Fantasies of old New York—Manhattan straight from the pages of Edith Wharton and Henry James, an era of genteel brick town houses and Tiffany lamps—spring to life at this discreet 20-room inn, the city's most romantic. There is no sign outside the 1830 town house, a hint of the somehow small-town qualities of Irving Place, a lightly trafficked street on the south side of Gramercy Park. One of the city's most famous tea salons, Lady Mendyl's, is run on the lobby level. Rooms have ornamental fireplaces, four-poster beds with embroidered linens, wood shutters, and glossy cherrywood floors. The room named after Madame Olenska (the lovelorn Wharton character) has a bay window with sitting nook—this is one of the most memorable spots in New York; reserve it for anniversaries. Pros: romantic; quaint; big rooms; excellent breakfast and tea service; Mario Batali's Casa Mono is downstairs; martini bar. Cons: dainty; rooms aren't flawless, with imperfections like older grouting.
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