Of the dozens of chifas in Chinatown, none comes close to Wa Lok. Attention to the smallest detail makes every meal memorable; kun pou kay tien -- bits of chicken stir-fried with asparagus and yellow peppers -- arrives garnished with an impossibly elaborate hibiscus flower carved from a carrot. Vegetarians won't have a problem here, as more than 30 dishes are made without meat. No matter what you order, do as the locals do and enjoy it with a glass of chartreuse-colored Inca Cola. If the dining room is full, don't fret; there's another branch in Miraflores.
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