CaliNurse

Thanks Inquest for your honest feedback on Tembo. It sounds like a great effort and investment by the owner, which hopefully will soon pay off!
Did you take the boat up the Kazinga Channel? One of THE great African experiences, imho...I followed mine with a drink at the wonderful lounge/bar at Mweya. with its bird-filled terrace overlooking the Channel. You?

inquest

What I infact did was drove to the peninsula,in our vehicle.It was about 2.30 pm when we set off from Tembo and made our way towards the peninsula.Barely drove about 15 mins,realised we had a flat tire.Took us close to another 45 mins to set things right.

Its a game drive in itself.The mud track runs all along the channel upto the Peninsula.Practically every animal that intends to quench its thirst has to cut across this mud track to and from the QE NP.There was plenty of wildlife.Grazing hippos, elephants, Kobs, Buffalo,Reed buck and countless birds.The drive was about 45 mins. As we reached, the view was spectacular.360 deg panorama of the lake and the Rwenzori mountains,the channel below, Absolutely ethereal.

At the Mweya lodge I was told that only one cruise was launched as there were not enough tourists.It was disappointing,I didn't make it on time.I saw a motor boat with a few tourists had already set sail. I literally 'missed the boat'.I sat in the veranda of the Tembo Bar.A cold lager,in hand, I sat there,the outstanding views and the ambience was incredible.Could see buffalo,as tiny specks, at the water's edge.A little further away was a lone elephant in the water.My binics came in very handy.As the orange winsome skies slowly turned scarlet,it was time to return to my cottage at Tembo Safari Lodge...

inquest

The next morning as I sat on my deck with morning cuppa, I saw that there was a motor boat down in the pier.I hit upon a plan.Since I had missed the boat the previous day at Mweya,thought I'll take a chance by hiring this boat.Soon sent Howard, the 'Emissary' down to the boatmen to negotiate the price and check its sea-worthiness.Back he came, with a beaming smile.$25 for a 3 hr ride up( and down) the channel.

My camera pack, some packed breakfast,was soon sailing across on the channel towards Mweya. The hippos were everywhere,plenty of them,eagerly guarding their territory. Birds were aplenty,Pied Kingfishers,Goliath Heron,Pink-Backed Pelicans, Yellow Billed Stork,African Fish Eagle Great and Long Tailed Cormorants, Open-Billed Stork, Saddle Bill Stork, Darters,Hammerkops,Weavers.A birder's paradise !!

Buffalo wallowing in the water, groomed by ox-peckers. Further up were a herd of elephants frolicking.The ever nervous Kobs too were at the water's edge.Nile crocodiles basking.This was the best wildlife showcase ever !! The cruise turned out to be close to 4 hrs!Didn't quite realise how time flew.So engrossed with birding and photography,breakfast turned into 'brunch'.Out came the Spanish omelette,bacon,sausages and beans with a chilled Lager.Back to the cottage by 1pm,afternoon siesta and by 3pm off towards QE np....

CaliNurse

Sounding like a broken record, I have to say this is a wonderful report with great evocative details! So true that sometimes the unexpected hassles can lead to memorable experiences--e.g. your flat tire!!
Indeed, the bar/verandah (I hadn't remembered it was also called Tembo!) at Mweya Lodge is a great place to chill. Loved the view, and the omnipresent yellow birds! Delicious lunch there too--difficult to tear myself away from the setting. Glad you enjoyed it too!!
Your guide Howard sounds like a prince!!
Great motorboat story! Were you ever nervous? Three hippos emerged from under the much larger group boat I was on, nearly knocking the vessel on its side. Scary! On your little boat, the hippo encounter would have been from IN the water!
You sure found great ways to have a blast at prices 1/20th of what many people spend!!

progol

Wow. Wow. Wow. What can I say except Wow! I have not yet been to Africa but my dear friend CaliNurse has definitely inspired me to think about a visit (or 2... or 3), and reading your experiences has me enchanted!

I was bug-eyed, as I read the following:
<<Suddenly,in the dead of the night I was rudely woken up by a deafening grunt from the hippo right next to my window.I was shaking.I could clearly see the hippo silhouetted,a 2 ton brute,in the moonlight,grazing.The grunts, was answered by another,bellowing back and forth, a distance away.The chorus continued.I sat up laughing,listening to the cacophony.>>

What an opening to a great story! You have sold me and I'm following you for the rest of the way, wherever this may lead! And while I don't know when, I do know that you've gotten me hooked on thoughts on Uganda!

FWIW, I love the choices of places you stayed in - your description of what you're looking for suits me just fine. And I'm intrigued by the influence of India in the Ugandan culture, as I'm also bitten by the India bug (though only one trip under my belt so far).

So another devotee following your great adventures!

inquest

Progol,Uganda is a beautiful country with beautiful people and beautiful flora and fauna.Words are not enough to describe the land, filled with large lakes,towering mountains,dense rain forests,lush green countryside,fascinating culture and delectable cuisine.A country very unique.Very much recommended.I barely scratched the surface in the 13 days I was there.So impressed, I plan to return some day. Thx for appreciating the report.I'll do my best.

Cali,if it wasn't for your encouragement,I would have aborted this long ago. Thx for egging me on and I'm enjoying re-living the experience.Yes,I was absolutely nervous about the hippos,they are really scary.Our dingy,had a reasonably powerful motor,capable of out running a hippo in the water but no guarantee/assurance if we had been knocked from under. I've earlier been on the mokoro in the Okawango and the dug out canoe in Mana Pools.Far more scary as you paddle close to the pods.Fortunately, nothing untoward happened there. This in comparison was a smooth sail.
There is a case,way back in 2003,where former Miss South Africa,was attacked and bitten by the hippo in the Okawango. In a related incident,a month earlier,a couple on a honeymoon was attacked, where the woman lost her life.Its essential to give them a wide berth. Unfortunately,it isn't the case in the channel in Uganda,people risk their lives daily,existing in dangerously close proximity, to which, I'm a witness.

inquest

The visit to the QE Np , was nothing exceptional, practically most of its denizens would take the path next to my deck to the channel,the first night at the cottage I saw the bull elephant,kobs buffalo, a hyena and a family of warthogs. The park is savannah grassland,is home to over 600 species of birds, buffalos in large herds roam the np. Saw elephants in small groups.To the south is the Mweya Peninsula at the confluence of the Kazinga Channel with Lake Edward to the west,bordering DRC.The northern Kasenyi plains have a good game viewing network with Lake George, the region is dotted with Craters lakes and dry caldera,to the east is the Kyambura gorge, also has a habituated population of Chimps.

There was barely any traffic in the park too. We soon spotted a land cruiser parked at a distance.All the eyes were on a patch of bush.Realised that they must have spotted something interesting,closed in. Soon could see a lioness fast asleep in a tree !!While her pride were lazing in the bushes.So, finally, here was my encounter with a 'tree climbing' lioness

Watched the pride for quite a while, looks like they had had a mighty meal as they seemed disinterested in the Kobs nor the lone buffalo wallowing just 50 mtrs away.B sundown was back to Tembo.. the following day we were driving towards Fort Portal on the way to Kibale....for a date with the chimps....

inquest

We refuelled at Kasese and drove towards Fort Portal,to our left all along were the mighty Rwenzori mountains or the fabled 'Mountains of the Moon' which straddle Uganda & DRC.My initial plans were to spend a night at a community lodge in the mountains.The area known for its dramatic landscape and spectacular scenery.Frankly, I was a little impatient to get to Kibale and the chimps.

We were in Tea country now, as we neared Fort Portal.Its a bustling town at an altitude 1480m,at the foot hills of the Rwenzori range, has a very salubrious climate.Lunch was at the The Gardens restaurant,set in a colonial building,as the vehicle had developed starting trouble,Howard dropped me off while he went to get the problem fixed.With a chilled beer the Beef curry served with rice was sumptuous.Its a little pricey,worth it as the ambience was beautiful.

I had heard that there was renovations happening at the Primate Lodge.I was sceptical.Its located in the sanctuary, next to the UWA offices,park entrance,was just perfect.Thought I'll give it a skip

The other option I had was the Rweteera Safari Park.Called them up and and the offered me a Banda for $50/n B&B.Its location was excellent,at the entrance of Kibale, the resort is on the rim of a crater lake,Nyabikere.It was most serene,its emerald waters were mesmerising.Birds were aplenty.The Great Blue Turaco,Ross's Turaco,Pelicans,Plantain bird,Flycatchers,Sunbirds. Black-and-White Colobus monkeys in the tree tops.It was a lovely place where I would spend the next 3 nights.

http://www.rweteerasafaripark.com/

progol

Thanks for the response, inquest. I'm absolutely taken by your trip as well as your approach to traveling here, and making decisions about accommodations as you go. You have a far more adventurous spirit than me!

I'm now adding to Uganda to my "someday" list! And maybe we will actually visit - one day! In the meantime, I'm thoroughly enjoying your trip.

Do you post your photos as well? Would love to view them!

CaliNurse

Still "WOW"ed by your great descriptions, Inquest. Love learning new things, and being reminded of the familiar. You have a knack for choosing great lodging, off the beaten path of standard (and far more expensive) recommendations. Sooo glad you did not "abort" this continued report.

Agree, the wildlife sighting in the "official" part of QE was just so-so. Itis the Kazinga Chanel which makes the place a do-not-miss!, and would make it, if people have to decide from em reason between the two big national parks, the choice over Murchison. And now I'm intrigued-- about the animal-filled track you described.
Yes, Fort Portal is a great, typical in the best way, town! Full of life, and red dirt streets! Did you see the Kabaka's round palace up on the hill?
Have you come across, in your Uganda research, the website Diary of a Muzungu, by Charlotte Beauvoisin, an English woman who fell in love with Uganda--its people and culture and physical beauty-- and moved there full time? It would give you an interesting read and may empathetic laughs. muzungubloguganda.com

Again, a huge weebale nyo nyo to you! I hope others researching Uganda--whether on Fodors or via web searches, now or in future-- find this report. a a wealth of wonderful information.

inquest

Yes Progol. Some day would start a photo blog. I've got some some good pics in my DSLR of not only Uganda but of all the countries in Africa I've been to.I admit its sheer laziness.

Cali,I was told that wildlife was decimated during Idi Amin's rule,animals slaughtered for meat, forests cut down. The same anarchy existed in neighbouring DRC,where bush meat is still in great demand.I was also told that Murchisons,about 25 years ago was almost barren,elephants and rhinos wiped out.Slowly, with time the forests are back with conservation efforts,animal population are making a comeback.Conservation efforts in Uganda is relatively nascent as compared to East Africa.

The gorillas too are not safe, Bwindi borders DRC and the Virunga population of the apes often migrate/ cross-over,back and forth.The Govt. forces in DRC are fighting a long battle with the rebels.In fact, the gorillas are surviving in a lawless area. UWA is fighting a tough battle to save these mighty apes and other wildlife, they are doinga great job at that.

Eventually, the $$$ we pay to do the Gorilla/ Chimp trek invariably go to saving them.Through UWA of course.

Yes of course I did come across Diary of a Muzungu while I was researching on Uganda before the trip. Very interesting and inspiring. Helped me a lot for my planning.

The Tooro Palace, beautiful, with a 360 deg view. The best property in town.

Back to Rweteera lodge.The Banda had two large queen beds,didn't see the logic,hardly any space to walk around.Behind these two large beds was a low wall built which was an open shower, a wc and a basin.Room itself was cramped,unless you lie in bed all the time.A couple of steps from the banda your on the lawn.Funnily designed.If it rains ( which it regularly did), you get back into the room.The lawns were manicured and well kept. The lawns over looking the lake had lazy camping twin tents, the ablution block was about 25 mtrs away.Didn't particularly like the distribution of the tents. Privacy, for the occupants was compromised. I'd have to walk past the tents to reach my Banda.Fortunately, I was the only resident in the whole resort, form 3 nights...My lugguage tucked in the Banda decided to get back to Fort Portal for dinner...the Forest Bar..

inquest

For over 10 day of having been cut away from urban existence,' The Forest bar' in Fort Portal, was a welcome relief.An eclectic place.It had a dance floor with a DJ belting out hip African rock. Cocktails being dished out from the bar counters,beer flowing from the taps.Young men and women gathered around tables chatting away,over the din of the speakers.Dressed to impress,gals with short(not sweet) skimpy outfits and boys,nattily dressed often button-downs.

Colourful lights set the mood,the greenery around was abundant too.Sofas line the walls if you’d rather people-watch.
A live band,soon after kicked off, energizing the ambience,large screens telecast live soccer match.Al fresco dining in a designated area for a primal cooking.. with meat on the spit, the aroma of marinated lamb,chicken kabab,spiced pork being grilled.'Rolex' too was on the menu.A wood fired oven was churning out pizza at amazing speed.The fare was very reasonable.A beer or a shot of whiskey was under UGX 6000 i.e around $2.A splurge here wouldn't probably cost anyone more than U$D 10-15 !!

A couple of stiff Bourbons(it was good old Jack), the roast pork seem irresistible,finished it off with a double Rolex.A 45 min drive back to Rweteera.Done for the night...

inquest

Will be out of town for a few days.Should be completed on arrival.

inquest

The chimp tracking was the following morning at the Np UWA offices at Kibale at 7am. As the day dawned,breakfast was served,in the morning sun and a panoramic view by the lake.A couple of sunbirds were flitting around the hibiscus sipping nectar.The woodland kingfisher perched on a branch all set to dive after the fish below.A couple of noisy Plantain Eaters were grooming themselves.I was pepped up thinking about the trek,while I re-checked the camera equipment.I noticed Howard frantically trying to fix something in the vehicle.

Curious, I walked up to enquire,when he told me the batteries were dead and it wouldn't start.Panic.I has to be at the park hq at 7am for the briefing.He was trying all possible options.Howard is from Bigodi a town on the other side of Kibale. He called a friend for help.I was getting restless.I soon spotted a bike parked near by.On enquiry, it happened to belong to the chef.Said, 'this is it'. Got behind the chef and were off,riding towards Kibale on his Chinese made two-wheeler.Hoping against hope it wouldn't conk.Racing at its max speed of 35kmph, the noise the machine made would seem to someone,that,it was travelling at the 'speed of sound'.Clinging on to dear life,managed to reach just in time. But the briefing was over...'never mind' said the lady tracker.As she briefed me,about the dos and don'ts while we walked along the tarmac road before we entered the forest....

inquest

Chimp trek/tracking is relatively a 'walk in the park' as compared to the Gorilla tracking.The forest is not as dense. Its penetrable.These intelligent apes nest in the trees.Each group consists of over a 100 individuals.They split into smaller bands to forage.The have their favourite trees,leaves and fruit,grubs and ants,depending on the season.The walk was along a well trodden path,about 30 mins,when we met up with a another group of ape seekers.All of them surrounding two chimps,just a few feet from them,astonishingly close to them.While one chimp lay on its back the other was grooming him. Very human.Absolutely nonchalant and unconcerned of our presence,the weird humans staring at them. In fact they made great photo ops.In all, we were following a group of close to 40 chimps.

There were playful youngsters,agile and nimble,walking on knuckles they were amazingly fast to follow.In a flash they would be up the tree 60ft high.Brilliant trapeze artists,their acrobatics is mind numbing.At staggering heights they would sway from tree to tree with absolute grace.

The only missing link was Tarzan,no where to be found

Soooo true are the visual description in the comic strips of Edgar Rice Burroughs,the forests of Kibale brings back fond memories of childhood.The fantasies built around the dark forests a handsome apeman with a six-pack, swinging on the vines with grace.Tarzan,a well known fact,was of British descent,son of a British Lord and Lady,was eventually referred to as Lord Greystoke....and for sure an American in the picture came in the form of Jane (Porter) who fell in Love with this bronze 'Adonis'.In fact it was Jane who was suppose to have taught Tarzan 'English',an American accent I guess.The other theory is Tarzan taught himself English from a book and the fact that he had not heard human speech before he learned to read is a bit intriguing.Never mind,this is how tales are spun and meant to be everlasting,in mist of time.

That's another story..back to these apes,so gentle and caring with the little ones,the bonding,social grooming,loud frequent vocalisation,the 2 hours spent following them was fascinating.I absolutely recommend it !!

Back to the HQ where Howard was waiting for me,profusely apologising for what had transpired.Made me a hot cup of tea and proceeded towards Bigodi... for the the swamps and birding

CaliNurse

Thanks for continuing this Inquest after your return from out-of-town!
Eagerly following and hugely enjoying!
Love the description of the Fort Portal Bar/. There's nothing quite like a local African bar- (I'll bet you agree) learned from long-ago experience.
Interesting about Tarzan I just assume it was entirely fictitious but will now research more to read about the possible real connections!

Look forward to your report of Bigodi. In one of your earlier posts, i'd mentioned a friend named Ivan Kaganzi who is one of the guides at Bigodi, and started an orphanage in the village there. Walnut be surprised if Howard knows him

inquest

There was a new restaurant in Bigodi town.Its called the Bee Hive- Bistro & Bar. A great place to hangout.It on the edge of town by the road,overlooking the Kibale forest and the Swamps to the left.Driving into Bigodi from Kibale,you can't miss it.Painted bright Yellow Ochre and the highlights are dark chocolate.

Its a great place to hangout. Breakfast,Lunch & dinner is served.
The restaurant on the ground floor has a pool table,an open kitchen and the bar counter and a couple of tables.Up a wooden staircase,an upper floor,open on three sides and with a fantastic view,where the food is also served.Howard introduced me to a very friendly young man,who was the manager,along with a couple of young enthusiastic girls,ran the show,before he was off to fix the vehicle again.He said he'd be back in a hour's time.

Upstairs,in no time my chilled lager was out,spent about 2 hrs on the net and my phone. Lunch was Karo with goat curry.They were bewildered when I asked for it,claiming its purely a local dish and it was not normal for travellers even asking for it.They were curious. How on earth would I even consume it.When I rolled the Millet dough into a small lump,dipped it into the curry and swallowed it whole,their jaw dropped !!
By now I was familiar,as I have also described in my earlier post,Karo and the reference to the South Indian Ragi Ball Curry.Local flavour has always been my consuming passion.Even though I know,not everything is palatable,I'm not averse to trying new dishes.

Post lunch,Howard arrived with his brother Hillary,said he was an authority on birding,probably knew more than himself.He too had recording of over 300 bird calls recordings on his mobile.He too had bluetooth speakers through which would entice birds.

We drove through town,into mud track towards his fields.By 3 pm we entered the swamp onto a boardwalk,.It was very humid.Verdant vegetation,the tall papyrus reed towered over us,wild Palms,Polita Fig Trees,there where primates such as Red Colobus Monkeys, Gray Cheeked Mangabey’s, L’Hoest Monkeys, Vervet Monkeys, Blue Monkeys, Baboons, Black and White Colobus, Red Colobus, plenty of birds.The swamps are best known for being home to the Great Blue Turaco, many varieties of birds such as Papyrus Gonoleks, Hornbills,Sun birds, Waxbills, Weavers,White-winged Warblers,Bishop birds,
Cuckoos,Kingfishers, Flycatchers Plantain Eaters were practically everywhere.The list was endless.Brilliant experience in this completely awesome eco-system.

Sundowner was back at the Bee Hive.Jack Daniel's was inviting.
Sunset over the forests.Darkness fell....Decided dinner would be here as we had not placed orders at Rweteera,drove back by 10pm..too exhausted..

CaliNurse

MORE great information!! MORE great memories!! BIgodi Swamp boardwalk, etc. Incidentally, note my typo above: "Walnut" should be "wouldn't" as in wouldnt be surprised if Howard and other locals know my friend Ivan Kaganzi. Bigodi area also has a few local crafts shops with beautiful woven baskets, etc.
The Bee Hive sounds fantastic!!

inquest

One can easily spend a day or two in Bigodi.Bee Hive too are planning cottages on their property,not sure when. Bigodi town is soon set to become the base for Chimp trekking in Kibale,it already is,to some extent.The major source of revenue being tourism.There a few resorts.The Chimp's Nest borders the Magombe swamps.Nature lodge's Kibale forest camp.Another place I dropped in to check was Tinka's Home Stay,close to the swamp. I didn't get to meet Tinka the owner.He is into community service and has opened his home to visitors,who can stay with his family also experiencing the 'local' way of life, food & culture.One can get involved in the chores of daily life with the family.Very reasonable, the accommodation is a couple of ensuite rooms in the house with double beds.Guess it could host about 6 pax.

Most of the good resorts,with stunning settings are on the western border of the Kibale Forest,towards Fort Portal.Like Rweetera some of the resorts are on the crater lakes or on hillocks overlooking the collapsed crater waterbodies.

Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve & Community Campsite.

http://www.nkuruba.com/home.html


Nyinabulitwa Country Resort & Safari Camp Kamwenge

http://www.nyinabulitwaresort.com/

Creater Safari Lodge

http://www.crystallodgesuganda.com/

Ndali Lodge

http://www.ndalilodge.com/

Kyaninga Lodge

https://www.kyaningalodge.com/

Isunga Lodge (stunning view )

https://www.facebook.com/Isunga-Lodge-919942884684970/

At dawn,had breakfast by the lake,packed the bags and loaded it unto the vehicle.It would be a long drive to Kampala.Time had come to leave Uganda,an astoundingly beautiful country, with fond memories.A round of golf in Entebbe was a fitting end to such a wonderful holiday.

Finally, thank you all for some great advise,without which I wouldn't have been as prepared.For enduring my TR and for encouraging all the way.Specially Cali.

CaliNurse

Golf in Entebbe--what a lovely farewell activity, although I wish it weren't over! It's been a great read: not only a marvelous reminder of Uganda's wonders, but filled with excellent ideas. Thanks for giving specific names and web links of lodging and eateries, as well as vivid, evocative descriptions of where you visited.
Btw, I stayed at Kyaninga Lodge back in 2012. Stunning setting and architecture, loads to admire 9what a project for the owner!) but for some reason, it just didnt leave me with that "warm" feeling.
Anyone doing a web search on Fodors or otherwise for Uganda who finds this report will find much valuable information.