Leadville

Sitting in the mountains at 10,430 feet, Leadville is America's highest incorporated city. The 70 square blocks of Victorian architecture and adjacent mining district hint at its past as a rich silver-mining boomtown. In the history of Colorado mining, perhaps no town looms larger. Two of the state's most fascinating figures lived here: mining magnate Horace Tabor and his second wife, Elizabeth Doe McCourt (nicknamed Baby Doe), the central figures in John LaTouche's Pulitzer prize-winning opera The Ballad of Baby Doe.

The larger-than-life Tabor amassed a fortune of $12 million, much of which he spent building monuments to himself and his ambitious mistress "Baby Doe." His power peaked when his money helped him secure a U.S. Senate seat in 1883. He married Baby Doe, after divorcing his first wife, the faithful Augusta. The Tabors incurred the scorn of high society by throwing their money around in what was considered a vulgar fashion. In 1893 the repeal of the Sherman Act caused the price of silver to plummet, and Tabor was penniless. He died a pauper in 1899, admonishing Baby to "hang on to the Matchless," his most famous mine, which he was convinced would restore her fortunes. It never did. Baby Doe became a recluse, rarely venturing forth from her tiny unheated cabin beside the mine entrance. She froze to death in 1935.

Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding

Located 9 mi west of Leadville, Ski Cooper is one of those undiscovered boutique ski areas in the Rockies. It has 400 acres skiable via lift and another 2,400 acres of backcountry powder accessible by snowcat. The 26 groomed runs are perfect for beginning or intermediate skiers. Rte. 24. 719/486-3684 or 800/707-6114. www.skicooper.com. Late Nov.-early Apr., daily 9-4.

Life Lesson

Some of the best ski-ticket deals are reserved for ski students. Regardless of your level, you can always use pointers, and a lift ticket and rental gear are usually included in the price.

Facilities

1,200-foot vertical drop; 400 skiable acres; 30% beginner, 40% more difficult, 30% advanced; 5 lifts; 1 triple chair, 1 double chair, 3 surface lifts.

Lessons & Programs

The Ski Cooper Ski School (719/486-8114) covers the gamut for skiers and snowboarders. A "Never Ever" two-hour lesson with full lift ticket and rental gear is $60, or you can join a two-hour group lesson for $45. You can also book private lessons, race and telemark clinics, and lessons for your children, which can be extended as part of the all-day child-care programs. Lessons for handicapped skiers are available by appointment.

Ski Cooper offers a number of options for children, including their popular Panda Patrol for children ages 5 to 11. A full-day package (from 10 AM to 3 PM) includes a group ski lesson, equipment rental, lunch, and full mountain lift ticket for $75. The Panda Cub program caters to four-year-olds and provides a two-hour lesson, lift ticket, and rental package for $47.

Chicago Ridge Snowcat Tours (719/486-2277) are for expert backcountry skiers who want the off-piste adventure of scripting their signature across acres of untracked powder. Tickets are $275 but you'll get your fill of phat snow. The terrain has tree glades and open bowls. You must be over 18 (or be accompanied by an adult) and fit; the runs are up to 10,000 feet long and some vertical drops top 1,400 feet. Wide powder skis are available for rent for those who really want to float.

Lift Tickets

At $39 for a full-day lift ticket, you'll be hard-pressed to find cheaper powder. Vacationers should still shop around for discounted rates at King Soopers and Safeway stores.

Rentals

Rental packages (skis, boots, and poles) start at $15 per day, among the cheapest in the state. Snowboarding packages start at $25. Performance packages and backcountry ski gear rentals are also available and start at $25.