Sports in Buenos Aires

Get Your Kicks

Tens of thousands of ecstatic fans jump up and down in unison, roaring modified cumbia classics to the beat of carnival drums; crazed supporters sway atop 10-foot fences between the stands and the field as they drape the barbed wire with their team's flags; showers of confetti and sulfurous smoke from colorful flares fill the air. The occasion? Just another day's fútbol (soccer) match in Argentina.

Matches are held year-round and are seriously exciting—and sometimes dangerous. You're safest in the platea (preferred seating area), which cost 150 to 450 pesos depending on location and the importance of the match, rather than in the chaotic 80-peso popular (standing room) section. Be careful what you wear—fans carry their colors with pride, and not just on flags and team shirts. Expect to see painted faces, hundreds of tattoos, and even women's underwear with the colors of the best-known teams: Boca Juniors (blue and gold) and their archrivals River Plate (red and white), as well as Independiente (red), Racing (light blue and white), and San Lorenzo (red and blue).

You can buy tickets at long lines at the stadiums up to four days before matches or online through Tangol (11/4312–7276 www.tangol.com). Though pricey, the company’s packages include well-located seats, transportation both ways, and a soccer-loving guide. Expect to pay more to see the most popular teams.

Estadio Boca Juniors. Walls exploding with huge, vibrant murals of insurgent workers, famous inhabitants of La Boca, and fútbol greats splashed in blue and gold let you know that the Estadio Boca Juniors is at hand. The stadium that's also known as La Bombonera (meaning candy box, supposedly because the fans' singing reverberates as it would inside a candy tin) is the home of Argentina's most popular club. The extensive stadium tour is worth the extra money. Lighthearted guides take you all over the stands as well as to press boxes, locker rooms, underground tunnels, and the emerald grass of the field itself. Brandsen 805, at del Valle Iberlucea, La Boca, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1161AAQ. 11/4309–4700; www.museoboquense.com. 80 pesos. Daily 11–5.

Horse Around

Combine the horsey inclinations of Argentina's landed elite with the country's general sporting prowess, and what do you get? The world's best polo players. The game may be as posh as it gets, but local sports fans take pride in the stunning athletic showmanship.

Campo Argentino de Polo. Major polo tournaments take place at the Campo Argentino de Polo, run by the Asociación Argentina de Polo (Argentine Polo Association). Admission to autumn (March to May) and spring (September to December) matches is free. The much-heralded Campeonato Argentino Abierto (Argentine Open Championship) takes place in November; admission to the whole championship starts at about 500 pesos. You can buy tickets online in advance or at the polo field on the day of the event. Av. del Libertador 4300, at Dorrego, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1426BWN. 11/4777–6444; www.aapolo.com.