Better installment. Reading Comfy and Julia's reasoned comments I wanted to add the animals comment was tongue-in-cheek and not what OP's friend concluded that I implied. Thanks.

gone traveling, no offense taken! ;-)

Comfy, what a contrast: there we were, driving around in air-conditioned buses and fancy SUVs, staying in gorgeous hotels with 4-course gourmet meals, while staring abject poverty in the face wherever we went. Safari tourism is obviously an important part of the East African economy, but you are right, something is not working. Tonnie indicated that there's a lot of government graft and corruption, but that can't explain all of it.

As for the culture clash, a billboard in Nairobi said it all: 4 Maasai men in traditional garb, and it was a cell phone ad! I wonder what it is like for the Maasai to live this dual life, and what it bodes for the long-term survival of their culture. Perhaps the fact that their culture has become a means of economic gain will help to ensure that some semblance of it survives. Certainly I would rather live in the Maasai boma we visited in the Mara than the slum we saw in Nairobi. (So what drives people into the cities to live in those horrid conditions?)

As for the question of how we can help - it is difficult to know where your money can best be put to use. Should we support the school? The weavers project? I'll describe some of Micato's efforts in my final blog entry...

Thoughtful response, Hausfrau. Myriad reasons behind poverty in East Africa such growing cash crops dependent on weather, dictatorships, corruption, tribal fighting, unfettered population growth, climate change, dirty water, etc etc. Migration to urban centers is pretty typical in third world countries where, occasionally, you simply can't sustain yourself in rural region.

If you haven't already, consider reading Guns, Germs, and Steel by Jared Diamond or renting a PBS series with the same title. It contrasts western and eastern culture evolution rather nicely, and basically says there are equally smart/suave people in every culture, it is just that the conditions around them enhance or diminish their potential.

Culture change is inevitable, I think. All societies have gone through it, and Maasai have and will too. You guys may be the lucky ones to do a safari while the Maasai elders weren't already using an iPhone. I know I want one

Hausfrau,

Stumbled on to your report and read it all in one seating. You give extensive details and I feel I am there with you! Finish up the last two days. Thanks.

Great report! Noting Lynda's well deserved success, have you thought of submitting this to a travel magazine?

very good installment and those pygmy hippos look comfortable! Tx for your efforts to post this.

Comfy, Guns, Germs and Steel is on my bookshelf. I have not read the whole book but I'm very familiar with the thesis.

amytravela, thanks! I'm almost there!

julianewman, I just might if I could figure out how to chop it down to a reasonably sized piece...Lynda is very lucky that she got her whole report published!

So....2nd to last post is now up! Not too many pictures this day but I will upload them tomorrow.

Good installment! Must be good to be close to being done. Good luck with publishing.

impressive trophy room. who is taller: reticulated or maasai giraffe? morani shot is cute. is she sleeping? Tx again.

Good installment. Isn't it nice that we bond with people on safaris and that IS one of the highlights of the trip? Curious to know if you did the AmericaShare project on the last day or just relaxed in Nairobi. What are the highs and lows of your entire experience? Thanks again one last time.

First post for me. I wanted to say that I have been enjoying your reports when I can find time. The descriptions were very helpful in helping us decide if a safari is a must when we visit Africa next year. Thanks!

Drum roll please...

This is it folks, the final installment of the Elephant Express is finished! It took me just a TEENY bit longer than planned. I have to say that writing the last entry was the hardest. Thanks for sticking it out with me. Photos are on Flickr too. Special thanks to LyndaS for inspiring me in so many ways!

schuba - I don't know who the tallest giraffe is, I'm afraid. And yes, Morani slept through most of our visit!

amytravela, we didn't officially sign up for the AmericaShare program but requested to visit the slum and orphanage on our last day. It was an experience I will never forget.

chloejonah, glad you enjoyed my report; good luck with your safari decisions!

Thanks! I enjoyed your report.

Jessica, this was just incredible - thankyou SO much for all of the pleasant memories (times 2 now!) you brought forward.

You really are an INCREDIBLE writer, and someday I hope we can meet in person. It's a sad day for me today, our 14 yr old Sheltie, Tequilla, just passed on this morning, (old age related) but reading your final installment was just what the doctor ordered.

Thanks so much again, I will be in touch via remail after this terrible empty feeling fades.

Jeesica- Thanks for your effort. You are not only not a fan of bestiality -Geez Schuba- but write well! Good luck with future travel writing.

J, Good last installment. Thanks! And thanks for all emails etc too. Eric

Liked your report but I must say that the last day is as a good reminder of how yuppies live their lives. Morning in a slum lamenting on poverty and evening in a restaurant not getting impressed with the cooked alligator!

Lynda, I am so very sorry for your loss. I have had dogs all my life and my Australian Shepherd Cody is my constant companion here in Germany, so I understand completely what you must be going through. It is important to remember that Tequilla had a long and happy life and has gone on to a better place. Thank you again for your kind words about my report; I look forward to hearing from you again soon.

Marija, gone traveling, and schuba, thanks as well for your kind remarks!

marthastewart (I find your screen name fascinating, given the nature of your comment), the contrast between the slum and the restaurant (complete with luxury cars parked out front) was not lost on me at all. Perhaps you missed that in my commentary.

Hausfrau, Very nice description of the final day! Specially liked the second to last para. Consider publishing your report.

Best.

I did not miss anything in your commentary. That's what I found odd. Morning in a slum lamenting on poverty to giving meaningless gifts to not finding succulent enough croc dishes! Tell us how the safari impacted you besides 2,500(!) photos.