With three restaurants (including Sofra in Cambridge and Sarma in Somerville), and a cookbook to her name, chef-owner Ana Sortun is one of the city's culinary treasures. So is Oleana, which specializes in zesty Eastern Mediterranean meze (small plates) plumped up with fresh-picked produce from her husband's nearby Siena Farms. Although the menu changes often, look for the hot, crispy fried mussels starter and the smoky eggplant puree beside tamarind-glazed beef. Lamb gets jacked up with Turkish spices, while duck gets accented with saffron and hazelnuts. In warm weather the back patio garden is a hidden utopia.