Public's space is complex and sophisticated, with soaring ceilings and whitewashed brick walls, skylights, fireplaces, three dining areas, a vast bar, and even the occasional elegant bookcase. The menu flaunts its nonconformity. A terrine of rabbit confit has coils of flavor, gracefully incorporating foie gras and Tahitian vanilla, with quince-glazed grapes and mild radishes nearby for pungent contrast. Giant ravioli are stuffed with minced oxtail and snail meat, plated with pickled sautéed shiitake mushrooms and oven-dried tomatoes, all dribbled with smoked paprika oil. New Zealand venison loin is roasted perfectly and served with sweet-potato dauphinoise and sour-cherry compote. Cinnamon-and-orange-blossom rice pudding is not at all sweet, so that the scoop of pistachio-saffron ice cream can make a better contrast. You will not soon forget your meal at Public.
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