Per Se

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Per Se Review

The New York interpretation of what many consider America's finest restaurant, Napa Valley's French Laundry, Per Se is chef Thomas Keller's Broadway stage. Keller equally embraces French technique, a religious fervor for seasonality, and a witty playfulness that speaks to his confidence in the kitchen. The large dining room is understated and elegant, with touches of wood, towering florals, and—the best design touch of all—sweeping windows with views of Central Park. Keller's dishes are now world renowned, such as his tiny cones of tuna tartare topped with crème fraiche, and "oysters and pearls," delicate tiny mollusks suspended in a creamy custard with tapioca. Dessert service is a multicourse celebration of all things sweet, including a choice of 27 house-made chocolates and, of course, treats to take home. Waiters, who can, and may, recite the provenance of the tiniest turnip, are also some of the nicest, most disarming servers in town. There's also a new à la carte "salon" menu available in the front bar room, but let's face it: if you manage to snag a reservation, there's nothing else to do but submit to the $275 prix-fixe.