This throwback goes back to the days when the most exotic, ethnic restaurant in most towns was a family-owned Italian spot. This is that kind of place, but contemporized and more upscale, with fresh, top-quality ingredients, simple yet elegant sauces, and waiters who know and care about the food they serve. Owned by a talented, charismatic Philadelphia family, the restaurant has a convivial spirit, and its innovative pairings and plate presentations are au courant. Locals file in for the early-dining menu, which includes three courses and a glass of wine; this is a superior value for about $20. But you can order off the à la carte menu, and after homemade gnocchi or a suculent veal chop with wild mushroom sauce, you can finish happily with a Sambuca and panna cotta.
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