A shiny brass espresso machine is the only modern touch at this old-fashioned eatery that first flung open its doors in 1937. The fancifully painted woodwork on the doors and along the ceiling and the honey-color baby grand conjure up the Old Country. Rösti (grated potatoes with bacon and cheese) and five kinds fondue, including a tasty version with ripe tomatoes, are among the traditional choices, but you may want to fast-forward to dessert, as the glass case is filled with eye-popping pies and pastries. You can also do as the locals do and buy a few crusty rolls and sit outside in Parque Miraflores.
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