Fodor's Expert Review GastroArte

Aside from the Lower East Side restaurant wd-50, the so-called "molecular gastronomy" hasn't really taken off in New York. But leave it to a Spaniard, chef Jesus Nunez, to bring inventive and, at times, sensually perplexing cuisine to the Upper West Side, a neighborhood that was once a culinary graveyard. Imagine: an "egg" that is actually cauliflower, a deconstructed Spanish omelet that is served in a glass, and "edible dirt" that is actually a falafel. With such culinary trickery, it's a good thing there are plenty of strong cocktails on the menu (and a long list of Spanish wine).