Isla Contadora

The Pearl Archipelago's indigenous inhabitants undoubtedly had another name for Contadora, but its current name, which translates as "counting isle," was given to it nearly five centuries ago, when it held the offices of the Spanish crown's pearl-diving enterprise. The island was deserted for years after the pearl harvest diminished. Contadora gained its current status as a resort isle in the 1970s, when wealthy Panamanians began to buy coastal property here. The government then built the massive Hotel Contadora—now closed and undergoing some type of renovation, although nobody seems sure just what its future reincarnation will be—and the island developed a healthy weekend party scene. The island's most famous temporary resident was the deposed Shah of Iran on the heels of the Tehran embassy takeover in 1979, who spent some of his last days on the island. Contadora's star faded a bit in the 1980s and 90s, and it isn't quite the haunt of the glitterati it once was. The island has recently undergone a renaissance, with the construction of new accommodations and condominiums and can now be a fun, mid-range place for a vacation.

The island's tiny town center is just to the west of the airstrip, next to which sits its largest resort hotel. Nearly everything to the west is residential. A series of narrow roads winds through the forests that cover most of the island to the stately vacation homes scattered along its coastline, and an inland neighborhood that has some smaller houses. Interestingly, the mansions tend to be Panamanian vacation homes, whereas the more humble abodes tend to belong to foreigners, many of them permanent residents. In the center of the island are a soccer field, a pond, and a small church; to the north lies Playa Ejecutiva, and to the south Playa Cacique, two of the island's nicest beaches. Contadora is small enough to walk everywhere, but given the midday heat you may want to rent a golf cart or scooter to get around.

Isla Contadora's main attraction is its selection of beaches, and it has a baker's dozen to choose from, plus those of nearby islands. As idyllic as its beaches may be, there is actually a good bit more to do at Isla Contadora. As you explore the island, you may spot white-tailed deer, agoutis (large brown rodents), and any of dozens of bird species, especially the abundant pelicans. There is decent snorkeling around its many rocky points, though you'll find even better snorkeling at several nearby islands. Though the water is warm most of the year, high winds from December to April can cool it down significantly. Taking a boat trip to some of the surrounding islands is an excellent way to spend a morning or afternoon, and from June to December, you may see humpback whales on those trips. Captain Marco of Las Perlas Fishing Charters offers popular half-day trips to nearby islands for just $35 per person.