pixelpower

Ummm... I just realized I forgot to add Mohlabetsi lodge to the list of lodges "in the reserves I did not choose".

That is highly unfair as Michaela (from that lodge) gave me lots of useful information. They also have a great deal together with Iketla lodge (non-wildlife; it's near Blyde rivier canyon). This would certainly appeal to people who have not seen the area yet.

So here you go:

Lodge: Mohlabetsi Lodge
Location: Balule Game Reserve
Web: http://www.mohlabetsi.co.za
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1650/165/245

Ciao,

J.

spassvogel

PP and BK
It's meant to be an information and nothing else - except for the lion walks etc.

Anybody can choose whatever is available and knowing about things doesn't hurt; decisions made based on all sorts of info doesn't necessarily means limitations.

SV

Bushkid0

Hi SV,

No problem. The info you provide is extremely valuable. You have given a number of links to threads of great importance and interest.

I was quite impressed about the outcome of the hunting fiasco on Klaserie, by the way. It appears that SanParks took the matter up with the reserve and with various parties involved, and a very strong message of disapproval was sent.

I understand that the PH's hunting licences were suspended for a year (unfortunately not revoked permanently, which would have sent the right message), and Klaserie has been warned to toe the line.

I trust that the old boy is safe (for now)!

I fully agree about the lion walks though! But that's already been debated ad infinitum. I'm not going to say anything further here tho' ...

atravelynn

You've saved people looking for something similar loads of time!

No jus or compote was pretty funny. Considering a compote can be 3 kinds of fruit chopped up, you may end up with one after all.

When you return, I'd love a report to see where you ended up and what you thought of the places. You can then prove me right or wrong about the compote.

jczinn

I have to take issue with this statement about Kruger:

>>Note that I've visited Kruger before (in 2000). And yes, I know that you can stick to a 2-wheel drive. But that would mean staying on main roads. It would be far from the experience I consider to be a safari; driving on asphalt, looking at nature from behind closed windows...<<

You certainly don't need 4WD to use the non-paved roads in Kruger. We spent a week there in November in a non 4WD vehicle and only once chose not to take a particular dirt road (due to it being quite rainy hence somewhat muddy.) And if you are behind closed windows in Kruger, then you are also making a huge mistake! We only closed our windows when the rain was pouring in, and sometimes not even then. Yes, you do of course need to remain in your vehicle and not stick appendages out the window, but you certainly can, and should, keep them open! How else can you hear the sounds and smell the smells?

Also, to add another lodge to your Sabi Sand list--we stayed at both Elephant Plains and Nkorho. Nkorho is only slightly more expensive than EP and definitely on par, if not a bit nicer in some ways. We preferred Nkorho's grounds and pool, and intimate feel (only 7 rooms) to EP's, although EP had better food.

cary999

Re Kruger, agree with jczinn. You don't use 4WD, any Avis rental car out of JNB will do fine. Most roads are not asphalt but smooth gravel. Leave the windows down. We have been among/surrounded by elephants, zebra, giraffe, buffalo, baboons there as much as in any safari camp. But as for big cats, well, you do need a private camp for that up-close-and-personal thrill. We like to start our safari in Kruger. After flying many hours from USA Kruger is a wind down, a jet lag cushion, and time cushion before going to private camps. Done this three times and I'm sure we will be back in Kruger.

regards - tom

Treepol

Pixelpower,

thank you so much for this extremely useful list of traditional and affordable camps. Some I have on my list of maybes, but most are new to me. I applaud the Shindzela philosophy and have bookmarked your thread for future safari planning.

Bushkid0 and jczinn some good recommendations for Umlani and Nkhoro as well.

I have Lawrence Anthony's book <i> Elephant whisperer</i> in my reading pile and will read it next.

Looking forward to the report...

Cheers,


Pol

pixelpower

Hey guys & girls,

A few replies on the latest posts:

1) D'oh! I forgot to mention Nkhoro! It is actually also on the list of lodges I looked at. The thing is; it does not advertise prices on the website. Therefore, I only asked for prices after EP told me they had no place for us. However, by the time I got the prices, I already managed to switch EP days with Pungwe days, so I had no more need for Nkhoro.

2) About 4WD versus 2-wheel in Kruger; I think you missed my point. Perhaps of course, because I did not explain well. My only intention was to point out the difference between a self-drive safari in Kruger NP with a rented vehicle versus a safari in a private concession in one of the reserves flanking Kruger NP. To name a few differences:
- Roads to take. If you rent a vehicle, it'll probably be a normal car. I've seen plenty of these when I was there. And I'm sorry but that to me is NOT the right vehicle. Sure, perhaps there are quite a few roads you can take. If the weather is fine perhaps even some dirt tracks. But the point is; you can hardly go where a 4WD can go.
- The feel you get. You're looking from behind the glass. Yes, sure, you can open the windows to let the smell in, but the biggest part of your view is through the front window. Which is not a window you can lay down, like with the typical safari 4WD vehicles.
- Space to move. a car is sooo very small inside. Want to get a good shot through your window? Well, if you follow the Kruger rules, your lens should not stick out of the window. My head is 30cm from the windows, my lens is 55cm long. You do the math. There's also the roof; photographing predators flying overhead is almost impossible. Standing up through an opened roof is - understandably - prohibited. I hope it's clear; it's much easier to take a shot from an open jeep.
- and even if you would rent a 4WD vehicle that comes close to the feel of a real "safari vehicle": you still miss that guide. A person who can spot the animals much better than you do. A person wo knows where to drive to, where the most interesting spots are.

So bottom line is, people; there IS a huge difference between the two types off travel. I've seen both. I know which one I prefer.

I also know what most people will do if they do a self-drive there. It's what I would do, what every Joe Average would do; perhaps take a side road here or there, but don't drive too far from the main roads because you might get lost, you might get stuck, you might damage the car. and the trip can get very expensive.
So even if YOU know where to drive and don't spend a lot of time on asphalt, that does not mean that MOST OTHERS dare to do the same. I've seen all the people on the asphalt. I've seen the traffic jams.

3) Pol, if you read a lot, here's a golden tip: get the latest book ("In bushveld and desert") from Chris Bakkes. It is the best I've read in years.

Ciao,

J.

pixelpower

Oh and Lynn: we say "compote" to something which is basically just crushed apples, and to the thing you rub out of your eyes in the morning.

But I know in high cuisine it is used an exquisite way to name a course that is often quite simple to prepare.

I guess Shindzela is making fun of this latter use of the word. And when they mix three fruits, I'm sure they'll call it "mixed fruit". ;-)

Ciao,

J.

Gritty

Hi pixelpower,

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't know you had already been to Kruger. I thought you were probably exaggerating about your expected state of public rest camps, but I didn't know if you had experienced Kruger's camps in person. I just wanted to make sure that others who read this thread know that their rest camps are very clean and well-maintained. It was a bit of a shock to visit Kruger camps and then go to Etosha's public camps a few years ago (before they supposedly renovated their camps). At that time, Etosha's camp facilities were really run-down. It's too bad to hear about Botswana's camps as well. I'm seriously considering renting a kitted-out 4x4 in Joburg and self-driving northern Botswana this year. I was expecting run-down camps, but at $50/night?!!? Yikes. I like to camp because it's cheap, and that's not cheap!

I really do appreciate your efforts to show us all the more budget-oriented options that the Kruger area has to offer. I've been curious about checking out some of the less-expensive private reserves, but my travel style isn't well-suited for these types of places. I don't really like being driven around all day looking for stuff when I can do it myself, and I don't mind what little traffic there is in Kruger because I'm used to the crowds at the U.S. parks. I escape the crowds eventually by doing the Wilderness Trails. However, the prices for the places you've referred to are pretty reasonable and are somewhat competitive with Kruger self-drive trips. Perhaps my curiosity will get the best of me someday and I'll check one out. I've not been too interested before because I didn't want to shell out lots of money and then not like it.

spassvogel

Pixelpower
As I have not read all the posts maybe it came up already:

The more budget conscious ppaces mostly put 3 peaople in one row. So vehicles can get crowded. Particularly sad if one is a serious photographer, has his/her photo backpack on the lap - not to mention to sit in the middle seat and all the shaking/moving etc.
Rotating might not always be an option if there are several photographers inboard.

Just be aware!

E.g. EP has 9 people in one vehicle when it's crowded

But wildlife wise - it's a bargain in SS terms!

SAV

atravelynn

Can we also see your final itinerary before you depart?

cary999

SV - good points about photography, of which I'm very keen about. And as you know, many photographers hire a private vehicle just so they have maximum control over their photography. But this certainly blows a huge hole in the budget with your private vehicle adding at least $200-300 per day to your camp cost.

And I just have to add about Kruger. Kruger is different from a private safari camp in many ways. Some people will love it, some won't, but if you love safaris, Kruger is very much worth a few days try once. The main cost of doing it will be your time, not your $$$.

regards - tom

pixelpower

Hey SV,

Yeah I know that. But unfortunately, there's not much I can do about it. I'm either out of budget (more exclusive lodges offering more jeep space, or hiring a private vehicle is out of the question) or out of options (the formula like we had in Botswana does not exist in South Africa, or is again out of our budget range). So I guess I'll have to make the best of it, and hope some seats stay empty.

In my eyes, the ideal formula is a non-participating private camping safari. Like we had with Ewan Masson. It comes down to this:
- private guide & vehicle
- the essential comfort
- great food
- as close to nature as you can get
- affordable
- private camp sites = just you, no crowds

Well, to be honest it's not 100% perfect either. I can think of at least on flaw; you are not allowed to off-road. Something that we will be able to do now.

About photography & the dragging around all the gear; I think I'm a bit passed that stage now. How many more pics can I take? I'd rather let the encounter with the animal sink in. That is why this time I opted for plenty of walks. Will I still shoot pics? Sure. I'll have one camera body with one tele lens on my lap. And some batteries and cards in my pocket. But that' it. And I'll only use it when the opportunity is really great. My wife also has a HD digicam now. It weighs as light as a feather and takes up no space at all. So we'll have some great footage anyway. And on walks, I can take a wide angle lens...

Lynn,

My final itinerary is already written down somewhere higher up. It's:
- 3N "Africa On Foot", Klaserie GR, Kruger
- 3N "Shindzela Lodge", Timbavati GR, Kruger
- 3N "Elephant Plains", Sabi Sands GR, Kruger
- 3N "Pungwe Lodge", Manyeleti GR, Kruger
- 4N "Nyati Beach Lodge", Mozambique
We leave mid september.

Ciao,

J.

Treepol

Pixelpower,

I bought the Chris Bakkes book in Namibia in 2008 - read it on the plane home and thoroughly enjoyed it. I have a bibliography of over 200 books on Africa that I have read - happy to share if you'd like a copy.

How do you plan to transfer between these lodges? Do you need to fly, or are the lodges happy to arrange a ground transfer at a reasonable rate?

Cheers,


Pol

Lillipets

This is a brilliant piece of research! You have done many of us a BIG favor. Can't wait to hear about it once you're back.

spassvogel

"I'd rather let the encounter with the animal sink in."

PP - absolutely great attitude!

My hubs is a very serious wildlife photographer and I see what it does to the experience.
Sometimes it's so sad that he cannot enjoy an opportunity without having that lens in front of his face.

It's a totally different experience watching thru a lens or being able to absorb the events how they unfold.

Seeing it your way does not necessarily lead to any disappoinment!

You sure will have a great safari!

When it comes to EP and it's rather small concession: A friend of ours spent 2 weeks there in Sep 2008; they had a tight budget and could'n afford a SUV which means between 250 and 300ZAR for every empty seat per game drive or day - I am not so certain on that one. They were thrilled with the leopard sightings despite they are experienced safaristi and also keen on photography!
And they also made good photos.
Well, they did not have to share the vehicle with loads of folks each and every day there. Luck of the draw!

You will have a great time!

Enjoy whatever comes along!

SV

pixelpower

@Lillipets & SV: thanks!

@Treepol;

200 books?? Wow!

I keep a list as well. Not that I'm a keeper of lists, but in this case it's the only way to remember what you have have read and own, what you have read but do not own (borrowed, or from library, etc), and what is still on your list.

A quick calculation; I've got 81 nature-related books in my library (most of them are also Africa-related). Some of them are photo books, of course.

And I've got another 39 on my wish list.

I'd be very glad if you could share your list. I'll send you mine in return. You can always reach me at: pixelpower at telenet dot be. But I'm even more curious to know what your most treasured and most enjoyed books are.

To answer your question about transfers:
- The transfer from the airport to Africa On Foot and from Africa On Foot to Shindzela is included in the AOF price.
- Shinzela will take us to EP. That costs R1760 for the two of us.
- From EP to Pungwe and later on from Pungwe to Kruger airport is done by a company called Eastsaf.co.za and costs about R3000 for the two of us. (the airport is a rather far drive)

Ciao,

J.

spassvogel

J
Pleasure!

Go to www.exclusivebooks.com and order in advance to be delivered to one venue in SA or visit in JNB or OR TAMBO.

Happy reading!

SV

pixelpower

Thanks.

I use either amazon.co.uk (never the .com as then we get an extra tax bill from customs department. I'm in Belgium EU, by the way). Or I use Kalahari.net.