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i want to see the gorillas on my 50th birthday

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i want to see the gorillas on my 50th birthday

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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 12:27 PM
  #41  
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loru,
thank you for sharing your album.
your photographs are just amazing. makes me want to be there right now!!!!!!!

did you go on more than one trek?
if my experience is anywhere close to yours, i would die happy.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 12:36 PM
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leely,
i have been thinking a lot about kinigi and keep going back and forth.

my financial situation has changed dramatically in the past year so as much as i think i can handle the very basics, i wonder if i should start with a mid range place like the mountain gorilla view.
i would like to think that the high of being there and seeing the gorillas would overcome anything else.

this is also the first time i am planning a trip on my own so i am constantly second guessing myself.
i'm sorry i sound so pathetic, but i guess it is a part of my self discovery process.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 02:46 PM
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I loved Kinigi and do not dispute Lynn's descriptions but wanted to give you some context.

There were times I wished that as a solo traveler I had chosen something a teeny bit more upscale because I had a lot of down time in the afternoons, and while the grounds and restaurant are lovely, my room was a bit on the grim side. If I had been traveling with a boyfriend or friend, I don't think that would have fazed me at all.

On the other hand, one morning I was at the park HQ right before a trek. I wanted to buy a hat. Reached into my backpack: no wallet! Because the guesthouse is so close to Park HQ, I had time to rush back to my room, where I found the wallet sitting on the floor next to my bed.

And on the other, other hand (my third hand), there is something about Kinigi that felt very Rwandan that I enjoyed tremendously.

I don't think this place is "basic" for Rwanda, just wanted to let you know so you could calibrate your expectations.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Price the whole thing with KGH and MGV, then decide. The beauty of the place is definitely the grounds, the people, the location. The room itself (at least #9) is fine, not icky, but not a place you'd choose to lounge around.

"the high of being there and seeing the gorillas would overcome anything else." Right!

I stayed there for the financial reasons you describe. Especially for numerous nights, the difference in total cost between Kinigi and the luxurious places where you would like to lounge around was very significant to me.

Leely, you must have had a moment of terror when your wallet was missing! I bet you covered the ground from the ranger station to the guesthouse in record time and could have outrun the silverback.

To lessen your time sitting in the room at Kinigi, try this village:

<i>Iby’Iwacu Cultural Village:
http://www.yoursafeplanet.co.uk/dyna...7&templateId=1
http://www.rwandaecotours.com/ibyi.html

I asked about doing something cultural while in Kinigi and Kirenga suggested Iby’Iwacu. This project offers an opportunity to local people who may not directly benefit from Volcanoes National Park and who may have been involved in poaching. It also allows young Rwandans a way to learn about their own culture in the process of sharing it with visitors.

A guide for the village escorted me to various stations to meet a traditional healer and learn about his herbs, to see how millet was ground and give it a go, to watch a bow and arrow demo and take a shot, and to visit the king’s palace. It was under construction by numerous skilled workmen but some of the interior rooms had been completed and I was given a tour and explanation of those.

There were items for sale spread out on a blanket but no vendors were present and no need for bargaining. I bought a basket.

The gentleman who oversaw the the bow and arrow shooting was extremely enthused about his demonstration as well as the upcoming drumming and dancing. He added his own animated narration to the explanations of the village guide. Later he got to play the part of the gorilla in the final interpretive dance. It was worth going to the village just to give him the opportunity to participate in the activities and have such a good time.

When I got home and reviewed the video Kirenga had shot and narrated of some of the events at the village, I learned this enthusiastic archer and gorilla portrayer used to be one of the most successful poachers in the area.

The staged activities and demos were interesting, but what I found most fascinating was the traditional drumming and dancing. The participants dressed in traditional costumes, like those I had seen at the National Museum, which included flowing straw lion manes of sisal. The performers were very talented and put tremendous energy into their drumming and dancing. Some of the bystanders even joined in and then I was summoned to participate as well. That was fun and completely optional. I got to drum too. They were outstanding performers and it was a privilege to see them.

At the end there was an opportunity for a donation. Later I found out there was a cost to visit, but Kirenga covered that for me because he likes to support this project. I can recommend supporting it too! Bring your dancing shoes or dancing gorilla tracking boots.</i>

There was a nice outdoor area/patio at KGH to eat or sit, so you are not stuck in the room. There were patio chairs around outside too.

Check out what people say about KGH or other places on Trip Advisor. I have no idea what the ratings, but that's a good source for individual properties.

You may be able to do a lunch and couple hour outing at one of the luxury places. I had arranged a post-gorilla lunch and walkabout at Virunga Lodge. It really has grounds extensive enough to walk about and stretch your legs. DEEE-lightful. But I did a 3 week trip with the company that owned it, so they may have been more willing to do something like that. Never hurts to ask though.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 04:31 PM
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Lynn, for some reason they had me walk around Virunga too when we went up to see the lakes one afternoon. The really strange thing when I was up there was that they showed me around the hotel, and I ran into all the other people from my trek that morning. The folks on my golden monkey trek were staying at...the place that's the same group as Governor's, I think, forget the name. And then those on my other gorilla trek were young Europeans, most of whom were staying in Ruhengeri, but two stayed at Kinigi.

In any case, abranz, you are absolutely right that the experience of seeing the gorillas will overcome everything else--not that there's anything to "overcome" about Kinigi. I was fine staying there but I know other people can be a bit more delicate than I. My first afternoon there all my jet lag caught up with me and I was way too tired to go anywhere/do anything.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 04:35 PM
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Another thing, I see you asked about maid service at Kinigi. Yes, maid service every day, and the housecleaning staff is just wonderful! Winnie was my primary maid when I was there.
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Old Jan 14th, 2011, 09:06 AM
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Yes, we did two treks. You have to do two, since you're already there and what's another $500 when you've laid out so much money to get there anyway?!

If you're looking for a mid-range place, Gorilla's Nest was very nice and we liked it very much. It's about 15-20 minutes from the national park headquarters, the food was good, the rooms were very large and nice. We would stay there again. Before we left we had heard some people say they didn't like it but we thought it was great.

Also, I forgot to mention in my other post, R&N were able to get permits when no one else was able to. Not sure if you've got your permits yet.
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Old Jan 18th, 2011, 09:03 AM
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r&n have been fantastic about prompt response and have said they have permits to visit the gorillas on both days.
yippeeee!!

the difference between kinigi and mountain gorillas is about $500.
would you say it is worth it for 4 nights?


i now need to put the kenya part of my trip together - either before or after rwanda ( june 25 to june 29).
it seems to be substantially cheaper to go on safari before going to rwanda.

since windowless had such a great experience with gamewatchers, i e-mailed them a couple of days ago. have yet to hear back.
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Old Jan 19th, 2011, 08:15 AM
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I'd pocket the $500.

To put it in perspective, what sorts of things do you spend $500 on now?

If that's a normal shopping spree with each change of season, then spend it on Mountain Gorillas. If you'd spend that on a weekend excursion without thinking twice, then go for MG. If that's a typical amount you'd spend on a new rug, a decorative vase, a piece of jewelry, or a wall hanging, then go for Mountain Gorilla.

If you count up how many hours you'd have to work to reach $500 and are disheartened, go with Kingi. If you are investing a lot of time and energy to save $10 or $20 per week by using coupons, turning off electrical appliances, or using public transport/a bike, stay at Kinigi. If you never spend $500 at a crack except on health care or a gorilla permit, then go to Kinigi.

If it is substantially less to do your Kenya safari beforehand, then I'd do it then. Also see how the flying logistics between the countries and hotel costs work out with going before and after.
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Old Jan 19th, 2011, 08:27 AM
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"If that's a normal shopping spree with each change of season, then spend it on Mountain Gorillas. If you'd spend that on a weekend excursion without thinking twice, then go for MG. If that's a typical amount you'd spend on a new rug, a decorative vase, a piece of jewelry, or a wall hanging, then go for Mountain Gorilla.

If you count up how many hours you'd have to work to reach $500 and are disheartened, go with Kingi. If you are investing a lot of time and energy to save $10 or $20 per week by using coupons, turning off electrical appliances, or using public transport/a bike, stay at Kinigi. If you never spend $500 at a crack except on health care or a gorilla permit, then go to Kinigi."

atravelynn - great way to put it! Perfectly put into perspective.

abranz - enjoying living vicariously through your planning! Thanks!
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Old Jan 19th, 2011, 05:40 PM
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You're going in June, right? It will be much cheaper to see Kenya first because seasonal rates seem to go up June 15 or end of June. Not a big deal--either order will be great, I am sure.

FYI, I know you're sold on Porini, but just thought I'd mention that I had a great experience as a solo traveler with Kicheche.
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Old Jan 19th, 2011, 08:04 PM
  #52  
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atravelyn,
your examples cracked me up.
you have described some of the before and some of the now aspects of my life so aptly.

leely, it does look like there are substantial savings in doing the safari before june 30th and it does not look like the season or the wildlife in the 2 weeks span vary greatly.
i'm not sold on porini necessarily. the combination of positive trip reports and the specials they are offering made them very appealing esp. since their tented camps were not that much more than staying in a lodge.
however, the lack of response from their operator - gamewatchers is very discouraging. there has been nothing at all to my email of 1-16 and my voice mail of 1-18.
i will check out kicheche. thanks

local, i'm glad you are enjoying my planning.
i am myself getting frustrated with my vacillating. but then again, this is a whole new experience for me.
at least that's my excuse for now!
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Old Jan 20th, 2011, 08:45 AM
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Happy to brighten your day, Abranz.

Here's something that a Rwanda guide told me. He said he guided a wealthy family that intentionally stayed at all inexpensive lodging when they traveled. Their philosophy was, "We have luxury at home, we want something different when we travel."

Luxury is of course relative, and even the low end places for us visitors are often far fancier than what the local people live in. When I've had guides tell me about their childhoods and upbringings I wonder how they can keep from decking the guest that complains about dust on the wash basin or soup that is bland.

Back to Gamewatchers--I cannot tell you how many times I have found those in the tourism business to be incommunicado. What gives? I want to hand them my business and they won't respond. Maybe I am too reliant on email that can have glitches. But when numerous emails aresent over a period of time, one should get through.

Both Kicheche and Porini are high on my list of places to visit. Good luck with one or the other or both Abranz.
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Old Jan 20th, 2011, 08:56 AM
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"Luxury is of course relative, and even the low end places for us visitors are often far fancier than what the local people live in. When I've had guides tell me about their childhoods and upbringings I wonder how they can keep from decking the guest that complains about dust on the wash basin or soup that is bland."

Yes!
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Old Jan 20th, 2011, 10:02 AM
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"Luxury is of course relative, and even the low end places for us visitors are often far fancier than what the local people live in. When I've had guides tell me about their childhoods and upbringings I wonder how they can keep from decking the guest that complains about dust on the wash basin or soup that is bland."

absolutely!!


still waiting to hear back from gamewatchers.........
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Old Jan 20th, 2011, 08:52 PM
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i have given up waiting to hear back from gamewatchers.

i posted my requested itinerary on www.katokenya.org and have promptly received many responses. yaaay

so now i have a few questions....
for the 6 nights that i plan to be on safari, should i split it between 2 or 3 camps?
3 nights in the mara is a given.
for the other 3, should i split between amboseli and samburu or pick just one of them?
if only one of them, which one?

what is your opinion of elephant bedroom camp in samburu and tipilikwani mara camp?
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 02:56 AM
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I'm so sorry to hear that Gamewatchers has failed to reply; I can't understand it. Granted, I don't think I ever tried to contact them directly, but they always answered my questions (via Go2Africa) so quickly. I would have been equally turned off by their lack of responsiveness and I'm sure you'll find wonderful alternatives, but it's unfortunate; they were really good to me.

Having not been to any properties/areas other than the ones I mentioned in my trip report, I'll defer to the other experts here. In my opinion, though, you should split the six nights between just two camps, and I've seen plenty of recommendations for Samburu in this forum. (I really liked Amboseli, but I think a lot of that was because of the people at Porini!)
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 07:35 AM
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<b>Windowless</b>, your comment of contacting a local company THROUGH someone is interesting and rings a bell.

I've had to resort to that strategy as well sometimes. Fortunately, as has been mentioned before, the middleman does not necessarily jack up the cost and sometimes even reduces it.

The other thing is that I had not sent out a flurry of a dozen plus requests for the same itinerary, so that word gets around and the individual companies may feel the odds of ending up with the business are low. In fact these contacts I was trying to make were my one and only.

I know companies like Wilderness in Southern Africa and Origins in East Africa have go-betweens as their business model so I'm not referring to that.

How odd. Who knows?

The last local Kenyan company I went with, Eastern and Southern, was always responsive, so not referring to them.

Back to <b>Abranz...</b>

I'd do either 3 nts Samburu and 3 nts Mara OR 2 nts Samburu and 4 nts Mara. Never been to either camp you mention. Ele Bedroom is on the high end of cost, but offers a more relaxed camp atmosphere than some of the lodges. I've stayed at the lodges for cost reasons. Lots of wildlife/bird activity around Samburu Serena, Samburu Simba, Samburu Lodge.

As to 2 or 3 nts. in Samburu, I'd ask myself where I place elephants on my list of wildlife favs. If eles are #1, then Samburu is one of the best places to spend time with them. If the unique species of antelope, giraffe, and zebra found in Samburu are very important to you, then you may want 3 nts there. If eles are on equal footing with everything else and the unique species are not musts, then 2 nights in Samburu is fine. Most itineraries spend 2 nights in Samburu. On my last trip, I spent 2x the number of nights in the Mara as Samburu. If you check the trip report index and see how many nights people spent in Samburu and look at their photos or written accounts that would help you decide. Can't go wrong with 6 safari nights in those two locations: the #1 and #2 wildlife spots in Kenya.
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Old Jan 25th, 2011, 12:43 PM
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gamewatchers finally called me back on the 21st with profuse apologies. It seemed that my voicemail of the 18th had got lost somewhere in the system.
anyway, we had a nice chat and i explained what i was looking for - kenya and rwanda.
kate was very professional and followed up promptly with an e-mail to the agent in kenya and copy to me.
henrietta, the agent responded within a day clarifying what i was looking for and since then, i have heard nothing.

this is so different to the responses i have been receiving from diedrik and from r&n explorers.
the follow up from both is prompt and covers every question i have asked.
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Old Jan 25th, 2011, 02:06 PM
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i think this is it.
please comment/critique/suggest if i should do anything differently

june 15 fly out of sfo
june 16 arrive nairobi 8:55 p.m
june 17 nairobi - visit sheldrick, giraffe center, karen blixen - hoping to stay at maschula
june 18 fly to porini rhino
june 19-20 porini rhino
june 21 fly to mara
june 22-23 mara
june 24 return to nairobi - overnight

june 25 fly to kigali
june 26 (happy birthday to me! with the gorillas)
june 27 more gorillas
june 28 golden monkeys - drive to gisenyi - overnight
june 29 fly to nairobi - fly to sfo

i am splitting the trip between diedrik (kenya) and r&n explorers (rwanda)

1. i have a list of other hotels mentioned on this forum to check out if maschula is not available.

2. i assume a taxi to and from the airport while arriving and departing should work. yes? no?

3. should i hire a car for the day in nairobi?

thanks again
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