, the parents behind us, the daughters on the row, and one last where the tracker was seated.
From the beautiful sunny, warm, in fact hot weather when I landed, it’s now turned gray and nasty, looked like rain. But off we went. There’s a spattering of antelope, wildebeests, topi, and jackel out there, when we spot at a distance, three vehicles in one area. Naturally, they’ve come across something, so we drive over but keep our distance. It takes only a second that I spot the cheetah, but thru the nocs Daryl could see two cubs... very young/tiny cubs. To me, those other vehicles are just too close, as the mother is up and down and seemed agitated. Thankfully, one of the drivers was smart enough to back off and the others followed giving her enough berth and she settles down. As the sky turns dark, a few drops of rain show on the windscreen and the other vehicles head off. Good, now we can move up though keep our distance.
The cubs sure are tiny with barely open eyes... meaning they’re between 2-3/weeks old. Their eyes usually open by 3/weeks. They’re so far down in the high grass, it’s somewhat understandable why the other vehicles came in so close, though still not a good idea. For whatever could be seen on the photo I took was with the zoom and the father in the rear seat with a larger zoom didn’t do much better.
We sat there awhile, when we noticed the mother up and actually moving away, eyes in all directions; she actually went a good distance, leaving the little ones alone. But the skies were dark, threatening and it wasn’t 5 o’clock, almost as the skies would be at about 6:45-7pm. We all wondered whether the rain would blow over, but moved away from the cubs about half a mile where we came across lots of giraffe. They all seemed to be focused on one thing, the African gardenia trees where about five or six giraffe would nibble, then move to another tree; another group came over and nibbled and more, then another. It was quite interesting watching this, all taking their turns, but from our distance and the dark it was difficult to see just how many blossoms were there to nibble.
Moving on, there was a small clump of trees and bushes and this is where we find Simba - three females moving about. One walked in front of us, the other two coming up from the rear. It seemed as if they were ready to hunt, but for what as there wasn't much out there. And though for us it was dark, they may have seen something of interest. But, then they turned back to the trees and bushes and stayed for the duration. We, instead moved away from the cats to a nearby desert date tree for sundowners. Well, the sun had sure gone down, but custom is custom and the bar was open. Or as I say “does it really matter the time, the flag is up over the yardarm somewhere.”
While I declined a beverage – I don’t drink when out on drives – the others did partake while I dug into the chips. Conversation was fun, especially from the daughter for whom this was her first safari who was certainly enjoying herself. By the time we finished, the sky hadn’t lightened and it was difficult to see much, even with the spotlight, so we headed back to camp.
Val met us with the camp dog, Foxy on a leash (good idea in the dark), with a light directing us to where the guys were already seated around the campfire having returned just a few minutes ahead of us. Once seated, I was glad to have a drink. I know I mentioned this earlier, but the young guy from the UK on his Gap year was quite amazing. His knowledge of birds was something else; he was looking forward to spending sometime at Elephant Pepper Camp for a few weeks working with the guides and camp management. He actually got himself a job! Good for him.
The few drops of rain we had on the plains, were all there was. Though the sky was threatening the rain went elsewhere and we were sitting under a beautiful star-filled sky where we were to have dinner. We adjourned to the beautifully set long family-style table under the trees. With a full house and equal number of gals and guys, we were able to sit boy-girl-boy-girl all around. I was at the end of table with Daryl to my left, the husband across from me, the rest down the table.
Dinner was excellent (don’t remember what I ate, but there was no celery soup); conversation even better, especially listening to the “kids.” Then there were us “older” folks who were getting such a charge out of them. As we were enjoying dessert, Val came over to the husband and whispered something to him… “hey, we’ve filled the Victorian tub for you and the misses, anytime you’re ready” at which he excused himself, as his wife passed behind me. How cute!
Finishing with after dinner drinks, Daryl and I caught up. I then took my leave as it was getting on about 9:30. Early for me, but I was really tired tonight, maybe because of the waiting at the Wilson. The rest of the gang was retiring to the lounge. Surprisingly, though my tent was closest, once I hit the pillow, I didn’t hear a thing and was out with the lights!
Tomorrow is my last day! Awe shucks!
...to be continued
Sep 4th, 2006, 07:36 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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Oh, thanks, Sandi...this is the part of your trip I was waiting for! I want to try the Victorian tub- I wonder how we'll accomplish that, though, since we will be 3 couples together...have to take turns, I guess..sounds very romantic! Can't wait for your next installment....
Cindy
Cindy
