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I dreamed I was in Africa....Csuss Trips Report - Tanzania June/July 2006

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I dreamed I was in Africa....Csuss Trips Report - Tanzania June/July 2006

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Old Jul 19th, 2006, 02:11 PM
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Thanks so much for a great report so far -- can't wait to hear about the rest of your trip!

My husband and I have been debating about whether we should splurge on Oliver's (as opposed to the Tarangire Safari Lodge), and I think you have just helped us decide...
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 01:15 AM
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I could have sworn I'd posted on this thread already - I've certainly been reading it! Just wanted to add another thanks for sharing!
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 07:23 AM
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The private Olivers experience sounds fabulous.
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 08:41 AM
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Yes, what great luck to be the only guests. Wow.
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 09:56 AM
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Hi Carol, I almost forgot to thank you for your great description of West Kilimanjaro! You wrote so well and your experiences there are 100% similar to mine - it is such a great area.

And it's no secret that I love Oliver's too!
Eben
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 10:14 AM
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Marvelous trip report with just enough detail. Thanks. Looking forward to the continuation.
 
Old Jul 20th, 2006, 10:39 AM
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I'm enjoying your report and enjoying. Glad you liked Tanangire, as it's one of our favorites and so often overlooked and under-rated. Don't know if some folks have bad guiding, bad luck or just don't stay long enough.
Look forward to the rest of your well written report.
Sherry
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 10:43 AM
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btw, can you tell that I'm enjoying this report so much that it just needs to be repeated - does the edit feature EVER work when needed
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 01:17 PM
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Eben - wait till you hear what I have to say about Sayari -it was out of this world!

But first...Ngorongoro...

Wednesday June 28 & Thursday June 29
NGORONGORO CRATER

Our "personal jet" arrived in Tarangire right on schedule and it was a short flight to Lake Maynara airport (Jim got to sit in the co-pilots seat this time). Zefa was waiting for us and off we went to Ngorongoro.

All those Baboons at the front gate!!!
The mother carrying a suckling baby under her, the grooming - all that attitude I was in love with this park immediately. And then we get to the top with that stunning view. We really could not visualize the size and grandiosity (is that a word?) before we arrived, and it is awesome. Just think of the enormous power that caused such a huge explosion all those millions of years ago.

We proceded to the Serena - had lunch and headed for the crater floor. What can you say - incredible. Hippo and Ele's, Lions and a Rhino (must be the same one Leely saw - I have the same picture!) The Rhino is so pre-historic you just have to stare at it in wonderment.

We had some really great and fun moments. We were driving along and came upon another Matembezi vehicle stopped in the middle of the road. As we approached they were madly signaling us to come around the other side - and there lazing in the shade of the vehicle were two lioness - very appreciative of the shade the vehicle was providing and clearly not in any hurry to move, or bothered by our approach. After we took about 10,000 photos the other vehicle wanted to get on with their drive, and as they moved away the girls just got up and plopped themselves down next to our truck. So, we took about another 10,000 photos. By this time there was a whole line of vehicles in our wake and as we drove away the girls were headed for the next shady vehicle.

We also saw a pride of lions enjoying a gazelle luncheon. We were kind of far away, but a few minutes after we arrived (along with every other tourist in the crater that morning)the whole family came sauntering in our direction - stopping either right next to where we were parked or going into a drainage pipe right under where we were parked. Must have been mighty crowded down there. The traffic jam this whole thing incited was really obnoxious. I know there is nothing you can do about it, but who are all these people, and how dare they invade my safari space!

We also had a close encounter with a big bull elephant in full musk. he was right at the side of the road and we pulled up next to him. He let us know in no uncertain terms that we were not welcome - ears flapping trunk waving & trumpeting - very cool. This was the only time I felt Zefa (Jim & I as well) was a little concerned, as we high tailed it out of there (Mom - if you are reading this it didn't really happen).

On the second day we stopped for a picnic lunch and watched birds steal other peoples sandwiches - good fun. I was fairly appalled to see that some tour companies made their passengers eat lunch inside the van (we were in a gorgeous spot) because of the bird bandits (they were "allowed out" once they finished).

Speaking of bandits...

THE GREAT VERVET MONKEE SCAM OF 2006:
I admit it - we were scammed. On our second day in the crater, Zefa's stomach was bothering him a bit (probably from the bad food at the Serena), so before we got on the exit road we stopped at the rest stop. While Zefa was "resting" we got out of the truck to get some photos of a really cute vervet monkee chomping on a banana. He was very photogenic and seemed to be posing for us. When we turned around to go back to the vehicle we were just in time to see his two cronies climbing out of our vehicle (through the roof) with OUR apples in their hands laughing all the way back up a tree. It's quite an operation they have going there - I wonder how many bananas they had to trade for the rest stop concession.

By some stroke of luck the logistics for this portion of the trip turned out perfectly. I had originally requested Ngorongoro Serena. Ilan got back to me and said it was booked so he put us in Ngorongoro Farm House (just outside the park). I expressed a keen desire to be able to spend at least one night on the rim so he was able to get us the first night at the Serena. This was perfect for a number of reasons
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 02:42 PM
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I love that Monkey scam! Those creature are so doggoen smart it is scary.

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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 03:14 PM
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OOPS - somehow the rest of my post on Ngorongoro got cut off - and I was on such a roll. I'll complete it tomorrow...
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Old Jul 20th, 2006, 06:26 PM
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This is a great trip report! Thanks for sharing your trip. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos.

Cindy
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Old Jul 21st, 2006, 10:55 AM
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To finish up what I was writing yesterday about Ngorongoro - the logistics worked out really well. We arrived at the park in time for check in and lunch at the Serena, zipped down into the crater for an afternoon drive and then it was not too long of a drive back to the hotel at the end of the day. In the morning we were one of the first in the crater and by 3PM we were ready for a rest so we beat the crowds out of the exit road and were at Ngorongoro Farm House by 4pm in time for Jim to have a swim and I took a tour of the organic farm and coffee processing area. Then it was a quick drive back to Maynara airport the next morning for our flight to the Serengeti. On our way out of the park we made a quick stop at Ngorongoro Crater Lodge - we never made it past the gift shop. I was hoping if we baught something they would let us in to the hotel for a drink - no go. It was a nice gift shop though.

We didn't really care for the Serena - too touristy and we were kind of annnoyed that they would not let Zefa have his meals with us (all the guides were gathered in the lounge to watch the World Cup and they didn't look too interested in the bad food anyway).

One great thing was that Jim surprised me with a massage when we returned from our game drive. What a luxury, especially after I kept banging my head on the roof rim of our land cruiser every time I stood up to take a picture because the brim of my hat was so big it obscured my peripheral vision (this may be more information than you need to know about me, but I am a bit klutzy).

Ngorongoro Farm House is a wonderful alternative to one of the lodges on the crater rim becasue it is so close to the entrance to the park. It is on beautiful garden grounds with a great pool area. We had a huge room, nicely appointed. We even saw a hedgehog scampering around that night.
One of the tour groups that were there had arranged for a local tribal singing/juggling group to perform around the fire before dinner. It was sort of an Afro-hip-hop-Cirque do Soleil type thing (at least it seemed that way after a few drinks). It was alot of fun and they got everyone up to dance at the end. Dinner was a little disappointing after I had seen all the beautiful organic produce that they were growing.

The next morning Zefa said goodbye to us at the airstrip (he was just a fabulous guide with a wonderful personality) as Belgium and our private jet arrived to sweep us away to the Serengeti.

FRIDAY June 30 - Monday July 3
Sayari Camp/ Northern Serengeti

We are met at the airstrip by our guide from Sayari, Njono, and head off for a game drive before lunch.

What can you say about the Serengeti - magnificent,awe inspiring - I don't know, it has all been said before. I can understand how the settlers in the old west felt when they first encountered the prairies or the western plains for the first time. It is just endless sky and grasses. Becasue of the late rains this year we were a bit early for the migration and saw just the beginning - miles of wildebeest in single file heading to the Mara river. But there was plenty of other game to see. On our way to the camp we saw a cheetah as it clibed a tree for a better view of what might be hiding in the surrounding grasses (the next day we watched the same cheetah devour a gazelle). There were ele, giraffe hippo and crocs, monkees, gazelle, impala, jackel and hyeena and vultures. Lion, warthogs, and an owl. I don't think I'd ever seen an owl in the wild before and it was fabulous.

Our second morning in Sayari we drove far away so I could get a glimpse of the migration, which I did. I was a bit dissapointed that we were not right in the middle of it, but all I can do is shake a fist a mother nature for having delayed the rains. We also stopped and watched a herd of elephant for a while. We didn't realize how silently they moved until we turned around at one point and there was a BIG guy in a bush right behind our vehicle - just keeping an eye on us. We still hadn't seen any lion and on our afternoon drive we came up empty as well, so we returned to the camp at the end of our second day feeling a bit dejected. Even Njono felt like he had let us down for not finding them for us. He redeemed himself in a big way however, the following day (our last safari day).
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Old Jul 21st, 2006, 11:08 AM
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csuss, this latest installment is hilarious.

"It was sort of an Afro-hip-hop-Cirque do Soleil type thing (at least it seemed that way after a few drinks)"

Great stuff! Keep it coming. I have friends who are thinking about Sayari. They are must-have-luxury types, so I'm curious to read your thoughts. I think chrisamg loved it.
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Old Jul 21st, 2006, 02:17 PM
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Leely - Sayari is fabulous. You should have seen the look on my face when we arrived and I found the tents had real toilets and sinks. Beautifully appointed tents - very clean. I think I have a photo (to be posted this weekend I hope). Now, as far as your friends are concerned, I always wonder about people going on safari that only want luxury. Do they realize they still have to pee in the bush????

Back to Sayari---This camp would definitly be classified as luxury. It is small - only 8 tents. It used to be mobile, but I believe now it is in a permanent spot. Dining tent is great - individual tables, but Jim made friends with everyone (the Mayor of the camp) so we asked to combine tables and it was no problem. We had bush breakfast on the road every AM, buffet lunch and formal dinner.

Like Olivers (they are both Asilia properties) it is a very high class operation with fantastic service and friendly, knowledgable staff. It is also very remote - way up there by the Mara river close to the Kenyan border. The vehicles were open range rovers (with a high canvas covering for the sun), and we were allowed to drive off road. The ONLY other vehicles you will see are others from Sayari, and there were days when we didn't even see them. When we did come upon a vision however, they radioed each other to let them know. The tse tse flies were a problem in the afternoons - nasty buggers. My wrists and ankels are still itching.

Again, because of the late rains, the game was not as close as I had hoped, but we saw plenty, and at night we fell asleep to the roars of lions.

Apparently the game comes very close to the camp when the herds are going through the area.

The camp has a vibe about it that is so relaxing (the lounge tent has really comfortable couches) and it is so remote you really feel you are on another planet. In fact, I've been describing the safari experience to my friends as being in a parallel universe. Hard to explain except that we were visitors to the animal world, and so much goes on there (life and death and everything else) that happens outside our world, but is no less impressive.

Jim and I have been contemplating the man vs. nature thing and realizing that it is just such thinking that has gotten us into so much trouble. Man and nature are one and we really have to start acknowleding the effect our footprint has on the natural world.

Enough sermonizing - suffice it to say that I would highly recommend Sayari to anyone.

Now, THE BIG FINALE...
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 09:12 AM
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csuss,

Thanks for the info. I think Sayari would be great for them. They know they have to pee in the bush, but I think they'd like a nice comfy lounge tent like the one you've described when they come "home" in the evenings.

Looking forward to the grand finale.
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 09:48 AM
  #37  
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csus:
I am really enjoying your report--a private jet and private Oliver's--not too shabby.

So you used Sayari guides at the Sayari camp--someone can bring their own guide and "rent" a tent, yes?
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Bat - yes - I believe you can bring your own guide to Sayari. There were others there with their own guide and vehicle - but frankly I really liked having the open range rover that Sayari & Olivers uses rather than the enclosed land cruisers.

Our last day on safari was just magical - a great game viewing experience.

We set out early and headed to where we hoped to find lions. Njono must have amazing eye sight because he spotted a male's mane really far away in the high grasses. We flew over in that direction as fast as we could and started spotiing females, cubs - a whole pride. As we were approaching, Njono motioned to a lone wildebeast grazing nearby and then booom - two lioness were on top of it. It was incredible - we watched as she strangled her prey and the poor beasts leg slowly dropping until we knew it was dead. The lioness started to drag her prey close to a group of bushes where the rest of the pride was taking shade. Little cubbies were playing on the corpse as she dragged it. Then big daddy came out and took over. He ate a bit and then retired back under the bushes. There were about 5 other lioness' playing and relaxing near by (and fighting) and we just spent hours that morning observing them.

I am usually pretty squeemish when it comes to blood and guts stuff - and can NEVER watch animals being hurt or killed on tv or in the movies - so I was very surprised at how calm I remained and on how glued to the action I stayed (although I just couldn't look at the dead animals eyes).

On the wayback to the camp for lunch we stopped at the river again to get a last glimpse of the hippos and I was so excited to see that they were all out on the rocks. Finally I got to see the whole hippo! What a concentration of blubber!

Later in the afternoon we went back to our lions and everything was just as we left it. The lions had not eaten any more of the kill, but the vultures weren't touching it either (the carcass was lying just next to the bushes where the lions lay). THe cubs and their moms were playing and big daddy came out for a little walk and to get some water. The carcass was pretty gross by then - covered with flies and I don't know if the rest of the pride ate any of it (it got too smelly so we moved on). As we headed back to camp the vultures were settling in near by trees.

We stopped and watched another owl and said goodbye to a group of ele's on our way back to camp. It was such a satisfying and wonderful day.

The rest of the story is pretty anti-climatic after that. Our plane arrived the next morning for a flight to Arusha where we transferred (after a long and troubling airport delay) for our flight to Zanzibar.

We spent the first night in Stonetown at Emerson & Greene. I wasn't all that impressed with the hotel - I think what once might have been charming is turning a bit to the seedy side. The dinner on the roof was good though in a great atmosphere.

Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel was beautiful - very comfortable, great beach, good food, medium size. Again, due to the late rains, the weather wasn't perfect, but we were on such a high from the safari it didn't really matter. I also think we were the only couple on the entire island of Zanzibar that was not on a honeymoon!). Zanzibar is getting developed so rapidly by hotels now. We did get to see the old men build the dhow and the spice tour was good but not as great as I had expected.

And then it was time for our flight home - after three weeks I think we were ready.

I have a few more thoughts I would like to add, but I think I will wait until tomorrow...
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Old Jul 26th, 2006, 08:55 AM
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Final thoughts - things I can't get out of my head:

That work harder bird that always seemed to be right outside our tent, and the stupid Jambo Buana song - I sing it to my dog when I get home!!!

Thank you all for your advice and help - look for my photos coming this week!

Carol
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Old Jul 26th, 2006, 09:10 AM
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Carol,
I wasn't really into the spice tour either.

Love your brevity in the "Final thoughts" section. I should take a page outta your book.

Can't wait to see photos!
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