Filled with a dozen or so marble-topped tables, this charming old-fashioned café is a block north of Parque Municipal. The constant stream of Limeños informs you that the food is first-rate. Share a few humitas, steamed tamales that you season with pickled onions or bright yellow hot sauce. The best are those stuffed with chicken, onions, and green corn. If the floor's pinwheel design doesn't put you off balance, then the spinning dessert display certainly will. Try the mazamorra morada, a sweet pudding of cornmeal and candied fruit.
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