Constructed in 1873 as a congregational church, the building has most of the original architecture in place, but today white tablecloths gleam in the afternoon light that pours through the stained-glass windows. The artfully plated modern French meals—grilled rib-eye steak with red-wine braising jus, celeriac pomme puree, and wilted spinach—are complex production numbers. The menu usually includes lamb, at least one fish entrée, and an interesting three-course tasting menu (C$55). The bistro-style and slightly less expensive Belfry ($$$), upstairs, has more down-to-earth but still-stylish food, such as ice wine–glazed quail with double-smoked bacon, boudin noir (blood sausage), and baby vegetables.
70 Brunswick St., Stratford, Ontario, N5A 6V6, Canada