The Chautauqua–Lake Erie Wine Trail

Chautauqua County is the country’s largest grape-growing area outside of California and is the Concord grape capital of America. Sweet grapes thrive here, so traditionally the area has been a supplier for juices and jams (Welch’s was based here until 1982). But in the 1960s, locals started experimenting with wines. Johnson Estate Winery, the first estate winery in New York, opened in 1961; today there are 21 wineries along the trail.

Cold winters make wine-quality grape-growing a challenge. Many wines are made from native labruscas (try a Concord wine for something unique) or French hybrids (Vidal ice wines are a good buy). But these days, wineries are also cultivating hardier European vinifera varieties, like Riesling.

Chautauqua Wine Trail. The 50-mile Chautauqua Wine Trail (www.chautauquawinetrail.org) roughly follows Route 20, from about 6 miles northeast of Fredonia to North East, Pennsylvania. Wineries generally feel more homegrown that those in Niagara-on-the-Lake or the Finger Lakes, which can be a refreshing change of pace. Tastings begin as early as 11 am and cost no more than $5.

Johnson Estate Winery ( 8419 W. Main Rd., Westfield 14787 800/374–6569 or 716/326–2191 www.johnsonwinery.com); Liberty Vineyards & Winery (2861 Rte. 20, Sheridan, 14135 716/672–4520 www.libertywinery.com); Noble Winery (8630 Hardscrabble Rd., Westfield 14787 716/326–9463 www.noblewinery.com), for the vineyard and Lake Erie views; Presque Isle (9440 W. Main Rd., North East, PA 16428 814/725–1314 www.piwine.com), in Pennsylvania, which sells home wine-making equipment; and Quincy Cellars (10606 Rte. 20, Ripley 14775 716/736–2021 www.quincycellars.com) for its restaurant, in a renovated century-old barn).