Thomas Keller, who gave the world butter-poached lobster and the Napa Valley's French Laundry restaurant, has given New York Per Se, which serves his witty, magical creations to well-heeled diners. Come with an open mind and open wallet, and discover his inventive combinations of flavors reduced to their essences. Waiters can, and may, recite the provenance of the tiniest turnip. For reservations, call exactly two months in advance of your hoped-for dining date.
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