Yucatán and Campeche States Restaurants

Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetarian, and Mexican—at very reasonable prices. Reservations are advised for the pricier restaurants on weekends and in high season. Beach towns, such as Progreso, Río Lagartos, and Celestún, tend to serve fresh, simply prepared seafood. The regional cuisine of Campeche is renowned throughout Mexico. Specialties include fish and shellfish stews, cream soups, shrimp cocktail, squid and octopus, and panuchos (chubby rounds of fried cornmeal covered with refried beans and topped with onion and shredded turkey or chicken).

Mexicans generally eat lunch in the afternoon—certainly not before 2. If you want to eat at noon, call ahead to verify hours. In Mérida the locals make a real event of late dinners, especially in summer. Casual (but neat) dress is acceptable at all restaurants. Avoid wearing shorts or casual sandals in the more expensive places, and anywhere at all—especially in the evening—if you don't want to look like a tourist. Although food servers at most local restaurants are kind and hospitable, they don’t always show it like they do in the States. Be patient and realize that, for many, the language barrier may cause them to be more reserved but not necessarily unfriendly. It's common practice for restaurants to include gratuity and tax in the total bill, so double-check your bill before adding a tip.

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  • 1. El Chile Gordo

    $$$$

    On the inland side of the barrier island, a charming little house painted sky-blue and cherry-red contains El Cuyo's best restaurant. Here, Oscar Flores, who presides in the kitchen, and his English wife, Cathy Sissens, lead guests—never more than 20 on any night—on a nine-course journey through Mexico's culinary regions, with Cathy sharing some background on each mole, ceviche, or taco that's served. The owners can accommodate most dietary restrictions; just let them know when you make reservations, which are required. 

    Calle Laguna 220, Yucatán, 97707, Mexico
    999-169–9714

    Known For

    • Beautiful, intimate setting
    • Excellent Mexican dishes
    • Warm and welcoming hosts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.–Tues., Reservations essential
  • 2. El Príncipe Tutul-Xiu

    $

    Shaded by a giant palapa roof, this open-air restaurant is an inviting spot for lunch or an early dinner (it closes at 7 pm). Though you'll find the same Yucatecan dishes (pollo pibil, sopa de lima) here as elsewhere, the preparation is excellent. Best of all is the poc chuc—little bites of pork marinated in sour orange, garlic, and chiles and grilled over charcoal. There is also a Mérida location if you don't want to make the trip to the original one. 

    Calle 29 191, Ticul, Yucatán, 97863, Mexico
    997-978–4257

    Known For

    • Tasty poc chuc
    • Huge portions at reasonable prices
    • Authentic, local atmosphere
  • 3. Hacienda Teya

    $$

    A henequen plantation in the 17th century, this beautiful hacienda just outside Mérida serves some of the best regional food around, primarily attracting well-to-do Meridanos for a leisurely lunch (let that be your guide on what to wear). Start with sopa de lima, then move on to standout mains like poc chuc (slices of pork in a sour-orange sauce) or cochinita pibil—both served with homemade tortillas—perhaps followed by dessert, which comes with a complimentary digestif. After your meal, stroll through the gardens where peacocks roam. If you’d like to spend the night, the hacienda has six handsome suites, but you'll need to book ahead for weekends and holidays. There are also two locations of Hacienda Teya in the heart of Mérida: one at the Paseo 60 mall and the other on Calle 60, across from Parque Santa Lucia.

    Carretera 180, Mérida, Yucatán, 97370, Mexico
    999-988–0800

    Known For

    • Largest wine selection in town
    • Country setting with lovely gardens
    • Elegant atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 4. Restaurante Amaro

    $$

    The patio of this historic home glows with candlelight in the evening, but during the day, things feel a lot more casual. Although the menu has a few fish or meat dishes (cochinita pibil, say, or butterfly chicken breast in a cream sauce), the emphasis is on vegetarian dishes such as chaya soup (made from a green plant similar to spinach), stuffed mushrooms, spinach lasagna, and avocado pizza. Prices are reasonable, and service is excellent. Expect live music in the open-air courtyard daily between 8:30 pm and midnight.

    Calle 59 507, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-928–2451

    Known For

    • Upscale Yucatecan cuisine
    • Healthful juices
    • Romantic atmosphere
  • 5. Apoala

    $$

    Apoala is one of the best choices for Mexican food on the lively restaurant-lined Parque Santa Lucia. The menu includes both Oaxacan and Yucatecan dishes—moles and beef dishes from the former, ceviches and cochinita pibil from the latter. The presentation is elevated without being fussy.

    Calle 60 471, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-923–1979

    Known For

    • Oaxacan and Yucatecan dishes
    • Outdoor seating
    • Elevated approach to Mexican cuisine
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  • 6. Casa Chica

    $

    Though it serves good basic pastas, salads, and burgers, as well as some Mexican bar-food favorites, this restaurant's popularity is primarily due to its delicious cocktails, aguas frescas, and lively atmosphere. You can dine outside, enjoying the activity on Paseo Montejo, or inside, where the people-watching is just as interesting.

    Paseo Montejo 498B, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Lively atmosphere
    • Outdoor seating on Paseo de Montejo
    • Good value
  • 7. Cenaduría Portales de San Francisco

    $

    Campechano families come here to enjoy a light supper, perhaps a delicious sandwich claveteado of honey-and-clove-spiked ham, along with a typical drink like agua de chaya, a mixture of pineapple water and chaya (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach). The dining area is a wide colonial veranda with marble flooring and tables decked out in plastic tablecloths. No alcohol is served, and you simply mark your choices on the paper menu (note that for tacos, "m" means maíz, or corn; for tortillas, "h" stands for harina, or flour). On weekends, try the tamal torteado, a tamale with beans, tomato sauce, turkey, and pork wrapped in banana leaves—although not listed on the menu, it's available on request. 

    Calle 10 86, Campeche City, Campeche, 24040, Mexico
    981-811–1491

    Known For

    • Alfresco dining on the picturesque plaza de San Francisco
    • Stylish veranda
    • Tamales wrapped in banana leaves

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
  • 8. El Atrio del Mayab

    $

    This elegant colonial house on the south side of the main square specializes in hearty Yucatecan cuisine, with such menu highlights as pollo X'catik (chicken baked in butter cream) and lomitos de Valladolid (cubed pork loin in a tomato-chile sauce). If you're not feeling quite so adventurous, you can choose from mar y tierra (meaning, basically, surf and turf) options. The small front dining room is stylish, but we recommend snagging a table in the leafy back courtyard—it's perfect for lunch on a hot afternoon. El Atrio keeps long hours, opening at 7 am and going strong until 11:30 pm.

    Calle 41 204A, Valladolid, Yucatán, 97780, Mexico
    985-856–2394

    Known For

    • Stylish setting and lush courtyard
    • Local flavors
    • Stays open late
  • 9. K'u'uk

    $$$$

    K’u’uk, which means "sprout" in Mayan, is chic in every sense of the word, from the suave waiters to the molecular gastronomy dining experience in a historic mansion facing the Monumento a la Patria on Paseo de Montejo. The presentation is artistic—picture dollops of baby pumpkin dusted with goat cheese the texture of powdered snow, potatoes slices as thin as tissue paper, and desserts sprinkled with dehydrated berries or honey-soaked seeds. Many of the Yucatecan options are prepared in a custom-built pibil oven, allowing for a modernized way to impart a traditional smoky flavor. Plan to stay awhile, since dining takes between two and three hours.

    Av. Rómulo Rozo 488, Mérida, Yucatán, 97100, Mexico
    999-944–3377

    Known For

    • Pibil-style (Maya oven) cooking
    • Leisurely—some say “slow”—dining experience
    • Eight-course tasting menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
  • 10. La María Cocina Peninsular

    $$

    Calle 8, which runs along the north side of the historic center and roughly follows the route of the old sea wall, is now a bit of a restaurant row, home to this and other eateries. Seafood is the specialty here, though it also has a number of signature cocktails, like the Pregonero, made with a chile liquor, tamarind, and pineapple.

    Calle 8 173, Campeche City, Campeche, 24000, Mexico
    999-445–7635

    Known For

    • Ceviche and grilled fish
    • Signature cocktails
    • Historic center location
  • 11. La Negrita Cantina

    $

    This cantina at the corner of Calles 62 and 49 is popular with locals, expats, and visitors thanks to its large courtyard and likewise large cocktails. You'll be offered free bar snacks as long as you keep ordering drinks, though it's worth trying some of the delicious (if basic) ceviches, enchiladas, and tacos, too. Live bands play most evenings. 

    Calle 62 415, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-121–0411

    Known For

    • Live music
    • Mexican bar snacks
    • Oversized cocktails
  • 12. La Poderosa

    $

    Residents of Mérida have strong opinions on who makes the best salbutes and panuchos, two signature Yucatecan dishes, and La Poderosa is at the top of many lists. All the seats at this restaurant in the southern part of Centro—near San Sebastian's square and market—are outdoors, and it's an especially lovely spot on warm evenings. Its evening hours also make it stand out from some other popular casual eateries, which are often open for breakfast and lunch only. A meal of three or four empanadas, panuchos, or salbutes, accompanied by a soda, will only set you back about $5. Note: There are several restaurants in Mérida named La Poderosa. The one you want is the one in San Sebastian.

    Calle 70 568D, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Outdoor seating
    • Excellent panuchos and salbutes
    • Cheap eats
  • 13. Los Almendros

    $$

    This vintage Yucatecan restaurant with high colonial ceilings and an elegant atmosphere is a longtime local favorite. The combinado yucateco (Yucatecan combination plate) is a great way to try different dishes like cochinita pibil, longaniza asada (grilled pork sausages), escabeche de Valladolid (turkey with chiles, onions, and seasonings in an acidic sauce), and poc chuc (slices of pork in a sour-orange sauce). In fact, Los Almendros invented some dishes that have become regional classics—including the cheese soup, which is also spectacular. A live trio performs daily from 2 to 5 pm.

    Calle 50A 493, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-928–5459

    Known For

    • Classic Yucatecan dishes
    • Spectacular cheese soup
    • Reasonable prices
  • 14. Luz de Luna

    $

    Inside a colonial-era building, this small (just five tables) family-run restaurant is decorated with Mexican crafts and has an enormous menu of familiar favorites like burritos and fajitas. Grilled fish and steak are served with rice and shredded lettuce, as are the rolled tacos and enchiladas topped with red or green chile sauce. If you’re an early riser, stop by for French toast or a breakfast crêpe.

    Calle 59 6, Campeche City, Campeche, 24000, Mexico
    981-100–8556

    Known For

    • Traditional Mexican favorites
    • Hearty breakfasts
    • Good selection of coffees (but no alcohol)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 15. Marganzo

    $$

    Traditional Yucatecan dishes—like panuchos (fried masa cakes stuffed with beans and piled high with shredded meat, lettuce, sour onions, and other toppings) or chile mestizo (poblano pepper stuffed with shredded meat)—are the specialties here. Although waitresses dressed in colorful regional-style skirts will explain the dishes, if you're unsure what to order ask to see the album containing photos of top dishes with multilingual captions. Lunches and dinners are finished off with a complimentary tamarind margarita, and a guitar trio performs some evenings. This is also a great place for breakfast. You can try plain agua de chaya here—in other restaurants, it's often sweetened with pineapple.

    Calle 8 267, Campeche City, Campeche, 24000, Mexico
    981-811–3898

    Known For

    • Colorful local flavor
    • Attentive service
    • Stylish colonial decor
  • 16. Museo de la Gastronomía Yucateca

    $$

    The menu here is as an encyclopedic take on Yucatecan cuisine, with everything from salbutes to start to manjar blanco (a milk-based delicacy) for dessert. Before sitting down to eat in the courtyard or one of the rooms that open onto it, explore the modest displays on regional food in the colonial-style building and Maya-style houses in the garden. There are also cooking demonstrations, including those using the traditional method for cooking cochinita pibil, buried in a pit in the ground.

    Calle 62 466, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-518–1645

    Known For

    • Traditional Yucatecan dishes
    • An elegant setting in a colonial-style building
    • Cooking demonstrations
  • 17. Pancho Maiz

    $

    Don't let the bare walls and basic furniture fool you—this restaurant, a few blocks east of Parque Mejorada, offers one of Mérida's best dining experiences. Chefs Xóchitl Valdés and Selena Cárdenas have impressed gourmets with their celebration of corn, the basis of many of the dishes served here. Before you leave, stop in at the adjacent store, which sells local honey and honey products, from candies to shampoo. 

    Calle 59 437A, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-750–3589

    Known For

    • Oaxacan favorites
    • Freshest and best ingredients
    • Excellent value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 18. Pancho's

    $$$ | Centro | Mexican

    In the evening this patio restaurant is bathed in candlelight and the glow from tiny white lights decorating the tropical shrubs. Much of the menu, as well as the decor, is geared toward tourists—you can even buy a Pancho's T-shirt on your way out. Although you won't find authentic Yucatecan dishes at this lively spot, the tasty tacos, fajitas, burritos, and other dishes will be pleasantly recognizable to those familiar with Mexican food served north of the border. Waiters—dressed in white muslin shirts and pants of the Revolution era—recommend the shrimp flambéed in tequila, and the tequila in general. Happy hour is weekdays from 6 to 8 pm.

    Calle 59 No. 509, between Calles 60 and 62, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-923–0942

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch.
  • 19. Restaurante Kinich

    $

    At the town’s most comfortable eatery, tables draped in white linen sit under a wide palapa that's surrounded by plants and with a burbling fountain. In a small hut in the back, the cooks make tortillas by hand, and menu highlights include locally made longaniza (a tasty grilled pork sausage) and excellent sopa de lima. A small shop sells carefully selected and cleverly displayed local folk art.

    Calle 27 299, Izamal, Yucatán, 97540, Mexico
    999-900–2316

    Known For

    • Longaniza (a local sausage)
    • Folk art
    • Traditional atmosphere
  • 20. Restaurante Muul

    $

    Residents of Izamal have strong opinions on which restaurants make the best panuchos, salbutes, papadzules, and other local specialities, but Restaurante Muul is on many short lists. The atmosphere is no-frills, though the location is convenient, right on the main plaza just steps from the ex-convent.

    Calle 28 300, Izamal, Yucatán, 97540, Mexico
    988-967–8006

    Known For

    • Location on the main plaza
    • Local specialties
    • Good value

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