Fodor's Expert Review Grato

A sprawling cavern of wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and cocktails, this sibling to popular bûccan is a hit. Soaring ceilings, concrete floors, dark wood, and an open kitchen provide a buzzy backdrop to dishes of nicely charred pies (made with organic flour) and homemade pastas. Like chef-owner Clay Conley's other spots, the food here is hearty, unfussy yet sophisticated, and wonderfully balanced, from the curry cauliflower hummus to the hand-rolled macaroni with Florida rock shrimp and fennel. The popular weekend brunch (with a show-stopping breakfast pizza) fills up during the season, so make a reservation.