Fodor's Expert Review El Fidel

Set inside the 1920s Spanish Colonial Revival hotel of the same name (rooms are dated and bleak—don't stay here), this casual restaurant successfully lives up to its ambitious mission to serve creative, farm-to-market American and Italian fare in a region with few dining options beyond old-school New Mexican joints. The kitchen uses mostly local and organic ingredients to prepare such notable dishes as wild-caught albacore sashimi with spicy-lemon Sriracha sauce, and Mexican white shrimp over lemon-herb capellini with sundried-tomato puree. A worthy brunch is served on weekends. A coffee bar, added in 2013, serves breakfast, lunch, and delicious baked-from-scratch pastries.