Aloha from Mala Mala!

Old Oct 5th, 2007, 03:27 AM
  #41  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
my complaint about MM game drives are the fact that our requests were not met. all the drives seemed to center on sleeping lions, leopards and buffalo and when one of the other guides spotted them, then all the other guides rushed to the same sighting. Other than the first drive where we saw the dogs, and the last drive where the buffalo were not to be seen, every drive seemed the same. 30 minutes watching buffalo, 30 minutes watching sleeping lions, 1 hour searching for leopard, then another 30 minutes watching sleeping lions, then rush back to camp. Even the man in our vehicle with the big camera said there is only so many pictures you need of the same lions asleep.

We asked (the 4 in our cruiser) on the last night if we could focus on finding some nocturnal animals and skipping the lions and leopards. Our guide said o.k. but when it got dark and he got a radio call we SPED to find a leopard and for the next hour we searched and searched speeding through the bush NOT looking for genet, civets etc.

One woman in our cruiser asked to stop and see the elephants (which were just across the river) and our guide said we have to get to the lion before the light goes. So off we go to the same lion, still sleeping until the sun went down and then of course the elephants were gone.

There was TOO much focus on the Big 5 (we actually got a certificate saying we saw them) but we as a group wanted to see more.

Other than that the food was just o.k. but the camp and property is beautiful, but do you really need his and her toilets? (we had the handicapped suite so we actually had 3 toilets, 2 showers and a bathtub.

I'm not knocking the game at MM, the dogs and leopard were exciting to see but we saw much more varieties driving through Kruger.

Oh, my bar bill came to $60.00 and they do make quite a profit on sodas. They charged R10 for a 7 ounce can and in Kruger and the shops in Hazyview and Phalaborwa charged R7 for a 12 ounce can.

Anyway, I'm roasting alive in Dubai (107) and off to Hong Kong tomorrow.
More to come in my trip report.
Aloha!
matnikstym is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 06:30 AM
  #42  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Dennis,

Remember to pick up the pistacho stuffed dates i told you about and did you already fly Emirates? hope you liked it.

Hari
HariS is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 07:05 AM
  #43  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Pistachio stuffed dates... mmmmmmm.

Have a safe journey home, Dennis!
Patty is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 07:16 AM
  #44  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My thoughts on Mala Mala:

- the food was passable given the cost
- the camp reminded me of a 1980s British holiday camp. It's far too big and impersonal.

- the game drives certainly DID ignore all the smaller things. This I can take when there's lots of big game around but when the drives are quiet (which most of mine were apart). I thought it was very much aimed at the 'My First Visit to Africa' crowd. If I hadn't have know better I would have not gone home with any knowledge of birds or smaller mammals.

- the so-called tracker in the back is no such thing. A spotter yes, tracker no. Not once did my ranger\tracker dismount to track on foot in complete contrast to the other camps I stopped at. I was amazed to be honest.

- the bloody headset my ranger wore seemed to prevent him communicating well with the vehicle. We were never told we were off to see lions\leopards etc. I knew because I'd heard Ingwe\Ngala - the only idea other guests would have had was that we were driving faster. Indeed when one guest asked the tracker what we were searching for (after numerous u-turns and driving up and down the same road) he said he didn't know. He obviously did because I knew we we searching for a leopard that had been seen - he and the ranger had been shouting to one another about for the previous ten minutes.

- while I was there the camp seemd to have a very low occupancy (Main Camp only sent out three vehicles on quite a few occasions) which on a property Mala Mala's size isn't much. Given the adversion to real tracking I'm surprised they ever find any leopards! That they do says something for the density in Sabi Sands. With a CC Africa tracking model I'm sure they'd get more viewing on a consistent basis.

- alot of the rangers seemed to be 'passing through'. I got the impression it was a sort of job rich middle class white boys did for a year or so before moving onto a proper job. One ranger was only just twenty...I was amazed at this before one of the managers explained.

- the manager explained (and this was to a "Do any trackers become rangers?") that the ranger is first and foremost a host and raconteur and has to be able to converse with guests about such subjects as investment opportunities in South Africa etc. I guess most black South Africans don't fit into this category. Oddly, I myself actually want my ranger to have experience and a love of the bush, not some public schooling. The odd thing was the guy who told me this (and who considered himself a raconteur) was actually the most self-centred and boring man I have ever met.

- the 'walk' was disappointing to say the least and to me highlighted the lack of confidence that Mala Mala has in it's rangers on foot. YOu're driven to an area they're pretty sure there are no large animals, you have a vehicle scouting in front and one behind, two armed rangers and then to cap it all you walk along a road for 10-15 minutes!

- all in all if the game viewing had been fantastic (it wasn't any better than the other camps I went to - that's not to say it was really bad, there were some interesting interactions although most of them took place at night) I could live with some of the above but it unfortunately wasn't

- the ranger himself was a nice guy and he DID know his birds, plants and smaller animals but it had to be specifically asked about...I put it down to training and what the rangers are told to deliver. Compared to other camps it seemed very dated.
Tanky is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 07:49 AM
  #45  
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
How do others feel about Tanky's views on Mala Mala? I'm just concerned as I'm about to book (on Monday) a Mala Mala/Mashatu combination. I've done safaris before but I'm taking a friend who has never done this and I wanted to take her somewhere first where the game viewing would be good and the surroundings comfortable. I'm not sure I have the energy to start looking at a new itinerary but I'm concerned by the comments here.

If I cancel Mala Mala, I'd appreciate some views on what I could combine with Mashatu where the transfers won't be too onerous (we're flying between the two as time is limited).
Lynneb is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 08:05 AM
  #46  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is the first time (in the admittedly short several months I've been coming to the board) that I've seen negative comments about MM and the game drive experience there. I'm leaving on Oct 18 for 2 weeks, with 3 days at MM at the end of the trip. I'm interested in getting variety of species and sightings as much as anything else.

How many guests do they typically put in a vehicle? If there are relatively few guests, will they send out fewer vehcles, each packed to the max, or spread people more thinly into more vehicles?

If the guests in a vehicle are all in general agreement, to what extent can we set the agenda as to where the ranger takes us and what we look for?

Are night drives possible for nocturnal sightings? If so, do they cost additional? Or do they substitute for a day drive? Are they limited in number?

Thanks

rickmck
rickmck is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 09:17 AM
  #47  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Lynneb,
I'm in the same position. I need to send a deposit to confirm out days at Mala Mala next summer and I'm getting "buyers remorse" I think.
The cost of Mala Mala is a real stretch for me but I've heard so many wonderful things I figured it will be worth it.
We are doing Mashatu for 5 nites and then Pafuri in northern Kruger for 3. Then on to Mala Mala for 5.
Now I'm not so sure if it will be $ well spent. Any other bright ideas out there???? Am I worrying about nothing?
Thanks!
And if this is hi jacking of a thread I'll be glad to start a new one.
Lillipets is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 09:29 AM
  #48  
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Do a search on Mala Mala...the positives outweigh the negatives. My wife and I will be there in 2 weeks and I am not doubting my choice at all. From a friend who has experienced Mala Mala to all the posters on Fodors.

Also why is it wrong for a camp to cater to first timers to Africa? My wife and I do not have 3-4 weeks to spend looking for small animals. I want to see the big 5 and I have no issues with that at all. If you have specific requests there are camps that will do that for you.
scootr29 is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 09:48 AM
  #49  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have spent more than a year reading this forum now and this is the first time that I have felt the need to respond to a post. After so many very experienced travellers and safari goers have written so much about the outstanding game viewing and overall experience at Mala Mala, does it not seem strange that people are getting jittery over 2 posts from people who have visited once?

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but perhaps a more balanced view would be achieved by looking at ALL of the threads devoted to Mala Mala rather than 2 comments on one thread.

Yes, I have been there many times, as well as to many other camps across Africa, including many CCA camps and also Botswana. It sounds as if Tanky was particularly unlucky with his game viewing during his stay, which although unfortunate and disappointing, can happen anywhere - even the legendary Mala Mala! I would however like to know which 1980's British holiday camp he stayed in that resembled Mala Mala. I will make a reservation straight away. Whilst I don't doubt his experience, be assured that it bears no resemblance to any visit that I have ever had there, especially rangers and trackers not getting off the vehicle to track! The day Mala Mala follows the CCA model will be the day that I stop visiting. I have had several bad experiences of poor guides and packed vehicles at CCA camps, but I accept that I may have been unlucky as others have enjoyed their stays.

Finally to answer the question about numbers on vehicles and night drives: No, the vehicles will not be packed. There will be a maximum of 6 people in a vehicle and often less. Night drives happen every evening after dark as an extension of your afternoon game drive and no, you don't pay extra for them or miss out on anything else.

Mala Mala is not a zoo, so there can never be guarantees, but it has consistently provided me with the best game viewing and overall experience of all of the camps that I have visited in Africa. It's a shame that Tanky did not have a better experience; I know how disappointing that can be when someone has high expectations of a place. Dennis still sounds to have had reasonable game viewing despite the parts of his stay with which he was unhappy.

It is only an opinion, but I would not hesitate to recommend to anyone.

nickcard is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 11:29 AM
  #50  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Excuse but where did I say I was 'unlucky' with game viewing? I'm perfectly aware these places aren't zoos. I had quiet game drives at other camps too. I don't have an issue with that at any reserve - I half expect at least a 1/3 of drives to be quiet. But the other camps made up for it. Mala Mala didn't.

It's the camp itself and the whole guiding experience I was disappointed with. The camp immediately reminded me of a 1980s British holiday camp...wide boulevards, loads of bright lights, three star rooms, two start food, communal buffet eating facilities (I dread to think what that would have been like if the camp had even been half full) etc I was half expecting Cannon and Ball to come on and do a turn.

Even comparing their guiding\tracking with the CC Africa model is quite laughable from what I saw. Dennis - did your tracker\guide get out of the vehicle and track? I mean properly track, not just get out the vehicle and have a quick look round (although mine never did this either).

There is simply no comparison with the CCA model...there is another thread where it is stated most rangers at Mala Mala only stop two years before moving on. How do they become experienced? It seems it more of a gap-year thing to do than a career for most of them. Says it all for me.

Could I have had a bad ranger (although he wasn't bad at all...just the way he appeared to have been trained to operate and Dennis's experiences seem to confirm this)? Yes. Could you have had a bad CC Africa ranger? Yes. Although your 'several bad experiences' raises eyebrows especially as it's your first ever post.

You use the phrase legendary Mala Mala. That's the problem with the place. They believe their own propaganda. They've rested on their laurels. There certainly quick and fast with the 'best game viewing\reserve\lodge' in Africa comments.

Mala Mala certainly isn't legendary amongst some of the experienced South African guests I met at other camps (this was before I got to Mala Mala). At the time I wasn't sure what they were getting at. Now I am.

I have been to camps in Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa. Mala Mala is the very first one I've been to where I wouldn't go back. Not unless it seriously modernises itself.

I understand I've had the temerity to criticise Mala Mala on Fodors...however, I can only tell like it was.

On the other hand the posters that are fretting about going there...please don't. I'm sure you'll have a great time, especially if you've never been to Africa before.

Tanky is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 12:09 PM
  #51  
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Dennis,
I am green with envy over the dog pack. That must have been amazing, following a pack of 22. Three lionesses and 9 cubs is also a wonderful sighting. I can't wait for the photos!

Dana
Dana_M is offline  
Old Oct 5th, 2007, 09:56 PM
  #52  
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am not going to comment on the negative experiences at MM, as I have certainly never had any - some painful fellow guests, for sure, but hardly MM's fault!

I have only been going to MM for 6 years, but I go 2 times a year, and now I am staying around 25 nights each time. I no longer go elsewhere even though I have been to quite a few other camps in the Sabi Sands, as well as Botswana, Kenya, Tanzania and Zimbabwe.

I love the gameviewing and the knowledge that the rangers have, or in the case of new rangers, that they will find out for me, as I am not a first timer, I wish to know a lot of history etc of the cats especially, and if the ranger doesn't know, then he finds out for me. I am not a big 5 person, and the only time we are racing around after the Big 5, is when guests request it! I have got some of the best bird, reptile and night animal photos at MM.

I have always had the tracker track animals, they have the most amazing skills and the ranger/tracker team have absolutely nothing to learn from CCA, in my experience at MalaMala. I have also had a dreadful experience at a CCA camp, made more so that I had a deposit down to return in 6 months, but after airing my problems, I decided to return and everything was so much better, the camp and the ranger/tracker.

No-one mentions any ranger's names, but each trip I have 4 different rangers, and quite frankly, I have really liked them all - when it is just me in the vehicle, we have done exactly what I want, but when others are in the vehicle, we usually vote to what we look for or go and see.

I am an obsessive and passionate gameviewer, and I know that fellow guests can drive me crazy with not wanting to sit and look at anything for more than 5 minutes or finding a sighting too boring and wanting to move on, but that is the way it works when not paying for a private gamevehicle. I am very difficult to please, as I don't want the big 5 shoved down my throat all day and my ranger knows this and whenever possible, we look at things, so that I can say at the end of so many days, "I haven't seen that before!" Often I also do not realize how lucky I am until I am home looking through the photos, as things at the beginning of the trip are overshadowed by things I see later, until I get home and view everything together. By no means, do I expect sighting after sighting, the beauty of gameviewing is finding something that we (no, not me really but my ranger/tracker team) track down.

I really don't want to overly comment on other matter, room and meals, as they are not that important to me, other than I am comfortable and that I am fed! If I was after fabulous food and accomodation, I would be staying a lot closer to home, I would not need to fly half way round the world!

Kind regards

Kaye
KayeN is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 02:40 AM
  #53  
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nick

I agree that most of the reports on mala mala have previously been positive (that is one of the reasons I chose it) but as these two posts are recent it raises a concern that something might have changed regarding the approach to game drives. (I'm trying to ignore the holiday camp reference but it is a bit scary!)
As rickmck asks - how much influence can we have on our game drives?
Lynneb is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 03:44 AM
  #54  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
KayeN,
Thanks for your comments. I feel better now. I don't care about the food or the rooms. I just want to see wildlife. One of Dennis's comments made it sound like the guests don't have much influence on what they get to see. I understand the dynamics of everyone voting to see if you stay at a sighting or move on, but then the ranger should honor that!
Like I said, I think I'm having an attack of "buyer's remorse" because Mala Mala is so much more expensive and it has pretty much blown my budget out the window! I just have to remind myself that when I saw the mountain gorillas in 2003 it was probably the most expensive 2 hours I've ever spent anywhere and it was worth every penny!
Lillipets is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 04:04 AM
  #55  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have been to Mala Mala 3 x now and feel that the game viewing is better or as good as in other reserves in the Sabi sands and in smaller lodges. I also found the rangers not to be of such a high standard at Mala Mala and the game drives very driven by the big 5 must be seen every day so everyone could get a cert! We went back and again because of all the good reviews as we felt we must just be having a bad ranger. Very over rated.
kimac is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 05:54 AM
  #56  
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Lillipets

For me and my experiences at MM, it is well worth the money! The only times I haven't had a choice in my gameviewing, is when other guests influence the ranger, certainly not the ranger choosing what is seen!

The sighting that always comes to mind, is a rock python that strangled a steenbok, and after resting and moving the body, began to get ready to begin to eat, when guests said to move on as the sighting was quite boring! In that instance, I felt the ranger had no choice but to move on.

Hi Lynneb,

Even though I have never been to an english holiday camp, I find this comment a bit bizarre. There is nothing at any MM camp, that is vaguely similar to an english camp!

Guests do have a choice in what they see, and as mentioned, it is other guests that have ruined sightings, not the ranger! Certainly, on certain sightings, and I am thinking of the wild dogs, we have had a time limit, maybe 20 mins, and then the ranger has suggested we move on so as others can view, and that is fine with me, but if I really insisted I wanted to stay, then that would also have been permitted!

Kind regards

Kaye
KayeN is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 07:00 AM
  #57  
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
At MM, and other camps, there will be increasing pressure on game drives to see the big 5. This is because safaris are becoming more popular. And many of these "newby" guests have never bothered to watch a wildlife program on the Geographic channel. And, many of these newbies are newlyweds/honeymooners that are going on safari simply because a TA suggested it and it sounds exotic. In fact, a manager at MM told me this is what he is seeing now in guest demographics

Does this remind you of the thread I started on 6/20/2007 "An Open Suggestion to Safari Operators" ? http://tinyurl.com/26lkkd

Get used to it my friends. At least at well known camps like MM.

regards - tom
cary999 is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 07:58 AM
  #58  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've just got back from MM (we were upgraded to Rattrays) Little Mombo and Kings Pool. My trip report will include some detail on camps, rangers, sightings etc. After the trip I still love MM even more than Mombo which is beautiful.

As to Tanky's comments, I'm sure we can all make negative comments about any camp we have been to. But on balance I would add up all the positive statements made here and compare them to the negative.

As to tracking, on many occasions it is not that necessary for trackers to get out of the vehicle and disappear for a long time, but when needed it is done. The road networks in MM mean that two vehicles working together can often locate a Leopard without a lot of on foot tracking.
Does MM have an issue with ranger turnover, certainly they lost two very experienced rangers who had a huge amount of experience and yes it is a bit of a gap year type job. But the rangers are well trained and educated and do a very good job. Most of their guests will visit once and once only, when we visit we actually teach the ranger a lot about the individual animal histories, they appreciate the depth of knowledge we bring.
After having done this kind of trip 12 times, I am more than ever convinced by this trip, that you need to travel with like minded people, and get your own vehicle, otherwise you will be disappointed.
We travel with a couple we met at MM, years ago and have become great friends. We all want the same things from a game drive. They loved Little Mombo because we had the camp to ourselves, it was perfect. Then at Kings Pool we had private dinners for three nights so we wouldn't have to sit through dinner with the kind of people who seem to visit premier camps. More on this in my trip report.

napamatt is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 08:16 AM
  #59  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Dennis you dog!

Tom - $40 for soda, I'm glad I'm not supporting your "coke" habit. I'm sure you're happy not to support my $400 wine bill.
napamatt is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2007, 08:19 AM
  #60  
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Napamatt-

Thank you for you reply as we leave in a week for nearly the exact camps, Mombo versus Little. Any other suggestions you can send to me would be appreciated. Many of your other comments on various sites have been helpful. I am slso going to Durban and a smaller camp in that region and no one has comments on Durban activities.

I look forward to your report, any chance of that happening before October 14???

ShellCat
ShellCat is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -