Craig & Jeane Visit South Africa Feb 2016

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Feb 27th, 2016, 10:40 AM
  #21
 
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Hi Craig. We are going to SA for my 60th b-day. Like you, my husband and I take 2 1/2 week vacations every year. We live in Chicago. We have done mostly Europe so far. The beginning of our trip is much the same as yours. I'm enjoying your trip report and looking forward to more. Thanks for sharing!

Annhig, I have been on many forums over the past 10 years and see your postings quite often. Apparently we like similar destinations. My husband and I were discussing a trip to Cuba and I see that you've been there as well. I'd love to hear about your trip there. Can you email me so we can chat? [email protected] Appreciate it!
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Feb 27th, 2016, 11:28 AM
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hi soods,

if you click on my screen name you'll see the beginning of my TR on Cuba, which has rather hit the buffers at the moment but I am intending to go back to it when I've got time.

but I'll gladly e-mail you - just going to do so now.
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Feb 27th, 2016, 11:35 AM
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soods - just tried to e-mail you but the address doesn't work.

Can you check it?
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Feb 27th, 2016, 11:36 AM
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ok - just think I did it.
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Feb 27th, 2016, 12:01 PM
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Day 5 Franschhoek

By the time Jeane and I had awakened, showered and dressed, breakfast was almost over. However, we managed to enjoy the wide buffet assortment and a hot entree before heading into the village on foot, a 15 or 20 minute walk. That gave Jeane and hour or so to shop before our 12:15 PM Wine Tram reservation. The shopping in Franschhoek is pretty upscale and seemed to be targeted at persons of “a certain age”, which suited Jeane just fine. Unfortunately, she was unable to tackle it all in the time allotted. Since most of the stores close at 5 PM and would not open until after we had departed the next day, she was a bit frustrated. While she managed to purchase a summer dress, by 12:15 she had only visited about half of the stores on the main shopping street.

The Franschhoek Wine Tram is really an old-fashioned train that runs between two of the area wineries and a fleet of buses that runs between the other area wineries. There are 4 different routes with starting times as early as 10 AM and finishing times between 5 and 6 PM. In theory, one could visit as many as 6 wineries in the course of a day. Wine Tram tickets include complimentary wine tastings at some of the wineries. We chose the latest starting time on the “Green Line”, which would allow us to visit 4 wineries, spending an hour at each one.

As we sat outside the Rickety Bridge Winery enjoying a selection of whites and reds, I mentioned to Jeane that one of our stops would be back at the village. We could skip one winery, and she could use that hour to finish up her shopping. While she didn’t want to deprive me of a winery visit, this seemed to be a good solution and it ended up working out perfectly. In that hour, Jeane managed to visit the remaining shops and purchase a blue ostrich-skin handbag and couple of other items. Afterward we continued on the Wine Tram to the Holden Manz and La Bourgogne Wineries and took advantage of their complimentary tastings. Of the two, we preferred La Bourgogne which had much friendlier service and olive oil tastings in addition to the wine. I purchased a bottle of Malbec there.

We returned to the village and walked back to our B&B to drop off our purchases. Our dinner that night was at Foliage, a contemporary bistro with an open kitchen. It was fun to watch the staff, led by a very energetic and creative head chef in action. While I don’t recall exactly what we had, I remember it being quite good and beautifully presented. Afterward we headed back to Franschhoek Manor to do some packing in advance of our departure the next day.

Day 6 Franschhoek to Knysna via Cango Wildlife Ranch

Breakfast at Franschhoek Manor is normally served from 8:30 to 10 AM. Since we needed to get an early start, with a long drive ahead of us, I asked Wolfgang if could eat at 8 AM. He was fine with that, but the staff would not arrive early enough to prepare us a hot entree. This was not a problem for us and thus we were on our way before 9.

The R45 out of Franschhoek ascends quickly and has turnoffs that afford amazing views of the village below. It continues on through the Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve and eventually hooks up with the R60 and R62 to Oudtshoorn and the Cango Wildlife Ranch. Along the way, we were forced to detour as part of the R62 was completely closed for blasting. Fortunately, Google Maps saved the day and guided us to a parallel route that cost us very little extra time. This was a spectacular drive through rugged terrain somewhat reminiscent of southwest Colorado or perhaps somewhere in Australia, but unique in its own way.

We arrived at the Cango Wildlife Ranch at mid-afternoon. Our sole reason for going there was because Jeane wanted to pet a cheetah while she was in South Africa. Cango is a wildlife conservation center with an excellent reputation for rescuing animals from the wild and rehabilitating them. It’s mission is to save animals such as the cheetah from extinction and to educate people about the vulnerability and importance of wildlife diversity. The admission fee includes a 1-hour tour but there are additional fees for interaction with the animals.

We were under the impression that the tour was mandatory and we were given a time when it was to begin. In the meantime, we would be free to view the various animals within and they would call us when the tour started. Cango’s website lists the animals on display. It is a bit of a glorified zoo, really. Anyway, the time came with no announcement, but we found our way over to where the tour was just getting underway. The first thing the tour guide announced was that the tour might run up to 2 hours - not good as we just wanted to meet the cheetahs and move on, so we could check into our hotel and get to dinner on time for our reservation. Fortunately, a couple nearby told us that they had already interacted with the cheetahs and that it would take only about 10 minutes. We said goodbye to the tour and made our way to the cheetahs.

Our visit with the cheetahs was highly controlled, but professional and well-done. We were warned to touch them only in certain places. We were required to put our backpacks (sans cameras) in a locker. There was a guide and a photographer. We were also allowed to take our own photographs. We started with the adult cheetahs and got some great photos with both Jeane and I petting a cheetah. They actually purr! Jeane also interacted with the baby cheetahs, 3 months old. Since I did not participate this time and was not allowed inside the cage with the cheetahs, the photographer got some more excellent photos of Jeane with the babies.

When we were done, we headed to Knysna, about 2 hours away. On arrival at Villa Afrikana, we were asked if we wanted to push back our restaurant reservation by half an hour. Since we needed some time to settle in, we enthusiastically agreed. We were greeted with a bottle of South African Merlot Cabernet blend in our spacious room on the top floor of the B&B. The views of the lagoon from our deck were awesome.

There is no Uber presence in Knysna so we arranged for a taxi for the short ride to Caffe Mario, an Italian restaurant in the Waterfront area. The restaurant was very busy, but we were seated immediately. We chose to sit outdoors, since it was quite warm inside. Outside it was breezy, but manageable. Our wine and drink orders came quickly, but it took an hour for our entrees to arrive. Jeane had ordered a vegetarian pasta and I ordered their signature pizza with bacon, avocado, peppers and banana. I complained to the server about the wait time. Jeane loved her vegetarian dish, but I thought the pizza was mediocre at best. No worries - the server arrived with the check, less than US$12 with the management comping us on our beverages on account of the slow service.

Our server arranged for a taxi to return to Villa Afrikana and we headed to bed on arrival. This is an ideal time to talk about tipping in South Africa. The standard tip for good service in restaurants is 10% (cash only), maybe a little bit more if service is exceptional. I tipped R100 per day for staff at our B&B’s and safari (not including safari guide), R2 for the parking guys, R2 for the gas (petrol) station attendants and rounded up for taxis (but not Uber which does not require tips).

Next: Day 7 Knysna - a Horseback Ride in the Forest, the Emzini Township Tour and Cook & Look at Kilzer’s Kitchen
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Feb 27th, 2016, 12:19 PM
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Craig, thanks for the tipping tips. Still enjoying your report.
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Feb 28th, 2016, 06:35 AM
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Day 7 Knysna

Our 2 hour horseback ride at Southern Comfort Ranch was scheduled for 8:30 AM on our first morning in Knysna. Looking back, we probably could have asked for a later time, but since an early breakfast was not a viable option, we decided to arrange for it to be delivered to our room after we returned. Villa Africana and all of the other places we stayed had Nespresso machines in the rooms, so I did not have to go without my morning coffee before heading out.

Southern Comfort was about 20-25 minutes east of our B&B along a dirt road. There are probably better rides along the Garden Route, but those would have required us to go significantly out of our way. The ride through the forest was pleasant, but if we hadn’t wanted to do a horseback ride in South Africa, we could have easily skipped this. Our guide was friendly and interested in learning about life in the USA. The owner, Magriet was very talkative and frustrated about growing older with no retirement in sight. We were surprised that she could only take cash and thus we only had R600 of the R800 cost with us plus a little extra for our guide. We must have looked honest however, as Magriet told us we could return the next day with the balance.

Afterwards, we returned to Villa Afrikana and enjoyed a brunch, delivered to our room, that far exceeded our expectations. After relaxing for a while, Penny from Emzini Tours arrived to pick us up for our 2 PM township tour. We were joined by Ella, who grew up in the township and 4 other guests. The township we visited was just outside of Knysna. It was small by South African standards, about 25,000 people. We saw some very basic shacks as well as their replacements that were currently being provided by the Government. Our tour included visits to a hair salon and a cobbler. We heard about the relocations that occurred a few decades ago. Also on our tour was a modern library, also provided by the government. We were unable visit any health facilities as those were apparently off-limits to Emzini Tours. The tour ended at a group home for abused children. We had tea and biscuits, attempted to learn Xhosa, the local language of clicks and other sounds, that for us were impossible to reproduce. Lastly, we participated in a fun sing-along with the children, mostly helping with the African drums. In all, good photo ops and a worthwhile afternoon.

After an afternoon cocktail at Villa Afrikana, we took a very short taxi ride to Kilzer’s Kitchen, a cooking school where the owners host a once-a-week “Cook ‘n Look” dinner. This was an outstanding experience as we were seated right in front of the kitchen. There were several other groups of couples there, most seated away from the action, and unable to see what was going on. Meanwhile we had a great view as the energetic staff led by a husband and wife team prepared our 3-course meal. We started with spring rolls, moved on to Kudu fillet with mango sauce, and finished with a beautifully presented chocolate tart. While we had brought our own wine, we were served a homemade limoncello liquor on arrival. Jeane managed to persuade them to part with a bottle, with the excuse that her birthday was upcoming in a few days. Total cost of the meal: $40 for two. Our server called a taxi for us and we headed straight to bed upon arriving at Villa Afrikana.

Day 8 Knysna

We enjoyed another fabulous breakfast in our room along with a hot entree today. The fruits at our breakfasts everywhere have been amazing: pineapple, mango, peaches, nectarines, strawberries, blueberries, melons, etc. Our plan was to drive toward Plettenberg, stopping at Southern Comfort to drop off the money we owed them and then do a hike at Robberg Nature Reserve. At Robberg, one can do a 2 hour hike as we did, cutting across the peninsula on the trail at the Witsand sand dune or do a 4 hour hike that encompasses the entire peninsula. Either way, the views of the crystal clear blue water, sandy beaches and rugged coastline are amazing. We also encountered a seal colony along the north side of the peninsula. After the hike, we returned to Villa Afrikana to prepare for our cruise on the lagoon to Featherbed Nature Reserve.

The Featherbed cruise has several departure times, some that include lunch and some that don’t. We opted for a 2:30 PM departure without the meal. The entire tour took about 3 hours. There was a 1/2 hour ferry cruise out to the Western Head on the Knysna Lagoon, where the private Featherbed Reserve is located. After exiting the boat, a 4X4 vehicle took us up the headland and into the reserve to a terrific viewpoint where we could see the confluence of the lagoon and the Indian Ocean between the Eastern and Western heads. From there, we had an easy downhill hike through coastal forest back to our starting point, an outdoor restaurant and bar, where we had time for a beer before returning to the ferry for the 1/2 hour cruise back. Throughout the tour, our guide provided us with a running commentary on the history of “our little town of Kynsna” and the flora and fauna in the area. While this was a nice way to spend the afternoon and learn more about this particular part of South Africa, I would not consider it a “must-do”.

Dinner that night was at JJ’s back at the Waterfront. We had the “Millionaire’s Salad" and split a generous South African game platter with chili sauce. We skipped dessert because we had been eating so much. It was a pleasant meal at a nice location overlooking the lagoon. Afterward we returned to Villa Afrikana and a very restful sleep.

Next: Day 9 Knysna to Shamwari Game Reserve
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Feb 28th, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Day 9 Kynsna to Shamwari Game Reserve
Days 10 and 11 Shamwari Game Reserve
Day 12 Shamwari and home

Jeane and I enjoyed a very leisurely breakfast before packing and checking out of Villa Afrikana. We had had some laundry done while we were there, which was the only additional (and quite reasonable) charge we had. Before leaving we were able to chat with the owners Ross and Bianca about how much we enjoyed our stay.

The drive along the N2 to Shamwari Game Reserve took about 4 hours. Much of it is a very well-kept toll road and around Port Elizabeth it is a 4-lane divided highway. Although the roads are consistently good, driving in South Africa requires constant attention as there are frequent lane drops and speed limit changes. Passing should be done with extreme caution as accidents are not uncommon.

Our lodging at Shamwari was at Eagle’s Crag - 9 roomy bungalows, each with its own plunge pool and outdoor shower. Like the other properties where we stayed, it was extremely well-appointed. We arrived at mid-afternoon and were directed to park our car in a carport near the reception area. By the time we had checked in and made our way to our bungalow, our bags had been delivered. We were offered lunch but saw no need for it and would continue to pass on the mid-day meal throughout our stay, opting instead to take a short nap. Our afternoon game drive was scheduled to start at 3:30 PM so we went about settling in until then. I checked out the plunge pool - it was cool, but refreshing.

Shamwari is a privately-owned reserve. It began operations in the early ‘90’s and was the first in the south to do so. Prior to becoming a game reserve, the area had been farmland since the mid-1800’s when the animals we could see today roamed free. Eagle’s Crag and Shamwari’s five other lodges share guides and operate on the same schedule which is similar to how most game parks and reserves operate. A wake-up call comes at 5 AM with 5:30 coffee at reception and departure for the morning game drive at about 5:45. A very hearty breakfast is served between 9 and 11 and a light lunch is served between 1 and 3. The afternoon game drive departs at 3:30 or 4 and then dinner is served starting at 7:30 PM. All meals are very casual. At breakfast, guests generally sit with their guides and the others in their group. Dinners at Shamwari alternate between individual indoor table service and an outdoor group braai (barbecue), where guests are seated in a circle next to their guides and the others in their group.

We found the food to be quite good, although the one individual dinner we had was better than either of the braais. The breakfasts were of the same excellent standard we experienced elsewhere in South Africa. Meals were included in the price of the lodging. Wine and alcoholic beverages were extra, but not unreasonable.

The safari vehicles are modified Toyota Land Cruisers that are open, but covered for protection from the sun and rain. They seat a ranger (guide/driver) plus 6 guests quite comfortably and are equipped with blankets and ponchos in case of bad weather. Our excellent ranger Franz took us on 6 game drives in all. The mix of people varied from drive to drive, but once guests are assigned to a guide, they have him for the entire stay. On two of our drives, there were 3 couples. On our second drive, it was just Jeane and I. On the other 3, there were 2 couples. Almost all of our safari partners hailed from England except for one of the couples who came from Ireland.

The weather was mostly mild but it was chilly in the mornings, especially starting out. There was rain for a time on two mornings and one afternoon. Our best game sighting occurred during a rainy period though, as we observed several herds of elephants (adults, teenagers and babies) playing and frolicking with each other in and around a lake. Our ranger Frans described it as a once-in-a-lifetime event. During the course of our stay we saw male and female lions, several white rhinos, a herd of cape buffalo, several cheetahs, lots of tortoises, giraffes, and zebras, hippos, jackals, mongooses, monkeys, and a wide variety of antelopes and birds.

On our final day, we needed extra time to pack and get ready for our flight time and were allowed to check out an hour later. When I came to settle the bill, the staff person asked me if I wanted my rental car washed before we departed - a nice touch. During the breakfast after our final game drive I pulled Franz aside and gave him an envelope with R900 (about US$10 per person per day) for making our visit so pleasurable.

The drive to the Port Elizabeth airport took about an hour and 15 minutes. There was a petrol station near the airport entrance where I was able to top off our gas tank. The car rental return is located right in the airport, so it was an easy walk to check in. The rental return went smoothly with no problems. The Port Elizabeth airport is small and check in went quickly as did the security check. We checked our bags through to Hartford, although we would have to pick them up at Washington Dulles and recheck them. There is a South African Airways business class lounge which we took advantage of until our flight to Johannesburg was called.

The flight to Johannesburg was on time and lasted about an hour and a half. We were served a meal on the flight which was inedible, but otherwise it was a good flight. It is kind of annoying that the airline hasn’t gotten the memo that using electronic devices during takeoff and landing is harmless. On the ground in Johannesburg we went through an exit immigration check and then another security check. Right after security, is an escalator that leads to the VAT refund office. Since Jeane had made a lot of purchases, it made sense to try to get the 14% tax back. We were fortunate that we had plenty of time between flights as the queue moves slowly. It is necessary to have all purchases available for inspection (in one’s carry-on), in addition to tax receipts in order to get a refund. The refund comes in the form of a debit card, which is not activated for 60 days. We think we will be notified via e-mail when it is active. All in all, a lot of hassle for about $100.

While boarding for our overseas flight was on-time, our departure was delayed in order to remove bags that belonged to passengers that had not boarded the flight. Dinner was served, but it was not as good as what we had on the flight over. We slept for a couple of hours afterward but were woken up for our landing in Ghana before continuing on to Washington Dulles. We spent two hours on the ground this time, with security going over the aircraft with a fine toothed comb and lots of flashing lights on the tarmac but no explanation of what it was all about.

After the delayed takeoff, we immediately went back to sleep. I rose about 6 hours later for good and asked for some coffee. I had to do this in person because the entertainment system, including the ability to summon a flight attendant and to charge my phone had been disabled. Don’t know what the deal was with that. We had to wait an awfully long time for breakfast to be served. It came just 1-1/2 hours before we landed and we were starving. It was filling, but that is about it. We landed very late in Washington. I had lamented not being able to get a 2 hour connection with FF miles, but now was overjoyed that we would make our last flight home with ease.

We were one of the first off the aircraft but we had to take a shuttle to immigration and customs so we were one of the last in line at immigration. It didn’t matter, we eventually got through, picked up our bags and rechecked them after customs with no problems. We still had a long layover and headed for the tired United lounge to wait for our next flight. In the lounge I was able to shave. The wifi worked and the selection of food and drink were actually decent, so we were content. Our Hartford flight was on time and we arrived home in mid-afternoon.

If you have made it this far, thanks for “listening”. I’ll check back for the next week or so and answer questions. I’ll also post a link to our photos when they are ready. If you read this several months from now, don’t expect a rapid response to your post as I don’t regularly frequent this board.
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Feb 28th, 2016, 11:34 AM
  #29
 
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Thank you for an excellent report, Craig. Your safari days sounds like the perfect way to end your trip to South Africa.
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Feb 28th, 2016, 12:37 PM
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Hi Craig - we too did a stint at Shamwari and liked it a lot, though it was a bit "high end" for us; we only ended up there because our travel company pointed out that we got 3 nights free at the Raddison in Cape Town if we booked 2 at Shamwari so it was a done deal!

We also did a half day at Addo, and a night at another one nearby which was much more "down market" - it was lots of fun with a great night safari and we slept in huts that had no electricity which the kids loved.
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Feb 28th, 2016, 10:18 PM
  #31
 
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Hi Craig, your trip report was very interesting to read! Just a note: tipping in South African restaurants is not cash only, if you are able to pay with a card you can usually write down the tip (gratuity) on the bill and it will be added to the total amount deducted from your card, no cash needed. There might be exceptions, but this is the way it usually works.
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Feb 29th, 2016, 02:04 AM
  #32
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Lidia, I actually did tip on the bill occasionally, but my understanding is that restaurants only distribute tips to servers once a month. With cash there is no waiting...
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Feb 29th, 2016, 11:19 AM
  #33
 
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Hi Craig,
I just caught up with your TR as we were away for a month.

We too had to try twice to get to the top of Table Mountain. Wind closes the gondola frequently. We were told that 75% of the tourists trying to get to the top of Table Mountain by gondola are unsucessful, so I guess we should consider ourselves lucky.

Instead of going to the District 6 Museum, we took a tour of a township which proved to be interesting and revealing of the fact that regardless of the race of the people in power, a lot of the underclass seems to get left behind.

Thanks for posting. Your TR brought back great memories of our trip.
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Mar 1st, 2016, 03:57 PM
  #34
 
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enjoyable read, thanks
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Mar 4th, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Hi Craig,

Fantastic trip report. I really enjoyed the country from your viewpoint. I am back again in July and will use your TR to visit some places that I have never been, so thank you!

One last thing. I have been to SA numerous times, and have always been driven by drivers, taxis or Uber. No matter what part of the country I have been in, I have been scared to self-drive due to the high level of crime and accidents. And this is from a person who gladly drives throughout Europe, the Caribbean and even other parts of Africa. So how was it? From your report, it sounds like you did not have any troubles whatsoever....

Thanks in advance.
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Mar 5th, 2016, 02:59 AM
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Lola, you are correct in that we had no troubles. Regarding crime and by that I assume you mean theft - we were careful to to keep all of our bags locked in our trunk and left nothing visible in the passenger compartment when the car was parked. The potential for an accident was definitely there. While the roads are in great condition, most highways are a single lane in each direction with a lot of slow moving vehicles, which increases the need to pass and the possibility of colliding with an oncoming vehicle. On hills there are passing lanes and at intersections there are turning lanes, all which require a degree of concentration to navigate. And of course, If you are used to driving on the right when the South Africans drive on the left, that further complicates things. Driving in SA is not for everyone and I personally would never drive at night.
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Mar 5th, 2016, 09:43 AM
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Lola, we also hired a car in SA, and apart from our first day, it was pretty well without incident. Most places where you park have self-appointed guardians who for a small amount will keep an eye on your car - we never had any troubles.

However despite being very familiar with driving on the left, we [or rather DH] managed to burst a tyre on our first day, and we had to sit by the side of the road with all our luggage while DH changed the wheel. I have to say that I was a bit [ok, more than a bit] nervous while he did so, but no-one stopped, either to help or hinder.

The only other problem I remember was the huge bull that suddenly appeared on the road in front of us as we were driving along the Garden Route, but even he proved pretty benign in the end.

We did not drive at night very much - fortunately we didn't have the need to do so.
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Mar 6th, 2016, 10:09 AM
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Thank you for the feedback on driving. Once I put an itinerary together, I will post a few questions about some short, scenic routes.

Lolazahra
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Mar 7th, 2016, 01:19 PM
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Photos are up - you can view them here:
https://craigandjeane.smugmug.com/Tr...h-Africa-2016/
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Mar 8th, 2016, 04:21 AM
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Thanks for sharing your photos, Craig. Cannot believe how close you are to that cheetah!
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