Steamboat's most intimate restaurant is in a building that once housed Harwig's Saddlery and Western Wear. There are two dining rooms, one that is more formal, the other casual. The classic French cuisine, with subtle Asian influences, is well crafted. Especially fine are the innovative duck dishes, the Alaskan king crab cakes, and rotating foie gras appetizers. Still, the menu takes a backseat to the admirable wine list: owner Jamie Jenny is a collector whose wine cellar contains more than 10,000 bottles, and you can order more than 40 wines by the glass.