Africa

<font color="red">Photographic highlights from Day 4<font color="red">

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atravelynn

Newman really is amazing. He even understands hornbill. Nice hornbill picture and those wild cats! Your suckling giraffe was rigbt in the open. The running warthog was excellent. Congrats on the spring hare. Was the lighting with a spotlight and flash?

linhelen

These photos are spectacular! Thanks for posting. I am planning a trip to Botswana in August and your photos are a help in the anticipation.

PredatorBiologist

Thanks Gaurang -- I have fattened again! I want to go to Chitabe just to hang out with Newman, he is a wonder guide. Pictures great as always, tell Jayna I especially love the kudu grooming - that is a unique shot.

Somehow I managed to have Santa Claus deliver me a Planet Earth DVD set all the way from the U.K. only to discover the regional coding protection. I have been able to play it on the computer though using my T.V. as a monitor and the aerial dog hunting film was exceptional. In fact I say without hesitation that after only seeing one of the five discs that it is the greatest wildlife film series ever! Snow leopard hunting and great white shark breaching footage left my jaw on the ground. Of course it has nothing on this report.

Gaurang: shoot me an email if you don't mind, I want to ask you about your video shooting.

cary999

PB,
Many DVD players can be easily hacked to rid them of the region code cr@p restriction. Usually just takes punching in a series of numbers using your remote. This site has how to do it by DVD model -
http://www.videohelp.com/dvdhacks
Some DVD manufacturers, e.g Sony, have models which can not be hacked but some can. If you have a Philips, Samsung, Toshiba, chances are very good you can set it to be region free easily with the remote.
regards - tom

Kavey

Hey Gaurang,
Am really enjoying catching up on the report and especially the pictures... I tried for ages to sign in so I could leave comments but realised that my account is on the .com site and doesn't seem to work for the .co.uk site so suffice it to say that you have some real winners in your collection - am very envious!
Can't wait to read and see more!

Africa

Thanks to everyone for your kind comments. Jayna does read the forum, so she'll be glad that people are enjoying her photos.

Lynn...we used the spotlight. The flash was switched off and the camera was set to ISO 1600. I have some more &quot;spotlight&quot; photos later in the report including genet, serval and pangolin. That wild cat was quite relaxed compared to the other two daytime sightings during our stay at Chitabe. Newman was on another level....it was as though he could understand what the animals were saying (Dr Doolittle?).

Linhelen...always happy to help during anticipation period.

Bill.....save space for desert, the next installment includes one the most amazing game drives of my life!!!
The Planet Earth series is spectacular and even more amazing in high definition (screened on BBC HD). Lol..I don't think my report compares to that. I will send you an email this evening when I get home from work.

Kavey....many thanks and don't worry about the comments. Writing the report in installments and adding the corresponding photos helps to relive the trip on a day-by-day basis. Only 24 more days to go . Sorry, it's a bit slow

napamatt

This would be mainly directed at the americans on the board.

How would you not spend all your time saying &quot;Hello Newman&quot; in your best Seinfeld impression, if you were lucky enough to have Newman guide you.

Enough of the weird sense of humour.

PredatorBiologist

Tom: thanks for the DVD hack link! Of course as luck would have it one of my DVD's has no listed hacks and the other can only be hacked if you are in Europe, doesn't work on USA purchased models.

atravelynn

The baby leopard photo is outstanding too.

cary999

PB
What is make and model of the US market player? (And the other one also).
regards - tom

althom1122

I have just joined in the fun. Am loving both your report and the photos. Add me to the list of &quot;can't wait for more!&quot;
Karen

PredatorBiologist

Tom: I have a Samsung DVD V2000 -- that one has hacks listed that work in Europe but don't get it done for USA purchased models. That is the one I really wish I could disable the regions on.

My other is a Toshiba TiVo model, RS TX-20. Feel free to email me if you have any other ideas. Thanks!

napamatt

Pred

I use my work laptop as an English DVD player. It is very easy to change the region, but Dell only allows four such changes. Though I bet a search of the web may reveal some hack to that. Otherwise, look at the list of hackable DVD players and see if it works in the store and then buy it.

PredatorBiologist

Matt: thanks, my laptop is the same way with 4 changes allowed so I have plugged it into my t.v. with S-Video port. It works o.k. but would have preferred it I could have hacked into the DVD for a little better quality and convenience.

O.K. Gaurang, back to you. Sorry for the hijack.

cybor

Gaurang,
Your killing me with those photos!

I must now figure out a way to get myself to Chitabe Trails sooner. I've already requested Newman - hopefully, he'll be there at that time. Any advice on one tent being placed better than another?

I shall go back to your photos everytime I need a fix. The precious leopard, the giraffe, hornbill, batleur (I could go on) all brocure (your term) perfect.

Are going to spring some dog sights on us?
Cheers;
Sherry

Africa

Thanks Karen, there's still a lot more to come.

Sherry regarding the tents at Chitabe Trails, there are only 5. Rooms 4 and 5 are larger and designed to house larger family groups. Room 1 (our room) was the furthest away from the main area and is also the most secluded. I would recommend it has the best views from the outdoor shower area. It was also the best spot for seeing birds and animals from camp. I think you'll enjoy the report and photos from Day 5

cw

I am just catching up with this lovely report and the photos. It is wonderful.

And let me say that you're writing &quot;there's a lot more to come&quot; is the best thing I've heard all day, actually the best thing I've heard all week!

Thank you.

CW

Africa

DAY 5 – MYSTERY CAT?

Before I begin the description of our final game drive at Chitabe Trails, let me tell you of a strange sighting I had on the morning of Day 5…….it was 5:35am and Jayna was already in the lounge area having her breakfast. I had just left our room and was on my way to join her, carrying my camcorder and camera bag. As I was walking along the raised walkway I heard some rustling in the bushes to my right. There was more than enough light by now so I decided to scan the area from where the sound was coming from. All of a sudden a small cat appeared about 10 metres away from me but I could not identify it as it was unlike anything I had seen before. It was like an African Wild Cat but had a completely golden tan colour. It was definitely not a lion cub, a serval or a caracal – if anything it was like an African Golden Cat but I’m sure that they are not found in Botswana. We both stared at each other for about 10 seconds and as I slowly went to switch on my camcorder, it disappeared in to the bushes again. If only I reacted quicker? But I was too busy trying to work out what it was. I tried searching for it without any luck. When I got to the lounge I described my sighting and then Newman explained that I am not the only person that has seen this cat. He said that this cat hangs around the camp area and it is rare to see it – early morning around first light is your best chance to see it. Newman believes it is a cross-breed or a variation of the African Wild Cat. Jayna still thinks I’m mad and I was just seeing things but I know what I saw!!!!

<b>So for all Fodorites who will be visiting Chitabe Trails in the future, please keep a look out for this cat and please make sure your cameras are ready as soon as you leave your rooms first thing in the morning. I would love for someone to capture this cat on camera.<b>

Maybe someone else has already seen it?

To be continued………
</b></b>

Africa

DAY 5 (continued)

Early morning breakfast was very humorous, at the expense of poor old Andrea. Two nights ago Andrea had one of the most frightening experiences of his young life as a safari guide. Andrea, like all of the other guides, sleeps in the staff village where each guide has his separate housing. That night Andrea woke from deep sleep and opened his eyes to find he was staring in to the barrel of an elephant’s trunk, not more than 15 inches from his face!!!! He let out a scream that was heard by one of the other guides who came to his rescue. The other guide managed to chase off the bull elephant whilst laughing at the same time. Apparently, some of the sheeting on the housing roof was removed by baboons leaving a big gaping hole above one side of the room. So a very large and curious bull elephant decided to investigate this hole, without knowing that Andrea’s bed was directly beneath it. What was meant to be a secret between Andrea and his rescuer soon became public knowledge throughout the concession, including the fact that Andrea screamed. The next day Andrea repaired his roof and moved his bed to the centre of the room just in case it happened again. Although, he did still seem a bit traumatised.

We set off for our last game drive from Chitabe Trails. Newman believed that the male lion was close by and spent the night near camp. The previous night just before dinner, the lion was patrolling the channel right outside of camp, serenading everyone when we were having our drinks around the fire. By looking at the photos of the camp, you can see why some guests (and staff) felt slightly exposed, considering the lion was not more than 40-50 meters from the lounge area. I forgot to mention that Chitabe Trails has a very spacious and luxurious toilet that is just a short walk away from the main area. The staff claimed it is the best camp toilet in Botswana and it also has a great view (and I didn’t see anything to match it on the rest of our trip). But last night everyone decided to give the toilet a miss, as the lion was so close by.

Soon after leaving camp we came across the now resident herd of buffalo. It was another day of poor light, for photography, but we could not resist. The early morning mist rising behind the herd produced some nice shots. As we were driving along, I suddenly stopped the car and shouted “honey badger”. I pointed in the distant direction (with a proud feeling that I had spotted something before Newman). By now it was behind some bushes. Then Newman also spotted a honey badger and headed towards the direction I pointed out but veered off as we got closer. I said “it went that way” pointing to our left and Newman headed towards the right “saying there are two of them hunting as a pair and one went this way, but it was a very good spot”. In the end we lost both of them, so no honey badger photos. As well as seeing of the usual birds and mammals, Newman did find the male lion who was relaxing while trying to get some early morning sunshine (well, what ever sunlight that could creep through the clouds). We also came across another grumpy bull elephant, again showing aggression accompanied by lots of dust and flapping ears but he calmed down in the end. Newman also pointed out an elderly elephant that had a collapsed ear and told us that this is usually a sign that the elephant may have had a stroke. Quite interesting.

We were soon on our way leaving the elephants to feed when Newman suddenly stopped the vehicle. He got out and slowly paced in front of the vehicle. Then he returned quite hurriedly and said “these are FRESH wild dog tracks, they are definitely in the concession” . Everyone got excited, even the honeymoon couple from the USA, following their introduction to wild dogs via the Planet Earth DVD last night. Now Newman was on a mission!!!! He told everyone to hold on tight and sped off in the direction of the tracks. He radioed the other Chitabe vehicles to inform them of his find and to get assistance in his search. Within 5 minutes, Phinley from Chitabe main camp radioed Newman to tell him that they have also picked up fresh tracks close to the airstrip, the hunt was now on!!! We were miles from the airstrip and on the other side of the concession, separated by endless thick mopane woodland. A few minutes later Phinley contacted Newman to tell him that the dogs had just been seen shooting across the airstrip at high speed. They were on the hunt and had already locked on to their target, heading straight into thick mopane woodland (of which we were on the other side of). So as quickly as Phinley saw them, he had lost them. The baton was now passed on to Newman who was still miles away from the area. After getting a rough estimate of the direction in which the dogs were travelling, Newman really put his foot down!!! We were now driving at break-neck speeds and literally flying past other animals such as elephants, giraffes and impala who all watched us flash by with confused looks on their faces. Newman had a big smile and his face and was enjoying this just as much as we were. We were still driving parallel to the mopane woodland and this was the most exhilarating off-road driving that we had ever experienced. All of a sudden Newman swerved right and cut in to the mopane woodland. To the left, to the right and in front of us, all we could see was endless thick woodland. Newman continued his quest, crushing all mopane in his path. Confused, I asked Newman how we were meant to find wild dogs in this maze. Newman replied “Look for vultures sitting in a tree and that’s where the dogs will be. I know these dogs and they would have already made the kill by now, they are very good hunters” . Within a couple of minutes we spotted 3 vultures sitting in a tree about 300 meters in front of us and headed that way. Just as Newman had predicted, the dogs were there amongst a barrage of fallen trees. Newman managed to manoeuvre our vehicle in to a good spot and, to begin with, we were the only ones there. All seven members of the pack were present and feeding on a male impala that had been killed not less than 5 minutes before. The alpha male and female were wearing collars and were also the more confident members of the pack, approaching very close to the vehicle. Despite the feeding frenzy there was definitely some type of order, with the alpha male and female spending more time looking out for other predators whilst the other five dogs fed frantically. These animals do not like sitting still for photos, especially when feeding!!! Please note that some of the feeding photos are quite detailed, so you have been warned. Soon more vehicles started to arrive, including some from Sandibe Lodge (but they waited until all of the Chitabe vehicles had seen the dogs first). Once we had got our fill, we left the area to have a quick drinks stop and discuss the events that had just unfolded (everyone also needed a bush stop following that adrenaline-charged pursuit). I am still amazed at how Newman knew where to exactly dissect the mopane woodland. What a perfect end to our stay at Chitabe Trails, we could not have even scripted this!!!

We headed back to camp to have lunch and pack for our transfer to Duba Plains. Our transfer to the airstrip was very eventful, including a large breeding herd of about 60 elephants and a journey of about 30-35 giraffe and well as many other animals. Newman said that the animals were coming out to bid farewell and he hoped that we would return to Chitabe Trails one day. At the airstrip he gave us his home address so that we could send him some of the photos. Despite it being our first camp in Botswana, everything was so perfect that it was sad to leave it all behind but we will definitely return to Chitabe Trails one day.