Side Trips from Rio Restaurants

The food here is nothing if not eclectic. Expect to find sushi bars, Italian restaurants, and German biergartens sitting alongside restaurants selling typical Brazilian cuisine. Coastal towns serve a large selection of fresh seafood, and most have a local specialty that's worth trying. Beachfront restaurants, especially the ubiquitous baracas (kiosks), can be a pleasant surprise and most will bring food and drink right up to your chosen spot on the sands.

Paraty and Búzios have excellent restaurants serving international cuisine. During high season they fill up beginning at 10 pm and may not close until after sunrise. Restaurants in Petrópolis and Teresópolis serve European cuisine and comida mineira, the hearty, meaty fare from Minas Gerais. Generally, dinner starts at seven and restaurants close around midnight.

To be on the safe side, don't buy seafood from venders strolling along the beach. Be especially careful about the oysters in Búzios and Cabo Frio, which may not be as fresh as the vendor claims.

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  • 1. Trutas do Rocio

    $$ | Rocio

    It's off the beaten track—ask a local for directions—and only open on weekends, but this rustic, riverside restaurant is really something special. "Trutas" means trout and that's what you'll find on the menu—trout, trout, and more trout served fresh from the river in many imaginative ways: as appetizers mashed into a pâté or baked in cassava-dough pastry, and as entrées grilled or cooked with a choice of almond, mustard, or orange sauce. The restaurant seats only 22, so reservations are a must. On sunny afternoons, the food is served alfresco.

    Estrada da Vargem Grande 6333, Petrópolis, Rio de Janeiro, 25725–620, Brazil
    24-2291–5623

    Known For

    • Reservations only
    • Atmopsheric alfresco setting
    • Unique riverside location

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.--Thurs.; no dinner., Reservations essential
  • 2. Belli Belli Gastrobar

    $$ | Manguinhos

    Owner Alfredo and chef Roque welcome locals like old friends at this great-value gastro-bar, which specializes in high-class cocktails and tasty tapas. With a beautiful view over Manguinhos beach, it's one of the best spots in town to catch the sunset and stay for a relaxed dinner.

    Av. Jose Bento Ribeiro Dantas 2900, Búzios, Rio de Janeiro, 28950-000, Brazil
    22-99611--6590

    Known For

    • Jambu (guava) croquettes
    • Tropical sangria
    • Grilled octopus

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 3. Estancia Don Juan

    $$ | Centro

    Take a walk through the center of Búzios and you might think you’ve suddenly landed in Argentina thanks to the large number of Spanish speakers who have adopted Búzios as their home. Of all the parillas serving Argentina's traditional barbecued steak, Don Juan is easily the best as its perfectly grilled cuts of prime beef can be washed down with a glass of Malbec from the well-stocked cellar while you take in a live tango show.

    Rua das Pedras 178, Búzios, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
    22-2623–2169

    Known For

    • Succulent 'bife de chorizo'
    • Well-stocked wine cellar
    • Live tango shows
  • 4. Jardin

    $$ | Abraão

    When you finally tire of eating grilled fish and rich moqueca stews, head to this contemporary dinner-only spot that specializes in fresh salads and vegetarian options crafted from locally sourced ingredients, alongside the more innovative daily fish dishes and hamburgers. The cozy, home-like setting—just three tables set on a veranda that's a 15-minute walk into the forest from Praia da Júlia—gives diners the chance to connect with Ilha Grande's natural beauty; a guided walk along the trails each way is included in dinner.

    Caminho de Palmas, Casa 3, Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro, 23968-000, Brazil
    24-99914--7738

    Known For

    • The jungle-like setting it apart from Ilha Grande's other dining options
    • Sweet potato fries
    • Generous salads

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
  • 5. Lua e Mar

    $$ | Abraão

    Expect fresh, well-prepared seafood and weekly live music during high season at this longtime favorite, which is often cited as the best restaurant in the village of Abraão. Stroll straight from the beach still wearing your Havaianas to try Dona Cidinha's specialty, fish with half-ripe bananas, or the famous moqueca , which many islanders claim is the best in Rio de Janeiro State.

    Praia do Canto, Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro, 23968-000, Brazil
    24-3361–5113

    Known For

    • Beachfront location
    • Baked fish with banana
    • Generous portion

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed., Credit cards accepted
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  • 6. O Pescador

    $$ | Abraão

    Inside the pousada of the same name, this restaurant serves local seafood prepared using Italian cooking techniques. After dark, you can dine alfresco on the beach by candlelight, or just pop in for a cocktail and nibbles from the bar.

    Rua da Praia 647, Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro, 23968–000, Brazil
    24-3361–5114

    Known For

    • Seafood risotto
    • Fresh grilled fish (types vary according to season) bought directly from local fishermen
    • Romantic atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 7. Pizza na Praça

    $$ | Abraão

    On the flagstones of Ilha Grande's main square, this simple restaurant serves up more than four dozen types of pies, from simple margheritas to exotic seafood combinations or dessert pies; salads and other dishes are available at lunchtime. This is a great spot for evening meals on Friday and Saturday nights, when live bands play in the square.

    Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro, 23968–000, Brazil
    24-3361–9566

    Known For

    • Great people watching
    • Healthy pizza options
    • Lively atmopshere on the weekends

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