Fodor's Expert Review Nishi

Chef David Chang's attempt at an Asian–Italian mash-up opened in 2016 to mixed reviews until he ditched the Asian aspect, and now this Italian-accented eatery with cozy leather booths and comfortable bar seats has come into its own. Standout starters include fried head-on shrimp and Wagyu crudo, but the real stars are the pasta dishes, especially the thick bucatini noodles smothered in a ceci e pepe sauce—Chang uses chickpea paste instead of cheese for a playful take on this classic Roman dish.