If you are a fan of African safaris and spotted cats, you may want to visit Brazil
Sep 17th, 2007, 08:05 AM
#21
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AWESOME Lynn!! Amazing pictures of an incredible area. Once again my theory for optimal predator viewing proves correct -- simply travel where and when Lynn goes.
The Pantanal certainly delivered on its reputation as the premiere place to see jaguars as well as having the largest, those are some big cats that must have been approaching lioness size. A look at the heads shows why they have the strongest bite in the cat family. I'm happy to see that jaguar #1 with the missing canine is so fit, it must have adapted to utilizing the good side for killing larger prey.
Capybara, giant river otter, caiman, peccaries, spoonbills, etc. true wildlife paradise that you captured brilliantly on camera. Any tapirs or giant anteaters on this visit? Do you know if they ever see ocelots or margay cats?
I will definitely be following your report and pursue a similar experience when I can!
The Pantanal certainly delivered on its reputation as the premiere place to see jaguars as well as having the largest, those are some big cats that must have been approaching lioness size. A look at the heads shows why they have the strongest bite in the cat family. I'm happy to see that jaguar #1 with the missing canine is so fit, it must have adapted to utilizing the good side for killing larger prey.
Capybara, giant river otter, caiman, peccaries, spoonbills, etc. true wildlife paradise that you captured brilliantly on camera. Any tapirs or giant anteaters on this visit? Do you know if they ever see ocelots or margay cats?
I will definitely be following your report and pursue a similar experience when I can!
Sep 17th, 2007, 09:51 AM
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Lynn- Outstanding!!!!
To float along the river and see those magnificent jaguars must have been incredible.
The bird shots really are truly uniqe. Your shots of the chestunt eared aracari, toucan and jabaru were striking! Felt like I was viewing a children's story book that came alive!
To float along the river and see those magnificent jaguars must have been incredible.
The bird shots really are truly uniqe. Your shots of the chestunt eared aracari, toucan and jabaru were striking! Felt like I was viewing a children's story book that came alive!
Sep 17th, 2007, 10:16 AM
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Lynn, now I have to believe in the jaguars! BUT, there is a possibility that you took a leopard with you from South Africa and forced the poor animal to attend a gym before taking him to Brazil and throwing him into the river. And I thought you were one of the more civilized Fodorites!
The capybaras aren’t topis, more like huge guinea pigs, but I like their babies anyway. What sounds do they make? I loved the caiman babies as well, and the baited maned wolves and all the parrots and other birds and all the weird monkeys.
The capybaras aren’t topis, more like huge guinea pigs, but I like their babies anyway. What sounds do they make? I loved the caiman babies as well, and the baited maned wolves and all the parrots and other birds and all the weird monkeys.
Sep 17th, 2007, 08:02 PM
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Rizzuto,
The caiman are just a little smaller than alligators on average. But there were some real big ones that rivaled crocs.
Lynda,
The only black jaguar I saw was at the Belize Zoo and it was mating with a spotted one. Jaguars are much bigger than leopards and stockier. Not as graceful as leopards. In fact, when I saw the first one, my initial thought was “tiger.” That’s how massive the head was. Another lady in the boat thought the same thing. The spots of a jaguar have a flowery rosette pattern and then have a spot within the rosette. I know how the destinations stack up. How can we get to them all?
Predator,
Any tapirs?—Yes 2 not far apart. Probably a mother and subadult son. We saw them on the second night drive of one of the evenings. Sometimes we went for two night drives.
Or giant anteaters on this visit?--The back end of one. The front end was in the forest. But we watched a little anteater for quite awhile one night. There is a place not that far from Caratinga where you can see Giant Anteaters easily. I am thinking of going there next time. Next time being about 4-5 years from now.
Do you know if they ever see ocelots or margay cats?--We saw 2 ocelots. One the first night, just before arriving at our first destination, Pousada Rio Clara, and one in the late afternoon in the same region darting across the road.
Margay are very rare. No trace, not even footprints. But I did see puma footprints in Chapadas.
No photos of any of the animals you asked about.
GreenDrake,
Thanks, those were some good bird shots, but there were many more bird photography opportunities if you were really committed. The first time is a little overwhelming and for me the photography suffers.
Imelda,
I think the whole Southern Atlantic Forest, as well as the Pantanal is malaria free, at least in the dry season. I checked with my International clinic and that’s what they said too. I did read a few reports online that cautiously suggested protection in the Pantanal even though there has been no malaria for many years. Since I have all the shots up to date, I am not sure what ones are needed for the Pantanal or Brazil.
Nyamera,
I did not hear sounds from the capybaras. That's a good question. The really weird monkeys were the muriquis, the largest primate in South America. They all have pot bellies. They were too far away and obscured for photos. There was no feline abuse on my part whatsoever. Now quit starting rumors.
Dennis,
I’ll have to check my book for the frog. The maned wolf was CLOSE. The closest was probably 6 feet, maybe less. Most of the time it was more like 10-15 feet. I still want to see all the animals I’ve already seen again! What a curse. In June I do a houseboat trip for 4 nights in Katmai to see the Alaska Brown Bears. I just bought my waders because we’ll trudge through the water for better views. I’ve been to Katmai before, but not in a houseboat. Then I’ll do some Great White Shark trips with the Fallows in Simonstown and see the penguins and baboons and spend 2 nights in S. Luangwa and 5 in N. Luangwa after that. I may also go back to an amazing place in Orr, Minnesota where you can get great views of black bears at the Vince Schute (sp?) Black Bear Sanctuary. I’ve been there before and it is right up there with any wildlife experience anywhere.
It appears there may be an Africa reunion in the Pantanal in 2010! Now that would be different.
Editor Katie,
Thanks! I’ll have more specifics later.
The caiman are just a little smaller than alligators on average. But there were some real big ones that rivaled crocs.
Lynda,
The only black jaguar I saw was at the Belize Zoo and it was mating with a spotted one. Jaguars are much bigger than leopards and stockier. Not as graceful as leopards. In fact, when I saw the first one, my initial thought was “tiger.” That’s how massive the head was. Another lady in the boat thought the same thing. The spots of a jaguar have a flowery rosette pattern and then have a spot within the rosette. I know how the destinations stack up. How can we get to them all?
Predator,
Any tapirs?—Yes 2 not far apart. Probably a mother and subadult son. We saw them on the second night drive of one of the evenings. Sometimes we went for two night drives.
Or giant anteaters on this visit?--The back end of one. The front end was in the forest. But we watched a little anteater for quite awhile one night. There is a place not that far from Caratinga where you can see Giant Anteaters easily. I am thinking of going there next time. Next time being about 4-5 years from now.
Do you know if they ever see ocelots or margay cats?--We saw 2 ocelots. One the first night, just before arriving at our first destination, Pousada Rio Clara, and one in the late afternoon in the same region darting across the road.
Margay are very rare. No trace, not even footprints. But I did see puma footprints in Chapadas.
No photos of any of the animals you asked about.
GreenDrake,
Thanks, those were some good bird shots, but there were many more bird photography opportunities if you were really committed. The first time is a little overwhelming and for me the photography suffers.
Imelda,
I think the whole Southern Atlantic Forest, as well as the Pantanal is malaria free, at least in the dry season. I checked with my International clinic and that’s what they said too. I did read a few reports online that cautiously suggested protection in the Pantanal even though there has been no malaria for many years. Since I have all the shots up to date, I am not sure what ones are needed for the Pantanal or Brazil.
Nyamera,
I did not hear sounds from the capybaras. That's a good question. The really weird monkeys were the muriquis, the largest primate in South America. They all have pot bellies. They were too far away and obscured for photos. There was no feline abuse on my part whatsoever. Now quit starting rumors.
Dennis,
I’ll have to check my book for the frog. The maned wolf was CLOSE. The closest was probably 6 feet, maybe less. Most of the time it was more like 10-15 feet. I still want to see all the animals I’ve already seen again! What a curse. In June I do a houseboat trip for 4 nights in Katmai to see the Alaska Brown Bears. I just bought my waders because we’ll trudge through the water for better views. I’ve been to Katmai before, but not in a houseboat. Then I’ll do some Great White Shark trips with the Fallows in Simonstown and see the penguins and baboons and spend 2 nights in S. Luangwa and 5 in N. Luangwa after that. I may also go back to an amazing place in Orr, Minnesota where you can get great views of black bears at the Vince Schute (sp?) Black Bear Sanctuary. I’ve been there before and it is right up there with any wildlife experience anywhere.
It appears there may be an Africa reunion in the Pantanal in 2010! Now that would be different.
Editor Katie,
Thanks! I’ll have more specifics later.
Sep 17th, 2007, 08:43 PM
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Lynn: thanks for the answers, so glad you saw ocelots, tapirs, and anteaters! It's good to see somethings that you can't photograph, it's a great reminder that it really is the wild and not a zoo -- 2 drives a night at times, this is definitely my kind of place.
6 feet from the maned wolves, I'm sure that distinctive odor is still burned into your mind.
6 feet from the maned wolves, I'm sure that distinctive odor is still burned into your mind.
Sep 18th, 2007, 01:41 AM
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Lynn,
Thanks for that - I'm in full speed 'researching' brazil, Paraguay now!!! One last question about malaria ( I know, I'm flogging that horse - sorry!) - did you not have to take malaria meds for your entire trip??? The other vaccines I don't need to worry about as I'm fully up to date ...BUT .... if malaria isn't an issue at all .... well.... there's a chance we 'might' just have a chance at trecking those jaguars.
Thanks again and can't wait to read that report!
Imelda
Thanks for that - I'm in full speed 'researching' brazil, Paraguay now!!! One last question about malaria ( I know, I'm flogging that horse - sorry!) - did you not have to take malaria meds for your entire trip??? The other vaccines I don't need to worry about as I'm fully up to date ...BUT .... if malaria isn't an issue at all .... well.... there's a chance we 'might' just have a chance at trecking those jaguars.
Thanks again and can't wait to read that report!
Imelda
Sep 18th, 2007, 07:28 AM
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Wowwee! What wonderful photos, esp. of the jags. I can't believe you saw so many!
And your photos were only a small subset of the wildlife you saw?! Incredible!
It must have been a wonderful time. I wish I could have gone and now it makes me want to go even more!
How many folks ended up going? And how was the overall trip with Focus Tours?
And your photos were only a small subset of the wildlife you saw?! Incredible!
It must have been a wonderful time. I wish I could have gone and now it makes me want to go even more!
How many folks ended up going? And how was the overall trip with Focus Tours?
Sep 18th, 2007, 11:16 AM
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Lynn - Super pictures! Thanks for posting. 
I've seen Jaguar calls but never was with someone who was sure how to make the correct sounds. Nothing I our my companions did with the calls sounded much like a Jaguar. From your description it sounds like maybe our attempts were not too far off!
Thanks again!
I've seen Jaguar calls but never was with someone who was sure how to make the correct sounds. Nothing I our my companions did with the calls sounded much like a Jaguar. From your description it sounds like maybe our attempts were not too far off!
Thanks again!
Sep 19th, 2007, 08:00 AM
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I am late to the party, but LOVE your pictures Lynn!
I have always loved jaguars for their power and versatilty, great hunters, swimmers & tree climbers. I named my company Jaguar Films because of that.
Like everyone else, I am wondering when I can go
I have always loved jaguars for their power and versatilty, great hunters, swimmers & tree climbers. I named my company Jaguar Films because of that.
Like everyone else, I am wondering when I can go
Sep 19th, 2007, 08:39 AM
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Just finished going through your amazing photos. I'm eagerly awaiting your report so I can follow along and look again at the pictures.
The jaguars are wonderful but the birds and smaller animals almost steal the show. Especially loved the Chestnut eared Aracari, the coatis, and the marmosets.
CW
The jaguars are wonderful but the birds and smaller animals almost steal the show. Especially loved the Chestnut eared Aracari, the coatis, and the marmosets.
CW
Sep 19th, 2007, 06:28 PM
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MomLiz,
They are indeed the big kahunas of the rodent world, hence my fascination with them.
Predator,
I should have inhaled! I did not smell a distinctive odor or anything. Oh no, I missed something! It was cold and the wolves were well groomed and there were only 2 of them together at the most, usually one. Maybe that’s why I did not detect a scent.
Divewop,
While the jaguar photos captured what I saw really well, the rest of the photos are just not representative of the volume and the variety out there in the Northern Pantanal. All the more reason to go have a look see for yourselves. When I look at my Africa photos, I usually feel they cover what I saw, even if the photos are of less than excellent quality. That is not the case with Brazil which has the more elusive species, the birds, the nocturnal animals, etc.
How many went on the trip? A total of 3 women for 2/3 of the trip, with 2 joining me at any one time. The other 1/3 of the trip was just me.
Focus—I would like to give them a sound recommendation so I am waiting until all the remaining transactions regarding the trip are complete before getting to the agent part of my report. Everything on the ground in Brazil was super.
Wayne, we just learned a very interesting tidbit about your professional life!
They are indeed the big kahunas of the rodent world, hence my fascination with them.
Predator,
I should have inhaled! I did not smell a distinctive odor or anything. Oh no, I missed something! It was cold and the wolves were well groomed and there were only 2 of them together at the most, usually one. Maybe that’s why I did not detect a scent.
Divewop,
While the jaguar photos captured what I saw really well, the rest of the photos are just not representative of the volume and the variety out there in the Northern Pantanal. All the more reason to go have a look see for yourselves. When I look at my Africa photos, I usually feel they cover what I saw, even if the photos are of less than excellent quality. That is not the case with Brazil which has the more elusive species, the birds, the nocturnal animals, etc.
How many went on the trip? A total of 3 women for 2/3 of the trip, with 2 joining me at any one time. The other 1/3 of the trip was just me.
Focus—I would like to give them a sound recommendation so I am waiting until all the remaining transactions regarding the trip are complete before getting to the agent part of my report. Everything on the ground in Brazil was super.
Wayne, we just learned a very interesting tidbit about your professional life!
Sep 19th, 2007, 07:12 PM
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For the report, I'll do the itinerary, a narration of the trip with wildlife sightings, then agent info at the end. I'll put it here in addition to the Latin America Forum so you do not need to click the link to go over there.
Itinerary
Day 1 Aug 3
Fly O’Hare to Sao Paulo, Guarulhos Aiport on United
Day 2 Aug 4
Arrive Sao Paulo and take shuttle to Melia Comfort Hotel, arriving around noon.
Day 3 Aug 5
Morning flight from Sao Paulo to Belo Horizonte and drive about 2½ hours to the Seminary, lunch en route, arriving late afternoon. Dinner. Night with wolves. Sleep in room at Seminary—small, basic, comfortable, a little cold, good bathroom.. Lovely and interesting facility in beautiful setting.
Day 4 Aug 6
Bird watch from 6:30 to 7:30 am, breakfast, bird watch and walk on trails or road 3 hours until lunch, bird watch and walk on trails or road another 2-3 hours in afternoon. Dinner. Night with wolves. Sleep in room at Seminary.
Day 5 Aug 7 repeat of Day 4
Day 6 Aug 8
Bird watch from 6:30 to 7:30 am, breakfast, bird watch and walk on trails or road until about 9:00 am. Drive 5 hours to Caratinga, lunch enroute. Stop about 45 minutes at a friend of the travel agent who has bird feeders and puts out fruit for marmosets. Bird and marmoset watch at their home. Dinner and overnight at Vind’s Hotel--very nice city hotel.
Day 7 Aug 9
Depart 6:00 am for 40 minute drive to Caratinga Research Station. Spend the day bird watching and looking for monkeys. Lunch fixings brought and stored in visitor fridge. Dinner and overnight at Vind’s Hotel.
Day 8 Aug 10
Depart 6:00 am for 40 minute drive to Caratinga Research Station. Spend the morning bird watching, looking for monkeys. Lunch fixings brought and stored in visitor fridge. At midday head to Mercure Hotel near the Belo Horizonte Airport—modern, nice city hotel.
Note: I changed some flights to avoid Congonhas aiport and therefore overnighted near the Belo Horizonte airport. The normal routing is to spend the whole Day 8 at Caratinga and overnight about 2 hours away from the airport in the city of Rio Casca.
Day 9 Aug 11
Early morning flight from Belo to Cuiaba via Brasilia.
Note: The normal routing is to drive a couple of hours to the Belo Horizonte airport from Rio Casca and take a later flight to Cuiaba via Sao Paulo.
From the Cuiaba airport, drive on a paved road in an air-conditioned van about 2 ½ hours to Pocone, arriving early evening Then switch to the safari vehicle and head toward the Pantanal on road that changes to unpaved. Drive about 2 hours into the Pantanal with spotlight, looking for animals. Overnight Pousada Rio Clara—small room, basic, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. Beautiful outdoor surroundings. Pousada Rio Clara is approx 45 km south of Pocone.
Day 10 Aug 12
Morning walk starting 6:30 am, then breakfast, then boat ride on Pixiam River. Lunch, rest, depart in the afternoon for the Jaguar Ecological Reserve and Jaguar Lodge. Game drive while the light lasts, spotlight at night, arriving about 3 hours later. Dinner. Overnight Jaguar Lodge—small room, basic, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. On the grounds is a spotlighted area where food scraps are placed that attract crab eating foxes during the night. Tegu lizards dine in the area during the day. Jaguar Lodge is approx 110 km south of Pocone.
Day 11 Aug 13
Morning walk starting at 6:30 am, breakfast and another walk lasting to 11 am, lunch, rest, afternoon game drive that continued into a night drive. Dinner, another night drive. Overnight Jaguar Lodge.
Day 12 Aug 14
Morning departure for a game drive, south, then turned around and headed north past Jaguar Lodge to Mato Grosso Best Western Hotel. Lunch and rest, then afternoon game drive that continued into a night drive. Dinner, another night drive. Overnight Mato Grosso Hotel—small room, basic, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. Beautiful outdoor surroundings and very nice facilities. Mato Grosso Hotel is approx 65 km south of Pocone.
Day 13 Aug 15
Morning walk starting 6:30 am, then breakfast, then boat ride on Pixiam River. Lunch, rest, depart in the afternoon for Pousada Alegro on game drive that continued into a night drive. Overnight Pousada Alegro-- small, extremely basic, rooms had previously been used for ranch hands, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. Beautiful outdoor surroundings, an operating ranch. Pousada Alegro is approx. 35 km south of Pocone.
Note: The original itinerary did not have the Mato Grosso Hotel or Pousda Alegro. Instead the last 2 nights on the land portion of the Pantanal were at Fazenda Curicaca, a Bare-faced Curassow Reserve. The accommodation was described as an Africa style lodge and was just a couple miles north of Pousada Alegro. Because Fazenda Curicaca was being renovated, the change in accommodations was made. As I consider a possible return trip, I cannot imagine eliminating Pousada Alegro because of good animal viewing and the working ranch atmosphere. The fig tree in front of the Mato Grosso had outstanding birding, plus offered a chance to see a different part of the Pixiam River than the boat ride from the Pousada Rio Clara. I’d want to include those two accommodations along WITH Fazenda Curicaca if I went back.
Day 14 Aug 16
Morning walk starting 6:30 am, then breakfast, then another walk until about 9:30. Game drive in safari vehicle of about 2 hours out of Pantanal to Pocone. Air conditioned van to Carceres, about 2 ½ hours. Immediately board boat for 2 hour ride on the Paraguay River to Baiazinha Hotel (fishing lodge)—billed as the nicest hotel in the Pantanal and deserving of title. Medium sized, simple and nicely finished rooms with TV, good bathroom, A/Cs. Excellent facilities, right on the river.
Day 15 Aug 17
Morning walk at 7:00 am, then breakfast, then boat outing to a ranch with Hyacinth Macaws. Lunch, rest, afternoon boat ride.
Day 16 Aug 18
5:45 am departure for Taima Ecological Station which encompasses 35,000 acres. Day is spent in search of jaguars, returning before night (6 pm)
Day 17 Aug 19 Repeat of Day 16
Day 18 Aug 20
The itinerary I received stated we would go further south beyond Taima in search of jaguars. Since we had had such great jaguar success already, we gambled on seeing a mother and cub in an area closer to home. Despite great effort on the part of the guide and captain, even pulling our boat over sandbars in piranha infested waters, we were not successful. We also spent more time just looking at the caiman, capybaras, birds, etc.
Day 19 Aug 21
Morning walk starting at 6:30 am, then breakfast and boat transfer, about 2 hours back down the Paraguay River. Board an air conditioned van in Carceres and proceed to Cuiaba and on to Chapada dos Guimaraes. Late afternoon views of the sun on the red cliffs and mountains. Visit to the geocenter of South America. Overnight at Solar dos Inglos—charming and exquisite inn with beautifully decorated rooms, and of course a good bathroom, don’t remember if there was A/C. Very attractive garden and outdoor sitting, dining areas. The British owner is a former jaguar and all-around big game hunter who told Focus Tours about the Paraguay River. He is most interested in the sightings on the Paraguay River.
Day 20 Aug 22
Morning birding along a dirt road for unique species. Visit to cliffs where red and green macaws nest. Visit to the national park for views of a waterfall, valley, cliffs and to hike on trails. Lunch and hour and a half drive to airport for flight back to Sao Paulo. Overnight Melia Comfort.
Day 21 Aug 23
Day at hotel waiting for evening flight that departed Guarulhos Airport in Sao Paulo
Note: I used the day to catch up on work emails. I also went in the pool (too shallow for swimming), which was nice and warm. The flights did not work for an evening departure one day earlier, but this last day was not the best use of time.
Day 22 Aug 23
Arrive early in O’Hare
I set this tour up as a group trip about a year and a half in advance so that the participation of others would defray my costs. The end result was I was alone for Caraca, Caratinga, and Chapada dos Guimaraes. Donna and Kimberly were with me for the land portion of the Pantanal. Donna continued on to the River portion of the Pantanal and Kimberly left but Rikki joined. Focus Tours arranges private trips or a modular plan like I did, where others can join. If I were to do it again, I would limit the group to four participants. We were never more than three and I was fortunate to have such an enjoyable group of travel companions.
Itinerary
Day 1 Aug 3
Fly O’Hare to Sao Paulo, Guarulhos Aiport on United
Day 2 Aug 4
Arrive Sao Paulo and take shuttle to Melia Comfort Hotel, arriving around noon.
Day 3 Aug 5
Morning flight from Sao Paulo to Belo Horizonte and drive about 2½ hours to the Seminary, lunch en route, arriving late afternoon. Dinner. Night with wolves. Sleep in room at Seminary—small, basic, comfortable, a little cold, good bathroom.. Lovely and interesting facility in beautiful setting.
Day 4 Aug 6
Bird watch from 6:30 to 7:30 am, breakfast, bird watch and walk on trails or road 3 hours until lunch, bird watch and walk on trails or road another 2-3 hours in afternoon. Dinner. Night with wolves. Sleep in room at Seminary.
Day 5 Aug 7 repeat of Day 4
Day 6 Aug 8
Bird watch from 6:30 to 7:30 am, breakfast, bird watch and walk on trails or road until about 9:00 am. Drive 5 hours to Caratinga, lunch enroute. Stop about 45 minutes at a friend of the travel agent who has bird feeders and puts out fruit for marmosets. Bird and marmoset watch at their home. Dinner and overnight at Vind’s Hotel--very nice city hotel.
Day 7 Aug 9
Depart 6:00 am for 40 minute drive to Caratinga Research Station. Spend the day bird watching and looking for monkeys. Lunch fixings brought and stored in visitor fridge. Dinner and overnight at Vind’s Hotel.
Day 8 Aug 10
Depart 6:00 am for 40 minute drive to Caratinga Research Station. Spend the morning bird watching, looking for monkeys. Lunch fixings brought and stored in visitor fridge. At midday head to Mercure Hotel near the Belo Horizonte Airport—modern, nice city hotel.
Note: I changed some flights to avoid Congonhas aiport and therefore overnighted near the Belo Horizonte airport. The normal routing is to spend the whole Day 8 at Caratinga and overnight about 2 hours away from the airport in the city of Rio Casca.
Day 9 Aug 11
Early morning flight from Belo to Cuiaba via Brasilia.
Note: The normal routing is to drive a couple of hours to the Belo Horizonte airport from Rio Casca and take a later flight to Cuiaba via Sao Paulo.
From the Cuiaba airport, drive on a paved road in an air-conditioned van about 2 ½ hours to Pocone, arriving early evening Then switch to the safari vehicle and head toward the Pantanal on road that changes to unpaved. Drive about 2 hours into the Pantanal with spotlight, looking for animals. Overnight Pousada Rio Clara—small room, basic, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. Beautiful outdoor surroundings. Pousada Rio Clara is approx 45 km south of Pocone.
Day 10 Aug 12
Morning walk starting 6:30 am, then breakfast, then boat ride on Pixiam River. Lunch, rest, depart in the afternoon for the Jaguar Ecological Reserve and Jaguar Lodge. Game drive while the light lasts, spotlight at night, arriving about 3 hours later. Dinner. Overnight Jaguar Lodge—small room, basic, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. On the grounds is a spotlighted area where food scraps are placed that attract crab eating foxes during the night. Tegu lizards dine in the area during the day. Jaguar Lodge is approx 110 km south of Pocone.
Day 11 Aug 13
Morning walk starting at 6:30 am, breakfast and another walk lasting to 11 am, lunch, rest, afternoon game drive that continued into a night drive. Dinner, another night drive. Overnight Jaguar Lodge.
Day 12 Aug 14
Morning departure for a game drive, south, then turned around and headed north past Jaguar Lodge to Mato Grosso Best Western Hotel. Lunch and rest, then afternoon game drive that continued into a night drive. Dinner, another night drive. Overnight Mato Grosso Hotel—small room, basic, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. Beautiful outdoor surroundings and very nice facilities. Mato Grosso Hotel is approx 65 km south of Pocone.
Day 13 Aug 15
Morning walk starting 6:30 am, then breakfast, then boat ride on Pixiam River. Lunch, rest, depart in the afternoon for Pousada Alegro on game drive that continued into a night drive. Overnight Pousada Alegro-- small, extremely basic, rooms had previously been used for ranch hands, comfortable, good bathroom, A/C. Beautiful outdoor surroundings, an operating ranch. Pousada Alegro is approx. 35 km south of Pocone.
Note: The original itinerary did not have the Mato Grosso Hotel or Pousda Alegro. Instead the last 2 nights on the land portion of the Pantanal were at Fazenda Curicaca, a Bare-faced Curassow Reserve. The accommodation was described as an Africa style lodge and was just a couple miles north of Pousada Alegro. Because Fazenda Curicaca was being renovated, the change in accommodations was made. As I consider a possible return trip, I cannot imagine eliminating Pousada Alegro because of good animal viewing and the working ranch atmosphere. The fig tree in front of the Mato Grosso had outstanding birding, plus offered a chance to see a different part of the Pixiam River than the boat ride from the Pousada Rio Clara. I’d want to include those two accommodations along WITH Fazenda Curicaca if I went back.
Day 14 Aug 16
Morning walk starting 6:30 am, then breakfast, then another walk until about 9:30. Game drive in safari vehicle of about 2 hours out of Pantanal to Pocone. Air conditioned van to Carceres, about 2 ½ hours. Immediately board boat for 2 hour ride on the Paraguay River to Baiazinha Hotel (fishing lodge)—billed as the nicest hotel in the Pantanal and deserving of title. Medium sized, simple and nicely finished rooms with TV, good bathroom, A/Cs. Excellent facilities, right on the river.
Day 15 Aug 17
Morning walk at 7:00 am, then breakfast, then boat outing to a ranch with Hyacinth Macaws. Lunch, rest, afternoon boat ride.
Day 16 Aug 18
5:45 am departure for Taima Ecological Station which encompasses 35,000 acres. Day is spent in search of jaguars, returning before night (6 pm)
Day 17 Aug 19 Repeat of Day 16
Day 18 Aug 20
The itinerary I received stated we would go further south beyond Taima in search of jaguars. Since we had had such great jaguar success already, we gambled on seeing a mother and cub in an area closer to home. Despite great effort on the part of the guide and captain, even pulling our boat over sandbars in piranha infested waters, we were not successful. We also spent more time just looking at the caiman, capybaras, birds, etc.
Day 19 Aug 21
Morning walk starting at 6:30 am, then breakfast and boat transfer, about 2 hours back down the Paraguay River. Board an air conditioned van in Carceres and proceed to Cuiaba and on to Chapada dos Guimaraes. Late afternoon views of the sun on the red cliffs and mountains. Visit to the geocenter of South America. Overnight at Solar dos Inglos—charming and exquisite inn with beautifully decorated rooms, and of course a good bathroom, don’t remember if there was A/C. Very attractive garden and outdoor sitting, dining areas. The British owner is a former jaguar and all-around big game hunter who told Focus Tours about the Paraguay River. He is most interested in the sightings on the Paraguay River.
Day 20 Aug 22
Morning birding along a dirt road for unique species. Visit to cliffs where red and green macaws nest. Visit to the national park for views of a waterfall, valley, cliffs and to hike on trails. Lunch and hour and a half drive to airport for flight back to Sao Paulo. Overnight Melia Comfort.
Day 21 Aug 23
Day at hotel waiting for evening flight that departed Guarulhos Airport in Sao Paulo
Note: I used the day to catch up on work emails. I also went in the pool (too shallow for swimming), which was nice and warm. The flights did not work for an evening departure one day earlier, but this last day was not the best use of time.
Day 22 Aug 23
Arrive early in O’Hare
I set this tour up as a group trip about a year and a half in advance so that the participation of others would defray my costs. The end result was I was alone for Caraca, Caratinga, and Chapada dos Guimaraes. Donna and Kimberly were with me for the land portion of the Pantanal. Donna continued on to the River portion of the Pantanal and Kimberly left but Rikki joined. Focus Tours arranges private trips or a modular plan like I did, where others can join. If I were to do it again, I would limit the group to four participants. We were never more than three and I was fortunate to have such an enjoyable group of travel companions.
